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Hello,
We have a lot of gardening requests this week. Please look them over. We also have some great articles, tips and advice. If you have any tips, photos or gardening requests, feel free to post them at the links below.
Happy Gardening!
Susan
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Today's Photos
| Poinsettia "Tree"
This tree is actually a poinsetta plant; it was a Christmas gift from my family a few years ago and I trained it as a tree form. It has full green lush leaves on it and it is a conversation piece on my back deck that it sets on. I have a small nativity scene at the base near the trunk of the "tree" and an ornament "J-o-y" hanging on one of its branches.
By WandaJo from Collierville, Tennessee Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Garter Snake Under the Bush
I was weeding the peony bush I have planted under the mailbox. I checked to see if I got all the weeds and much to my surprise this garter snake was looking back at me.
By Jan at Springfield, Minnesota Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Grandchildren and Gardening
Grandchildren loving the garden and the resulting ride.
By Teresa from Stuarts Draft, Va Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Night Blooming Cereus
This is two of 15 night-blooming cereus' that bloomed on Jul 18th (6) and Jul 19th (9). The plant is quite large and about 30 years old. The blooms last only one night, are very fragrant and are spectacular! This plant normally blooms from mid-July through the end of August.
By J Guice from Diamondhead, MS Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Make Your Own Butterfly Feeder
By Ellen Brown For many species of butterflies, flower nectar is the favorite entrée on the menu. If you want to take your butterfly garden to the next level, try adding a small feeding station that offers them rotting fruit. Red Admirals, Red-Spotted Purples, Commas and Mourning Cloaks all appreciate an occasional bite of rotting "fruit cocktail." Here are directions for an easy-to-make feeding station that will also add a bit of color and whimsy to your garden. View This Article With Photos: Click Here |
Today's Tips and Articles
After Picking Zucchini, My Plants Look Limp
Question:We had a few zucchini ready for picking yesterday, so we picked them. This morning I went to check on the garden and all 3 of our plants are limp and the leaves look like they closed up for the night! What on earth is happening?Hardiness Zone: 5b Sarah from Delaware, OH Answer:Sarah,Your wilted zucchini plants are probably just suffering from some water loss due to harvesting. When you harvest your zucchini, it's best to avoid removing any of the fruits during the heat of the day when plants are losing the greatest amounts of water through transpiration. This is because water is lost through the wounds where the zucchini was attached to the vine, which increases the water stress inside the plant. This additional water loss can temporarily cause them to look wilted. You can help reduce this stress by making a clean cut when harvesting. Use a paring knife or shears and cut through the stem about an inch above the zucchini to remove it from the vine. A clean slice will help to cut down on water loss, where as twisting or yanking the fruit to remove it can permanently damage the vine (and injure the fruit). Harvesting in the cool hours of the morning or evening will also cut down on water loss. Make sure to keep your zucchini plants well watered throughout the season. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
My Cantaloupes and Watermelon Stopped Growing
Question:We are giving growing cantaloupes and watermelon a try. We have had very hot and dry weather since we put the plants in a month ago, and have watered every day. We have several fruit started on the plants, but neither seems to have grown any the past 1 1/2 weeks, whereas they all had been showing noticeable changes every few days. (The fruit ranges from tennis ball size to large grapefruit size.) Is this normal?Hardiness Zone: 8a Tennie from Sherman, TX Answer:Tennie,The state of Texas is always at the top of the pile for watermelon production in the U.S. That means that all things being equal, your chances for successful melon crops are better than that of the average gardener. There are three factors that will cause the growth of melons to come slow down (or stop): cool temperatures (below 60ºF), too much water or too little water. When melons don't get enough water they stop growing. Don't over-water them or the vines will collapse, but continue to keep them well watered like you have been doing and remember that the larger they get, the more water they will need. Allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings. Make sure you're using the right fertilizer. Use one with 4 parts phosphorus to 1 part nitrogen to promote larger vines and better fruiting. Ideally, this would have been added to the soil at planting time. Adding additional nitrogen after 1 month and again 2 months after planting will keep your vines growing. Cool temperatures are probably not your problem. Although watermelons like heat, the extreme temperatures this summer have been hard on everything. You can help prevent any further stress to your melons by keeping the vines free of weeds. Melons don't like to compete for nutrients. Even small weeds can stunt their growth and result in smaller melons. As long as the leaves and vines on your melon plants continue to look healthy, I suspect the slowdown in growth is probably only temporary. If you feel like you have a sufficient number of melons started, you can help to increase their size by removing any remaining flowers on the vines. This will channel all of the plant's remaining energy into expanding the fruit that is already there. Of course the final size of your melons will depend on what varieties you're growing. Good luck!
