Volume 1, Number 18, May 25, 2006
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Hello,
I hope everyone is having success in their gardens.
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Thanks for reading,
Susan
Today's newsletter contains:
Today's Photos:
Today's Tips and Articles:
New Requests:
Growing Guides:
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Today's Photos
Today's Tips and Articles
| Grow Your Own Food
Groceries, believe it or not, are the absolute easiest place to cut back your expenses. So I figure, whatever you can grow, especially if it re-seeds itself, you don't have to pay for except when you buy the seeds. My husband raises a great big garden because that's what he loves to do. We also have fruit trees and berries.
In my flower beds along with lots of blooms there are Egyptian walking onions, parsley, spinach, mustard greens, sage, tarragon, lettuce,lemon balm, feverfew, garlic, comfrey and more. I planted them 20 years ago, and they still come back every year. There is no garlic better than fresh (not dried) garlic to turn your entrees and garlic bread into pure ambrosia. All fresh herbs have better flavor fresh than dried. The green (Egyptian) onions and parsley are the main ingredients for tabouli, one of our favorites!
The thanksgiving turkey has sage in it, as do our cottage cheese patties. On top of using these herbs and veggies in cooking, I dry some for winter use and enter some in the fair. A blue ribbon pays $2, and a Best of Show pays $5. Last year my premium checks totaled $51! If I'd had the time, I could have entered the same items in the next county's fair the following week. They pay more for their premiums.
Maintaining a flower bed with herbs in it is a snap. I keep the weeds pulled and put composted manure on once or twice a year.
By Coreen from Rupert, ID
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Creating a Bed for Cut Flowers
By Ellen BrownIt's wonderful to walk through a garden of blooming flowers, and it's even more rewarding when you can enjoy some those fresh bouquets. Instead of having to choose between having some color outside or indoors, or worrying about over-cutting your beds and leaving them bare, why not designate a bed (or a few containers) just for planting flowers for cutting.
Site Selection & Planning
The majority of the flowers you plant for cutting will be annuals. Most of them prefer growing in full sun, and in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil. If you have the room, designate a spot away from the rest of the garden-a corner of the yard or even the vegetable garden. A small, 5 X 10 plot will produce an abundance of stems for cutting. Otherwise, simply plant your cutting flowers in with your other annuals and perennials. You can always do a little "potscaping" to fill in any bare spots when you've finished cutting.
Container gardeners can simply designate a pot or two for growing cut flowers, or better yet, plant seeds in small enough pots so they can be moved easily indoors when the flowers starting blooming.
Before you plant, make sure you amend the soil with compost and peat moss as necessary and water the area thoroughly after planting. Plan on adding a slow-release organic fertilizer periodically to give flowers a boost.
Start Out Small
Starting with mass plantings of 3 or 4 varieties is best. It may not seem like much of a variety, but you'll probably be supplementing your fresh arrangements with flowers from your perennial beds or using the branches from the trees and shrubs in your garden for fillers. By having more plants of just a few varieties, you'll be able to create more full arrangements and cover any losses incurred due to insects, disease or bad seeds.
Plant in Succession
To keep your cutting bed blooming like crazy, as soon as one group of flowers is harvested, you can pull up any remaining plant debris and immediately replant the area. This means you'll want to group plants with similar bloom times together for the sake of space and efficiency. An easy way to figure who to plant with whom, is to divide a piece of paper into three columns-spring, mid-season and fall-and write down when each variety will bloom.
Staking
Flowers suitable for cutting tend to have long stems. This means they may need to be staked. This is easy if you can plant your flowers in rows. You'll simply need to erect one long fence or support system along the entire length of the row. If you don't like staking, this can be somewhat minimized by planting flowers slightly closer together than recommended so that stems can support each other as they grow. Be careful not to plant them too close, however, or you'll end up compromising the size of your blooms.
The Right Time to Cut
Cut your flowers during the coolest part of the day-usually early morning. Before cutting, shake the stem gently to remove any visible insects. Use a sharp knife or a small garden shears to get a clean cut. Even the sharpest scissors can crush the vascular tissue to the stem and inhibit its ability to take up water. It's a good idea to take a bucket of tepid water with you to the cutting bed so you can put the cut ends in water immediately.
Keeping Flowers Fresh
To prepare flowers for an arrangement, strip off any leaves or flowers that will be underwater while in the vase. After determining the correct length of the stems for your arrangement, cut the ends at a 45º angle.
