Purchasing Garden Tools

What To Look For When Shopping For Garden Hand-Tools

Buying new or replacement garden tools can be a sizeable, but necessary, investment. Here are some tips for choosing high-quality, long-lasting tools so you know you are getting the most value for your money.

You Get What You Pay For (Usually)

When purchasing garden tools, it almost always better to buy the highest quality you can afford - even if it seems expensive at the time. Well-designed tools made from quality materials will only save you time and money in the long run. The exception to this may be pruners. Buying an expensive pair of pruners isn't as important as buying a pair that can be disassembled easily for cleaning and sharpening.

When shopping for tools, it's important to read labels and understand manufacturer claims:

Forged or drop-forged: This term means the blade or head has been formed by mechanically hammering or pressing a hot metals into dies. Forging improves the strength of the metal by aligning and stretching the grain structure and produces a stronger, better balanced tool than pressed or machine formed tools.

Gauge: This refers to the overall thickness of the metal head or blade. The lower the gauge number, the thicker the steel and the less likely the blade or head will break due to heavy use. Thicker gauge metal is also easier to sharpen.

Heat-treated or tempered: This indicates that the steel use to make the tool has undergone a re-heating process, which creates a tougher and less brittle head or blade. Tempered metal is usually easier to sharpen and will stay sharp longer.

High-carbon steel: A very strong steel in which the main alloying constituent is carbon. Tools made from high-carbon steel are very hard, wear-resistant, and able to take a sharp edge.

Solid hardwood handle: A good hardwood handle offers more flexibility and less vibration and cold transfer than a metal or fiberglass handle, but not all "hardwoods" are created equal. If you're looking for a wooden handle that will last, choose white ash or hickory. Make sure it's straight and knot-free. Also check to see how the head or blade of the garden tool is the attached to the handle. The metal should wrap securely around the shaft in one piece (no seams) and be securely connected. If the connection point jiggles even a little in the store, set it down and keep looking. Don't be afraid of plastic, fiberglass, or thick, tubular steel handles on smaller hand tools.

Stainless steel: These garden tools tend to be more expensive, because they are extremely resistant to corrosion and rust. Look for tempered steel for added flexibility. Stamped: This refers to a tool made from a piece of sheet metal has been cut or punched and then bent (formed) using a machine press or stamping press. Tools made this way are usually lightweight and inexpensive, but also weaker and much less durable.

Handle Length & Shape

In addition to considering how they will be used - sitting, kneeling, or standing - it's important to choose tools that match your height and strength. Tools with longer handles will provide you with the greatest amount of leverage and reach, but require more arm strength. Tools with shorter handles give you greater flexibility and maneuverability in tight spaces, but require greater leg strength. From straight handles to D-shaped, O-shaped, and T-shaped shaped handles, the style you choose is a matter of personal preference and comfort. Be sure to get a feel for the tool's weight, length, and grip in the store before you buy it.

Left-Handed Gardeners Haven't Been Forgotten

Many people assume that gardening hand tools are designed to be ambidextrous - meaning they may be used equally well with either hand. Of course, most of the people that assume this are also right-handed. If you're a left-handed gardener, trying to perform a simple garden task using a tool designed for right-handed people can be incredibly frustrating - and at times, even dangerous. Although they are typically harder to find, many weeders, hoes, pruners, and trowels are now available in both right and left-handed models.

Padded Handles and Ergonomic Design

All other design features being equal, if you have the choice, always go for tools with padded handles and an ergonomic design. These tools are specially designed to minimize sore wrists and help prevent blisters. If you want to make the tools you're currently using more comfortable, try adding cushion to your handles using pieces of pipe insulation.

Colorful Tools Are Hard To Lose

Have you ever set one of your garden tools down for minute while performing another task only to spend the next 5 minutes wandering around trying to find it again? Yeah. Me too. Those yellow pruners and electric green trowels you see on store shelves lately are meant to be an eyesore. Brightly colored tools are easier to spot against black dirt and green foliage.

By Ellen Brown

Comparing Wheelbarrows and Garden Carts

When faced with lugging plants, soil, other materials around the yard, wheelbarrows and garden carts are indispensable tools. As a means of transport, each has their advantages and disadvantages. Here are some side by side comparisons of their basic features, as well as some shopping tips if you find yourself in the market to buy one.

Wheelbarrows

Many variations of the garden wheelbarrow have appeared over the years, but most of the wheelbarrows you see displayed in big box garden centers these days are actually modeled after a contractor's wheelbarrow - sloped metal sides designed to haul cement.

