Happy Garden - August 23, 2007

Volume 2, Number 33, August 23, 2007 (Read It Online) I hope everyone is having success in their garden. We have some great tips this week, including tips for Making Concrete Patio Blocks and Getting Rid of Slugs. I hope you find them useful. If you have any gardening tips or photos to share, please submit them on the contest pages. Thanks for reading, Susan Send to a Friend! Submit Your Gardening Tips Submit Photos of Your Garden Submit a Gardening Request Edit Your Subscriptions: To edit your ThriftyFun subscriptions, click the Update Profile/Email Address link at the bottom of this newsletter. Today's newsletter contains: Photos: Butterfly In The Butterfly Bush Trash To Treasure Painting Giant Sunflowers Tips and Articles: How to Harvest Pumpkins Properly Watering The Garden In A Heat Wave Weeds in My Lawn Attaching Seeds To Planting Paper Growing Sunflowers in Containers Harvesting Horseradish How do you grow mint in a pot? Getting Rid of Slugs Making Concrete Patio Blocks New Requests: Help With Growing Watermelons Advice For Tree With Small Sour Apricots Advice For Tree With Small Figs Advice For Night Blooming Cereus What Is Eating Holes In My Leaves? Gnats on Houseplants Today's Sponsor: Crafting for Fun and Money! If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish. More Information: Click Here: http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_craft.ldml Photos: Butterfly In The Butterfly Bush This is a picture of a butterfly that I took in my front yard on their butterfly bush. I really don't know what kind it is. I thought the photo came out great myself. The colors are so bright and vivid. He is one of about 100 that stay in this bush. By Bonnie from Norman, OK Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf85641957.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Trash To Treasure Painting I had several items in my yard that I was using as yard art; wear and tear of these items in the weather elements caused rust and corrosion. I changed these items; painted them and they are again a nice addition to my yard art collection. I had an old milk can that the bottom had rusted out; it was painted black a few years ago and had been placed in a flower bed among the day lilies and irises; it had no top on it so i used it as a vase to put fresh flowers in; i painted it and used a spatter technique to finish it; i put a flower pot in it and placed a peace lily in it; i will change the flowers now according to season or holiday. It sits at the entrance of my back door on my backyard deck. I also had an old tea kettle that was bent and had rusted; I painted it and used the spatter technique on it; it sits on an old rusted small pot bellied stove that sits on our backyard deck; I punched holes in the bottom of the tea kettle; this fall it will have pansies in it and will bring lots of color to that area of our deck. The rusted pot bellied stove is inoperable and is used as a garden ornament; I like the rusty color so I will not paint it. By WandaJo from Tennessee Editor's Note: Here's is WandaJo's earlier post with the tea kettle on the old, rusted stove: Tea Kettle Yard Art Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf58297417.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Giant Sunflowers Here are my giant sunflowers I grew this year. I am only 5'2" so you can see how tall they are. Some of them are 14 feet high. They are beautiful. I have them planted in a square shape around my pumpkin patch. Have a great rest of the summer, fall will be here before you know it (my favorite time of year.) By Sandy from Bluff City, TN Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf16342465.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Tips and Articles: How to Harvest Pumpkins Properly To make sure your pumpkins last as long as possible, they must be harvested, cured, and stored properly. A common mistake is to harvest fruit while it's still immature. This will give you fruit that can not be successfully stored, giving you poor quality results. On the other hand, keep in mind that mature fruit that have been removed from the vine are still alive, so proper curing and storage will slow the rate of respiration, and prolong the storage life of the pumpkin. To harvest correctly, here is what you do: Harvest pumpkins when they have developed a deep uniform color, and have a hard rind. The rind will be firm and resist denting when pressed with a thumbnail Harvest all mature pumpkins before a hard freeze. A light frost will destroy the vines and should not harm the fruit, but a hard freeze, can damage the fruit, so get your pumpkins in before damaging hard frosts arrive When harvesting pumpkins handle them carefully to avoid cuts and bruises which can provide entrances for various rot-producing organisms Cut the fruit off the vine with a pruning shears. Leave a 3 to 4 inch (7.6 – 10.2 cm) handle on the pumpkins. A pumpkin with a "handle" is not only more attractive, but they are less