Volume 1, Number 22, June 22, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com
Hello,
We have lots of gardening requests today. Please look them over and see if you have any advice to offer.
We are happy to announce that we will start publishing a Craft
Newsletter! The first issue will come out on Saturday, it will
be a weekly newsletter full of craft tips, recipes and requests.
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Happy Gardening!
Susan
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Today's newsletter contains:
Today's Photos:
Today's Tips and Articles:
New Requests:
Growing Guides:
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Today's Photos
| Washington Rhododendron in May
On a grey, wet, May day in Western Washington, the state flower (rhododendron) adds a little color.
By Dineen from Burien, WA
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| Backyard Oasis
My "Oasis" is in my backyard. A project all my own. My husband was a bit skeptical in the beginning, but now is quite enjoying it. It's pretty in the winter, but serene, private, shaded from the hot Georgia sun in the Spring/Summer when the leaves return. It's a beautiful and relaxing place to relax when gardening or to just sit and read a book. I believe it's always a work in progress.
By Amie Kieffer from Atlanta, GA
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Today's Tips and Articles
| Cutting Back a Yellow Trumpet Vine
Q: My yellow trumpet vine has never flowered after a few years. I just read your advice to cut it way back before it gets its leaves. Is it too late to do it now? I trimmed some of the longer branches, but it is starting to get leaves. Can I still cut it way back?
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Thanks,
Patty from Pine Bush, NY
A: Patty,
It sounds as though your vine is still pretty young. If it has only been a few years since you planted it, don't worry about cutting it. Prune it or cut it back to keep it from growing out of control, but otherwise you can leave it alone. Trumpet vines can take as long as 5 years before they flower for the first time. For the first few years (or longer), the vines tend to put their energy into elongating their stems more so than producing leaves and flowers. Because this vine flowers on new growth, it's best to do any serious pruning either after it flowers or in the fall or early spring. Severe pruning is best left for well-established plants that need to be reinvigorated. Lateral, rather than vertical growth will encourage the most flowers so you can pinch back some of the new shoot ends to help balance their growth in a horizontal direction. I've heard of trumpet vines taking as long as 10 years before flowering, so try and be patient and hope that you have a vine genetically predisposed to blooming at an early age.
Ellen
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| Is Cypress Mulch Safe for Dogs?
Q: We have six dogs and my yard has a lot of trees with half dirt and half grass. I just bought cypress mulch to go on the dirt but someone said it was harmful to the dogs. Is this true and can you give me some dog friendly suggestions for the yard?
Thank you,
Pam from Scottsboro, AL
A: Pam,
The safest thing to do is ask your veterinarian, but most animal experts recommend using cypress (and other wood mulches) as a safe alternative to cocoa shells (which can be highly toxic in small amounts-especially when ingested by dogs). I'd like to add my two cents in here about the environmental impact of using cypress mulch and suggest that you select an alternative wood mulch (or straw, leaves, stones, etc). Much of the cypress harvested for mulch comes from the gulf coast. Harvesting it results in the destabilization of the coastal wetlands that would normally act as a buffer to storm surges and flooding. These wetland also provide homes to numerous wildlife species. As you know, since hurricane Katrina the entire gulf coast has continued to struggle with rebuilding. Some of the cypress mulch seen in garden stores this season has been packaged in such a way as to persuade the buyer that by purchasing it, they are actually helping to financially support the rebuilding of gulf coast communities. What people don't realize is that they are unknowingly promoting the destabilization of the area's only natural protection against the flooding brought on by hurricanes. For more information visit this website: http://www.waterkeeper.org/mainarticledetails.aspx%3Farticleid=235
Ellen
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| What Size Pot Does My Weeping Willow Need?
Q: I have a weeping willow tree that is about 1 foot tall right now and I want to know how long I can leave it in a pot and what size pot it needs. It currently is in a 1 gallon nursery pot. I would appreciate advice.
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thanks,
Sue from Centralia, WA
A: Sue,
Unless you plan on keeping your willow as a container tree for a few years, I wouldn't put off transplanting it in the ground for too long. A 1 gallon container is small for the fast growing roots of a weeping willow. You can move it into a larger container for now if you plan on keeping it as a balcony or patio container for another 2 to 3 years, but otherwise it's best to transplant in the ground as soon as possible. When sizing up in containers, it's generally accepted that a vertical growing plant needs transplanting when it reaches twice the height of the container it's growing in. If you plan to keep on potting up, keep in mind that you risk loosing your tree from transplant shock every time you move it to a new pot. If you transplant it into the ground, it only has to suffer through this shock once. Of course, with the proper root pruning (like in bonsai trees), even large trees can last for many years in smaller containers. Root pruning is pretty labor intensive, however, especially as trees grow larger. If left in a small container too long, your tree will eventually start showing signs of being pot bound. Then even with the proper light, water and fertilization the leaves will be small and it will show a general loss of vigor.