To feed your cut flowers, discourage bacteria and encourage water uptake, mix 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 teaspoon bleach, and 2 tablespoons lemon or lime juice in a quart of warm water. Cut stems will generally absorb lukewarm water more readily, but cold weather flowers, such as tulips, will keep better if placed in a vase of cold water. Keep fresh flower arrangements away from heat, direct sunlight, and ripening fruit. Check the vase's water level daily and remove and limp stems and flowers.
Plants for the Cutting Bed
Although many types of plants can be used in fresh arrangements, longer, strong-stemmed varieties of flowers are considered best for cutting. Here are only a few suggestions:
Annuals: Aster, Brazilian vervain, bells of Ireland, bachelor button, calendula, celosia, cosmos, dianthus, floss flower, globe flower, larkspur, marigold, love-in-the-mist, nasturtium, salvia, snapdragon, statice, sunflowers, sweet pea, verbena, and zinnia.
Perennials: carnations, chrysanthemums, columbine, coneflowers, daffodils, dahlia, daisies, gladiolus, heliopsis, lilac, Oriental lilies, peonies, phlox, Solomon's seal, tulips, and yarrow.
Filler Plants: ornamental grasses, ferns, artemisia, baby's breath, ivy, coleus, dusty miller, hostas, lamb's ears, lavender, dried seed pods, branches from evergreens, boxwood and dogwood.
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| Controlling Weeds When Growing Asparagus
Q: We have a 10' X 20" asparagus patch and would like tips on how to stop weeds from taking over. Can mulch be used? Thistle is a huge problem as well as the usual dandelions.
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Thanks for your help.
Kenn Ziebell from, Germantown, WI
A: Kenn,
The best way to control weeds in asparagus beds is to make sure the bed is completely weed-free before planting it. Once asparagus starts to grow, it becomes much more difficult to keep weeds under control. Established beds should be mulched with a weed-free straw or some other type of organic mulch in the early spring, just a shoots are starting to emerge. The few weeds that manage to grow up through the mulch can then be pulled out by hand. If your spears are all cut down to just below ground level, you can try spot spraying a topical organic weed killer on large weeds like dandelions and quack grass. Your asparagus spears will re-emerge as long as you're careful to apply the weed killer only to the weeds. Some sources suggest applying salt to the soil, as asparagus is more tolerant of salt than a lot of other plants. Salt does control weeks, but it can wash into other parts of the garden and damage less salt tolerant plants. It also breaks down the soils structure, so mulching is really the your best bet.
Ellen
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| Sweet Broom Not Blooming
Q: I have a sweet broom in a container, it is lush and green but just never seems to bloom. I read different things about this plant, like it requires no ferilizer and likes drought. I water it when dry since it is in a container and I did fertilize it the other day because I am trying to get it to bloom. I have had this plant about 2 years and it was only in bloom when I bought it new. Any ideas?
Hardiness Zone: 10b
Linda from Southern, CA
A: Linda,
If you have a lush green plant, your starting from a good place. Sweet Broom like full sun to partial shade, but with most shrubs, more sun equals better flowering. If your container is located in partial shade, try moving it to a location where it will get a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight per day. As for watering, established Sweet Broom plants only need to be watered deeply once per month. Also, if you're going to try to encourage your plant to flower by applying a fertilizer, use one that has a high ratio of phosphorus in proportion to nitrogen. Sweet Broom should be sheared back after flowering to promote fuller growth. If you didn't cut yours back when it flowered the first time, you might want to try cutting it back to see if that coaxes it into flowering. Sometimes a good pruning is enough to kick start a plant into performing.
Good Luck!
Ellen
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| Make Sure Your Pond is Large Enough for Koi
Before planning to host Koi in your pond make sure it is big enough and large enough to support the ecosystem of these delicate fish. Koi need lots of room to thrive in so it is recommended that the pond be at least five feet deep and be able to contain at least 1000 gallons or water. Otherwise the result will be dead fish and slimy water.
Tip By Hope Mason
http://www.lulu.com/spiritbooks
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| Starting Cuttings from an Azalea and a Rhododendron
Q: I was wondering if there was a way to start an azalea and a rhododendron? I have heard of people clipping a branch and putting it in water (for other plants) and wasn't sure if that were possible with them as well?
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Thank you VERY much!