likely to rot when they are harvested with a portion of the stem still attached to the fruit Try to never carry the fruit by their stems. The stems may not be able to support the weight and they may break off After harvesting, cure the pumpkins at a temperature of 80 to 85° F (27 to 29° C) and at a relative humidity of 80 to 85 % for about 10 days Curing helps to harden their skins and heal any cuts and scratches After curing, store pumpkins in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location. Storage temperatures should be 50 to 55° F (10 to 13° C) Never store pumpkins near apples, pears, or other ripening fruit. Ripening fruit release ethylene gas which shortens the storage life of pumpkins When storing pumpkins, place them in a single layer where they don't touch one another. Good air circulation helps to prevent moisture from forming on the surfaces of the fruit and helps prevent the growth of decay fungi and bacteria. Avoid placing pumpkins in piles. This generates unwanted heat which may result in the rotting of some fruit Periodically check pumpkins in storage and get rid of any fruit which show signs of decay Properly cured and stored pumpkins should remain in good condition for 2 to 3 months or longer depending up on the variety If you follow the above steps, you will be assured a successful harvest, and you can use your pumpkins any way you want after that! By Mythi from Silverdale WA Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf18600516.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Watering The Garden In A Heat Wave In this intense heat wave we are experiencing, (100 degrees F+) I have saved my garden produce from sunburn and kept the plants green by covering them with old bedsheets, tablecloths, etc. (or anything else that is lightweight) The tomatoes especially have done well. I am picking some of the prettiest tomatoes of the season...We are having a few clouds today with a 20% chance of rain, so I removed the sheets for the first time in almost two weeks, but will replace them if the high temps continue. Water daily, but don't use the overhead sprinklers, just drench the base of the plants with water from the hose. I also covered my pepper plants to keep them from sunburn. I am sure that Arkansas is not the only place suffering from the heat. By Harlean from Hot Springs, Arkansas Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf18929555.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Weeds in My Lawn Question: Our lawn is full of dandelion, clover and what I believe it is creeping charlie. What can I use that is homemade that will help to get rid of these without killing the grass? Hardiness Zone: 5b Midge from Buffalo, NY Answer: Sorry Midge, in the world of weed control, nothing homemade exists that will kill your weeds without killing your grass. In some areas you can carefully spot-spray weeds with a solution of vinegar, salt and a few drops of dish soap, but this homemade solution will kill anything it comes into contact with (including grass) and depending on the weed, it's only effective on above ground growth so it's not a guaranteed fix. I would advise some good old-fashioned elbow grease (hand-pulling) and applying an effective pre-emergent like corn meal gluten in the spring to help prevent some annual weed seeds from germinating. Otherwise the best way "homemade" way to improve your weed situation is to try to improve you lawncare practices. The healthier your lawn is, the more difficult of a time weeds will have taking over. Here are several suggestions: Mow at the recommended height for your grass (usually at least 3 inches), or set your blade higher than you've been mowing. Taller grass helps prevent sunlight from reaching weed seeds and seedlings. Hand-pull (or mow) weeds before they get the chance to go to seed. Make sure your lawn gets enough water. A good rule of thumb is at least 1 inch every 10 days to encourage good root growth and a thick, weed-resistant turf. Fertilize in late spring with a sprinkling of compost or aged manure to boost the vitality of your grass. Aerate your turf each spring to help air, water and nutrients reach grass roots. Good Luck! Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf59889606.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Attaching Seeds To Planting Paper Question: I would like to make my own plantable paper and put my own wildflower, or lavender seeds on the paper. How do I keep the seeds from falling off? MaryLynn from Saskatoon, SK Answer: MaryLynn, If the seeds are added during the papermaking process, they will become imbedded in the layers of pulp as the paper dries. Here are some directions for making plantable paper. Directions: Tear Paper into nickel-sized pieces, or use a paper shredder and place in blender (to half full). Make sure to remove any staples! You can also add bits of hemp or other natural fibers that may be safely composted once planted. Fill the blender with warm water. Blend for about 60 second on low to medium