Ellen
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Understanding the N-P-K of Organic Fertilizers
By Ellen BrownIf you took a biology class in high school or a botany class in college, you probably learned the basics of plant chemistry and maybe even learned a useful tidbit or two about using organic fertilizers. Unfortunately, if you're like me, most of that information has long since faded from your memory. Because shopping for fertilizers can be so overwhelming, here's a refresher course on what you need to know.
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| Keeping Plants Alive When You're Away
Q: I'm going out of the country for June, July and August, the hottest months of the year, and I am looking for advice on how to keep my plants alive for the duration. They are all in containers and include a rose bush, tomatoes, peppers, mint, and a few others. For the grass I can use sprinklers, but the plants? Thanks very much in advance.
My hardiness zone is 8-10
BK from Milpitas, CA
A: BK,
Leaving plants in the summer is much more perilous that taking off for a week or two mid-winter. The plants are actively growing now and require much greater amounts of water. Ideally, if you're going to be away for that length of time, you would want to hire a plant sitter. This could be a friend or someone who advertising this service. Contact local garden centers and nurseries for suggestions. If you can't find a plant sitter (or don't have a friend that can drop by), you can try setting up an automatic watering system in your bathtub.
- Several weeks before your trip, start collecting plastic buckets (lids are not necessary). Punch a small hole in the center of the bottom of each bucket and stop fertilizing your plants.
- Buy inexpensive candle wicks and using a tweezers, push one end of the wick up into the pot through the drainage hole on the bottom. Make sure it's in contact with the compost in the pot. You might want to experiment with this for a few weeks before you leave to ensure the plant is able to draw water up through the wick.
- If possible, trim plants that can stand pruning back so they require less water.
- On the day you leave, water all of the plants thoroughly from the top until water runs out the drain hole. Place damp peat moss or mulch around the top of the pots to keep soil moist.
- Group the plants together in the bathtub. Use the plastic buckets you collected (bottom side up) as plant pedestals. Run the self-watering wicks from the bottom of the pots down through the hole in the bucket so it will dangle in the water when you fill the tub.
- Fill the bathtub with tepid water. One quarter full? Your guess is as good as mine. Just don't fill it so full the buckets start to float. You might need to punch some holes in the side of the buckets to let water in (and air out).
- Shut the shower curtain/door, and make sure the blinds or curtains on any windows in the room are closed at least _ way. Less light will slow down growth and the plants will require less water.
I have no experience leaving plants for this amount of time, so saying a few prayers won't hurt either-one for the plants, and the other one for the bathtub not to spring a leak!
Ellen
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| Getting Rid Of Trumpet Vines
Q: I have 2 trumpet vines in a garden with many other beautiful perennials. When I planted them I was young and dumb and now I would like to know how to get rid of them. They pop up all over and I just keep cutting them off at the stem because I don't want to get rid of my other plants. Any ideas?
Hardiness zone: 6a
Peg from Cecil, OH
A: Peg,
For some gardeners, trumpet vines are beauty and the beast all in one plant. Trumpet vines propagate three ways: by seed, by rooting wherever the plants touch the ground and by underground runners. Because of this, you're going to have to take a three-pronged approach to stopping all of these voluntary seedlings from popping up.
First of all, deadhead and collect (remove) all of the mother vines' seeds. Second, make sure you keep the parent plants pruned to stop them from touching the ground and rooting. Third, the best way to deal with the underground runners pushing up new seedlings is to keep digging them up.
Unfortunately, as long as you have parent plants, you're always going to have runners. Herbicides are not effective because the treatments will only last until the parent plants send out new shoots. If you want to get rid of the shoots for good, you're going to have to dig up both of the mother plants and replace them with something less invasive. Even after that, you can expect to spend somewhere in the neighborhood of 5 to 6 years pulling up any new shoots that emerge.
Eventually the plant will give up, but it's going to take an awful lot of persistence and patience on your part. Even if you don't want to get rid of both vines, by getting rid of just one you'll theoretically be eliminating at least half your problem.
Good luck!
Ellen
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Gardening With Allergies
By Ellen BrownGardens should be a respite from the stresses of everyday, but for gardeners who suffer from hay fever and other allergies, certain plants and weather conditions can make gardening more miserable than tranquil. Here are some tips to help make your time gardening relaxing and sneeze-free.
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| Cutting Back Hummingbird Vines
Q: Do you have to cut Hummingbird vines back to the ground each year?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thanks,
PJ488 from Sanford, ME
A: PJ488,
There are several vines referred to as hummingbird vines. The most popular is the perennial vine Campus radicans, also called Trumpet Creeper or Trumpet Vine. If this is the vine you're referring to, the short answer here is no. Hummingbird vines only need to be cut back if you need to keep its growth in check, you want to shape the direction of its growth, clean up debris, or re-invigorate an established vine that isn't producing flowers. Because trumpet vines flower on the current season's growth (new wood), any severe pruning should be left for the late fall or early spring and then only cut them back to 10 inches or so. Periodic selective pruning (thinning) can be done anytime of the year and is best done on the smaller, younger stems. Keep in mind that hummingbird vines are considered invasive in many growing zones. Even the annual varieties sow seeds freely. To avoid voluntary seedlings (that are very difficult to get rid of) deadhead flowers and collect seeds to keep the vines from reseeding.
