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The Happy Garden Newsletter - May 18, 2006

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Date: 05/18/2006 Topic: Newsletter Archives > Happy Garden Newsletter  
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Volume 1, Number 17, May 18, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com

Hello,

I hope everyone is having success in their garden. I am in the process of preparing for a move, it's always difficult to decide which plants to leave and which ones to bring with me.

Happy Gardening,

Susan

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Today's newsletter contains:

Today's Photos:

Today's Tips and Articles:

New Requests:

Growing Guides:

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Today's Photos

Lovely Lava Rock Filter for Your Pond

Fill a barrel with lava rock and use that as your filter for your pond. Your water will stay cleaner longer.

Pond Filter - Barrel with Lava Rocks

By Teresa from Spencer, WI

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Stone Garden Markers
By Christine Weber

Natural looking yet practical plant identifiers, easy to make and waterproof to boot!

Stone Garden Market

Materials and Equipment:

  • a large, relatively flat smooth stone, at least 3 or more inches in diameter
  • a Sharpie waterproof marker

Instructions:

1. Before you start, clean and dry your stone completely.

2. In attractive script (you may want to practice first on a piece of paper) write the common name or the scientific name of the plant you want the marker to identify.

3. Allow the ink to dry completely before placing it in the garden. The marker is waterproof, but if it is placed in a sunny location, you may want to redo your marker after a year of two. Fortunately they are quick and cheap to make!

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Today's Tips and Articles

Lilac Bush Not Blooming

Q: I have a lilac bush that has never bloomed. I have had it for 10 years, it gets green leaves and that is all. I have cut it back as I was told to do but still don't get any blooms. Please reply with anything you think may help.

I am in zone 6

Thank-you,
JMS

A: JMS,

You can try using the process of elimination. There are five main reasons that lilacs fail to bloom: insufficient sunlight, too much nitrogen fertilizer, improper planting (planted too deeply), improper pruning (pruning at the wrong time) or winterkill of the flower buds. If you are fertilizing your bushes (or near your bushes), stop. Lilacs set their flower buds for next year on this year's growth. If you pruned them last season in late summer-say late July or August-you may have removed the flower buds for this growing season. Also, lilacs will typically not bloom the season after a harsh pruning, so you may need to wait until next year before you see flowers. If you suspect winter damage to your flower buds, you can only hope for milder winters or plant a hardier variety. Pulling some soil back from the roots will help if you think it may be planted too deeply. Lilacs need full sun to flower. You might take a sucker from your lilac bush and try growing it in a new location.

Ellen


Q: I have lilac bush a friend gave me. I planted it 9 years ago and it has never bloomed. Please help. I don't know what to do.

Hardiness Zone: 5b
Cheryl Hubbard from Missouri

A: Cheryl,

There are several reasons lilacs don't bloom. The most common problem is a lack of sunlight. In order to bloom, lilac bushes need at least 6 hours of sun per day. If your lawn (or your neighbor's lawn near your lilacs) is frequently fertilized, your lilacs may also be getting too much nitrogen. Nitrogen promotes lush foliage, while inhibiting flowering. When planted in decent soil, lilacs usually do just fine without fertilizing. If they need it, use a fertilizer with a high ratio of nitrogen (second number) and apply it in the early spring. Organic sources include bone meal and fish emulsion. Incorrect pruning is another common problem. Pruning should be done no later than mid summer (July) or you risk cutting off next years flowers. You may have also planted your lilacs too deeply. If you think this might be the case, pull back some of the soil so the tops of the roots are slightly exposed. Also, you don't mention what type of lilacs you're growing. Common lilacs need cold winters in order to set their flower buds, but these same cold winters can kill the buds of less hardy varieties. Finally, lilacs prefer slightly alkaline soil (pH 6 to 7). Having your soil tested is the only way to know whether or not it's too acidic.

Hope this helps!

Ellen

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Finding Mulch for Your Garden

Mulch can do so much to make a garden look fine, but it's so expensive! I've found that a request on your local FreeCycle group (www.freecycle.org), will work wonders. There is almost always someone in your area who has had a tree cut down and chipped and wants to get rid of the chippings.

By Louise from Dayton, KY

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Plumeria Not Blooming

Q: I have three (3) Plumeria or Frangipani, two I brought back from Hawaii and the other I rescued from a neighbor's trash. None of them have ever bloomed. There are some in the neighborhood and they are in bloom now. I fertilized with "red" dynamite and still nothing happened to them. What can I do to help them?