speed. Continue to increase the speed until no paper flakes remain and pulp appears smooth. Now make a mold by tightly tacking screen or mesh onto a frame of the desired size. Fill the washtub about half full of water and pour in pulp from blender. Add in at least 3 blender loads of paper-more if desired (the more pulp, the thicker the paper). Add in flower or vegetable seeds. Small, flat seeds like forget-me-not, hollyhock, chili pepper and tomato seeds work wonderfully. Stir the mixture. Slip the frame into the washtub, gently moving it from side to side to get the pulp around to the top of the frame level and to the desired thickness. Let the layer of pulp settle and slowly lift the frame up so it is above water level. Let it drain for a moment and check to see if it is level. Fill the turkey-baster with pulp from the washtub and use it to fill in any uneven spots or gaps in the pulp. After removing the frame from the water, let it drain. When it stops dripping, carefully lay the frame (pulp side down) onto a fabric square or an old dishcloth. Use the sponge to press out as much water as possible (wring excess water back into tub). This step may take some practice to master so be patient. Holding the fabric square flat, slowly lift up and remove the frame. The wet paper should remain on the fabric. If the paper sticks to the screen, you may have pulled too fast or not pressed enough water out of the paper. Once you successfully remove the frame, gently smooth out any noticeable air bubbles or rough edges. Keep repeating steps 4-6 and stack the fabric squares (or dish towels) on a cookie sheet. When finished, place a piece of cardboard on top of the last piece and use bricks or another cookie sheet to press out the remaining water in the stack. Gently separate sheets and dry them on a clothesline or out in the sun for 12-24 hours. When they are dry, gently separate the paper from the fabric squares (or dish towels). For great gifts, use cookie cutters or stencils to trace holiday shapes. Cut them out and attach a ribbon for thoughtful gifts that last beyond the holiday season. Other uses for home made paper include scrapbooks, stationary and note cards, journal or photo album covers, lampshades, etc. Don't forget to include the planting instructions! Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf70153501.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Growing Sunflowers in Containers Question: I live in an apartment, and would like to have sunflowers on my balcony. Do they do well in planters and if so, what's the best care for them? Thank you, Hardiness Zone: 7a Joanne from Whitestone, NY Answer: Joanne, Sunflowers do great in containers. In fact, container gardening has gotten so popular in the past few years that there are now literally dozens of varieties of sunflowers available that have been developed specifically for growing in containers (e.g. 'Big Smile', 'Italian White', 'Music Box', 'Elite Sun', etc.). Almost any variety can be grown successfully in containers, as long as you meet its growing conditions and provide it with a big enough pot. The really tall or mammoth varieties will likely need staking to remain upright in pots. Plant seeds in full sun, using a light potting soil or soil-less mix. Plant the seeds to a depth of 1 inch (6 inches apart) and expect to see them germinate quickly. Days to maturity will vary according to each variety. Seedlings of regular varieties will need to be thinned to 12 to 18 inches and given plenty of room to grow and spread out. Dwarf varieties can be packed in a little more closely together, but still need to be spaced at least 4 to 5 inches apart. Sunflower roots are quite large and like to spread out. Mammoth varieties grow best in half barrels or containers that are at least 66 to 18 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Smaller containers will keep plants from reaching their full growth potential. Sunflowers grown in containers need to be watered daily and even more frequently during really hot weather. Feed them a 1/2 strength water-soluble fertilizer every other week or so to support big blooms, and mulch around the tops of the containers to help conserve moisture. Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf58123063.