Planting Bulbs

Winterizing Garden - Planting Fall Bulbs

Professional horticulturalist Mitch Baker shows how to winterize your garden and get bulbs planted now for spring. Be sure to watch the related videos for more winter gardening tips and tricks.

Extending the Life of Your Tulip Bulbs

More than a few gardeners have been disappointed by "one-year wonder" tulips. These spring bloomers are perennials, but they don't always act like it-producing spectacular flowers the first year, only to peter out or disappear altogether the second. Here are a few tips to help you extend the life of your tulips and keep them performing for as many years as possible.

• When buying tulips bulbs, sometimes size can be a factor. Not all big tulip bulbs will be good repeat performers, but bigger bulbs have a better chance of coming through the first winter with a good supply of reserves for flowering. Look for firm, healthy bulbs that have at a least a 4 inch (11 cm) circumference. Most packaged tulip bulbs sold in bulk and online will indicate the size of the bulbs you are buying.

• Look for "species" or "botanical" tulips rather than the big hybrid varieties. These tulips are essentially the same as (or at least close to) the tulip species found in the wild. Although somewhat shorter in height, their foliage and flowers are equally as spectacular. They are true perennials and much easier to naturalize than their "temporary" hybridized counterparts. If you live in an area with warm winters, choose cultivars which are proven to do well in warmer climates.

• Plant them in full sun and fast-draining soil. Although often associated with the Netherlands, tulips are actually native to cool mountainous regions where the sun's rays are less filtered by the atmosphere and falling rains drain away quickly. If you have heavy soil, amend it with lots of organic matter to improve drainage. Slopes and rock gardens make good sites-the sunnier the better.

• Don't plant your tulips too late. Bulbs need a long period of cold temperatures to flower. It's also important to get them into the ground before it freezes to give them enough time to develop a good root system. A good rule of thumb is to get them into the ground right after the first killing frost.

• Plant your tulip bulbs deep enough-usually at least 6 to 8 inches from the top of the hole to the bottom of the bulb. Cover the planting with several inches of mulch in case of a lack of snow cover. Damage to shallow planted bulbs due to a lack of winter cover is one of the most common reasons tulips fail to flower.

• Fertilize them or they will run out of "gas". Fertilize annually in the fall with a fertilizer formulated especially for bulbs, or a low-nitrogen fertilizer (like well-rotted cow manure). If you forget to fertilize in the fall, you can use a fast-release, high-nitrogen fertilizer in the spring when the shoots first appear.  If plants are close to flowering though, you are better off skipping it altogether. Don't fertilize other plants growing in the same beds until your tulips have flowered and the foliage has died back.

• Tulip bulbs are native to regions where winters are cold, springs are long and cool, and summers are warm and dry. To mimic their native conditions, bulbs need a long period of cold dormancy (vernalization) to trigger flowering. Gardeners in warmer zones (Zone 5 or higher), should avoid planting bulbs near structures that may reflect heat and shorten the chilling period (e.g. concrete or asphalt), or plant pre-chilled bulbs.

• Allow your tulips' leaves to die back naturally before cutting them down. The leaves are the plants' food-producing solar panels, and they need as much time as possible to store food for next year's growth. Remove spent flower heads as soon as they start to fade. This will prevent the plant from wasting energy on trying to produce seeds.

By Ellen Brown

Marking Where Bulbs are Planted

With Spring finally here, it's time to get outside and plant some flowers, vegetables and bulbs. I usually forget what I have planted where. Now I just find a nice sized rock and with a permanent marker I write the name on the rock. Now I don't have to rely on my memory.

Also, when I use seed from packages, I put the empty package in a photo album and then I can see when to water, feed and all I need to know about the item I have planted. Sure has helped me a lot. Happy gardening!

By dwedenoja from new creek, wv

Growing Summer Blooming Bulbs

About the time roses and other perennials take a respite from mid-summer heat, summer bulbs step into the scene with an explosion of color. That's because unlike their spring-blooming cousins, summer bulbs are programed to thrive when temperatures rise. Here's what you need to get started growing them.

Classes of Summer Bulbs: Tender and Hardy

Summer bulbs are categorized by their ability to withstand cold temperatures and are generally classified as either hardy or tender. Hardy summer bulbs consist of a small group of bulbs that can withstand cold climates. Except for in the most northern climates, these bulbs can be planted and left in the ground for blooms year after year.

Tender bulbs are made up of a group of tropical and subtropical bulbs. None can withstand very cold temperatures, so depending on the severity of your winters, they will either need heavy protection, or you will need to dig them up at the end of each growing season and store them indoors. In the warmest climates (zones 9-11) tender bulbs can be grown as perennials. In most other climates they are either treated as annuals, or lifted in the fall and stored over winter.