Katie from PA
A: Katie,
You can start Azaleas and Rhododendrons with cuttings. Start with terminal 2 to 3 inch cuttings. Remove any leaves and flower buds. With a sharp knife, make a 1-inch slit on each side of the cutting near the base-just deep enough to cut through the bark. This will provide a space for the new roots to emerge. Dip the ends of cuttings in a rooting hormone and insert them 1-inch deep into a small container filled with moist, potting medium made from 50% peat and 50% perlite/vermiculite. Cover each container with a clear, plastic bag (to create a greenhouse effect) and set them in a bright location out of direct sunlight. Fertilizing or further watering shouldn't be necessary until they are transplanted. Root cuttings can be taken anytime, but they are usually most successful when taken in the fall and supplemented with artificial daylight. Take cuttings in the morning when their moisture content is highest. Be patient and expect them to take anywhere from 2 to 6 months to establish a good enough rot system for repotting. Plan on starting several in the even that some don't take. Once repotted, fertilizer them once a month.
Ellen
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| Keeping Cats out of the Garden
Q: I'm sure you've been asked this question a hundred times already... but here goes anyhow. First off, I live in a duplex with a fenced-in back yard. I am fortunate in the fact that I have some space in which to garden for veggies and have a nice flower patch along with a few rose bushes. My problem is my neighbor's CATS. Don't get me wrong, I do love cats, just not in my back yard. I have an old dog but would not want to use anything that would either hurt my dog or the cats. I just want to be able to get them out of my yard and keep them out (except for Bogie, of course). Other than spraying them with the water hose when I see them, do you have any other suggestions that would be workable in keeping the cats out of my yard?
Hardiness Zone: 7a
Thank you and God bless...
Mary from Redding, CA
A: Mary,
First of all, it's unfortunate that your neighbors feel it's okay to let their cats roam freely about the neighborhood. Not only does it put backyard wildlife in jeopardy, but also, it's dangerous for the cats. Fortunately for your neighbors, you're a cat lover. Good fences should make for good neighbors. Since your neighbors are not getting the message, start by asking them for help in keeping the cats out of your garden. Explain that you don't want to worry about their cats ingesting harmful plants and that you worry about being able to consume (and share with your neighbors) any edibles that have been grown in soil contaminated by cat feces (it is dangerous). Maybe you could offer your neighbors a pot of catnip to place in their yard to act as a distraction, or even designate a small spot in your yard (well away from the rest of your beds) for growing catnip, or cat thyme.
If there are specific areas that cats seem to be favoring in your garden, try spreading chicken wire, pine cones, rock mulch or prickly holly to deter them from scratching and digging. You could also try Cat-Scat mats, available at garden centers, which are mats made with flexible spikes that won't hurt them, but will keep them out of your beds. Disposable plastic forks (tines up) will also work when stuck in pots or around ornamental plants. Just be sure not to place them in areas where cats will jump down and land on them (like below balconies, etc).
Good Luck!
Ellen
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| Keeping Ornamental Fish Alive in the Winter
If you are trying to keep ornamental fish outdoors during the winter but find that they don't seem to be surviving the season the culprit is your pond liner. It is simply not deep enough to allow the Koi fish to find a place to hibernate for the winter. Choose a plastic pond liner shell that is at least four or five feet deep so that they have a chance to survive the cold winter weather.
Tip By Hope Mason
http://www.lulu.com/spiritbooks
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| Caring for Orchids
Q: I just got an Orchid as a gift. I do not know how to care for them. Water? Light? Food? HELP!
Thanks very much.
Robyn from Kent, WA
A: Robyn,
Each type of orchid has its own special needs regarding care, but there are some general rules.
1. Orchids generally need daytime temperatures of about 70ºF in the summer, and 60ºF in the winter. Cool temperatures at night (a drop of around 10ºF) are also important. Setting orchids outdoors during warm summer days is okay, but they should be protected against frost and cold drafts.
2. Orchids need generous amounts of light (10-12 hours a day), but should be shaded from direct sunlight. A window with lace curtains or something similar to filter the sunlight is ideal. In the winter, artificial light can be used to supplement a lack of natural daylight. Make sure you turn the pots often to promote even growth.
3. Orchids need moist, humid air, so mist leaves occasionally and place pots on a pebble tray to help maintain humidity.
4. Water orchids with distilled, tepid water. Keep the soil moist, not wet, and reduce watering in the winter.
5. Orchids enjoy being kept somewhat pot-bound and should be only be repotted when the size of the pot seems to be impeding their growth. Plants can be divided during repotting, leaving at least 3 shoots on each division. Potting mix designed specifically for orchids works well when repotting.