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Harvesting Horseradish Question: When and how do I harvest horseradish? How do I prepare the root? I have searched for this for two years, and can't seem to find any information. Any input would be appreciated. Hardiness Zone: 7a Mary from Langhorne, PA Answer: Mary, Horseradish is ready to harvest when roots reach a length of 12 to 18 inches long. Depending on a person's gardening zone, roots are harvested in either the early spring or late fall while the plant is still actively growing. Many gardeners prefer to harvest only as much as they need at any one time because the intensity of the root's flavor tends to fade with storage. After digging out the roots, cut off the crown and remove any of the smaller side roots. Before you process the roots, mix 1 cup of water with 1 cup of vinegar and set it aside. To process the roots, scrub them thoroughly and use a potato peeler or small knife to pare off the outer skin. Cut out any hollow or dark spots and slice the root into small chunks. Use a food processor or hand grinder to grind down the chunks into a smaller size. This is strong stuff. If cutting onions makes you tear up slightly, horseradish roots will make you weep! The more coarsely you grind the roots the milder the end product will be. And here's where the vinegar comes in. As you grind down the roots you'll want to add some of the vinegar/water mixture to the ground horseradish. The enzymatic action of the vinegar stabilizes the horseradish and determines the final degree of heat. If you like less heat, add some vinegar right away. If you like a lot of heat, wait three minutes before adding it. You can vary the ratio of vinegar to water or substitute lemon juice for vinegar to vary the taste. Add mayo to create creamy horseradish. Pack in small jars and store in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 weeks. Roots can also be frozen, but will lose a bit of their flavor this way. Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf80473454.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print How do you grow mint in a pot? Question: How do you grow mint in a pot? Jordy from South Hedland, WA Answer: Jordy, Choose a fairly large container (1 to 5 gallons). You can purchase mint seedlings at a nursery and transplant them to larger pots when you get them home, acquire plants from through division from friends and relatives or start them from seed. Personally, unless you know someone who can give you a plant, I would recommend purchasing young plants at a nursery. More often than not, starting mint from seed proves to be a frustrating task for many people. Mint plants are not that fussy about soil and sun, but they'll give you their absolute best if you give them at least partial sun (full is best) and you grow them in fertile, well-drained soil. You didn't say whether or not you plan on growing them indoors or outside. They'll do well in either case. You can drop the pot right into the ground in your garden or set it in a bright area of your kitchen where it will be handy for cooking. Try and keep them consistently moist. Mint is quite drought tolerant, but they prefer to be kept consistently moist. When growing them in pots you'll need to monitor their moisture carefully and because soil nutrients will get washed away by frequent watering, feed them a 1/2 strength water soluble fertilizer every few weeks (fish emulsion or seaweed works well). Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf56232694.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Getting Rid of Slugs Natural remedies for slug prevention suggested by our ThriftyFun community. Post your own tips here. Drown Them Or Rough Them Up You can put out shallow pans of beer or grape juice. They are attracted to the yeast in the beer. I'm not sure why they like the grape juice but it's cheaper than beer. I've also read that you can use old sandpaper disks around the stem of the plant -- just cut a slit up to the center of the disk and put the disk on the ground around the stalk of the plant. You could also use crushed up eggshells around your plants. By luv2craft Eggshells The eggshell thing works great that luv2crafts talked about. It's natural and works great! I use them around my hostas. Just rinse out the egg shell and lay to dry on a paper towel. After they have dried, crush them up. I save these all winter long. After you have dried them, put them in an old coffee can and save for the springtime. If you are using mulch, make sure they are on top of the mulch. By Peg Coffee Grounds Try fresh, unused coffee grounds; spread it in a ring around the base of the plant; snails (and maybe slugs too) hate the caffeine. For ants: I've heard that a natural ant repellent is to use any spray cleanser that has orange oil in it. I've just tried it a couple of times, but it worked both times. Good luck By Lynn from Calif. Beer Place a bit of beer in a jar lid. It will attract the slugs. They'll drown in the beer and then are easy to dispose of. Hope this helps. It works for me! By Mairmie Oyster Shell I live in the slug capitol of the world, the Pacific Northwest. I heard on the radio this weekend that oyster shell is very good for them and cheap. You can buy a bag of it for feeding chickens (grit for their diet) at the feed store. It was suggested as an organic replacement for diatomaceous earth because here, the rain washes that away quickly. Oyster shell is in bigger pieces so easier to keep on top of the ground. By Susan from ThriftyFun English Tips and Tricks Thought I'd share some ideas from the England here. Beer in a dish (listed earlier) Search and destroy (squish em) Copper rings (it reacts with the slime and gives them an electric shock) Good old fashioned salt. