Starting a Compost Pile

3 Month Plan for Starting a Compost Pile From the Bottom Up

A layering method first devised by Sir Albert Howard in 1931 while he was doing studies in India.

From the bottom up:

- A layer of brush (this allows room for air to circulate under the pile and gives it good drainage)
- 6 inches of green matter (grass clippings, green leaves, unseeded weeds)
- 2 inch layer of manure
- a sprinkle of limestone, top soil, and phosphate rock (the soil adds the microbes needed for decomposition)

Roughly repeat these layers until the pile reaches a maximum 5 foot height. You can add vegetable parings, coffee grounds, egg shells, sea shells, corn husks, straw, or rotted hay.

As the pile slumps turn the outside edges to the center. Turning the pile moves the less decomposed matter to the center. It will take about 3 months for the pile to turn into compost.

When the pile is mostly decomposed, start a new one and use the compost to add to your garden soil.

A Gardener's Guide to Composting

Composting recycles organic matter into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. Although the finished product is a complex mixture of organic matter, bacteria and enzymes, the process of making compost isn't complex at all. It's just a great way to improve your soil while doing something useful with your kitchen and yard waste.

"Cold" and "Hot" Compost Piles

Double or Triple Heap composting: The most popular way to compost is called Double (or Triple) Heap Composting. Also referred to as "cold" composting, it is a slow but practical method to produce compost and requires little effort on your part. Start by building one compost heap to which you gradually add kitchen scraps, weeds that haven't gone to seed, tree trimmings, and garden wastes until the heap stands 3 feet high. This may take several weeks. Each time you add new materials to the heap, turn it to mix and moisten the existing materials. When the first pile reaches 3 feet high, start a new one right next to it. Each time you add materials to this pile, cover it with a shovelful or two of almost-finished compost from the first heap. This way you are constantly adding your own custom-grown "activator" to your compost. If you want to, add a third pile into the mix so you have three piles in various stages of progress. When you need compost for your garden, take the finished product from your oldest heap.

Quick fixes for "cold" compost: If your cold pile seems too slow, try these remedies to jump start the decomposition process:

• Turn the heap to let in more air and sprinkle some water on the dry pockets.

• Add more nitrogen-rich materials like grass clippings, or sneak in a few cups of dry dog food (it's high in nitrogen).

• Pile on more debris until the pile reaches at least 3 feet high and 3 feet wide.

• Heat things up for a few weeks by covering the top of the pile with a black plastic tarp.

Hot Composting: Many avid composters argue that the very best way to make compost is through a process called "hot" composting. The advantages to hot composting are the speed at which the compost is finished (usually several weeks vs. several months), and the high temperature of the pile (above 130 F), which will kill most weeds, insects, and plants pathogens. The downside is that it requires slightly more work (turning the pile and monitoring the temperature), and you may need to "inoculate" the first pile with microorganisms to get it off and running.

"Cooking" the pile: Start by layering equal amounts of brown and green organic matter until you create a compost pile that is 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide (each layer should be 4 to 6 inches thick). Moisten the pile as you build it and allow it to sit for three days. Then use a pitchfork to turn and re-moisten the pile. As you turn it, try to move the material from the outside of the pile to the inside of the pile. Turn the pile again five days later. At this point you should feel heat radiating from the pile as you turn it. Wait one week and turn the pile again. After the third turning the temperature of the pile should be sufficient to create finished compost in another 4 to 6 weeks.

Directions for building simple compost bins

Vermicomposting

This composting method uses one or more specialized species of earthworms (not the big, burrowing types that live in garden soil) to turn organic wastes-especially kitchen scraps-into high quality compost. The worms are housed in specially designed boxes (usually kept indoors) and fed kitchen scraps, shredded newspaper and cardboard. The finished compost is made up entirely of worm castings and has been shown to be higher in nutrients than compost produced by other methods. Read more about vermicomposting here.

A Recipe for Making Good Compost

The secret to making good compost is getting the right ratio of materials and keeping them evenly moist. When adding materials to your pile, your goal should be to create a mix containing 50% brown materials (rich in carbon), 30% parts green materials (rich in nitrogen) and roughly 10% garden soil. Then add a little water to the mix to encourage activity by insects, earthworms, fungi and other microbes. Finally, add a little high-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g. a few scoops of dry dog food) to jump-start composting activity. If you are creating a "hot" pile adjust the brown/green ratios to 2:1, adding in water as needed. Instead of adding garden soil, you may want to add in a commercial supplement of microorganisms to get your pile started. After that, keep a small amount of finished compost on hand to use as an inoculant for subsequent piles.