The tender bulbs encompass a large group of plants, some of which are hardier than others. It's important to note that depending on where you garden, there may be a good deal of crossover between the classifications. A bulb considered tender in one growing zone may be considered hardy in another.

Planting Summer Bulbs

Since most of the bulbs that bloom in the summer are sensitive to frost, it's best to wait until close to tomato-planting time (after your average last spring frost date) to plant bulbs outdoors. If you want to get a jump on the season, you can pot them up indoors 4 to 6 weeks ahead of the last frost and transplant them outdoors when the weather warms.

The general rule for planting bulbs is to plant them at a depth 3 to 4 times the height of the bulb. This will help to protect the bulbs against frost and (sometimes) foraging animals. Deeper planting also encourages stronger stems. A tubular bulb planter or narrow trowel is the best tool for the job. Simply stab the soil (or twist the planter), lift out the dirt, and place the bulb (pointed side up) in the bottom of the hole. Fill half of the hole with dirt, water lightly to settle the soil, and fill in the remainder of the hole. Firm the soil gently with your hands and water again.

Watering and Fertilization

From active growth (when shoots emerge) through flowering and fading foliage, summer bulbs should be given an ample supply of food and water. The soil in container-grown bulbs loses moisture and nutrients quickly due to drainage. Prepare to water them on an almost daily basis, along with a weekly shot of half-strength liquid fertilizer. Bulbs planted in the garden should be given a one-time slow-release organic fertilizer as soon as the shoots emerge from the soil. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not wet, to avoid problems with rot.

Lifting and Over-Wintering

Timing: The timing for bringing the bulbs in varies depending on individual species. Cannas and dahlias, for example, will tolerate some cold. Leave them in the garden until after the first frost. Tender species like tuberous begonias that cannot tolerate frost should be removed from the garden as soon as nighttime temperatures start dropping below 40 degrees F.

Markers: If the plant's foliage dies back before it is time to lift the bulbs it can be difficult to remember where you planted them. An easy way to remedy this is to surround your bulbs with a small piece of chicken wire at the time of planting. The wire will be easily hidden by growing foliage and reappear again as soon as it dies back.

Lifting: Use a trowel or spading fork to carefully lift your bulbs out of the soil. Trim back dead foliage to within 1/2 inch of the bulb and remove excess soil from around their roots with your fingers (or a gentle garden hose). Spread bulbs out on a newspaper in a shady spot to dry.

Storage: Once dry, loosely pack the bulbs in paper or mesh bags each labeled according to variety. Toss in a handful of slightly dampened peat moss to help prevent them from drying out. Store the bags in a cool, dark place for the winter, like a basement or garage. Temperatures between 45 and 55 degrees F degrees are ideal. Check the bags occasionally throughout the winter, adding moisture if necessary, and discarding any bulbs that show signs of shriveling or decay.

By Ellen Brown

Tips and Techniques for Planting Bulbs

Fall is the season for planting spring-blooming bulbs. The idea of planting dozens of bulbs can seem like an intimidating task - especially to new gardeners. Here are some tips and techniques to help make the job easier.

Buying Bulbs

• Whenever possible, buy loose bulbs locally. The selection may be smaller than shopping by catalog, but it gives you the advantage of being able to visually inspect each bulb and reject those showing any signs of mold or rot.

• Look for local suppliers that sell bulbs at the appropriate planting time, not months before. If you shop from a mail-order supplier, make sure they ship bulbs to you at the proper planting time (not earlier). Ask them if they offer a guarantee or refund policy.

• Shop early. Both local retailers and mail order suppliers offer the best selections early in the season.

• Buy the biggest, heaviest bulbs you can afford. They generally produce the best flowers, and are better candidates for producing offsets to increase your stock.

Selecting A Site

• Most spring-flowering bulbs grow best in full sun. This doesn't mean, however, that they won't grow well if planted under deciduous trees. Their active growing season occurs before most trees leaf out, so they will still receive plenty of sunshine in the spring.

• Bulbs need loose, humus-rich soil to grow roots and shoots. A site with well-drained soil is necessary, as most bulbs will easily succumb to rot if forced to stand in water for any length of time. Raised beds make for easy planting and are a great way to compensate for poor drainage or compacted soils. A pH of 6.0 to 7.0 is best, but many will tolerate slightly more acidic soils.

Planting Times

• Most hardy, spring-flowering bulbs need to spend a certain number of hours at colder temperatures in order to bloom. In zones with mild winters, bulbs sold for planting in early winter (like tulips) have usually been given a cold treatment before being sold.

