The Happy Garden Newsletter - August 17, 2006

Hello,

This week we have some tips for Easy Weeding Without Chemicals as well as more useful advice offered by Ellen Brown.

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Happy Gardening!

Susan

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Today's newsletter contains:

Today's Tips and Articles:

• Cats Using Flower Garden as a Litter Box
• Grass and Weeds Growing Between Bricks
• Problems Growing Peppers
• Gardenia Not Blooming
• Birds Eating My Sunflowers
• New Shoots Around the Base of Trees
• When Are Figs Ripe?
• Easy Weeding Without Chemicals

New Requests:

• Sweet Gum Trees and the Bird Flu Virus
• Buying a Snipper for Sweet Gum Tree Balls
• Growing a Daylily in a Pot
• Tomatoes Are Not Getting Ripe
• Good Grass for Rocky Soil
• Getting Rid of Monkey Grass
• Green Bug Eating My Tomatoes
• Locust Making Holes in Window Screens

Growing Guides:

• Growing: Oriental Poppy
• Growing: Apricots
• Growing: Thyme
• Growing: Strawberries
• Growing: Peaches
• Growing: Blackberries

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Today's Tips and Articles

Cats Using Flower Garden as a Litter Box Question: I was wondering how I can keep neighborhood cats from using my Flower Garden for outdoor litter box. What I can do to deter that? Holly from Oregon Answer: Holly, This is a question that comes up a lot! I'm going to list all of the tactics that I can think of and hope readers can give you some additional tips. Talk To Your Neighbors (Try to Resolve The Problem Amicably) This is the logical first step, but I realize that often times it's impossible to know to whom these cats really belong to. If you know where it is that the little darlings call home, it's time to meet your neighbors. Before you appear on their doorstep, check with your city government about local leash laws. I'm sure that once you educate your neighbors on the possibility of kitty ingesting potentially toxic plants, the dangers of handling soil contaminated by feces and your legitimate concerns over the safety of backyard birds, they will be more then happy to let kitty play indoors for the rest of the summer (or at least somewhere far away from your garden). Should the acquisition of this information fail to initiate the response you're looking for, kindly let them know that, regrettably, you'll be forced to call animal control if kitty persists in selecting your flowerbeds as a place to relive herself. Other Tactics Plant a small plot of catnip or cat thyme in a corner of your yard to lure cats away from your garden. Plant it around a small sand box. Cats will always prefer using fine sand to using heavy garden soil. With luck, you can persuade your neighbor to provide an outdoor sandbox in HIS yard instead of yours. Spread prickly textures around the garden such as pinecones, holly leaves or medium coarse gravel on newly turned over dirt. You can also try placing large river rocks over bare areas of soil. Cats love fresh soil so keeping it covered up will help to keep them from using your garden as a litter box. Make a deterrent with two parts cayenne pepper, three parts dry mustard and five parts flour. Sprinkle this around plants and near areas cats frequent. Cut up citrus peels and lay them throughout your flowerbeds. Cats detest the smell of citrus and don't like walking on sticky objects. Supposedly, they also dislike the smell of cayenne pepper, blood meal, marigolds, coffee grounds, pipe tobacco, lavender oil, lemon grass oil, citronella oil, peppermint oil, eucalyptus oil, and mustard oil. Any of these may act as deterrents. Stick disposable plastic forks (tines up) in containers, window boxes or in other areas that cats seem to favor. Just make sure you don't stick these in places where cats can jump down on them from above. Try Cat-Scat Mats (available at garden centers). These are mats designed with flexible spikes to keep cats out of your garden without hurting them. You can cut them down to the size you need and most gardeners seem to think they work quite well. Install motion activated sprinklers, and never miss an opportunity to deter cats with a strong spray from the garden hose. You might also keep a spray bottle or long-range squirt gun near the front and back doors and ask family members to help you keep an eye out for kitty. Spread used tea leaves around plants. Lay chicken wire down (cats don't like digging in it) or cover plants with wire cages if necessary. Borrow a friend's dog for a few days to patrol the yard. Invest in commercial products like predator repellants or high-frequency sound emitters. To help minimize damage from salts left behind from urine, add fresh soil, peat moss and plenty of water to dilute the soil and counter the effects. Finally, remember that unless it's a wild cat, this isn't a cat problem; it's an owner problem. Refrain from punishing the animal for the owner's bad behavior. The cat is, after all, just doing what cats do. And for those of you who let your cats roam freely outdoors, PLEASE (we're begging you!) consider keeping them inside or securing them while they are outdoors (I have 4 cats that are more than happy to bask in the sunshine or nap under my hosta leaves while on tethers). Good Luck! Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Grass and Weeds Growing Between Bricks Question: I have brick around a pool. I have children that play around my pool. Grass and weeds are growing from the cracks. How do I kill the weeds? The children are bare foot and I also have a possible run off. I am afraid to use anything toxic as I might harm my children. Any suggestions? Jim from Churchville, PA Answer: Jim, If you're looking to avoid run-off and protect your children's bare feet, your best options are hand pulling, pouring boiling water on the weeds or using a propane torch to singe them. Many people might suggest using a solution made from 1 gallon of vinegar (regular 5% distilled vinegar found at the grocery store), 1 cup of salt and 1 teaspoon of liquid dish soap. I wouldn't. Because this is a pool area frequented by bare feet, I would stick to a non-chemical solution. Vinegar can be mildly irritating to the skin of some people (even in low 5% concentrations). Also, using vinegar repeatedly on concrete in a sunny area will cause it to degrade over time. Finally, with both the salt and vinegar there's a chance of run-off. To hand pull the weeds, wet the area first and use a small shovel to make sure you get the roots out. Place some shredded newspaper followed by some sand or small rocks in the cracks to prevent the weeds from re-sprouting. Pouring boiling water or burning the weeds with a torch will work fine, but those methods may require several attempts before you can safely say you've accomplished your goal. Young kids love to pull things so get them involved. You might want to throw a "weeding party" which ends with a rewarding dip in the pool. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Problems Growing Peppers Question: I usually have great success growing peppers. This year the plants have not grown at all since I planted them (2 months ago). The leaves have black edges on them and are curled sideways. I do rotate my crops and do not understand what is going on. Any suggestions? Hardiness Zone: 6a Betty from Slate Hill, NY Answer: Betty, It's tough to say what is causing your pepper leaves to curl and growth to stop, but here are some possible causes that match the symptoms you describe: It could be Pepper or Tobacco/Tomato Mosaic Virus. Symptoms include stunted plants, distorted leaves and fruits and reduced yields. Check your peppers for aphids and spider mites. They are the common carriers of this disease. It could be damage due to the application of herbicides (Did you spray anything on other non-edible parts of your garden?). It could be weather related. Leaves often curl and plants quit growing due to heavy rains or when excessive amounts of moisture stays in the soil for prolonged periods of time. The upper leaves are usually the first to curl. Peppers like water, but they don't do will when over-watered. Keep their soil a bit on the dry side without letting it ever dry out completely. It could be due to extreme temperatures. Cool temperatures (day or night), especially when peppers are first transplanted, can stunt their growth. Peppers like it hot, but prolonged periods of extreme heat can cause stress and result in permanent damage. It could be due to a lack of potassium in the soil. This causes brown leaf margins and curling. Many people make the mistake of giving their peppers too much nitrogen. Peppers need care similar to tomatoes and prefer a fertilizer that has a higher ratio of phosphorus and potassium. It could be root nematode damage. Peppers should never be rotated to an area where members of the nightshade family (e.g. tomatoes) were grown the pervious year. Peppers and tomatoes have certain pests and diseases in common that can be easily passed back and forth between plants. Check with your neighbors and see how their peppers are doing. If they share your pepper problems, it's probably due to rainfall or temperatures. If not, you may want to contact your county extension agency about getting a soil test. Good luck! Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Gardenia Not Blooming Question: I got a gardenia, the pot variety, and it won't bloom. Any suggestions? I have fed it well with plant food for potted plants. It is growing with lovely foliage but I want those lovely fragrant blooms. Hardiness Zone: 7a Elaine from Charlottesville, VA Answer: Elaine, Gardenias are notoriously fussy. Creating the perfect conditions can be challenging, but it's worth the effort once those lovely blooms appear. Temperature, humidity and light are the three most critical factors in getting your gardenia to bloom. In order for it to produce buds, the plant needs cooler nighttime temperatures-preferably 60-65ºF and daytime temperatures not exceeding 70ºF. Keeping them in temperatures outside of this range can prevent them from flowering. This can be a bit tricky, especially in the summer. Gardenias require a fair amount of humidity, full sun and like soil that is kept consistently moist (but not wet). If you can, mist yours daily with a spray bottle. Gardenias also like their soil on the acidic side (pH between 5.0-6.0), so you might want to switch to an acidic fertilizer like those designed for azaleas or rhododendrons (used it half strength). If you can create these conditions consistently throughout the growing season you should start to see some blooms. Good Luck! Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Birds Eating My Sunflowers Question: Bluebirds are eating the leaves of my sunflower and morning glory plants. Any ideas on how to deter them? Hardiness Zone: 6a Marie Answer: Marie, I'm going to assume that your sunflower and morning glory plants are seedlings. Although I've never seen birds eat morning glory seedlings, it's plausible, because they sure love tender young sunflower sprouts. I would suggest getting some cheap floating row covers to cover your plants. You can easily make your own using some lightweight, white fabric and a few wire hoops for supports. After a few weeks the seedlings will be well established and the birds won't be interested anymore so you can uncover them. If, on the other hand, your sunflower and morning glory plants are mature, I suspect that the birds may be going after insects on the leaves rather than the eating the leaves themselves. Check the plants for insects. If it seems like this could be the problem, it can probably be easily remedied just by spraying the plants down every few days with a stiff jet of water from the hose. For a serious infestation, you can apply an organic insecticidal soap to the leaves or make your own using 2 Tbsp of liquid dish soap and a gallon of water. Apply this in the morning and be prepared to rinse it off the morning glory leaves after a few hours to prevent the leaves from getting burned by the sun. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

