ThriftyFun Logo
Home   Find   Ask   Share   Answer   Join   Index   Login  
 
 User Login:  Username:    Password:      Forgot It?  | Join ThriftyFun!

 - Beauty
 - Budget and Finance
 - Cleaning
 - Consumer Advice
 - Craft Projects
 - Craft Tips
 - Food Tips
 - Garage Sales
 - Gardening
 - Gifts
 - Green Living
 - Home Improvement
 - Organizing
 - Parenting
 - Parties
 - Pest Control
 - Pets
 - Product Reviews
 - Recipes
 - Repair
 - Weddings for Less

RSS Feed
About Us
Media
Advertising
Contact Us
Privacy Statement
Disclaimer

Transplanting Spy Apple Plants

By Ellen Brown
1x1
Date: 06/07/2006 Topics: Gardening > Transplanting | Readers Request > Gardening  
1x1
Post Feedback | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Print | Print (With Feedback) | Rate: Thumbs Up Thumbs Down | Bookmark and Share
Q: I have just obtained two Spy Apple plants. They are about three feet in height in the pots. Please advise me on transplanting.

Hardiness Zone: 7a

Damann from Brooklyn, New York

A: Damann,

Ideally, apple trees (all trees) should be transplanted in the early spring or late fall when they are in a dormant state in order to minimize transplant shock. As long as you take time to ensure the young trees get off to a good start, however, they can be planted now and will still do just fine.

To plant your Spy Apple trees, select a site with well-drained soil that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of sun per day. For each tree, dig a saucershaped hole 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball, and at least 18 inches deep-or no deeper than you intend to plant the tree. Gently remove the tree from the container and shake off about half the soil from the roots and position it in the hole. If the tree's roots are pot bound, make vertical slices each quarter around the soil ball and score the bottom with an X. Continue to plant as normal. Backfill the hole if necessary to bring the tree up to the proper planting depth.

It's important not to plant your trees too deep. Plant them so that the graft union is 2 inches above the final soil line. Position the tree so that is straight and in the center of the hole. Backfill the hole with the soil that was removed. If it's necessary to add some compost, make it no more than 30% of the total fill.

As you fill in the hole, lightly tamp the soil around the roots or water the soil and let it settle briefly before continuing to fill it up with soil. The idea is to remove any air pockets around the roots. Apply 4 inches of woodchips to within 4 inches of the trunk. Young trees should be watered slowly and deeply (use a soaker hose for 1 hour) each week-adjusting for rain as necessary. Let trees settle in 1 year before adding any fertilizer.

Ellen

About The Author: Ellen Brown is our Green Living and Gardening Expert. Click here to ask Ellen a question! Ellen Brown is an environmental writer and photographer and the owner of Sustainable Media, an environmental media company that specializes in helping businesses and organizations promote eco-friendly products and services. Contact her on the web at http://www.sustainable-media.com

(1x1 graphic )
Previous: When does a Muskogee Crape Myrtle flower? ThriftyFun Next: Fatsia Japonica with Burn Marks on the Leaves
(1x1 graphic )
1x1
1x1
 Feedback
1x1
1x1
1x1

No Feedback Yet

Be the first to post feedback! Click here to post feedback.

1x1
1x1
 Post Feedback:
1x1
1x1
1x1

Login using the form on the top of the page to post feedback (if you are a registered user). If you have not yet registered, click here to do so. It's FREE!.

1x1
(1x1 graphic )

© 1997-2009 ThriftyFun.com - Design by Cumuli Design
Disclaimer: ThriftyFun.com cannot accept any responsibility for any injury or damage that you may cause to yourself, others, or property when following any advice given on this site. Read the full disclaimer. If you find any information on ThriftyFun.com or in our newsletters that is either erroneous and/or potentially harmful to others, please Contact Us, immediately.