Hardiness Zone: 9b
Christy P from Jupiter, FL

A: Christy,

I would start with a process of elimination. Are you meeting all of your Plumeria's needs? Start with good, well-drained potting soil and lots of sunlight. Plumeria is unlikely to bloom when kept indoors, as it needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. I assume your growing your in containers and will be moving them indoors in the winter. Water your Plumeria as necessary, deeply, but not necessarily frequently. Plumeria stems store water for a period of time, so be careful not to overwater. Let the soil dry out just a bit between watering. If you are using Dynamite fertilizer in the red canister (commonly found at Home Depots and other large home centers), you might want to switch. That is a balanced slow-release fertilizer and you may need something with a higher ratio of phosphorus (the second number, e.g. 13-13-13) to promote flowering. Also, if these plants are young (1-2 years old) they may need more time to develop before flowering. Be patient, it will happen eventually. Good Luck!

Ellen

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A Guide to Planting Trees
By Ellen Brown

Spring and fall are the optimum seasons for planting trees. And although all newly planted trees experience some transplant stress, proper planting techniques can minimize the stress and get your trees off to a healthy, vigorous start.

Read This Article: Click Here

Tea Rose With Mold

Q: I have a tea rose that has a white fuzz around the buds. It looks like mold. What can I do to correct and fix this problem? Hardiness Zone: 8b

Jana from las Vegas, NV

A: Jana,

What your describing sounds like powdery mildew, a fungal disease common to all types of roses. Roses from the Rugosa family are best at resisting the disease. It's best to get this under control, because if conditions persist, powdery mildew can spread rapidly throughout your garden. There are several conditions that encourage mildew to form, including the warm days and cold nights of spring. Poor air circulation around the plants is another factor. When the surface of the leaves get wet and remains wet, mildew spores start to germinate. You can improve air circulation around the leaves by opening up the center of the plant with pruning. Other conditions that encourage powdery mildew include dripping condensation from overhangs, over crowding and dehydration.

Fungicidal soaps are readily available at nurseries and garden centers, or you can make your own using the following recipe.

In a large bucket or pail, mix the following ingredient together in the order listed: 1 tbsp vegetable oil , 1 gallon of distilled water, 1 tsp of mouthwash (not mint flavored) , 1 tbsp liquid soap , 1 _ tbsp baking soda and 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar. Stir the mixture and transfer it into a spray bottle. Spray your rose plants thoroughly and reapply as needed after rain.

Good Luck!
Ellen

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"The Budget Gardener" by Maureen Gilmer - 5-Star Frugal Gardening Book

If you love gardening, but don't want to spend all your savings on keeping everything blooming, this is the book for you. It will tell you everything you need to know about gardening and landscaping beautifully on the cheap.

It's called: "The Budget Gardener"
by Maureen Gilmer

By Marnita from Cumming GA

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Using a Pond to Water My Garden

Q: I have a 50' x 100' vegetable garden that is about 100' from my pond and I would love ideas on how to use the pond to water the garden. Any ideas appreciated!

Hardiness Zone: 5b
Lauren from Missouri

A: Lauren,

You don't mention whether or not your pond is manmade, or occurs on your property naturally. I'll assume because your garden is large, it's natural. I would rig up a gravity flow siphoning system using PVC pipe or garden hose. The pipes should be fitted with valves to control water flow. If your garden is even with, or at an uphill slope from your pond, you can use a submersible pump. Keep in mind that pumps can be expensive, and if they fail, some types may release oil and coolants into the water. There are several great options on the market, including solar-powered units and pumps with magnetic-drives that avoid the use of coolants. You'll need to do a little research to determine the size pipe and pumps you'll need to get the flow rate you want. A local farm supply store or large garden center should be able to help you with that.

Water from smaller, backyard ponds can also be used in the garden. Just be careful if you treat your pond with chemicals, to not use it to water or fertilize your garden edibles.

Ellen

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Hardening-Off: Preparing Your Seedlings for the Real World
By Ellen Brown

If you have started plants from seed this year, you've worked hard to provide your seedlings with the right light, moisture and temperature. They're green, growing vigorously and you're proud of them. Unfortunately, because you've always done everything for them, they aren't prepared for the real world. So before you transplant them into the outdoor environment of your garden, show them some tough love and harden them off.

The science behind hardening-off is pretty simple. In some ways it seems analogous to child psychology. By starting your seeds indoors and spoiling them rotten with the perfect growing conditions, they grow up unprepared for the real world and fail miserably at adapting to live in the garden.

Read This Article: Click Here

Growing Strawberries in Containers

Q: I live in Oregon, in the valley, rain and sun! I am wanting to container garden strawberries. I have some ripe ones from the store, can you start them this way? I know they take a "bed", but I have seen some varieties in containers on patios. My patio gets full sun from the morning to mid afternoon. Any advice would be appreciative, especially for containers because my yard space is cramped with other trees and lawn.