New Shoots Around the Base of Trees Question: I've read about new shoots coming up around the base of trees, (i.e. Dogwoods), but, what about the shoots that come up around the base/ lower trunk of my Cherry tree and Crepe Myrtles? The bases of these trees are approximately 8-12" in diameter. Do I lope them off? Is it possible to transplant these "sprouts?" If so, how? Hardiness Zone: 7b Bekkicat from Charlotte Answer: Bekkicat, The little shoots you are referring to are called suckers or water sprouts. On crape myrtles, these usually develop along the lower portions of the main stems or are sent up by the roots and appear as volunteers around the base of the tree. Most people like to remove the suckers to maintain the tree's overall growth shape. There are a couple of ways to do this that will prevent the sprouts from reappearing. One way is to remove the soil around the suckers and cut them off as close as possible to where they meet the main root. A second way, one that is often used by professional landscapers, is to prune them close to the ground and then apply a synthetic plant growth inhibitor called NAA (naphthalene acetic acid) to the suckers to keep them from re-sprouting. Be warned that if you simply prune them to the ground without taking additional action keep them from re-sprouting, the tree may think you are trying to "pinch it back" and respond by sending up twice as many shoots. If you want to try and root the suckers, clip them off to a length of about 6". Strip the leaves from the lower 1/3 of the stems and dip the stripped ends into a rooting hormone. Use a pencil to make holes in the soil and stick them into the ground right up to the first leaf. (If planting in pots, one 10" pot will hold about 5 cuttings). Water them well and put them in the shade. You'll need to keep your cuttings moist if you want them to root, so I would recommend covering them with a 2-liter bottle (just cut the bottom off), which will keep them nice and humid. In about 6 to 8 weeks they should have roots. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