  Approximate planting times:

  • September in Zones 2-3
  • September to early October in Zones 4-5
  • October to early November in Zones 6-7
  • November to early December in Zone 9

• Spring-flowering bulbs can be planted in the late fall, provided they have enough time to establish roots before the ground freezes. If you plant them late, expect a blooming to be delayed by several weeks in the spring. The plants may also not reach their full height potential. If they fail to bloom at all, the roots probably didn't have time to sufficiently develop.

Planting Techniques

• In general, bulbs should be planted at a depth three to four times the height of the bulb. This protects the bulbs against frost, foraging animals, and possible physical damage from hoeing.

• Bulb planters come in different shapes and sizes, from very small tools called dibbers, to hand-held planters, and long-handled planters in which you use your feet as leverage for pushing into the soil. No matter what tool you use, the planting steps are basically the same. Push the tool into the soil. Stop at the desired depth. Twist the planter and lift out the soil. Place the bulb in the bottom of the hole. Fill the hole with dirt from the planter. Repeat.

• Using planters to dig individual holes works well when planting a small number of bulbs or filling in spaces between perennial shrubs and flowers. For mass plantings, use a garden shovel or spade to clear away all of the turf and create one large planting bed.

Thwarting Pests

• Many rodents, especially squirrels, love to dig up and dine on certain types of bulbs. Laying wire mesh (e.g. chicken fence) over the soil surface above your bulbs is a great way to prevent squirrels from digging them up. The bulbs will still be able to shoot through the mesh, but animals won't be able to get to the bulbs. Another method is to enclose entire beds with a wire cage.

• An alternative to fighting with animal pests is to plant the types of bulbs they don't like to eat. Daffodil bulbs are poisonous, and therefore avoided by even the hungriest of animals. Squills and snowdrops are also typically left alone.

Popular Spring Flowering Bulbs

• Checkered Lily, Guinea-Hen Flower - Fritillaria meleagris
• Common Grape Hyacinth - Muscari botryoides
• Common Hyacinth - Hyacinthus orientalis
• Common Snowdrop - Galanthus nivalis
• Crocus - Crocus species
• Daffodil, Narcissus, Jonquil - Narcissus species
• Dutch Hybrid Iris - Iris hybrids
• Giant Flowering Onion - Allium giganteum
• Glory-of-the-Snow - Chionodoxa luciliae
• Grecian Windflower, Green Anemone - Anemone blanda
• Siberian Squill - Scilla siberica
• Tulip - Tulipa species
• Winter Aconite - Eranthis hyemalis

By Ellen Brown

How To Naturalize Bulbs

We've all seen the pictures. Masses of tulips or hyacinths growing like wildflowers among trees or in grassy meadow, looking like they've been there since the beginning of time. These bulbs have been naturalized. Achieving this look isn't hard, as long as you keep a few basic principles in mind.

You Need the Right Site

To achieve the "wildflower effect" naturalized bulbs are usually set in a woodland or grassland environment. For gardeners limited by space, a cluster of bulbs planted in uncut grass around the base of a tree, or a small patch left wild in the corner of the garden can create a striking effect.

• Woodland sites: Make sure it allows enough sun for the bulbs to grow and flower.

• Grassland sites: For the best effect, grass has been left to grow wild (not manicured).

You Need the Right Bulbs

Mixing multiple types of bulbs or planting a single species will give you radically different looks, so search online and in gardening books to get ideas. Also keep in mind that if you choose spring-flowering bulbs, you'll need to wait for the flowers to go to seed and the foliage to fade (up to 6 weeks) before cutting the grass. This is so that the bulbs have time to produce and store food for next year's color. If you choose fall-blooming bulbs, you'll need to stop cutting grass in late summer/early fall to allow the shoots ample time to grow and bloom.

Ideally, the bulbs you choose should:

• Grow tall enough to be seen, but not so tall that they appear unnatural.

• Be vigorous enough to compete for nutrients with surrounding turf and (if necessary) hardy enough to stand up to a harsh winters.

• Maintenance-free (don't choose bulbs that require staking, deadheading, etc.). If you need to fertilize bulbs, do it in the early spring. Just make sure you don't use a "weed and feed" mixture or you may end up killing the bulbs.

Achieving the "Natural Effect"

Use a spade for mass planting instead of digging hundreds of individual holes. Start by cutting the grass, Then peel back the sod and remove the soil to the required depth (approx. 2 inches for small bulbs and 4 inches for larger bulbs). After loosening the surface of the exposed soil, place the bulbs where you want them and replace the sod. Water the area thoroughly.