6. How you fertilize orchids depends on what type of orchid you're growing and whether or not it goes seasonally dormant. Seasonally dormant orchids do not need feeding in the winter. In general, a balanced liquid orchid fertilizer (preferably organic) can be applied weekly to promote growth and one with a higher ratio of phosphorus can be used to promote flowering. The plant should be watered beforehand to avoid root burn. Orchids growing in bark may need more nitrogen.
Good Luck! Ellen
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| Drilling a Well
Q: I am thinking about drilling my own water well for watering my lawn and garden. Does anyone have any helpful hints on doing this and what it take and cost? Any help would be appreciated. I am pretty handy with handy work so there's not much I won't tackle.
Thanks,
Joe from Texas
A: Joe,
Before undertaking such an ambitious task, be sure to check with local authorities about permit requirements. If you're just looking for a low-yield, shallow well for the purpose of garden irrigation, you may be able to dig it yourself (with the proper permits, of course). You'll need to consider the area's geology and land surface features (like slopes and drainage) to determine a good location for the well. Make sure that factors like accessibility for cleaning and maintenance also figure into your plan and have the water tested to make sure it's safe for irrigating your lawn and garden plants.
My suggestion would be to call local contractors, or even garden centers and find out if they know of anyone in your area who has successfully dug a well for similar purposes. Local well drillers should be able to shed some light on the geological aspects of what you can expect, and if a shallow well is even a possibility. If it turns out that a deeper well is needed to access water, it will most likely be less costly to keep paying the additional costs associated with the seasonal differences in your water bill.
Ellen
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| Will Lilac Bushes Deter Deer?
Q: We enjoy having deer come into our backyard from the woods. If I planted a lilac bush, would it deter the deer from coming? Or do deer just not feed on lilac bushes?
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Sandy from Alton, IL
A: Sandy,
Lilacs will not deter the deer from coming into your backyard. No plants will. Lilacs are considered deer-resistant, however, meaning that unless the deer in your area are feeling pressure from a lack of available food, chances are they will pass lilacs up in favor of other, more appealing plants. Supposedly, plants like catmint, lavender, thyme, sage and rosemary are also repulsive to deer. In fact, many plants with a strong smell, like marigolds for example, are likely to act as a grazing deterrent when planted near more tasty plants like your veggies, tulips or hosta. The only sure-fire way to deter deer from exploring your garden buffet is to have your dog stand watch in the yard or erect an 8-ft high fence. So go ahead and plant a lilac bush, just understand that you could eventually find yourself enjoying watching the deer while they nibble on its branches.
Ellen
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Eight Reasons Your Lilac Bush Won't Bloom
By Ellen BrownAs far as a shrubs go, lilacs are a dream come true for the gardener. Once established, these landscaping beauties will throw out heavenly-scented, long-lasting blooms for years and years-and all with very little care and maintenance on our part. Why is it then, after weeks and weeks of anticipation and doing everything right, your lilacs always fail to bloom? Here are the eight most common reasons.
Reason #1: It's Not Getting Enough Sun
The fact that lilacs prefer being located on a site with full sun is an understatement. To thrive and flower, lilacs need a MINIMUM of 6 hours of sunlight every day. If your lilac bush is not blooming, check to see if your site is too shady.
Reason #2: It's Too Young
A lilac will not bloom before its time, and most varieties of lilacs won't bloom until they reach at least 3 to 6 years of age. Years 1-3 are spent growing and developing. Only then, and only when they are good and ready, will they produce their first blooms. When they finally do bloom, the first few years can be less than spectacular. Don't worry, be patient. It's worth the wait. Hint: Most lilacs purchased in containers have passed their first birthday and started to develop a good root system. They will generally flower sooner than bare-root shrubs.
Reason #3: It's Over Fed
Imagine stuffing yourself full of food and then trying to perform something that requires you to expend lots of energy (think Thanksgiving). This is how it is for lilacs getting too much nitrogen. The primary nutrients in fertilizers are Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium (on the fertilizer package, they are listed in this order, N-P-K). Nitrogen promotes growth above ground. Phosphorus promotes growth below the ground (roots) and is most responsible for flowering. (Potassium helps with overall growth.) Using a fertilizer high in nitrogen will encourage your lilacs to produce an abundance of green leaves, while at the same time, prevent it from flowering. Fertilizing lilacs is not mandatory, and if your soil is nutrient-rich, your lilacs won't need feeding more than once per year in the early spring (if at all). When you fertilize, use a fertilizer with twice the ratio of phosphorus to nitrogen in order to promote flowering. Remember, grass craves nitrogen, so if you're fertilizing your lawn your lilacs may be getting over fed.
