Happy Garden Newsletter - January 18, 2006

Crafting for Fun and Money!

If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish.

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This is a quick easy gardening gift you can make up very easily. Get an old cup and saucer, fill it with dirt and plant chickens in it. I glue the cup to the saucer so it will not move, makes a nice gift to someone who is sick, does not take a lot of care to maintain.

By Phyllis Powell from Roseburg, Oregon

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Rosa from Detroit, Michigan

Answer:

Sorry to hear about your Crown of Thorns. There are several things that could be going on. When leaves on a houseplant turn yellow and fall, the most common causes are over-watering or cold drafts. When lower leaves dry up and fall off, the causes is usually too little light, too much heat or not enough moisture. Crown of Thorns will stand a certain amount of neglect as long as they have a nice sunny window and an occasional mist in the spring and summer, but this plant needs only moderate amounts of water from spring until fall. In the winter it should be watered only sparingly. Try to let the soil dry out between watering. You can expect to see some leaf drop during the dormant period, but new leaf buds should appear within a month or two. Give your Crown of Thorns as much exposure to bright light as possible and keep it away from any cold drafts. You can also move up one pot size in the spring about every two years.

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 9b

Judi from Camarillo, CA

Answer:

Here are a couple of things to try:

1. If your violets are indoors, try to isolate your violets from other houseplants by moving them to a separate room. Modest success in reducing adult fly numbers can be achieved by hanging yellow sticky traps in the room near your plants. I realize these are unsightly, but they can be effective and they are only temporary.

2. Another solution is to use a small hand-vac to vacuum the flies off of the leaves. This should be done first thing in the morning when flies are least active. Put captured flies into a plastic bag and place them in the freezer overnight to kill them or turn them loose outdoors in winter temperatures.

3. Carefully remove whiteflies from the leaves using a cotton swab slightly moistened with alcohol. You can also use a solution made from 1 part household ammonia to 7 parts water. Either of these can injure the plant's leaves so avoid direct contact as much as possible. Follow up by misting the leaves and gently drying them with dry cotton swabs.

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 4b

Coreen Hart from Rupert, ID

Answer:

Red worms like to hang out just beneath the surface of the soil and you're right about manure piles, they love them. It sounds like your one overfed chicken may be able to help you with that. Lay a board over some of her droppings for a few days and you'll increase the chances of finding worms. Red worms are most active in temperatures ranging between 55ºF and 72ºF so they really thrive indoors. Worms like the cool moist conditions of fall and spring, but as temperatures start to cool off they go deeper into the soil. As long as the soil isn't frozen you should still be able to find some without having to dig too deep. In fact, if the worms are given ample time to adapt to falling temperatures, even in frozen soil, worms can sometimes be found curled up in little air pockets just inches below the soil's surface. Once they are exposed to warmer temperatures, the worms will slowly wake up from hibernating and resume their activities.

Ellen

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Question:

Thanks for your help!

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Shirley from Southwest Michigan

Answer:

As is the case in any pest-control situation, multiple strategies are usually needed in order to see some success, but one of the more effective mole repellants I have read about recently is to spray castor oil or products containing castor oil on the soil around infested areas. Apparently the castor oil does not harm the moles, but it does give them a good stomachache and encourages them to forage for food elsewhere. It supposedly works on voles, too. You can find these types of products at feed supply stores, garden centers or online, but it's just as easy (and likely cheaper) to make your own. Add a 6-ounce bottle of castor oil to 2 gallons of water and 2 tablespoons of dish soap. Use a garden sprayer and apply it to the soil around the base of your peonies just before it's forecasted to rain (the rain will actually help it soak into the soil). Just one ounce of this particular recipe is said to cover 1,000 square feet for approximately 6 months so you may need to cut it down to suit your needs. I have never used this remedy myself (I've never had a mole problem), but I have seen it mentioned multiple times in several different gardening resources and others have told me that it's quite effective. If you try it, let us know if it works.

Ellen

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Use paper seed packages as markers for rows of seeds. Just cover the seed package with clear contact paper to prevent it from the elements and slip over a small stake.