Traditionally, garden wheelbarrows were made of wood. They had one metal wheel in front, a stabilizing leg on each side in the rear, and upright sides that could be removed for dumping. Today's wheelbarrows benefit from advances in design and feature things like double wheels for increased stability and square-shaped trays for added capacity.

Wheelbarrow Advantages

• Maneuverability. With their narrow front, wheelbarrows can maneuver into tight spaces better than large garden carts.
• Dumping. Wheelbarrows tip easily making them handy for dumping loose material like leaves, compost, soil, or gravel.
• Design options. For gardeners who lack a shed or garage, collapsible or "ground flush" models fold flat for compact storage.

Wheelbarrow Disadvantages

• Weight distribution. Since the load lies well behind the axle and wheel, the user bears is forced to bear a lot of the load with their arms, shoulders, and back.
• Stability. Pushing most loaded wheelbarrows through soft earth is virtually impossible. The same is true for pushing a heavy load up a hill.

Garden Carts

Garden carts have either two or four wheels. Depending on the style, the wheels may be tall and thin with spokes, similar to bicycle tires, or be short and wide like those on a wheelbarrow. The body of a classic garden cart is made from wood panels reinforced by a metal frame, but many of today's models are made from metal or thick plastic. Some models have a fixed front panel, and removable panels on the sides. Others have flat beds with no sides at all.

Garden Cart Advantages

• Weight distribution. The placement of the tires on garden carts means that the load lies directly above the axles and wheels. This allows the user to move heavier loads with less effort.
• Stability. On a garden cart, the wheels are placed on either side of the load, which increases the load's stability and prevents it from tipping.
• Capacity. Garden carts are great for hauling heavy loads and bulky cargo, like stones and firewood. The square shape of the bed also maximizes cargo room.

Garden Cart Disadvantages

• Maneuverability. Flat beds can be difficult to maneuver on non-smooth surfaces and a garden cart is large, square shape doesn't fit easily into small spaces.
• Dumping. Garden carts are designed not to tip, so dumping can be difficult unless you have a removable front panel.

Tips for Buying Either One

• Workmanship. Make sure the frame and tray are held together with bolts or welded joints. If possible, select "professional" or "industrial" grade models. Cheap wheelbarrows and garden carts are widely available, but most of them wont stand up to heavy-duty yard work over time.
• Payload size. The capacity of wheelbarrows and garden carts are measured in cubic feet. The size you choose will determine how well it can carry a load. Think about the largest amount of materials you're likely to be transporting and consider getting slightly more capacity than you think you will need.
• Overall Size. If you have a gate, arbor, or you need to haul materials through a narrow space between buildings or trees, be sure to buy a wheelbarrow or garden cart that will fit in between the space. Take your physical limitations into consideration as well. For example, pulling a cart might be easier than pushing a wheelbarrow, if you have mobility issues.

  A cart with a low bed will be easier to get things in and out of than the deep tray of a wheelbarrow. Do you have trouble bending? A wheelbarrow may be easier to tip and dump. You should be able to easily pull or lift the weight of the cart/wheelbarrow when it's empty.

• Wheels. Wheels with a smaller width and diameter may get bogged down when carrying heavy loads through wet or muddy terrain. Large diameter bicycle-type wheels will ride easily over rocks and ruts. Pneumatic (air-filled) tires are easy to push, but they can also go flat. Solid or foam filled tires come in wider sizes, which makes navigating rough terrain easier.
• Materials. Keep in mind that the materials the wheelbarrow or garden cart is made from will contribute to its overall strength as well as its weight. Wood is sturdy, but over time it may warp or splinter, and eventually it will rot. Metal is durable, but it's heavier and may also rust. Plastic is the most weather proof, as long as it is thick, high density polypropylene and UV-resistant.
• Towing. Look for carts that can perform double duty - those designed with convertible handles that can be hooked behind a garden tractor or bicycle.
• Buying Online. One disadvantage to shopping online is not being able to feel and closely inspect the item before you buy it. Another is shipping costs. For large items like wheelbarrows and garden carts, shipping can end up being nearly as much as the price of the cart itself. Not only that, but some assembly may be required once it finally arrives. On the upside, shopping online does give the opportunity to gather information and read user reviews.

By Ellen Brown

Buying Pruning Tools

When pruning trees and shrubs, it is important to use the right tool for the job. With so many different types of pruning tools available-each one designed to perform a specific task, buying the right tools can be a bit overwhelming. Here's what you need to know to buy the right tool for the job.