Reason #4: It's In Shock
If you've recently purchased a lilac for transplanting, it may still be adjusting to its new environment. Even if it was blooming when you bought it, you shouldn't expect it to bloom for the next year or two following transplanting. Lilacs need a fairly long period to settle in You may need to wait as much as 3 years before it fully recovers.
Reason #5: It's Dry
Lilacs don't like their feet constantly wet, but summer droughts can take a toll on the next year's flower buds. Keep your lilac on a regular watering schedule and adjust it for heavy rain or extended periods of drought.
Reason #6: You're Improperly Pruning
If you wait too long to prune (after midsummer) you're going to be cutting off next year's flower buds. Pruning should be done immediately after flowers die off, because next year's buds form shortly thereafter. If your lilac bush has become overgrown, cut back only the oldest 1/3 of the shrub each year over a period of 3 years.
Reason #7 : Your Soil's Imbalanced
Lilacs prefer a soil pH from 6 to 7 (a little on the alkaline side). If your soil is too acidic, or missing certain nutrients, your lilacs won't bloom. And testing your soil is the only way to know. Inexpensive test kits are available at more garden centers, or for the most accurate test, contact your county extension agency for labs in your area. If the results indicate your soil is too acidic, the International Lilac Society suggests spreading fireplace ash around the drip line of the bush for bigger and better blooms.
Reason #8: You're Growing the Wrong Variety
If you've purchased you lilacs from a reputable local nursery, this probably isn't your problem. Still, large discount garden centers sometimes stock zone inappropriate plants and shrubs. Most common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) need a cold winter to allow it to set buds. If you live in an area of mild winters, a Meyer lilac (Syringa meyeri) may be a better choice for your garden.
If none of these reasons can be applied to your situation, consider giving your bush a light root pruning in early summer. Jam a sharp spade into the ground on two sides of the plant about 12 inches out from the trunk. And maybe next year will be the year!
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| Have a Plant Swap
Have a block or community exchange of plants: seeds, plants, gardening tools, etc.
By Anne from Nevada
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| Preventing Animals from Drowning In Your Pond
If you live in a rural area that is populated by a lot of small wild animals then avoid using the kind of pond liner that is like a plastic sheet. This type of liner is placed over a hole in the ground that you have dug yourself. The result is often a slippery slope into the pond and animals drown. To avoid the problem of finding dead animals in your pond (or dead children if you live in an area with a lot of toddlers) invest in a prefabricated tub that has a stair like structure so the creature can hoist itself out.
Tip By Hope Mason
http://www.lulu.com/spiritbooks
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New Requests
| Is Cypress Mulch Safe for Dogs?
We have six dogs and my yard has a lot of trees with half dirt and half grass. I just bought cypress mulch to go on the dirt but someone said it was harmful to the dogs. Is this true and can you give me some dog friendly suggestions for the yard?
Thank you,
Pam from Scottsboro, AL
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| Animal Eating My Tomato Plants
I have planted my tomatoes twice during the past week. Each time some animal has cut the tops off about 4 inches above the ground. He usually eats the tops and leaves the stems sticking out of the ground. What is doing this and what can I do about it?
I want to plant again but this is getting expensive. Please help!
Hardiness Zone: 4b
Sanddd from Minnesota
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| Growing Cantaloupes
I am trying to grow cantaloupes. The plant is growing and has blooms. When can I expect the actual fruit to show. Also will it come from a bloom? Your help is appreciated.
Joe from Texas
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| Cutting Back Hummingbird Vines
Do you have to cut Hummingbird vines back to the ground each year?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thanks,
PJ488 from Sanford, ME
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| Chunks Missing From Leaves
I started some plants from seeds in peat pots and repotted a couple in larger pots. Now I notice some leaves have big chunks missing. I am looking for bugs, all I see is tiny black spots about the size of pepper granules. When I go to the store to find a spray to kill bugs, I am overwhelmed at the variety of things available, the knowledge you are required to have of the exact insect you are dealing with, the toxicity of the products, the expense. Does anyone know of something cheap you would already have around the house that would kill these mysterious bugs and give my little plants a break?
