If you are talking about a poke bonnet, perhaps I can help as I remember my grandmother making one, I am 70 now. The brim is a rectangle of folded material with ends stitched; then turned. Next stitch from fold to open side, about 1 inches or so apart. These will have strips of cardboard slipped into them. This produces the sun shade part. The part that covers the head is also a rectangle the same length as the brim and is wide enough to cover the back of the neck and is stitched to the brim. I don't remember how, but it was done in such a way that the cardboard could be removed for washing. This piece was gathered about an inch from bottom, and the edges were folded over and stitched. Ties were added. I hope this helps. If you sew much, I think you can figure out the details which are lost to me. Good luck.