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Technically speaking, a perennial plant is a plant that has a life cycle lasting longer than 2 years. But for most gardeners, perennials are more like old friends. When given the proper care, we can look forward to seeing them return to the garden year after year. Because there are literally thousands of kinds of perennials, it can be a bit overwhelming to try to figure out which type of perennial works best for different situations. Here are suggestions for 10 perennials in a variety of categories.

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Question:

Heather from South Africa

Answer:

This young age is the perfect time to start teaching your puppy that you're the "leader of the pack" and as such, you have certain expectations regarding the behavior of pack members. Rule #1: digging is only done in designated areas! For these first few months, you're going to have to supervise your puppy while out in the yard. Use his/her digging as an opportunity to modify behavior. I'm a huge fan of Cesar Millan-a.k.a The Dog Whisperer. He uses what he describes as calm, assertive energy to direct a dog's mind and body away from undesirable behaviors. It's all about energy. Control the mind and body and you control the behavior. Cesar maintains that in the wild, dogs need rules, boundaries and limitations in order to survive as a stable and organized pack. Every dog knows its position within the pack and what is expected of him. This pack mentality is one of the strongest natural motivators in dogs and is an effective training tool for humans.

In the wild, members of the pack learn early on that there are undesirable consequences for certain behaviors. These consequences usually come (swiftly) in the form of a bite from pack leaders. Since you are your puppy's pack leader, when your puppy starts digging, you can mimic this "bite" by turning your hand into a "teeth-like" claw and firmly touching the side of your puppy's neck while directing him away from your flowerbeds. You can use your voice to emphasize your point, but asserting yourself with a firm, physical touch is more important. Consistency is key, but this form of dog psychology really works. Don't punish him/her, just assert your authority. If you have the room, set aside a sandy spot in the corner of the yard just for puppy play and direct him/her to this area. Other physical deterrents include laying down wire mesh or plastic soda bottles filled with water or inserting wire coat hangers into the soil to create a physical barrier. Whatever you do, don't use any chemical deterrents-especially those formulated to keep out wildlife. They seldom work and they can be harmful to young animals if ingested. Some gardeners have also had luck temporarily "poopy trapping" the area with the dog's own feces. For more information on Cesar Millan and his Dog Psychology Center, visit www.dogpsychologycenter.com

Good luck!
Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Lynda from TX

Answer:

I'm not at all familiar with Madagascar Grapes, and despite my research I was unable to find any information on a grape variety by that name. What I will say is that in most cases, Texas heat is better suited to growing "warm climate varieties" than "cool climate varieties." That's because the temperatures cause cooler grape varieties to ripen faster than usual, which will affect their acidity and ultimately their flavor. This probably wouldn't be as big a deal if you're growing grapes for use in jellies or juices, but it might be noticeable in grapes eaten raw or used in those used for producing wines. I'm assuming that a variety named for Madagascar would be more of a warm climate variety, seeing as Madagascar's climate is tropical. Here is a link to Texas A & M University that includes some great information on growing grapes in Texas. Hopefully they can give you some better answers on the variety you're interested in.

• http://winegrapes.tamu.edu/grow/varieties.shtml

Good luck!
Ellen

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The best way to get cheap plants is from fellow gardeners. Ask your neighbor if you can have a start or take a cutting of one of their plants. Start exchanging plants with family members. Next, you will want to check out your local farmer's market. They sell plants at reasonable prices and are always willing to offer helpful advice about how to care for the plants they sell. Plants you acquire locally will be better adapted to growing in your climate.

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Question:

Why is it the best, perhaps only, natural treatment for grubworms? I'm familiar with the "life cycle" of the Japanese Beetle from which it comes, but since I live on a corner under a bright street light, it draws them to all our homes. Others may be able and not want to be organic but I was almost killed SEVERAL times, accidentally, from pesticides, twice in my yard, and once in a garage sale accident.

Perhaps you can understand why it is especially important to stay organic? I firmly believe that when the yard is in balance, such pests can't get such a grip. However, as you remind us, this last dry spell/heat wave, water restriction really did damage to that balance. My beds are all Zeriscaped, but the lawn remains vulnerable. I am considering expanding into the lawn around the house/shrubs, beneath the trees, with a natural zeriscaped walking path and free organic mulch from the city. One home has the entire lawn area in grasses/ plantings, but it seems out of control.