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Dust Bunny HK from Denver, Colorado
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| Homemade Cake for a Squirrel and Bird Feeder
I have a squirrel and bird feeder, you can't put in loose bird and squirrel food, it has to be in cake form. The cakes cost $4.00 and they don't last very long. Is there a way to make a homemade cake with a bag of loose bird or squirrel food?
Hardiness Zone: 6b
Erica from Tennessee
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| Making Concrete Patio Blocks
Has anyone ever made concrete patio blocks? I have directions, but wondered if it's too messy, do the blocks really last, etc.
Thanks,
cindyluhu from Melbourne, FL
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| Controlling Ants
We live in an area where there is a lot of white sand and acres of pine trees. We've cleared out a couple of acres to live on, but are having trouble with ants; small, large, black and fire. How can we control them? We have ant mounds every few yards.
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Linda from Mauk, GA
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| Dying Japanese Maple Tree
We have 2 small Japanese maple trees in our front yard. One of them is mostly dead with a small amount of leaves on the bottom. the other did very well over the winter. I'm wondering if there's a way that I can trim the one and graft it or plant it with the one that didn't do so well. How would I go about doing that?
Hardiness zone: 6a
Tina from Pontiac, MI
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Growing Guides
Growing: Daffodil (Jonquil)
By Ellen Brown
| Botanical Name: | Narcissus |
| Life Cycle: | perennial bulb |
| Planting Time: | fall |
| Height: | 10" to 18" |
| Exposure: | full sun to light shade |
| Soil: | rich, well-drained soil |
| Hardiness: | zones 3 to 10 |
| Bloom Time: | late winter or early spring |
| Flower: | white, yellow (or combinations of the two), pink, orange and gold; single, double or clusters of cup-shaped flowers surrounded by 6 leaves |
| Foliage: | green |
| Propagation: | bulbs |
| Suggested Use: | beds, borders, walkways and containers |
| Growing Hints: | Purchase bulbs for planting in the summer or fall. Plant bulbs two times as deep as the bulb is tall (about 4 to 6 inches below the surface). If you have heavy clay soil, prepare holes with plenty of peat for drainage or consider planting bulbs in raised beds or containers. Daffodils don't like soggy soil. Plant bulbs in large groups for the greatest color. Choose cultivars from divisions that bloom at slightly different times to keep flowers continuously blooming. |
| Shopping Hints: | "Landscape-size" or "single-nose" bulbs are three years old and produce one flower stem the first season. These bulbs are usually the least expensive. "Bedding-size" or double-nose" bulbs are four years old and produce two stems the first season. "Exhibition-size" or "triple-nose" bulbs are five years old and produce three or more flower stems the first season. They are also the most expensive. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Chionodoxa (Glory of the Snow, Snow Glories)
By Ellen Brown
| Botanical Name: | Chionodoxa forbesii |
| Life Cycle: | perennial bulb |
| Planting Time: | fall |
| Height: | 4" to 7" |
| Exposure: | full sun |
| Soil: | well-drained |
| Hardiness: | zones 4 to 8 |
| Bloom Time: | early spring |
| Flower: | variety of colors including blue, white, pink, violet and purple |
| Foliage: | green, long narrow leaves with lengthwise pleats |
| Propagation: | rhizomes, corms, bulbs or seeds |
| Suggested Use: | beds, borders, containers and cut flowers |
| Growing Hints: | Plant in fall from rhizomes, corms or bulbs (including offsets) or if you have the patience, start the plants from seeds sown directly into the garden in the fall. Glory of the Snow appreciates moist soil so keep plants watered consistently through the growing season. To save seeds in fall, allow pods to dry on plant and then break open to collect seeds. |
| Interesting Facts: | Plant Glory of the Snow beneath deciduous trees. They prefer full sun, but will complete their cycle in the spring before trees have a chance to leaf out. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Acidanthera (Peacock Orchid)
By Ellen Brown
| Botanical Name: | Gladiolus callianthis |
| Life Cycle: | perennial bulb |
| Planting Time: | spring |
| Height: | 24" to 36" |
| Exposure: | full sun |
| Soil: | rich, well-drained soil |
| Hardiness: | zones 7-11 |
| Bloom Time: | mid summer to fall |
| Flower: | white hooded flowers with maroon centers; fragrant |
| Foliage: | green |
| Propagation: | bulbs |