Post Feedback: Click Here |
Growing Asiatic Lilies in a Pot
Question:I just bought a pot of asiatic lilies (3 stems). I was wondering could I just grow them in a pot instead of ground? What about next year? Are they going to shoot in the pot for next year? I am a totally newbie at gardening. Any advice is welcomed.Helen from London, Ontario Answer:Helen, Asiatic lilies grow well in pots, as long as they have enough room. You'll need to assess the pot yours came in. Many nurseries sell lilies in pots not suited as permanent growing containers because they expect that the lilies will be transplanted into the garden. Your pot should be at least 12 inches in diameter (a 16-inch pot is enough room for about 5 bulbs and a 12-inch pot will hold about 3 bulbs). It's crucial that the potting medium is fast draining, and Asiatic lilies prefer a soil pH of 6.5. You can repot them now, as long as they are not flowering. In the future, try to save any necessary repotting for the fall after the lilies naturally die back. Keep the pots located in a sunny spot with good air circulation. Lilies are heavy feeders so don't forget to fertilize them with an organic fertilizer throughout the growing season (follow directions on package). A fertilizer that is higher in potassium (like a tomato fertilizer) will give you the best flowers. Most Asiatic lilies are only hardy to around zone 5, so you'll need to offer your lilies protection from the cold in the winter. Bring the pots in before your first frost and keep them in an unheated garage or basement. Don't cut the stems until they turn completely brown in the fall. (If you cut lily stems for arrangements, make sure you leave at least 2/3 of the stem in the pot to store energy for next year). Set them back out in the spring as soon as danger of frost has passed. Good luck!
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Vermicomposting - Indoor Worm Ranching
By Ellen Brown Vermicomposting (composting with worms) is easy, odorless, cheap, and great for the environment. It takes up little space, can be done year-round and no pets will love your garbage as unconditionally as the tiny Red Wiggler! View This Article: Click Here |
| Organic Pest Control
By Ellen Brown Most gardeners encounter pest problems at some point during the growing season. Organic gardeners "control" (within tolerable levels) these insect pests without the use of synthetic chemicals. Successful insect pest control, however, begins long before you spot the first leaf holes and slime trails. It starts with a good garden environment. View This Article: Click Here |
Fast Growing Trees
Question:We recently had to cut down a 30-year-old willow tree with a 4 foot stump radius that I had planted for shade. It has left a big "hole" in my front yard; as the other side is smaller and has 3 tall maples and a large blue spruce. It was on the northwest side so it blocked the sun until it went down. I need to do something before fall and don't know what to do. We are not allowed to burn the stump which we were originally going to do and replant something. We get very bad winds here and would like to plant something that will survive the winters and grow quickly. I don't have too much space with that huge stump.Hardiness Zone: 6a Thanks,
Answer:Betty, My condolences on the loss of such a beautiful tree! Fortunately, you have several good options for fast growing replacements that grow well in your zone: Hybrid Poplar (up to 8 feet per year), Autumn Purple Ash (great fall foliage), Red Maple (great fall foliage), Flowering Pear (white flowers), Ponderosa Pine (evergreen), Empress Tree (for fast shade and lavender flowers), Willow (to replace what you lost) and Quaking Aspen (often grown commercially for pulp because of its fast growth rate). There are more possibilities, of course, but these are some ideas to investigate. In general, fast growing and the ability to survive high winter winds are not necessarily traits that are compatible. You may find yourself compromising one trait in favor of another.You didn't mention whether or not you're looking for advice on how to get rid of your stump, but if you don't plan on grinding it down, there are some inexpensive tricks that will make the wood breakdown faster. Normally it takes at least 4-5 years for the wood to breakdown (even longer for large stumps like yours). To expedite the process, I would recommend drilling several holes around the perimeter of the stump and filling them with some type of sugar (syrup, jelly, white sugar, molasses, etc.) or buttermilk. The idea is to get the decomposition process started quickly. After filling up the holes, wet down the stump and cover it with a thick layer of mulch. Cover the mulch with a dark colored tarp. This will reduce the time it takes the wood to decompose by half. In the meantime, maybe you could disguise the tarp by placing planters filled with seasonal plants on top. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Intensive Gardening Techniques - Small Spaces, Big Yields
By Ellen Brown No matter how small your garden plot is, intensive gardening will maximize the productivity of your available space. Intensive gardening does this by utilizing season-extending tools and specific planting techniques. Sometimes called "square foot" gardening, or "French intensive gardening" (the French developed it), here are some intensive gardening techniques to give you the biggest garden possible for your small space. View This Article: Click Here |