50% Brown Matter (carbon-rich, dry) Including:

• Fallen leaves

• Chopped twigs

• Straw

• Wood chips

• Wood ashes

• Shredded newspaper

• Sawdust

• Egg shells

30% Green Matter (nitrogen-rich, moist) Including:

• Grass clippings

• Manure (not from dogs or cats)

• Green weeds

• Green plant foliage

• Fruit and vegetable waste

• Coffee grounds and filters

• Tea bags

10% Garden soil
5% Water
5% High nitrogen fertilizer

The Finished Product

Your compost is ready to use in the garden when its temperature is cool to the touch, and it has an earthy smell and crumbly texture. To help prevent the enzymes and micronutrients in your compost from leeching out with rain water, cover the heap with a sheet of plastic.

Trouble-shooting Common Composting Problems

Problem: The pile smells like sulfur.
Cause: A pile that smells like "rotten eggs" is either too wet, or lacks oxygen.
Solution: Aerate the pile by turning it over and letting it dry out a bit, and then add more dry materials.

Problem: The pile smells like ammonia.
Cause: This is usually due to fermenting food scraps lying on top of the pile.
Solution: Turn the pile and add additional carbon-rich (brown) material such as leaves.

Problem: The pile smells like sewage and is attracting flies.
Causes: This is most likely the result of too much nitrogen.
Solution: Turn the scraps to the center of pile, and cover them with a layer of garden soil or brown matter.

By Ellen Brown

Building a Compost Pile

Question

I currently have a pile of compost and I would like to speed things up a bit by building a compost "system". What's a good composting strategy and what should I build? Any links, tips or ideas would be appreciated.

Deb in MI

Answer:

Woven wire animal fencing (like chicken wire), snow fencing, cement blocks, bricks or scrap lumber can all be used to enclose a compost pile.

The enclosure should measure at least 3' x 3' x 3' for efficient composting. For square shaped enclosure may need supports if you're using wire mesh fencing. You can use metal fence posts to anchor the corners or build 4 simple "picture frames" from 2 x 4s to attach the mesh fencing to. Hinge the frames together with door hinges and make a square box. It's not necessary to enclose the bottom.

A small round enclosure made of snow fence will need little or no support. If you use bricks or concrete blocks to build an enclosure, there is no need to use mortar, but you will need to leave enough space between the blocks to allow for adequate air movement.

If you use lumber for any part of the enclosure, you can expect to replace it every few years as decay sets in. Treated lumber may last longer, but it can also leech harmful chemicals into the soil and compost.

Still another idea is to use a 55-gallon barrel (drum) with a hinged lid. You'll need to drill or hammer several rows of _ inch air holes in the sides and bottom. The barrel should sit on concrete blocks to allow for air circulation.

For maximum efficiency, the compost pile needs to consist of the right carbon/nitrogen (brown to green) ratio (between 25:1 to 30:1). If your bin is not completely enclosed on the bottom, use the following recipe:

Bottom Layer (directly on soil):

2-3 inches of chopped brush

Second Layer (browns):

6 to 8 inch layer of leaves, straw, hay, sawdust or other brown.

Third Layer (greens):

Add a layer of vegetable waste, grass clippings, etc.

Final Layer:

Add a handful of commercial fertilizer or a 2 to 3 inch layer of manure. Finish with a couple of shovelfulls of soil. Soil contains the microorganisms necessary to get the process started.

As you build the pile, water each layer until it's damp (like a wrung out sponge). Continue to add layers as you accumulate them, adding a thin layer of soil to the top of green layers and making sure the whole pile stays moist. Turn the pile with a shovel every few weeks to add air to the pile.

Composting With Sawdust and Grass Clippings

A quick and easy compost method if you don't have manure but do have a good supply of grass clippings. Grass is quite high in nitrogen. Mix one part of sawdust with four parts of fresh grass clippings. Turn and mix the pile thoroughly every third day for three weeks. Do not make layers, and do not add water--the fresh clippings will produce enough moisture. The heat will go down by the fifteenth or eighteenth day, and the compost will be ready to use.

By April

How do I make my own compost?

Question:

How do I make my own compost? Alamuki from Tacoma, WA

Answer:

Alamuki,

Composting doesn't have to be complicated. There are really no hard and fast rules, but here are some tips for getting started.

Find a convenient place near your garden to start a pile. Avoid low-lying areas. You don't want your pile to stand in water.

A compost pile needs to be large enough to hold in heat and moisture, but small enough to allow air into the center. An ideal size is 3 ft. by 3 ft. by 3 ft. This will give you 1 cubic yard of composting space. Piles smaller than this will work, too, just keep in mind that they have a tendency to dry out faster, which slows down the process.

