Squeaky Brakes


I got new brakes on my car but now they are starting to squeak when I come to a stop. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what did you do?
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D from michigan

Answers:

Squeaky Brakes

Take it right back to the mechanic for adjustment!
They should fix it for free.
Peach (08/26/2005)

By Peachhead

Squeaky Brakes

I heard something like this on a radio call in show the other day and my husband, who is a mechanic, also said it isn't' unusual for new brakes to squeal. It has something to do with the material they use to make the replacement pads. Talk to your mechanic for sure, but I don't think it's an unusual happening. (08/26/2005)

By Mary

Squeaky Brakes

It could just be brake dust. It could be the shape of the brakes conforming to the shape of the drum/whatever. You could try "burnishing" the brakes as follows:
Find a place somewhere isolated (highway, perhaps) to get up to at least 50 mph. Now that you are at 50, step hard on the brakes until you stop. Do this five times over and the squeakage should be better.

My mechanic told me to do this after my new brakes began to squeak. He also told me to NOT do this when my kids were in the car! LOL!

Good luck. (08/26/2005)

By smcarney

Squeaky Brakes

Use carbon metallic pads. You get a lube to put on the outside of pad for them not to squeak. (03/29/2006)

By Ryan

Squeaky Brakes

Pressure wash your wheels to remove the brake dust from the calipers might work. From my experience the Squeak happens in new or old pads when the dust accumulates or poor material makes the friction surface shiny gloss. Sanding the pads to make them rough again might also work. (09/20/2006)

By kabatza

Squeaky Brakes

There's a few things that can cause squeaky brakes and several things to do and not do to get the best from your stock brakes.

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DON'T: lube or grease any braking surfaces or use a pressure washer to clean the crud from brakes because this crud can and will be forced into seals and can result in failure and greater problems and expense in the future.
DO: Carefully put your car on axle stands, remove wheels and dismantle brakes. Thoroughly clean and check all parts and on reassembly, grease slide pins well so caliper is free to move. Apply copper grease to back of brake pad to stop any high frequency vibration resulting in squeal and bleed the entire brake lines. Be prepared to use a minimum of 500ml on a standard car. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and moisture is compressible due to gas molecules. Hydraulic fluid is not. Bleeding will replace contaminated fluid and relieve the spongy feeling on tired brakes. Dot 4 or 5 is best as this has the greatest resistance to moisture absorption. Rotors should be replaced if they are poorly worn or badly grooved. Both sides should be done simultaneously.
Finally, once you are familiar with procedures and the theory behind hydraulic disc brakes, read your specific manual carefully. It is also advisable to torque load all brake fasteners but the majority of mechanics will not do this to save time and effort.
IF YOUR GOING TO DO IT, DO IT ONCE AND DO IT RIGHT! (02/07/2007)

By freebird

Squeaky Brakes

If you had low end breaks put in the pad on the new breaks might be harder (made of a cheaper material). This will cause more friction with the rotor. If they are working, I would put up this noise for a little while. It will get better as your new pads get worn in. I have had the same problem with the cheaper pads I put on my car. I would also suggest slamming on your breaks at bout 30 to 40 mph to help speed up the process. This will not hurt your car at all, but try to do it in a safe area. (08/11/2007)

By Frieds

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