Hummingbird Vine Not Blooming
Question:I have had a hummingbird vine planted now for 2 years. It has grown to the maximum, but unfortunately it hasn't bloomed in the 2 years I have had it. Do you have any idea why it possibly hasn't bloomed at all since I've had the plant? Do you think I may need to trim it back some? My mother had planted one at the same time as I did and hers hasn't bloomed yet either. Any information would be greatly appreciated.Hardiness Zone: 6a Thank you, Sincerely,
Answer:Dianna, There are a number of reasons your hummingbird vine isn't blooming. I'm going to assume your talking about Campsis radicans, also sometimes called trumpet creeper or trumpet vine. My first guess is that it's simply too young. These are fast-growing vines (foliage wise), but they usually don't start fully flowering until they are 5-7 years old. You'll probably see some light flowering before then, but it might take another year or two. When the vines are young, they are putting all of their effort into getting established and growing in size. Once they settle in well, they will switch gears and start to put energy into flowering. The fact that your mom's vine, which was planted at the same time, still hasn't flowered, only confirms this. Don't worry about cutting it back unless it starts to grow out of control. Also, don't go overboard on nitrogen fertilizers or you will get an abundance of leaves, but no flowers. If you fertilize at all (personally, I wouldn't) do so only lightly in the spring. Also, avoid fertilizing your lawn near the location of your vine. Trumpet vines are very sensitive to excess nitrogen. Don't worry about prunning any new growth unless things start to grow out of control and make sure your vine is in a location that receives at least 6-8 hours of sun per day. If you're patient, Mother Nature will undoubtedly reward you with blooms, but not until she's good and ready. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
Spiders for Pest Control in the Garden
Question:My first year gardening using 'natural predators', so maybe your knowledge about spiders would help answer my question. I know that having spiders in the garden are beneficial since they eat insects. But do they do this for their whole life cycle or just during their infancy? I am wondering if it best to keep the spider webs up (to catch those insects for them) or not.Hardiness Zone: 9a Jaime from USA Answer:Jaime,I applaud your choice to control pests using natural predators. I admit I'm rather spider-phobic (creepy childhood incident), but enjoy watching them go about their business from a distance. They are truly amazing creatures! Although I'm by no means a spider expert, I was able to unearth this information regarding the average garden spider's life cycle. Garden spiders lay their eggs within a silken egg sac-usually in the fall. This is the cottony ball or football-shaped sac we often see tucked up inside the spider web, in leaf debris or being carried around by the female spider. Sometimes they lay several of these egg sacs, producing as many as 3,000 eggs over a relatively short period of time. The female usually dies after laying her eggs, and depending on when they were laid, the eggs hatch into spiderlings in a few weeks or wait until the following spring. The spiderlings then make their way out into the world by "ballooning"-producing a single silk thread, which picks them up by the wind and transports them to their new destination. Spiders are considered "adults" in one year and usually only live one or two seasons, although some live for several years. They can shed (molt) their skin up to 12 twelve times before reaching adulthood. There are generally two classes of spiders-the web spinner and the hunters. Both are extremely beneficial in the garden because of their ability to control pests. They prey on many insects including aphids, caterpillars, cucumber beetles, flies, grasshoppers, leafhoppers, moths and thrips. Web spinning spiders can create their elaborate webs in as fast as an hour, and they are generally more delicate than spiders that hunt on foot. All spiders are very sensitive to lawn and garden chemicals. You can help protect them by leaving some organic mulch overwinter or planting a cover crop for the egg sacs. Hunting insects, whether by web or on foot, is how spiders make their living. They continue to hunt and capture prey (and control pests in the garden) throughout their short lifetimes. As for the spider webs, leave them up until they feature an expired female spider and/or an empty egg sac. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
| 5 Tips for Illuminating Your Garden Landscape
By Ellen Brown Lighting plays an important role in creating an outdoor environment. The trend towards creating beautiful, functional outdoor living spaces means finding lighting options that are both practical and aesthetically pleasing. Fortunately, homeowners have more options for outdoor lighting than ever before. Unfortunately, all those choices can make planning a lighting strategy for your landscape a bit confusing. Here are five tips for illuminating your outdoor space. View This Article: Click Here |
My Daylilies Have Never Bloomed
Question:I have had daylilies for about 3 years now, planted in full sun. I've never had them bloom yet. Any suggestions?Hardiness Zone: 3b Deb Tilbury from Manitoba, Canada Answer:Deb,Several things could be going on here.
Hope these ideas help!