| Suggested Use: | beds, borders, cut flowers and mass plantings |
| Growing Hints: | Plant in clusters of 5-7 for best show. In the spring, Corms should be planted three inches deep and six inches apart. This plant requires a long growing season (up to 20 weeks) and should be started indoors 1 month before the last frost in northern zones. Water regularly while in bloom and cover plants with mulch if frost arrives during flowering. In the fall, bulbs can be left in the ground to spread or lifted, cleaned and stored in sand at 60º F for winter (zones 6 and north should always lift bulbs). Corms need to be dried quickly to avoid soft rot. The small bulblets that form around the main corm can also be separated and replanted. |
| Interesting Facts: | The peacock orchid is related to the gladiolus, not orchids. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Verbascum (Ornamental Mullein)
By Ellen Brown
| Botanical Name: | Verbascum |
| Life Cycle: | perennial, biennial |
| Planting Time: | spring |
| Height: | 3' to 6' |
| Exposure: | full sun |
| Soil: | average to rich, well-drained soil |
| Hardiness: | zones 5 to 8 |
| Bloom Time: | summer |
| Flower: | variety of colors or flower spikes on branched stems |
| Foliage: | silver green leaves |
| Propagation: | division, seeds |
| Suggested Use: | beds, borders, containers, cottage gardens, cut flowers and hummingbird gardens, culinary garnish and potpourri. |
| Growing Hints: | Purchase plants or start seeds indoors several weeks before the last frost (they take up to two weeks to germinate). Root cuttings can be taken in the fall and grown indoors over winter or in a greenhouse or cold frame for transplanting in the spring. Verbascum hybrids are usually somewhat short- lived in the garden. They form large silver stalks full of rosettes the first year and produce flowers the second year. Avoid over watering these plants and you'll avoid root rot. Apply a slow release fertilizer during the second season. Divide plants carefully in the spring of the third season to reinvigorate growth. |
| Interesting Facts: | Mulleins are somewhat deer resistant. These flowers are also said to have medicinal properties that ease digestive ailments. Widely distributed throughout the United States, wild species of common mullein are considered an ecological threat and a highly invasive species. They crowd out other native plants in a hurry and are difficult to eradicate once established. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Yarrow
By Ellen Brown
| Botanical Name: | Achillea millefolium |
| Life Cycle: | perennial |
| Planting Time: | spring |
| Height: | 12" to 36" |
| Exposure: | full sun |
| Soil: | average to rich, well-drained soil; adaptable to poor conditions |
| Hardiness: | zones 3-9 |
| Bloom Time: | summer to fall |
| Flower: | a variety of colors (pink, yellow and white) in a variety of shapes (flat-umbel, button or daisy) |
| Foliage: | green feathery foliage |
| Propagation: | seeds and division |
| Suggested Use: | beds, borders, cut flowers, slopes and hot and airy dry sites |
| Growing Hints: | Start with purchased plants or sow seeds indoors in early winter if you want plants to flower the first year. Deadhead flowers to prolong blooming period and divide them every 3 to 5 years in the spring or fall if they get crowded. |
| Interesting Facts: | Cut flowers will last longer if Yarrows are picked when about half the buds in the clusters have opened. Add them to a vase with 2 to 3 inches of water in the bottom. If you plan on drying them, don't replace the water in the vase once it's gone-the flower will dry right in the vase. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Crocus
By Ellen Brown
| Botanical Name: | Crocus |
| Life Cycle: | perennial bulb |
| Planting Time: | fall |
| Height: | 3" to 6" |
| Exposure: | full sun |
| Soil: | poor to average, well-drained soil |
| Hardiness: | zones 3 to 9 |
| Bloom Time: | early spring or early fall |
| Flower: | yellow, purple, lavender and white blooms |
| Foliage: | green |
| Propagation: | corms |
| Suggested Use: | beds, borders and containers |
| Growing Hints: | Buy spring flowering crocus corms to plant in the fall (or vise versa). Plant in groups of a dozen or more for the best show. Plant them at a depth of 3 to 4 inches spaced about 3 inches apart. |
| Interesting Facts: | The small red parts in the center of each crocus blooms are the source of the spice saffron-the spice used to add delicate flavor to dishes or used to color food yellow. To save your own saffron, after your crocus blooms, remove and dry the red stigmata from the flower and store in an airtight container. |
More Growing Information: Click Here |
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