When Are Figs Ripe? Question: I have a fig tree that I planted 3 summers ago. It has grown well and is now about 7 feet tall. We have let 4 main shoots remain and cut back the others. We bought it at a flea market and I do not know what kind of fig it is. Last year, it had a few figs on it, but they never developed and ripened. It is currently loaded with fruit, but I don't know when they should ripen. As the tree grows, new fruit is appearing, but all are still green and hard. When can I expect ripe figs? Hardiness Zone: 7b Harlean from Hot Springs, Arkansas Answer: Harlean, I can't tell you "when" exactly that you'll have ripe figs, but I can tell you what to look for so you'll know when they are ready. Fig trees will usually produce a full crop of figs within a month's time once the first figs start to ripen. Warmer zones may see more than one crop in a season. Before figs are fully ripe, they appear to extend straight upwards from the branch. As they ripen, the fruit starts to droop and hang vertically from the branch. Its texture will become soft, but firm, and the skin will appear thin and moist, sometimes splitting open to reveal the flesh. (Use care when picking and transporting ripe figs. With their thin skins they are easily damaged.) The outer skin of a ripe fig will also turn color. In the U.S. many of the most commonly grown figs turn a pale golden yellow, but this depends on the variety you are growing. When you lift them upwards from their drooping position, a ripe fig will separate easily from the branch. Most figs are best when eaten as soon as possible (within a few days) of becoming ripe. You can extend this peak period by a day or two if you keep them in the fridge. Figs can also be frozen in light syrup (using a sugar pack) and kept for several months. It's important to pick your figs when then they are ripe, because they really don't continue to ripen well once they have been picked. If absolutely necessary, you may be able to bring an under-ripe fig to its peak if you leave it in a sunny windowsill for a day or two. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Easy Weeding Without Chemicals By Ellen Brown Did you know that gardeners and home owners spend millions of dollars each year trying to rid their gardens of weeds? We keep spraying them and they keep coming back. I don't know about you, but Minnesota summers are short, and I prefer not to squander what little summer I have by spending my time trying to combat weeds. Here are some easy ways to keep weeds to a minimum while enjoying summer to the maximum. Smother Them One word. Mulch. Smother weeds with 3 to 4 inches of it and you'll be amazed at how weed-free you'll be. Most people underestimate what 3 inches of mulch looks like so use a ruler as a guide. Use wood chips, straw, leaves, pine needles or compost, but depending on your soil, choose a mulch that will help neutralize the pH in your soil rather than swing it to the acidic or alkaline extreme. Tip: Apply a good layer of mulch this fall and you'll be half way to a weed-free spring next year. Crowd Them Reduce the amount of bare soil you have available and you'll reduce the amount of weeds in your garden. Plant your ground cover plants twice as close as suggested. They are not as apt to mind the close quarters as other plants and they will fill in fast and reduce any bare ground. Planting ground covers like rye, buckwheat or clover will also help crowd out weeds, while attracting beneficial insects and adding nutrients back into the soil. Clip Them Hand pulling weeds is still the best way to remove them, but clipping leaf growth down to the roots repeatedly will eventually deplete the weed's energy and cause it to give up. By not disturbing the soil, you don't have to worry about turning up any new seeds. Use a scissors, small shears or a hoe to quickly take off their tops. Cook Them There are three ways to cook a weed-each one increasing in temperature and efficiency. You can cover them with plastic and let the sun do it (solarize them), you can use your tea kettle and pour boiling water on them, or you can carefully singe them using a propane torch. If you decide to solarize them by covering them with plastic, make sure you wet the area down before covering it to help speed up the process. Eat Them? Yes, it's true. Many weeds are edible-at the very least, medicinal. If you can learn to live with them, maybe you'll grow to love them. Who knows, once you add them to your next salad or cook them up like collard greens, this year's weeds could be next year's desirables. (You may want to save a few seeds just in case you want to plant them on purpose next year!) Just make sure that before you start dishing up weeds with your next meal or using them to stock your medicine cabinet, you double-check the weed's I.D. with a plant expert and avoid any weeds that have been exposed to chemicals (no matter how Earth-friendly). Examples of edible or medicinal weeds include Chickweed, Chicory, Clover, Couch Grass, Dandelion, Dead Nettles, Feverfew, Great Mullein, Ground Ivy, Groundsel, Horsetail, Lamb's Quarters, Ox-Eye Daisy, Potentilla, Purslane, Soapwort, Stinging Nettle, Tansy, Toadflax, Wild Carrot, Wild Roses, Wood Sorrel and Yarrow. Keep Them In The Dark Weeds and desired plants have one thing in common. They need light to thrive. Take away their sunshine, and weeds soon die. To block out the light cover weeds with wet newspaper (6-12 sheets should do it), corrugated cardboard, carpet scraps or an old shower curtain. Don't be afraid to cover up your light-blocking materials with mulch for the purpose of appearance, just make sure you cut slits in them so you can slide them around the bases of your ornamental plants. Post Feedback: Click Here

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New Requests

Sweet Gum Trees and the Bird Flu Virus I was interested in the sweet gum tree fruit comments about them being helpful to the bird flu virus, is there anyone we can give the fruit to? Who would i contact? Hardiness Zone: 5a Nim from McCordsville, IN Post Feedback: Click Here

Buying a Snipper for Sweet Gum Tree Balls Where can I purchase Snipper for Sweet Gum tree seed balls on the internet? Turman from Broaddus, TX Post Feedback: Click Here

Growing a Daylily in a Pot Can I grow a Daylily plant in pot to be kept indoors? Hardiness Zone: 5b Jenny from Milwaukee Post Feedback: Click Here

