February 28, 2008

Happy Garden - February 28, 2008


Vol. 3, Num. 9, February 28, 2008 (Read It Online)

Ellen answers more of you questions this week! Do you have a gardening question for Ellen and the ThriftyFun community? Submit it here:

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Thanks for reading,

Susan

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Growing Geranium Seeds

Question:

I have what I think are seeds growing on my pink geranium. I have been letting them turn brown and then gently removing them and storing these in a paper bag in a dark dry spot.

Do I test these in the same manner as most seeds to see if they are going to germinate? When would I put these outside? Should I start them inside first?

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Kelly from Western North Carolina

Answer:

Hi Kelly,

You didn't mention whether or not your geraniums were the hardy, or non - hardy type, but both can be germinated and started indoors. Geraniums are programmed to 'launch' their seeds at maturity, and can be notoriously difficult to collect. First, make sure that the dry, brown plant material you have been saving still contains the actual seeds. The seeds themselves are oblong or corkscrew - shaped and are inside husks that are attached to feathery tails. In the future, a fail - safe way to capture them is to cover the flowers with muslin to catch the seeds as they launch.

Try starting both hardy and non - hardy geranium (Pelargonium) seeds using the following method, keeping in mind that hardy geraniums may also benefit from cold treating in order to coax them into germinating.

Start by placing the seeds on a moistened paper towel to hold them in place. It will be easier for you later if you line them up facing the same direction - pointy side down. Then using a needle, carefully scratch a line down the middle each seed case from top to bottom. You don't want the cut too deep, but just deep enough to penetrate the hard casing. After scoring the seeds, place the moistened paper towel in a dish or plastic container and cover it with plastic wrap. Use a spray bottle to mist the paper towel, making sure that both the paper towel and the seeds are thoroughly saturated with water. Put the container in a dark place that is about 75ºF.

If the seed casings have been scratched deep enough, within 3 - 4 hours of scoring they will absorb enough of the moisture in the dish to split open their casings. If after that time they are still hard, you may need to scratch them again. Monitor the seeds over the next 24 - 48 hours, moistening the paper towels with a spray bottle and once split, gently removing the seed casings to allow for unrestricted growth.

During this time, you'll be able to easily identify non - viable seeds when they turn soft and start to smell rancid. Discard these. Once the sprout is about 1.5 cm in length and you can see signs of tiny leaves opening out (usually around 7 - 10 days), transfer them to a pot filled with a seed - starting medium or light potting soil. Use the tip of a pencil to make a tiny indentation to drop the 'rootlet' into. Gently surround it with the potting medium and moisten the area with a spray bottle. You can also bypass the viability test and sow seeds directly into pots without scoring, covering them with 1/8 inch of moist soil. Expect germination to take longer, and your success rate to be lower.

Continue to grow indoors in bright light or under fluorescent lights. Harden them off for 7 - 10 days before transferring outdoors (as soon as danger of frost has passed).

Geraniums are slow growing, so patience is necessary. They can take as long as 15 weeks to flower after sowing.

Good luck!

Ellen

Growing Geranium Seeds

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African Violets Infested with Insects

Question:

I have been having a problem with my African Violets for months now and have actually lost some. I have some kind of spider or bug that you can't really see but there are tiny cottony white spots all over the plant stems and a few on the leaves. I have tried the normal insect spray and also dipping them into liquid dish detergent and nothing seems to work. Please help me, I don't want to lose any more of them. I only have a few left.

Diane from Pingree, ID

Answer:

Diane,

It sounds like you have a bad infestation of mealy bugs. These tiny, sucking bugs are covered with a white wax that gives them the appearance of cottony white spots on your plants. This wax is tough to penetrate, and usually requires a special spray designed specifically for mealy bug control, or the use of alcohol over a period of days in order to kill the eggs and larvae.

First, isolate all of your violets that appear affected to avoid spreading the infestation to healthy plants. Try gently swabbing affected leaves and steams with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. You will need to do this daily for 3 - 4 days to make sure you kill off the eggs and emerging larvae. Another method is to dip leaves in a 1:3 solution of Clorox and water. Worst - case scenario, you can also consider clipping off infected leaves or cutting plants back almost to soil level.

If despite your best efforts your violets still seem to be losing the battle, consider cutting some healthy leaves from your remaining plants (or crown cuttings) and starting a new collection before discarding your infected plants. Just make sure you watch new growth carefully for signs of new infestations. When mealy bugs appear primarily near the stems of your African violets, they may be the soil - born variety, which can suddenly appear out of nowhere months after bringing home a perfectly healthy looking plant. That is why whenever purchasing a new plant, I recommend isolating it for a period of months to make sure it is 'clean' before moving near other houseplants.