Wildflowers don't grow in perfectly spaced rows, and neither should naturalized bulbs. Dropping handfuls of bulbs and planting them wherever they land will help create a more natural look.

By Ellen Brown

How To Plant Bulbs

Planting bulbs is relatively straightforward. Dig a hole, drop in a bulb, and cover it with dirt. Well, at least it's almost that easy. To get them off to a good start, follow these bulb-planting tips:

Using the Right Tools

The Trowel: Easily the most popular all around tool with gardeners, a trowel is also a great tool for planting bulbs, especially if you have several types of different bulbs that require different planting depths. Choose a trowel that has depth measurements marked down the length of the blade.

The Bulb Planter: This cylindrical hand-held tool is designed specifically for planting bulbs. Simply push it into the ground and pop out a soil core. Bulb planters come in handy if you're doing a large planting, but they are difficult to use in compacted soils. Most have depth measurements stamped on the side of the cylinder.

The Dibber (also called the dibble): The beauty of the dibber lies in its simplicity. Shaped like a carrot, it's only job is to poke holes in the dirt. A dibber is a great choice for planting small bulbs but can be difficult to use in compacted soils.

When to Plant

Ideally, bulbs should be planted as soon as possible after you purchase them, although some bulbs (Tulips, Crocus, and Narcissus) can be stored in a cool, dry place for a time before planting. In general, planting times are based on bloom times. Spring-blooming bulbs require a period of cold dormancy to bloom and must be planted in the fall. Many summer and fall blooming bulbs can survive cold temperatures and need to be planted in the spring.

Spring and Summer Blooming Bulbs to Plant in the Autumn

• Crocus (Crocus)
• Crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis)
• Daffodil (Narcissus)
• Glory-of-the-Snow (Chionodoxa)
• Grape hyacinth (Muscari)
• Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)
• Lily (Lilium)
• Ornamental onion (Allium)
• Siberian squill (Scilla siberica)
• Snowdrop (Galanthus)
• Tulip (Tulipa)
• Windflower (Anemone blanda)

Summer Blooming Bulbs to Plant in the Spring

• Caladium (Caladium bicolor)
• Calla (Zantedeschia)
• Canna (Canna xgeneralis)
• Crocosmia Crocosmia)
• Dahlia (Dahlia)
• Elephant's ear (Alocasia and Colocasia)
• Lily-of-the-Nile (Agapanthus)
• Tiger flower (Tigridia pavonia)
• Tuberose begonia (Begonia xtuberhydrida)

How Deep to Plant

The depth of the hole will vary according to the type of bulb your are planting, so check with your vendor for exact instructions. Generally, larger bulbs (Tulips, Narcissus, and Hyacinth) are planted to a depth of two or three times their height. In sandy soils, they can be planted slightly deeper than the recommended depth. In heavy soils, they can be planted slightly closer to the surface. Small bulbs are generally planted at a depth equal to their own height.

5 Steps to Planting

1. Prepare the Soil: Whether you're planting bulbs in containers or in beds, most prefer well draining soil. If necessary, amend heavy soils with sand or compost, and toss in a handful of bone meal before planting. Ideally, soil should be prepared at least one week out from planting.
2. Dig the Hole: Arrange your bulbs on top of the prepared soil to mark the each spot where you want a dig hole. The depth of the hole will depend on the bulb, but it should be at least twice its diameter. The bottom of the hole should be flat and roomy enough so that the bulb does not touch either side of the hole. Try to keep the sides of the hole vertical. Avoid digging your hole in the shape of an ice cream cone.
3. Place the bulb in the hole: Set the bulb down into the bottom of the hole so it's facing right side up (roots on bottom). Twist it gently so the basil plate of the bulb makes contact with the soil.
4. Replace the Soil: Cover the hole with dirt and press it down gently.
5. Mark the spot: Bulbs leave no above-ground evidence of their planting location, so mark the area with a plant label.

Protecting Your Bulbs from Animals

Cover the ground over your bulbs with chicken wire or hardware cloth after planting. (Use bricks to secure). Make sure to removed the wire after the ground is frozen, or in early spring when stems start to peek through the ground. Sprinkling coarse gravel or non-clumping kitty litter into the planting can also help deter rodents from digging. Avoid using straw to mulch around your bulbs. It's an attractive winter bedding that only encourages rodent activity near your bulbs.

By Ellen Brown

Dig Bulbs for Forcing

rator for about a month. Then plant them in pots and let them grow. Then they will be ready to plant for flowers at Christmas time.

By Margaret