I have plenty of Lirope Grass/Asian Jasmine to do the same, but I don't like it. I love a more natural, not messy, look and environment. Can you help?

Also, would the grubs be attracted by any particular plant other than grass and light? Is there any research on it?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Lynda from TX

Answer

You're covering two different topics here, so let's take them one at a time.

Mily Spore

Regarding milky spore, you asked:

1. How is it made? It sounds like a bacteria colony, is it? Milky disease spores consist of 2 types of bacteria (Bacillus popilliae and B.lentimorbus) that are combined as a microbial insecticide product called milky disease or mild spore disease. Beetle grubs eat spores that have been sprayed on lawns while feeding on grass roots. The bacteria kill grubs of Japanese beetles and several related beetles but are harmless to other organisms.

2. Is it made from milk? The "milk" in milky spore actually comes from the fact that the bodies of the grubs infected with the bacteria become filled with an opaque, milky white liquid that remains in the soil after the grubs die.

3. How long would it take to produce some should one get the formula? This formula is produced commercially. Once the grubs are infected, they continue to inoculate the soil as they travel until they die. The spores are usually carried over from year to year by new generations of beetles. Northern zones may need repeated applications, but for southern gardens, usually only one application is necessary. Once established, milky spore can help control grub populations for a decade or more.

4. Why is it the best, perhaps only, natural treatment for grubworms? There are many ways to naturally control Japanese beetle populations. Among natural controls, Milky disease spores are just one method of biological control and not necessarily any better or any worse than other "natural" methods. The best way to keep things naturally in balance is to use a combination of cultural and biological methods. One cultural technique for controlling beetles is to hand pick them as adults or shake them onto drop cloths and then to dispose of them in a pail of soapy water. This is best done early in the morning when the beetles are least active. Two other biological means of control include attracting native species of parasitic wasps and flies or releasing parasitic nematodes into the soil.

5. Also, would the grubs be attracted by any particular plant other than grass and light? Larvae will feed on whatever is available. They tend to prefer the roots of lawn grasses, but they will also feed on the roots of other garden plants.

6. Is there any research on it? Because this beetle is so common and also damages some agricultural crops commercially, scientists continue to research their habits and life cycles in order to find better ways to control their populations. Several studies have suggested that the adult beetles are most strongly attracted to light-colored flowers and those with stronger fragrances. Certain cultivars also seem to show more resistance to attacks. Search for Japanese beetles on http://scholar.google.com for current research studies. Here is an interesting link discussing some research being done by the University of Kentucky: http://cipm.ncsu.edu/ent/Southern_Region/99Programs/kentucky.html

Walking Path

I have plenty of Lirope Grass/Asian Jasmine to do the same, but I don't like it. I love a more natural, not messy, look and environment. Can you help?

I think Xeriscape landscaping is a wonderful idea for your garden-especially in Texas, where demands on fresh water have become a critical issue. If you're looking for low-growing ground covers and plantings that will give a more tidy, yet natural looking path, you might consider vinca, English ivy or little bunny dwarf grass. Texas A & M has a wonderful site on Xeriscape landscaping that lists of all types of plants, including ground covers, grasses and perennials and what part of Texas they are best adapted to.
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/xeriscape/xeriscape.html

Pictures of native Texas wildflowers can be found here:
http://hotx.com/wildflowers/

You can also find ideas for drought resistant plants by zone here:
http://classygroundcovers.com/

Hope this information helps!