Good luck!

Ellen

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Rooting a Hibiscus from a Larger Plant

Question:

Does anyone out there know how to or if it is even possible to root a hibiscus from a large hibiscus that I have?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Barbara from Philadelphia, PA

Answer:

Barbara,

Not only is it possible, but some varieties actually root quite easily. Start with woody cuttings that are about the size of a pencil in both length and diameter. Remove all but one or two of the leaves at the top - these leaves will help with the transpiration process as the roots develop. At the bottom of the cutting either scrape away some of the bark or simply make a small slanted cut through a leaf node (eye). This will make it easier for developing roots to emerge. When taking your cutting from the mother plant, it is a good idea to cut it at an angle above a leaf node that is facing out so that when new growth resumes, it does so in an outwardly direction.

Hibiscus cuttings seem to root better when crowded together in a pot, so I encourage you to find a gallon - sized pot and try rooting several at one time. This will also increase your chances for success. Use a lightweight mixture of moist perlite and sand as your medium. Before inserting your cuttings into the pot, use a pencil to pre - drill" holes. Then dip the bottom of each cutting in some rooting hormone and insert them into the holes. Optimum temperatures for rooting are 60 - 70ºF. Hibiscus like a high degree of humidity so either mist the cuttings regularly or cover the pots with plastic bags. Just be sure not to bake them in the sun. Keep the pot of cuttings moist and in partial/filtered sun for about 6 - 8 weeks. Once the roots have developed, remove the cuttings carefully and repot in single pots.

Good luck!

Ellen

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Growing a Tree Sized Pointsettia

Question:

Does anyone know how to grow a poinsettia to tree size (about 5 feet)? I've seen these in stores and they really don't cost that much. The problem is getting it home. They break so easily as it is, they will never survive being crammed into my tiny car. I don't know anyone who could lend me a truck or van. Do you need a certain kind of Poinsettia (fast growing?) for these?

Curious Cat from South Norfolk, VA

Answer:

Curious Cat,

Frugalsunnie (see post in feedback forum) has provided you with some excellent information on growing Poinsettias, so I have very little to add. I will say, however, that my limited understanding of 'Poinsettia Tree Production' (which I have personally never tried) comes from a technical bulletin produced by the Paul Ecke Ranch, in Encinitas, California. They are undoubtedly one of the largest (if not THE largest) producers of poinsettias in the United States.

According to the bulletin, certain poinsettia cultivars are indeed much better adapted to producing high quality trees due to their tree - like characteristics - large bracts (leaves) and strong stems. Which ones exactly, I don't know. The ultimate height and shape of a poinsettia tree is also directly dependent on the amount of growing time before what industry growers call the 'first pinch' (a.k.a the first pruning). Apparently, poinsettia trees can be double or triple pinched depending on the final size and shape desired. As an example, producing a 4 - 5 foot poinsettia tree with a lollipop shape requires planting your root cuttings in April, pinching/pruning them for the first time in July, for a second time in August and again for a third time in September. None of this pinching/pruning has anything to do with color production. As Frugalsunnie mentioned, that requires additional attention to light cycles.

None of this information is meant to deter you from trying this on your own, but rather just some interesting information I ran across while visiting their web site: http://www.ecke.com/new1/.

Good luck!

Ellen

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Making Glittered, Colored Poinsettias

Question:

I love those glitter covered, colored poinsettias. Last Christmas they were $4.99, this past Christmas the price went up to $15.99, OUTRAGEOUS! Does anyone know how to make these at home? I tried spray glitter but very little stuck. I don't know what kind of paint to use that would not kill the plant. I know the color is something applied because new growth comes in green.

Curious Cat from South Norfolk, VA

Answer:

Curious Cat,

Try your local craft store, any discount store with a floral department, or search the web for floral supply companies. They should all sell the non - toxic spray glues and colored flower paints that florists use to dress up poinsettias around the holidays. The glitter is nothing specific, just plain old glitter in the color of your choice.

If you plan on keeping your poinsettia longer than a few weeks, you are better off looking for a variety that has been bred to have color, rather then one that has been painted or dressed up in glitter (both interfere with the respiration and transpiration of the plant). Once covered in glitter or paint, the dressed up plants won't live longer than a couple of weeks, no matter how 'non - toxic' the glue is. Or, to extend its life, you might also consider leaving your poinsettia natural for Christmas and then dressing it up for New Years with some silver glitter.