You can enclose your compost heap using any number of available materials: straw bales, wire or wood fencing, blocks or cement bricks, stones, boards or scrap lumber. If you decide to go with wood, use the cheap stuff because rotting compost will eventually rot the wood and it will just have to be replaced. If you want something a little more fancy, there are a dizzying array of prefabricated bins and barrels available, too. You can also search for do-it-yourself plans online that you can customize to your own tastes.

Now all you need to do is start adding the compost. Each time you add some compost it's a great idea to toss a small bit of dirt on top (this adds the bacteria and microbes that do all the work) and sprinkle the pile with a bit of water. You'll want to keep the pile slightly damp, but not overly wet. Every week or so, use a pitchfork or shovel to turn over the pile. This allows air to circulate throughout the pile and along with a bit of moisture, keeps the decomposing process in high gear. Everything will break down eventually, but some people find it more convenient to shred or chop items to reduce their size before adding them to the pile. This also makes the process move along more quickly.

A good ratio organic matter for optimal composting:

• 50-70% leaves, hay or other dry matter (Browns)
• 30-50% grass, garbage or manure (Greens)
• 0-5% Dirt (or old compost)
• A little bit of water
• Good air circulation

It's best to avoid composting animal products (meat, fish, poultry, fat, bones, eggs, and dairy). They tend to smell. Avoid vegetable oils and do not compost plastics or synthetic fibers.

Ellen

Keeping Your Compost Pile Trouble-Free

Composting is an easy, inexpensive way to reduce your yard and kitchen waste, while keeping your garden filled with nutrient-rich soil. Keep your compost pile neat and trouble-free, by preventing these common problems before they arise.

Sour Smells

A well-balanced, well-aerated compost heap produces a sweet smelling finished product and very little odor in the process. Disagreeable smells usually indicate an imbalance in the ratio of green (nitrogen) to brown (carbon) materials in the pile, a lack of air, or too much moisture. Grass clippings, for example, tend to suffocate whatever is composting underneath them. They also cause an ammonia-like odor as they ferment. Avoid odors by mixing keeping a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio of browns to greens. To ensure your pile maintains enough air circulation, keep layers of grass clippings to one inch thick and turn the pile frequently. Prevent other bad smells by keeping meat, dairy products, and pet waste out of your pile, as well as fatty foods like salad dressings and oils.

Attracting Animals

If you compost animal products like meat, eggs, milk, or cheese, or fatty foods like oils and dressings, eventually your compost pile will attract animals (domesticated or otherwise). These animals will then tell all of their animal friends about it, and before you know it, the whole neighborhood is standing on your doorstep wielding torches and pitchforks. This scenario can be completely avoided by composting only kitchen waste that is derived from plants (e.g. peelings, leaves, stems and cores). Bread, pasta, and eggshells are the exception to this rule. They are also compostable (considered browns). Fruit remnants can be tempting to some animals, so bury them in the middle of the pile to prevent problems.

Insects Invaders

Decomposing kitchen scraps can act as a beacon to bees, wasps, and flies. To prevent this, each time you add kitchen greens to the pile, create a "fly barrier" by covering them with a layer of chopped leaves or newspaper. The vast majority of insects, fungi, and microorganisms that take up residence in your compost pile are beneficial and should be left alone to do their bug business. You may occasionally see beetles, grubs, snails, slugs, and sowbugs. Don't worry about them escaping into your garden. They are more likely to become a delectable treat for neighborhood birds.

Sprouting Weeds

The easiest way to prevent a bumper crop of weeds from sprouting in your pile is to maintain an active pile and avoid composting weeds that spread by roots or rhizomes (save them for the trash). An active pile will maintain an inner heat of somewhere between 140 degrees F and 160 degrees F - hot enough to prevent most seeds from germinating. The hottest temperature is in the center of the pile where most of the decomposition takes place. As waste turns into compost, the temperature of the pile starts to cool down. To keep things heated up, frequently turn the center of your pile (at least twice a month) and make sure your compost stays damp (not soggy).

By Ellen Brown

Compost Jump Start

During the winter I set a large trash can outside my kitchen door. I place my food scraps (compostable ones) in this during the winter. There is no smell as it rarely gets above freezing in Vermont during the winter. I also pile up dead branches and holiday trimmings (trees, boughs, and corn stalks) from fall clean up. Adding in the branches and such from spring clean up. I borrow a wood chipper in the spring and chip all the wood then mix it with the now full trash can of scraps and I have a huge headstart on my compost pile.

Kathy from Northfield, VT