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Lisa from Athens, AL

Answer:

Sunflowers are easy-to-grow annuals. Replanting them from this year's crop doesn't require any special preparation. To harvest seeds for planting next year, you can either lop off the mature seed heads and bring them indoors for drying, or cover them with cheesecloth or paper bags while they are still on the stem to collect the seeds as they fall. As long as you protect them from squirrels and birds, it's best to let them remain in the garden for as long as possible. There will be several indicators that the seeds have reached maturity. The backs of the flower heads will turn start to dry and turn brown, the flower petals will wilt and fall, and with the exception of the inner most seeds (they usually remain somewhat smaller) the seeds will appear full and plump. Depending on the variety, the seed coats will either be a shiny black color or black and white striped. Once mature, the seeds will become like loose teeth and you'll notice the birds and squirrels moving in. Before they drop, cut the heads off, leaving about a foot of stem attached. Hang them upside down until they dry completely. The seeds can them be rubbed out by hand or by using a small, metal screen. Store dry seeds over winter in airtight containers. Sow them directly into the garden in the spring after danger of the last frost has passed. Plant seeds 1/2 inch deep approximately 12 inches apart in full sun and well-drained soil. You can also start them earlier indoors and transplant them after they grow their second set of true leaves.

Ellen

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The Perennial Plant Association is a trade organization made up of nurseries, landscapers, and other garden industry experts, dedicated to educating gardeners on exceptional perennial plants. Each year, members of the association cast their vote for a plant that they feel is worthy of the title of Perennial Plant of the Year. For the year 2007, the ballots have been cast and the votes have been counted. This year the award goes to a catmint named, "Walker's Low."

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Judy from Leighton, AL

Answer:

Without seeing your pecan tree it's tough to say with any certainty what the problem (and the solution) might be. Pecan trees (and other nut trees) can suffer from a variety of maladies.

If you've had a couple of wet summers, it could be that your tree is suffering from some type of fungal disease like scab. Symptoms include dark spots on the undersides of leaves and the outer covering of the nuts. The leaves of a tree infected with scab turn yellow and the nuts fall prematurely. If that's the case, controlling it will depend on Mother Nature and waiting for a dry year.

Small dark spots can also be caused by stink bugs.

Do the pecans that have fallen to the ground contain small, grub-like worms? These could be pecan weevil larvae. The adult weevils are dark gray or brown beetle-like insects with long snouts. They lay their eggs on developing nuts, which then hatch and bore into the pecans leaving a small hole in the shell.

Another white worm found less frequently in the nuts is the hickory shuckworm. Infestations are characterized by olive green or reddish gray caterpillars that feed on buds and leaves and tunnel into young shoots to pupate. Adult moths emerge in May and lay their eggs on the nuts, which then hatch and bore into the shells.

A lack of nut production could point to pollination problems, too much water or not enough fertilizer.

You could be looking at one or a combination of problems. Hopefully some of this information will help you diagnose the problems and narrow down your search for solutions. Here are some useful links to diagnosing pecan tree problems.

• http://www.alabamapecanfestival.com/pecan14.html
• http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit/pecan1.html

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Plant labels can be expensive to buy and often don't last more than once season. So, this year I am making my own. I am cutting squares out of my clear plastic milk jugs, and writing the plant or seed name on the squares, along with the date planted. Then, using an ice pick, I am poking 3 holes (in a vertical line) about 1 and 1/2 inches apart in the square. Then, I am inserting my stick, weaving it through the holes to hold it. (with only 2 holes, the plastic square label part slides down, the 3rd hole seems to prevent this) The "sticks" are a piece of stiff galvanized fence wire that I cut to a 12 inch length, bought for about $2.00 at the hardware store in the scrap pile. It should probably make about 25 label holders. Good way to recycle empty milk jugs. I can reuse my "sticks" again next year.

By April from Plattsburg, MO

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 7a

Elaine from Charlottesville, VA

Answer:

You can use the same method to store both types of tubers over winter. As soon as the tops turn yellow and start to die back (usually the first or second fall frost), carefully lift the plants out of the ground. Go ahead and cut the stems back to the tubers, but leave the roots and any soil attached intact. Allow the tubers to cure for a week or two and then clean off the remaining soil and trim the roots. Dusting the tubers with a fungicide before storage is optional. An easy way to do this is to shake them in a paper bag filled with a bit of dust. The tubers can be layered in a box filled with dry peat, sand, sawdust or vermiculite. Stored in a dry room at temperatures between 50-55ºF. Check on them periodically. If they appear to be shriveling due to moisture loss, sprinkle them with a few drops of water.

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Diane from Jefferson City, MO.

