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Circular saws have become more than a tool that you will just find at a construction site. From the early days of work on construction sites cutting only wood circular saws now are found in almost every home of a do-it-yourselfer and can cut not only wood but with the purchase of some specialty blades can now cut wood, masonry, metal and plastic.
Circular saws are available in all types of shapes, sizes and configurations. There are the 4-1/2 inch panel saws all the way up to a 16-1/2 inch model. As I am sure you know the size of a circular saw is determined by the blade size. The circular saw that is most common and found most often in the home and shop is the 7-1/2 inch.
Most circular saws have the blade right mounted but there are some manufactures that make a saw with the blade left mounted. If you are right handed you may prefer this configuration but a disadvantage is that the body of the base is resting on the side of the cut that is usually scrap and falls off after being cut. Which type saw you buy or own will be strictly a matter of personal preference?
A Quick Buying Guide:
There are circular saws in just about every price range you can think of. I have seen saws for as little as $25.00 and as high as $350.00. However, a good saw can be purchased in the $125.00 to $150.00 price range. It might not be a bad idea to keep one of the cheaper models around to use on jobs that will generate a lot of abrasive material like cutting pavers or bricks. Before you spend that kind of money on a new circular saw it might be worth your while to buzz on down to the local home improvement center and browse through their selection. Pick each one up hold it see how it feels in your hands. Are you comfortable with it? If you pick a saw that is somewhere in the price range mentioned above you usually can't go wrong.
Here are some things you may want to look for on a new saw that will help you determine if you are buying a cheap saw or not.
- A solid base will stabilize the saw and give more precise and accurate cuts.
- Adjustment mechanism that will allow you to square the blade.
- Blade lock out to make blade changing easier.
- Good quality motor bearings for smooth cuts and long lasting life.
- Depth adjustment system that is easy to use and accurate.
- A custom carrying case for extra blade storage, wrench storage and saw protection.
If a saw has most of these features you will usually find that you are getting a good quality saw for your money.
Easy to use guides for cutting with a circular saw:
The most accurate way to make a cut with a circular saw is to use a straightedge. They come in a variety of lengths. A 54 inch model is good for cross cuts on a 4x8 panel and a 100 inch length can be use for 8 foot lengths. Most of these are aluminum and some even have a clamping system built in. If you are going to be doing work such as making cabinets and need to make long accurate cuts then this is the method to use.
A lot of saws come with rip guides but if yours does not have one there are a number of them available that are of the universal type and can be used on most brands and models of saws. They will usually fall in the $8.00 to $20.00 range but are a good way to make rip cuts up to a foot wide.
Another method for making rip cuts that are only 3 or 4 inches wide is to grab the base plate with your free hand and use your thumb and index finger as a guide. Of course you can acquire a splinter or two with this method and it is not extremely accurate.
A little circular saw safety:
After talking, reading and checking around you will find that the number one accident using a circular saw is because of kickback. This results because the blade that is rotating in a counter clock wise direction usually gets pinched and because of that counter clock wise rotation will jump up and back. This will happen far faster than you can release that on/off switch.
Another common mistake that is made by experience as will as novices is not properly supporting the work that is being cut. If you are cutting a board that is suspended between saw horses for instance, the board will start to sag as you cut through it. The board will pinch the blade and presto a good case of kickback. Just remember to always support the wood that you are removing if you are cutting longer pieces or make sure it can fall away easily if you are cutting a short piece.
A sharp blade will always reduce the chance for kickback and will make smoother as well as straighter cuts.
Keep all factory safety equipment in place. DO NOT disable blade guards.
Keep your hands from behind the saw when cutting. As we said before, a kickback will take place at lighting speed and you will never get your hand out of the way in time.
In conjunction with the previous suggestion or time always stand to the side when cutting for the same reasons as before.
When making adjustments for blade depth make sure you have unplugged your saw to avoid an accidental tripping of the trigger.
Make sure when changing blades that you also have the saw unplugged.
A circular saw is loud and sprays a lot of sawdust and chips so wear eye protection as well as hearing protection.
When ever possible do not use a circular saw while on a ladder.
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