"First, be sure you do have power to the garage door opener. If so, this problem is probably a bad printed circuit board inside the main power head. Circuit boards are very easy parts to replace. The entire list of circuit boards available for the Genie openers is found on our site here:" (site no longer exists)
The above description generally describes the problem I am having with my garage door opener. However, I realized that if I unplug the opener power cord and replug it to the power outlet in the ceiling, the opener would respond again. But it would fail again later on, i.e a few days later. Any clue for the real issue? If indeed it is the circuit board at fault, how do I replace or trouble shoot the circuit board? I don't have owner's manual, but I believe it is Sears.
Could have something to do w/ the opener losing the "code" to make it work. No longer having the correct code to correspond from the remote to the actual opener unit. Can be reset. But if the button hard-wired to the wall doesn't operate the unit either, then I guess this wouldn't be your problem. Might help someone else, though.
Is the problem happening from the wall unit or just the remote control? I have a Sears garage door opener and my remote was not working. The little antenna wire that hangs down was very dusty so I wiped it off, then got up on a ladder and reset the code on the remote. It's easy, just a push of a button on the back of the unit. I went to the website and there was a troubleshooting page and this helped me out and saved me money as I had already begun to shop for a new opener!. Not sure if this is your problem, but maybe it'll help! Good luck.
I sorta have the same problem , only my garage door wont go down using the remote. but will with the switch wired on the wall inside the garage. Any sugestions out there for me. Other than calling a garage door repair man.
I have a sears. will not open with either opener. You can hear a click and the light will go on. In addition. It appears that the lights on the safety senors are not on nor will they come on with ajustment
Curran46 @ aol.com (remove spaces)
HAVE LITTLE RANGE FOR OPENER REMOTES. WOULD ALUMINUM SIDING AFFECT RECEPTION? IF SO WHAT TRICKS CAN BE USED? THANKS
How can I fix this problem. Green light blinks on remote and sound coming from the unit, but will not open or close the door.
my remotes and garage button will not operate the door. There is a green light on the remotes and a sound coming from the opener. This sound is like a click zberocc @ wowway .com
if you have a "magic eye" the door wont close if anything is in its way. ttok me a couple of weeks to figure this out. I could shut/open the door manually but the remote would not work because something was blockng the reader thing. Its a safety device incase anybody gets stuck as the door is going down
My problem was my belt was slipping and i had no idea.So now whether i use my remote or the button I have to get a stick and hit the belt and off or rather up she goes.Does the same thing with the down option.Have been living with this for a while.Will get new replacement when I have no other choice.
My door open and stops like it gets hung up it is belt driven.
I just replaced the gear and sprocket assembly on my Sears 1/2 hp opener. Installation was easy, but when I hooked up the unit to the door, the motor would only move the door a few inches before reversing, as if the electric eye or safety reverse was working. I adjusted the travel screws and safety reverse, with no effect.
I then repeated the installation. When I tested the unit on my bench, the same thing happened--the motor reversed itself after just a few seconds.
Did I miss something in the installation?
I have a Genie 1/2 HP garage door opener. The wall mounted switch does not work. All transmitters will open and close. Checked the wires from wall mount to motor for breaks nothing found. Purchased a swith (thought old one was bad), no change. How can I determine what part needs to be replaced with out draining my wallet one part at a time
I have the same problem as posted by John Abbott i.e. the motor would only move the door a few inches before reversing, as if the electric eye or safety reverse was working. Tried increasing the downward force, howver, no improvement. Any suggestions for fixing this problem?
My son placed a metal object next to one of the sensors and all of a sudden the door won't even close. I now have no power coming from wall mount or remoteless pad. I unplugged the opener to check if it will reset itself but still nothing. What do you recommend? All wires stll in place no disconnections.
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