A few years back I remember the arrival of lime green cultivars and then the next year suddenly blue became the 'it' color. This year (around here) it was natural harvest colors and 'Barney' purple with gold glitter. Poinsettias are long - lasting, so the cultivars bred in harvest colors made a wonderful (and practical) addition to our Thanksgiving décor. Will crazy - colored Easter lilies (pink, baby blue, yellow?) appear in the stores for spring?

Have fun!

Ellen

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Newspaper Pots

I take a large Foldgers coffee can and put a folded sheet of newspaper over the top, I then take a smaller coffee can and gently push the paper inside to form the pot, making sure that the sides are folded in as I go along. Be careful when pushing it in as the bottom will tear if you push too hard on the can.

By Amy from Evansdale, IA

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What is this plant? (Pleomele relexa "Song of Jamaica")

Question:

I have a large plant that I wanted to identify. I thought it might be some kind of Dracaena? What is it?

Hardiness Zone: 4a

Mary from Long Valley, NJ

Answer:

Mary,

I can't be absolutely certain, but from the picture you submitted, this plant looks like a Pleomele relexa "Song of Jamaica" to me. As you suspected, 'Song of Jamaica' is a member of the Dracaena family. There are two very similar varieties - 'Song of India' and the 'Malaysian Dracaena.' The first has variegated leaves and the second more spiked - shaped leaves. All are easy - to - care for houseplants originally native to Madagascar and the Solomon Islands. Care instructions for these houseplants are simple. Give them normal indoor temps (protect them from cold), access to decent light, water them once every two weeks or so, and provide them with a liquid fertilizer periodically during the active growing months (April - September). Although they prefer higher humidity, they are tolerant of drier air. The one thing Dracaenas are susceptible to is root rot, so water them carefully and use a light soil that drains well. Yours looks like it is doing wonderfully!

Ellen

What is this plant? (Pleomele relexa "Song of Jamaica")

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Contest!

The above contests are weekly. We pick 2 tip winners and 1 photo winner at the end of each week. Each winner will win $25!

New Requests:

Why Do Oranges Fall Before They Are Ripe?

Why do oranges fall from the tree before they are fully ripe?

Hardiness Zone: 9b

Salvador from Brownsville, TX

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Entwining Woody Hibiscus Stems

Does anyone know how to entwine woody hibiscus stems? I started the plants, but don't know when or how to do this.

Hardiness Zone: 4a

Bernette from WI

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Planting Bulbs In The Spring

Can I plant tulip bulbs in the Spring? Will they rot?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Teresa from Burgaw, NC

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How Do I Care for an Orchid?

Does anyone know how to care for orchids? I got one as a gift a couple of days ago. It's beautiful, dark pink flowers, and it almost reaches my waist. I just don't know how to care for it.

Auntie Sandi from Montreal, Quebec

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White Mold Growing on Plant Soil

Several of my houseplants have developed a white mold on the soil. What would cause this, and what can I do? I water my plants once a week, and they have good south sun. I also took someone's advice and have dumped coffee grounds on some of the pots. This has happened on the geraniums and other plants as well. Thanks in advance!

Kim from Crawford, CO

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Storing Used Coffee Grounds Until Spring

I have been saving used coffee grounds for the garden. However, we live in the Midwest, so I need to store them until Spring. How do I store them so they don't get moldy?

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Michelle from Milwaukee, WI

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Potted Rose Bush Losing It's Leaves

My husband bought me a potted rose bush with baby roses on it. It is, of course, in the house, as we live in Iowa and it is WAY too cold to put outside. My concern is that it is dropping almost all of it's leaves. Not sure why. They just seem to be drying up and dropping off. I try to keep it watered, but maybe I'm not enough? Maybe too much?

Also, the rose buds that had not opened when I got it have dried up and definitely will not be opening up now. This is my first rose bush and I really want it to survive. Can anyone give me any tips on how to properly care for it? We keep our house fairly cool, at 60 degrees, but according to the information on the pot, they grow best between 60 and 80 degrees.

I am also keeping it where it can get the best benefit of the sun. My house isn't super light, but it's not dark either. I keep it in front of windows, but several feet back from the window so it won't get too cold. Thanks ahead of time for any advice anyone can give me.

Robin from Washington, IA

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Roses Losing Petals Quickly

I planted my first rose flower this month and it went quite well, with all the banana peels and coffee grounds. But after they bloomed, they only lasted for 2-3 days at most then the petals started to drop. I don't want to lose my flowers so soon, they smell so good.

Is there anything I can do to make them last longer ? I plant my roses using pots because of the limited space. So, even just 1 or 2 blooms, they are special to me and I really wanted to enjoy them longer. Btw, what's the name of this kind of rose ?

Hardiness Zone: 11

Susan from Surabaya, Indonesia

Roses Losing Petals Quickly

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