Hardiness Zone: 7a

Thank you!
Camo_angels from Willamina, OR

A: Camo_angels,

Many varieties of strawberries grow wonderfully in containers, including barrels, drums or bags. Many seed companies and garden centers offer pouches or bags, complete with plants, for growing them vertically on walls and fences. Personally, I like them in hanging baskets. With their green leaves, red fruit and delicate white flowers, they're actually quite pretty. And when the juicy red fruits cascade down the sides of the basket, they are practically screaming for you to come over the pick them. Like the growing bags, baskets save on patio space and keep the fruit up off the ground and away from mold, insects and birds (mostly). Another idea is to grow them in planter boxes attached to railings or under sunny windows.

When planting in containers, use a well drained potting soil mix and plant the crowns 10 to 12 inches apart. Keep the developing runners pruned the first season to focus the plant's energy on bearing fruit. You can also remove the first set of blossoms to boost the plants size if necessary. Keep your strawberries moist (not wet) and plan on fertilizing them regularly (organic fertilizers include bone meal, fish emulsion and blood meal). Strawberries grown in containers are usually treated like annuals and discarded at the end of each season, but if protected over winter, they may last a few seasons before production falls off.

Ellen

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Preventing Stormwater Runoff Pollution
By Ellen Brown

Spring is here and that means runoff. Precipitation from melting snow and spring rains that does not naturally soak into the ground flows across impervious surfaces like our rooftops, driveways, sidewalks and streets and picks up a variety of potentially polluting materials along the way. The water then makes its way into our storm sewer systems and is eventually discharged into nearby lakes, rivers, wetlands and waterways. Because stormwater isn't treated before being discharged into these bodies of water, the best way to prevent runoff pollution is to eliminate it at the source.

Read This Article: Click Here

Contest!

Submit Your Tips and Photos!

Tip Contest!

To enter, visit: http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_contest.ldml

Photo Contest!

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Contests are now weekly. We'll pick 2 tip winners and 1 photo winner at the end of each week.

New Requests

Cutting Back a Yellow Trumpet Vine

My yellow trumpet vine has never flowered after a few years. I just read your advice to cut it way back before it gets its leaves. Is it too late to do it now? I trimmed some of the longer branches, but it is starting to get leaves. Can I still cut it way back?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Thanks,
Patty from Pine Bush, NY

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What Size Pot Does My Weeping Willow Need?

I have a weeping willow tree that is about 1 foot tall right now and I want to know how long I can leave it in a pot and what size pot it needs. It currently is in a 1 gallon nursery pot. i would appreciate advice.

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Thanks,
Sue from Centralia, WA

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Natural Weed Control

When I moved into my house in 2000, I had a flawless St. Augustine yard. I choose not to use chemicals so I am looking for a natural recipe or product that will kill weeds and not my grass. The grass is thatchy and has browning spots with more and more weeds every year. I only have used Hasta Gro Lawn Feed so far. It helps some but my yard is getting uglier every year.

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Saradise from Waco, Texas

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Weeping Cherry Has Small Leaves

We relocated a 10-12 ft weeping cherry tree about a month or so ago. It did have buds when it was moved, and they did bloom, but they weren't covering every branch. Now, it has leaves, but they are TINY and and also not around every branch. I did edge and mulch around the tree recently, thinking it would help to keep moisture in. The tree recieves full sun, and the soil is well drained. Is my tree dying?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Rebecca Knepp from Limerick, PA

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Keeping Cats out of the Garden

How can I keep the neighboor's cat out of my garden?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Windella from Pasadena, CA

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Bugs on Burning Bush

I have a bug problem and no idea what they are. I have a Burning Bush, now 3 years old. I found what looks like black aphid looking bugs. They are very sticky and the black ants are all over where they are. The growth that they are on looks wilted. I have cut off all the bad parts but they come back. I am looking for a natural way to rid of them because the bush is near our garlic. Does anyone know what these are, the cause of them, how to rid of them?

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Thank you,
Countrygal from New Castle, PA

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Getting Seeds from Collard Greens

I am growing collard greens and have many, many plants. I pick and cook the leaves regularly. Recently, I have noticed that 3 of my collard plants have began to go to seed and have beautifully yellow blooms from the seeds. How do I get these seeds and plant them so they can make more collard green plants? Is it too late after the blooms develop or can I cut of the bloom with stem and plant in the dirt? Please help.

Thanks,
Sheryl

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Leaves in Our Vegetable Garden are Turning Yellow

Leaves in vegetable garden are turning yellow. Will colder mornings turn the leaves yellow, or is this a soil problem? Plants include tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and pumpkins.