Answer:

Sorry to hear about your hosta. Go ahead and cut back whatever remains of the leaves as soon as they turn yellow. As long as the leaves (or what remains of them) are green, they are still producing food for the plant. Because your plants lost so many leaves, you'll want them to go into winter with as many reserves as possible. Usually after one or two good frosts the leaves will start to die back. It isn't necessary to cut back the leaves, but it's always a good idea to clean them up in the fall to prevent slugs, snails and other pests from taking refuge among leaf debris over winter. I wish I knew what attacked your hostas so I could help you find better ways to prevent it from happening next year. Slugs and snails are the usual hosta culprits, but other pests can wreak plenty of havoc, too. If these same pests should happen to show up again and you have a camera handy, try to snap us a picture of them.

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 10a

Kiki from Monterey, CA

Answer:

The apples growing on your tree should be safe to eat, but throw out any of the fruit laying on the ground. By throwing out I mean don't compost it, put it in the garbage, or at least compost it in a separate pile. Urine acts like a shot of concentrated fertilizer. It won't hurt your tree, but the salts will leave burn marks in your lawn. Although you tree won't absorb any toxin from them, your dog's feces are more of a serious health risk. Dog feces often contain worm eggs, which can easily survive composting and eventually end up back in your garden soil where they can become accidentally ingested via garden edibles. They also contain billions of coliform bacteria, which when left on the ground, is carried into storm drains, creeks and lakes when it rains. Unlike our human waste, which goes to water treatment plants or into septic systems, dog feces left on the ground eventually finds its way to local waterways (including well water and swimming beaches), and is a major contributor to water pollution. It also plays host to a number of undesirable insects.

Ellen

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Did you receive one of those nifty bath baskets for Christmas? Is the basket made of wire? Well, here is a idea to use it after all the bath contents are gone. Line the basket with a coconut basket liner, fill with soil and plant flowers or herbs in it. You could do this also with baskets that held coffee mugs or any kitchen item as long as it is made of metal.

By Debra Frick from Colorado Springs, Colorado

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 10b

Thank you,
Brigitte from Israel

Answer:

Here is some more input on your questions regarding composting grapes by adding them directly on top of your garden soil. First of all, grape's skins, pulp and seeds make wonderful compost. Several vineyards here in the U.S. compost their winery waste (or pumice), because it makes a great soil amendment by adding valuable organic nutrients to the soil as well as improving its texture. It's okay to add the grapes directly to your garden, but you'll want to turn them under so they mix in well with the soil. This should also be done at least two months prior to planting anything in your garden. This is because the fungi, bacteria and soil microbes responsible for breaking down the compost will also attack the roots of any seedlings the compost happens to come into contact with while it's breaking the waste down. You might find it more convenient just to set aside about a 3 ft. by 3 ft. area in the corner of the garden to start your pile. Here are some answers to your additional questions.

1. Can any paper which is not glossy or coloured can be used? Can I throw in my kids old drawings? How about newspaper that was mentioned above, do I need to ascertain that there are no coloured ads? Any paper without a waxy coating can be composted. High gloss papers like those from magazines contain additional chemicals and dyes and should be avoided if possible. I wouldn't worry to much about colored newsprint ads. Most newspapers are now printed using biodegradable soy-based inks-including the colored ads. At least that's the story here in the U.S. You might want to check with your local newspaper publisher if you have concerns about it.

2. If I pluck weeds and let them dry out, can I assume the seeds also die? How can I tell if they have seeds or not, so that I can use them? Some weeds reproduce by root rhizomes, other by runners and still others by seeds. You can never assume that the seeds (or weeds) will be made unviable by drying them out or even composting them, although a "hot" compost pile will usually reach high enough temperatures to take care of any seeds. Avoid composting any weed seeds that are obvious (I wouldn't worry about removing any grape seeds), and be prepared to pluck out a few "compost weeds" now and then.

3. Why do you keep the compost in the fridge? I would like to start, but I would not have room for it. Some people find that it works well to keep a small bucket of kitchen waste in the refrigerator instead of running the waste out to the compost pile every evening. The refrigerator slows down the decomposition process and reduces potential odors until the container fills up and is transferred to the outdoor pile. There are also small kitchen-sized composters designed especially to fit into your refrigerator or sit on your kitchen counter. These are useful for composting small amounts of waste or making compost tea to use for houseplants.