Post Feedback: Click Here |
Pruning a Jasmine Plant
Question:When is the best time to prune a (star) jasmine plant? I haven't done this yet so how much can I prune it? Do I cut it back a little or way back? Do I have to to this during a particular season or anytime I am up for a bit of gardening work?Hardiness Zone: 9a Jaime from USA Answer:Jaime,Star Jasmine (also referred to as Confederate Jasmine) is known to be pretty resilient when it comes to pruning. Pruning it regularly will help you keep it in good shape and restrain it when necessary. Use a good, sharp hedge shears to do the job. There are several ways to go about the pruning process, so decide your objectives are and then proceed accordingly. Remove any lanky, gangly stems and braches anytime you're up for a bit of gardening work. If you want to encourage lateral growth, pinch back only the tips. If you're growing it as ground cover, prune back any stems that start twining upward. If you want it to grow like a hedge, shape it like a hedge. For jasmine that is growing completely out of control, cutting it back severely every once-in-a-while won't hurt it either. For general rejuvenation, prune it back 1 or 2 feet beyond where you want the new growth to emerge. How far you cut it back isn't as important as when you cut it back. Star jasmine blooms on last year's growth, so wait until immediately after it flowers to do any heavy pruning or you'll risk cutting off next year's buds. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
Getting Rid of Blackbirds
Question:I would like to know if any members know how I can get rid of Blackbirds. I have 2 feeders and they caused all my Pretty Songbirds to leave. I do have 2 pair of Morning Doves that are not afraid of the Blackbirds. All these Blackbirds do is eat up the seed and fight amongst themselves. I have tried not to put seed out, but they still hang around.Thanks for your help.
Answer:Sherry,I have dealt with a similar situation in the past (starlings); here are a few strategies to try:
Hang in there! They will eventually move on. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
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New Requests
| Growing Mammoth Sunflowers
I raised Mammoth Sunflowers this year, and they were beautiful. I would like to try to do it for a living, what spray should I use for the bugs that get into the seeds? Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Storing Onions
I planted large onions this year and we have a lot. How do I store them for the winter? Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Seeds on My Peace Lilies and Pink Cloud Caladiums
I think I have seeds on my Peace Lilly and on Pink Cloud Caladiums. There are extra growth's that have white or brown seeds on them. Are they seeds and where do I snip them off? Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Starting an Avocado From a Seed
I was wondering if anyone knows on how too start an Avocado Tree from a seed. Please Help Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Transplanting Rhubarb
When is the best time to relocate a rhubarb patch? Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Growing a Mango Tree
Is it possible to grow a Mango Tree in South Georgia. I'm in Zone 8a. Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Keeping Grass From Growing In a Flower Bed
I have already put down paper under my flower bed then planted some bulbs which are now flowering, however, grass is still managing to come through. Any advice on how to get rid of the grass without damaging my flowers would be greatly appreciated. Post Feedback: Click Here |
| A Plant Propagator Made from Car Tires
With the tip about the solar cooker made from car tyres, the same principle can be used for making a mini propagator for seedlings or a glasshouse if the tyres are stacked up. Don't put the foil on the bottom (like the solar cooker). If stacking tyres, they should be bolted with gutter bolts or staked so they don't tip over. Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Growing a Rainier Cherry Tree
I saw your advice on growing a cherry tree from a pit. Does this method remain accurate for the Rainier Cherry? Also, if the pit germinates can't more than one tree come from the pit since there are multiple seeds in the pit? Let me know. Thanks! Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Asiatic Lily Not Growing
I planted an Asiatic Lily from a 6" pot in full sun in April. I have a few new leaves coming out of the ground but the original stalks are doing nothing. I have fertilized and the plant is in full sun. I don't see any growth on the plant after the original flowers dropped. What am I doing wrong? Post Feedback: Click Here |
| The Bottom of My Tomatoes are Turning Brown
I was wondering if anyone knew why tomatoes ripen but on the bottom of the tomato they turn brown and rotten. Any help would be great. Have a Blessed day. Post Feedback: Click Here |
| What Type of Hydrangeas Do I Have?
I have two hydrangeas I bought from Frank's Nursery and Crafts two years ago and I cannot remember the name. Is there a hydrangea (big leaf) that begins with "Van" or "Von". I thought it was a nikko blue but the name seemed to begin with a V. Can you help? Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Green Solutions for Oxalis
How do I get rid of Oxalis - the green way? Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Getting Rid of Cattails
This may not be exactly a gardening request, but someone may know something about ridding a pond of cattails. Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Getting Rid of Russian Olive Bush
Does anyone know how to get rid of the Russian Olive bush, it is very invasive. I hope someone knows of something easy. Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Where Can I Buy Episcias?
I would like to know where you can buy Episcias, a good nursery that have good plants. Post Feedback: Click Here |
| White "Pods" Under Leaves
I have 2 flowering maple plants sitting on my window sill in my kitchen (faces East - gets morning sun) and one of them has bloomed many times and is beautiful! The other hasn't bloomed once, but has nice green leaves. I have noticed that there are small white "pods" or eggs (maybe) that are all over the underside of the leaves. Post Feedback: Click Here |
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Growing Guides
| Growing: French Tarragon
By Ellen Brown
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| Growing: English Mallow
By Ellen Brown
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| Growing: Feverfew
By Ellen Brown
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| Growing: Coriander
By Ellen Brown
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| Growing: Dill
By Ellen Brown
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