Tomatoes Are Not Getting Ripe Our tomato plants have luxuriant growth and lots of green tomatoes but they are taking forever to ripen, and when they do, they're blotchy. They are growing in silty soil but I've put lots of compost into it, and I've been feeding them with Miracle Gro every two weeks. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks! Hardiness Zone: 6a Peter from Silver Spring, MD Post Feedback: Click Here

Good Grass for Rocky Soil I would like to know of a good hearty grass to plant in bad soil with lots of rocks in it. We live in the country. Hardiness Zone: 4b Thanks, Barb from Fairview, MI Post Feedback: Click Here

Getting Rid of Monkey Grass I have a natural area in my front yard that I have planted with hundreds of tulips. It also has a border of monkey grass. the monkey grass is invading the entire natural area. I have sprayed it several times but the monkey grass has a wax coating and the spray has no effect. I want to kill the monkey grass inside the area with killing my border or the dormant tulip bulbs. Please advise me how to do this. Thank you. Joe from Harrisburg, NC Post Feedback: Click Here

Green Bug Eating My Tomatoes I couldn't figure out what was eating my tomatoes plants. I was looking close one day and I found a bug. I will attach a pic of it. What is it? Please let me know and how too keep them off of my plants. Hardiness Zone: 5a Thank You, Joyce from WI Post Feedback: Click Here

Locust Making Holes in Window Screens Small holes appeared in window sreens all around the house. They were replaced about a month ago. The holes began appearing again and the culbret was caught in the act! A locust was actually seen cutting away. I have searched the web and can only find where they destroy crops/trees etc. Why window screens and how can this be stopped? Any help will be appreciated. Mema from NC Post Feedback: Click Here

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Growing Guides

Growing: Oriental Poppy By Ellen Brown Growing Hints: To be certain you get the color you prefer, unlike other poppies, it's best to buy Oriental poppies from nurseries. Plants will spread some, but prefer not to be disturbed. Divide them in the fall every 4 to 5 years if necessary. Dig deep to get as many of the roots as possible and discard the less vigorous parts of the clumps. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Apricots By Ellen Brown Planning Tips: New trees should be planted in the early spring. They can be planted in the fall in mild areas if the trees are dormant. When selecting trees, look for trees that are least 1 year in age. Trees are self-fertile (they do not need other trees nearby to cross pollinate with in order to produce fruit), but tend to produce more successfully if planted near other varieties. Trees begin producing fruit when they are 3 to 4 years old- 3 to 4 bushels from standard varieties and 1 to 2 bushels from dwarf varieties. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Thyme By Ellen Brown Description: Thyme is a highly aromatic herb that makes an attractive edging or perennial border and a culinary staple for any herb garden. Native to the Mediterranean, Thyme grows best in the cooler zones, where it is less prone to insect diseases that it is when grown in the south. These plants come in many varieties, but most only grow 6 to 12 inches in height, with dark green to gray leaves and pale pink flowers that appear at the tips of the stems in mid summer. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Strawberries By Ellen Brown Planning Tips: Strawberries will grow in the majority of zones (3-10) and can delight growers with a crop of berries in as little as three months after being planted. Junebearing strawberries produce a single crop in late spring and depending on your zone, cultivars can be planted in succession to spread out your harvest. Everbearing strawberries bear two crops each season, one in the spring and a second, smaller crop in the fall with some day-neutral cultivars producing continuously all season. Select plants that have been cultivated to resist the specific problems common to strawberries grown in your area. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Peaches By Ellen Brown Planning Tips: Peaches are hardy to zones 5-9. There are several varieties suitable for backyard landscapes, all of which need some period of cold weather before heading into the growing season. Large, vigorous, disease resistant cultivars, at least 1 year in age, are the best choices for planting. Standard-size trees will usually produce fruit at 3 years of age, and dwarf-size trees at 1 to 2 years of age. Most varieties are self-pollinating so you can plant just one tree and get a whole crop. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Blackberries By Ellen Brown Planning Tips: Blackberries grow well in zones 4 to 9. Choose hardy, virus-free plants cultivated to your specific growing zone. Because varieties have different growth habits (upright or trailing), plan ahead to create a training and support system to match the variety you select. Blackberries are self-fertile so you can plant just one cultivar and harvest a crop-usually 10 to 15 pounds of berries per season per mature (2 to 3 year-old) plant. More Growing Information: Click Here

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