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf43665413.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Making Concrete Patio Blocks How do you make concrete blocks? Advice from the ThriftyFun community. Using Buckets We just poured leftover concrete in buckets, had everyone sign and hand print one. When the concrete is dry, they come right out. We have used them as stepping stones for more than twenty years! By Tedebear Practical Experience With Concrete Stepping Blocks When we poured our sidewalks and mowing strips, what was left over, we made concrete stepping blocks. My kids made the forms out of old wood, square, and poured in the cement. We put some small gravel on top and pushed them in a little so they could be walked on. We have had them for over 20 years. We also used benderboard and made round ones. It actually was quite fun doing this and making our own designs on top. The square ones, we added cement dye and made them the color of the brick on our house and put the brick design on each one. In a couple days they were ready to use. Another thing that is good about using them as walkways and between places, is they can be picked up and moved if you change your landscaping. By Eletha Cole Rhubarb Leaf Stones I made stepping stones with imprints of my rhubarb leaves and they are still around 3 years later; even after Nova Scotia winters. Lay down plastic, lay down a good size leaf, messy but put cement on the leaf to cover not quite to the edges, put some chicken wire or some other type of reenforcement and more cement. Give some support with dirt around the form, cover with plastic and in 3-4 days VIOLA! Wash off any leaf that maybe left on the hardened stone, let set for a few days before using. By Streatch Lots Of Work A friend had the forms where she could make pretty shapes. They looked pretty but she said she would never do that again. Lots of work. By Sandy Do you have any tips for making your own concrete patio blocks? Post them below. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf87015297.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Contest! Tip Contest Submit a Tip or Recipe! Photo Contest Submit a tip with photo! The above contests are weekly. We pick 2 tip winners and 1 photo winner at the end of each week. Each winner will win $25! My Frugal Life Submit a My Frugal Life Essay! New Requests: Help With Growing Watermelons I have two questions about growing watermelon. We have a small watermelon growing in our garden. What do I do to protect it? I remember reading something about a milk jug, but don't remember the specifics. Also, how do I know when its ready to be picked? Hardiness Zone: 8b Thank you! Amy from Austin, Texas Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf50994192.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Advice For Tree With Small Sour Apricots Why does my apricot tree produce plenty of little sour rotten apricots each year? My nectarine tree puts on a few sweet fruits although they also get brown patches and curly leaves. Is this a fungus or a nutrient problem? I have other trees on the premises that do just fine. Does anyone have an answer on what I can do to save my fruit trees? Hardiness Zone: 10a Mikohelfer from Orange County, California Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf32538516.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Advice For Tree With Small Figs My fig trees are mature and have plenty of figs, but they are no bigger than a quarter for 1 1/2 months. Why? Hardiness Zone: 7a Joe from Port Chester, NY Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf87535240.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Advice For Night Blooming Cereus I have a wonderful night blooming cereus and as the blooms are growing (two inch tips) they turn black and do not bloom. Can anyone help me ? I would love to see it in it's full glory. Am I over watering it? Hardiness Zone: 9b Kathy from Land O Lakes, FL Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf60798758.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print What Is Eating Holes In My Leaves? Something is eating the leaves on my plants and leaving them looking like lace. Hardiness Zone: 9a Patricia from Carlsbad, California Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf11377362.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Gnats on Houseplants How do I get rid of house plant gnats? Hardiness Zone: 5b Kari from Libertyville, IL Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf949883.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Looking for a frugal solution to an everyday problem? Submit your request here: Click Here Today's Sponsor: Crafting for Fun and Money! If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish. More Information: Click Here: http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_craft.ldml More Stuff Seed Swap! Swap seeds with other ThriftyFun.com users. Submit a Request... Frugal solutions to everyday problems.