By Charlie Burke

Joanne and I particularly enjoy swordfish broiled or on the grill, but we always look to see what looks particularly good at the fish market. "Fresh" means the fish has never been frozen; it does not guarantee that it is of the highest quality. Look for glistening, brightly colored fish and do not hesitate to change from your first choice if another looks better. Always choose fresh over previously frozen. The flesh should be firm and bounce back if touched and should smell only of the sea.

White fleshed species should have no yellow or gray discoloration. Build a relationship with your fish monger, and you will be told what is best that day. We do not hesitate to substitute fresh halibut, cod or, in the summer, bluefish, which when handled correctly, is flavorful and not oily. Fresh striped bass is a special warm weather treat in New England. We suggest you not buy Chilean sea bass at the market or in restaurants because it has been over - fished and is now endangered, in addition not being a local species.

Broiled fish fillets should be at least an inch thick, requiring a cooking time sufficient to caramelize the surface and to develop the flavors in the sauce. Broiled fish does not need to be turned; the top surface will be deeply browned and is the only side seen by your guests. We like the combination of tomato, garlic and herbs used in southern France, but white wine, capers and your choice of herbs can be substituted. Simply rub the fish with olive oil and season if you prefer to have no sauce. This technique remains the same, permitting experimentation while providing reliable results, so feel free to add your favorite herbs, wine or other ingredients to develop your own recipes.

For four:

• 2 pounds swordfish steaks, sliced at least 1" thick, removed from refrigerator for 1 hour
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 2 teaspoons each fresh oregano, rosemary and marjoram or 2 teaspoons dried herbes de Provence
• 1 cup chopped tomato (best quality fresh tomato in summer or canned tomato, such as Muir Glen organic tomatoes, if you do not have your own canned tomatoes)
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 2 teaspoons capers (optional)
• 1/4 cup chopped black olives such as Kalamata (optional)
• Freshly ground pepper and sea salt to taste

Preheat broiler and position rack approximately 3" from broiler element.

Salt and pepper both slices of fish and moisten with olive oil.

Place remaining olive oil and ingredients into a shallow oven - proof baking dish just large enough to hold the fillets.

Broil for 10 minutes per inch of thickness (e.g. 12 ½ minutes for a 1 ¼" fillet).

Plate fish and divide sauce among them.

Serve this fish with a red wine, such as a Cotes de Rhone or a Rioja because the Provencal sauce is too assertive for a white.

About The Author: An organic farmer and avid cook, writer Charlie Burke is the vice president of the New Hampshire Farmer's Market Association (www.nhfma.org). His column & recipes appear weekly in The Heart of New England's newsletter... get a free subscription by sending a blank email to: heartofnewengland-subscribe@yahoogroups.com or visit http://www.TheHeartofNewEngland.com