A complete set of pruning and trimming tools for the gardener usually includes a pair of hand pruners; a pair of long-handled loppers; a pruning saw to handle larger branches; and a pair of garden shears for trimming hedges. Exactly which of these tools you should buy depends on your individual needs and your personal preferences for style.

Hand Pruners

Hand pruners are used for pruning soft shoots and woody stems up to ½ inch thick. They come in two basic styles: bypass and anvil.

Bypass pruners: This style of pruner cuts with a scissor-like action. Its thin, tapered blades make it ideal for reaching in between branches. The sharp, upper cutting blade passes against the lower, square-edged "holding" blade. This action allows you to make a smooth accurate cut very close to the tree (or stem) you're pruning.

Anvil pruners: These pruners cut with a single straight cutting blade that closes down on the center of a flat edge or anvil. This style of pruner tender to be a bit more bulky and the cutting action prevents you from cutting as close to the trunk as a bypass pruners (you are more likely to leave a small stub). The advantage is that the design of these pruners allows them to cut larger branches with less probability of damaging the blade.

Ergonomics:Pruners can start to take a toll on your hands and wrist after only several minutes of repeated use, so try them before you buy them. Check that they feel comfortable in your hand and are easy to operate. The handle material and shape, how wide they open, and the pressure of the return spring all vary considerably from one style to the next. All pruners should be fitted with some type of safety catch that locks the blade in the closed position. Some models are designed with a ratchet system for cutting through a shoot in stages. These require less effort and cause less strain to the hands and wrist, but are slower to use.

If all you're going to be doing is cutting soft-stemmed plants like flowers, a light-weight inexpensive pair is probably all you need. For pruning fruit trees and shrubs with woody shoots up to ½ inch (1cm) thick, a pair of "professional" or "heavy-duty pruners" is a much better choice. Look for pruners that can be dismantled (by you) for sharpening and that replacement blades are available.

Long-Handled Loppers

A pair of long-handled loppers can be useful for removing slightly larger woody stems (½ to 1 inch thick), where smaller, hand pruners may become damaged. They also make it possible to prune stems that are high up or out of reach of other pruners. Because the long handles give added leverage, loppers make it easier to cut through thick stems. Like hand-held pruners, long-handled loppers come in both bypass and anvil designs (some with ratchet mechanisms). When shopping for them, the most important thing to consider is their overall weight. They should be durable enough to do the job, but not so heavy that you can't extend your arms (or reach over your head) for reasonable periods of time.

Pruning Saws

Use a pruning saw for severing branches more than about 1 inch thick. Because sawing in a confined space between other branches (often at an awkward angle) may be difficult, various types of pruning saw have been developed. Because pruning saws need to be sharpened by a professional, the saws you purchase should have hardpoint, heat-treated teeth, which stay sharper longer than ordinary teeth. Handles are usually made of plastic or wood, and sometimes are padded. As with other pruning tools, you should choose whichever feels most comfortable and allows for a secure grip. General purpose pruning saw: Invaluable for most pruning jobs, this saw has a small, straight blade (no more than 18 inches long), that makes it the ideal tool for pruning branches in confined areas and at awkward angles.

Curved saw: Like its name suggests, this saw has a curved blade and cuts only on the "pull" stroke. It is an excellent choice for confined spaces where it is easier to use pressure on a pull, rather than a push stoke.

Double-edged pruning saw: This versatile saw is equipped with teeth on both edges of the blade-one side coarse and the other fine. It can be difficult to operate in confined spaces without the top teeth damaging a nearby branch.

Bow saw: The sharp, variegated teeth on this saw cuts through thick branches quickly. It works great in open areas, but it's large, bow-shaped handle makes it difficult to operate in a confined space.

Tree Pruners: The tree pruners suitable for cutting branches up to 1 inch thick that would otherwise be out of reach. The cutting device is positioned at the end of a long pole next to a hook that is lowered over the branch to be cut. The blade is then pulled back and forth using either a lever system or a cord. Tree pruners may have saw and fruit-picker attachments.

Garden Shears (Hedge Clippers)

Garden shears are used mainly for trimming hedges, but they are also useful for shaping topiary, cutting back herbaceous plants, and clipping small areas of long grass that can't be accessed by a weed trimmer or lawn mower. Before buying, check that the shears are well balanced and the plates are not too heavy, or they will be tiring to operate. Standard shears usually have one notched blade to hold a thick shoot during cutting and are operated using both hands. Single-handed shears have a spring mechanism similar to hand pruners that allow them to be operated with one hand. Some types have blades that swivel-useful for cutting at an angle or vertically.

By Ellen Brown