4. Does everything need to be crushed? I have carrot peels; do they need to be small? Do I have to crush the eggshells? Technically speaking, nothing has to be crushed or broken down before adding it to the pile, but you'll find that reducing waste to smaller- sized pieces will speed up the composting process. Carrot peels are small enough. Eggshells do not have to be crushed. Large-sized yard debris (thick sticks or branches) and plant material (e.g. sunflower stalks) can be broken down into 2-3 inch pieces or shredded for faster composting. All organic waste will break down eventually, whether you reduce its size or not.

5. Do cooked produce (e.g. my kids leftover veggies or moldy bread or egg shells from hard boiled eggs) work too? Absolutely!

6. How about milk products? It's generally best to avoid composting animal products (meat, fish, poultry, fat, bones, eggs, and dairy). They tend to smell and attract unwanted visitors and even disease. Also avoid vegetable oils. Do not compost plastics or synthetic fibers.

7. Is covering it important? We don't drink filtered coffee, should I use leaves instead? It isn't always necessary to cover your compost pile, but it's helpful to prevent too much moisture from getting into the pile; it discourages animal scavengers and it traps in heat, which speeds up the composting process. Leaves, coffee and coffee grounds can all be added to your compost pile. Everything will break down eventually. A mixture containing 50-70% browns (leaves, hay and other dry matter), 30-50% greens (grass, garbage, manure) and 0-5% black (dirt or old compost) plus a little bit of moisture to make things damp (and air) is a good balance of materials for producing compost and will produce the fastest results.

8. How long do I leave it? How do I know that it is ready? You can tell your compost is ready when it's hard to distinguish individual waste ingredients. It will probably look a lot like dirt and smell "sweet and earthy." Depending on your mix of materials and the weather, expect to see fresh compost in anywhere from 3-6 months.

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If you have plants or trees that you don't want, recycle by calling your City Hall and asking if their Parks and Rec. dept can pick them up for replanting. I do and it saves the city money and adds beauty to the parks. I plant the extras in pots for easy pick up. New home owners: use this tip when you move in if you don't like the landscaping. No need to throw away those rose bushes in the trash. Happy Gardening!

By Great Granny Vi from Moorpark, CA

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My Frugal Life
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My Amaryllis bulb (Red Lion) sprouted a tip of a leaf or stalk two weeks ago and stopped growing. Any ideas how to make it grow? The growth is green, just not getting bigger.

Alina from Hoffman Estates, IL

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With the mild winter we've been having my bulbs have started sprouting and my trees are budding. I'm sure winter will soon be arriving and be getting plenty of snow - should I be concerned about them?

Hardiness Zone: 6b

Elizabeth Ehmen from Warsaw, IN

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I got some "cat mint" from a swap last year. Is this the same as cat nip? It certainly looks like it's in the mint family.

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Chuck R. from Grand Rapids, MI

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I have this plant that has sentimental value to me and it is not looking to good. It came in a funeral plant basket. I have no idea what kind of plant it is I do not know if I am watering to much or not enough. Any help is appreciated.

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Debbi B from Brownstown, MI

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We had nasty below freezing weather this week. I am thinking we are going to have to replace some shrubbery and decorative perennials. I have decided to use drought, heat and cold tolerant plants that don't have a bad spreading habit. Short of hiring a professional, do you have any suggestions. We have blazing sunlight and deep shade.

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Thanks,
Holly from Richardson, TX

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My neighbor has an African tulip tree that they refuse to take responsibility for, despite repeated requests (by myself) over several years and repeated promises (by them) to do so. It is planted right next to my brick wall and the invasive roots are not only damaging my pool pipes (right next to the wall) and popping up in my lawn, but now the wall is buckling as well. How can I kill this tree cheaply as they don't seem to care about the damage it is causing.

Cathy from Townsville, QLD

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I know you can give potato water to a plants, what about rice water?

Debbi B from Brownstown, MI

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