Hardiness Zone: 7a

Keever from Salt Lake city, Utah

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Planting Food in Creosote Logs

My mom and I are planting a garden. She has some old creosote logs about 40 years old. Is it ok to plant strawberries in the holes of the logs? I don't want anyone to get sick on strawberry short cake.

Hardiness Zone: 9a

Bryan from Longview WA

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Plants That Can Survive Near a Black Walnut Tree

I am wondering about other folks who might be dealing with black walnut trees. Has anyone found anything that grew well around them? I've researched a lot but was wondering about some additional plants that might work.

Hardiness Zone: 5b

Kathy from Buffalo, NY

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Keeping Skunks Out of My Yard

How can I keep a skunk out of my yard? I see it daily in day light!

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Windella from Pasadena, CA

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Looking for a frugal solution to an everyday problem? Submit your request here: Click Here

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Growing Guides

Growing: Primrose
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Purchase plants in spring or grow from seeds sown in pots in early spring or fall. If plants start to lose vigor they probably need to be divided. Once their flowering period starts to end, dig up and divide crowded plants. Primrose can also be propagated by rooting side rosettes that appear after flowering. Self-sown seedlings of hybrids are unlikely to produce desired offspring.
Interesting Facts: Primrose tends to be deer resistant. As a whole, many in the Primula genus, including cowslip, are known for their medicinal properties.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Rudbeckia
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Purchase plants in spring or start them from seeds sown directly into the garden in the spring or fall. Seeds can also be sown in pots in early spring or fall and set outdoors in a protected location. The exception is Gloriosa seeds. They should be sown either several weeks before the last frost if sown indoors, or two weeks before the last frost date if sown outdoors. Press seeds gently into the soil, but don't cover them. They need light to germinate. Once established, plants are quite drought tolerant and readily reseed themselves. Biennial varieties tend to alternate weak and showy years.
Interesting Facts: Rudbeckia are Native American wildflowers and are wonderful for attracting birds such as chickadees cardinals, sparrows and nuthatches.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Rhodoendrons (and Azaleas)
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Spring and fall are the best times to purchase and plant azalea and rhododendron clumps. If you buy whole balled or burlap wrapped plants, late summer is the best time for planting. You can grow both of these plants from 4 " cuttings taken in late spring and early summer. Dip cuttings in a rooting hormone, insert them into a moist propagating mix and cover them with plastic, making a mini greenhouse supported with bent wire. Keep cuttings moist and out of direct sun until they root (weeks or months). Remove plastic, harden them off and transplant them. The best sites for azaleas and rhododendrons are sites with loose, hummus-rich soil that is evenly moist and has a pH of 4.5 to 6.5. Pruning should be done immediately after flowering. Do not plant near walnut trees.
Interesting Facts: Rhododendrons have 10 or more stamens, bell-shaped flowers, and leaves that are usually evergreen, while azaleas have 5 stamens, funnel-shaped flowers, and deciduous leaves. Gardeners see these as two different plants, but botanists lump them into one genus (group).

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Sedum
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Sedums come in a variety of types-from groundcovers to tall standing mounds. Start with one or two purchased plants and plan on propagating additional plants by division and cuttings. Sedums dislike wet feet so root cuttings in a well-drained medium of 50-50 vermiculite and perlite. Creeping varieties do not need to be rooted. Simply pull off a piece and pat it down in the soil where you want it to grow. Low-growing types spread quickly and make excellent ground covers.
Interesting Facts: Sedums also grow well as houseplants as long as they get 4 or more hours per day of direct sunlight or 12 to 16 hours of strong artificial light.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Scabiosa (Pincushion Flowers)
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Purchase plants or start from seeds sown indoors a few weeks before your last frost date or sow them directly into the garden after the danger of frost has passed. Scabiosa is a low maintenance plant, but does not tolerate soggy soil-especially during the winter. Make sure your plants have proper drainage. If you have heavy soil, grow them in raised beds or improve soil drainage before planting. Divide clumps of plants every two to four years to prevent crowding.
Interesting Facts: Scabiosa is deer resistant and attractive to butterflies

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Ranunculus
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Claw-shaped ranunculus tubers come in different grades (sizes). The largest and most popular are called jumbos. They are 2 _ to 3 1/8 centimeters in circumference and will produce up to 35 flowers per bulb. Spring-planted ranunculus will bloom in June or July. Plant bulbs with the "claw" facing down 1 to 2 inches deep and space each tuber 8 to 12 inches apart. Unless ideal soil conditions can be met, tubers should be dug up and stored until the next season.
Interesting Facts: Ranunculus is said to contain medicinal properties to treat blisters, bronchitis, skin conditions and rheumatism.

More Growing Information: Click Here

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