Ellen
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| Keeping Cats out of the Garden
Q: How can I keep the neighbor's cat out of my garden?
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Windella from Pasadena, CA
A: Windella,
This question really comes up a lot and seems to be a universal problem among gardeners. There are a variety of tactics to keep the neighbor's cats out of the garden. First of all, talk to your neighbors about your concerns. Tell them you don't want their cats ingesting any harmful plants, you want to be able to consume your vegetables without worrying about contamination and you're worried about the safety of backyard birds. If your neighbors seem completely unreasonable, check with your city government about leash laws and make sure your neighbor knows that you will be forced to call animal control if the problem persists.
Other tactics to try:
- Planting a small plot of catnip or cat thyme in a corner of your yard to lure cats away from your garden. Plant it around a small sand box. Cats will always prefer using fine sand to using heavy garden soil. With luck, you can persuade your neighbor to provide an outdoor sandbox in HIS yard instead of yours.
- Spread prickly textures around the garden such as pine cones, holly leaves or rock mulch on newly turned over dirt. This will help to keep cats from using your garden soil as a litter box.
- Stick disposable plastic forks (tines up) in containers, window boxes or in other areas that cats seem to favor. Just make sure you don't stick these below places where cats can jump down on them from above. You might also try Cat-Scat Mats (available at garden centers). These are mats designed with flexible spikes to keep cats out of your garden without hurting them. You can cut them down to the size you need and most gardeners seem to think they work quite well.
- Install motion activated sprinklers, and never miss an opportunity to deter cats with a strong spray from the garden hose.
- Spread used tea leaves or citrus peels around plants.
- Lay chicken wire down (cats don't like digging in it) or cover plants with wire cages if necessary.
- Invest in commercial products like predator repellants or high-frequency sound emitters.
Good Luck!
Ellen
Q: I'm sure you've been asked this question a hundred times already... but here goes anyhow. First off, I live in a duplex with a fenced-in back yard. I am fortunate in the fact that I have some space in which to garden for veggies and have a nice flower patch along with a few rose bushes. My problem is my neighbor's CATS. Don't get me wrong, I do love cats, just not in my back yard. I have an old dog but would not want to use anything that would either hurt my dog or the cats. I just want to be able to get them out of my yard and keep them out (except for Bogie, of course). Other than spraying them with the water hose when I see them, do you have any other suggestions that would be workable in keeping the cats out of my yard?
Hardiness Zone: 7a
Thank you and God bless...
Mary from Redding, CA
A: Mary,
First of all, it's unfortunate that your neighbors feel it's okay to let their cats roam freely about the neighborhood. Not only does it put backyard wildlife in jeopardy, but also, it's dangerous for the cats. Fortunately for your neighbors, you're a cat lover. Good fences should make for good neighbors. Since your neighbors are not getting the message, start by asking them for help in keeping the cats out of your garden. Explain that you don't want to worry about their cats ingesting harmful plants and that you worry about being able to consume (and share with your neighbors) any edibles that have been grown in soil contaminated by cat feces (it is dangerous). Maybe you could offer your neighbors a pot of catnip to place in their yard to act as a distraction, or even designate a small spot in your yard (well away from the rest of your beds) for growing catnip, or cat thyme.
If there are specific areas that cats seem to be favoring in your garden, try spreading chicken wire, pine cones, rock mulch or prickly holly to deter them from scratching and digging. You could also try Cat-Scat mats, available at garden centers, which are mats made with flexible spikes that won't hurt them, but will keep them out of your beds. Disposable plastic forks (tines up) will also work when stuck in pots or around ornamental plants. Just be sure not to place them in areas where cats will jump down and land on them (like below balconies, etc).
Good Luck!
Ellen
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| Sharing the Bountiful Harvest
I am blessed with a husband who has a green thumb. He let some lettuce go to seed last fall, and this spring we have been inundated with a hundred heads or more of organically grown Bibb and oakleaf lettuce. We took a big bag of washed lettuce to church today and told everyone to take some home. We brought extra grocery bags so they could take what they wanted.
At first they were shy. But after much encouragement, and when the most well-to-do family helped themselves, the rest disappeared quickly. I think this is an example of the Lord providing so that even "poor folks" like us can be rich and have plenty to share. It made me feel rich and happy, and proud of my husband. We will share some more of the Lord's largesse next Sunday with our church family.
By Coreen from Rupert, ID
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| Burning Bush With Heat Shock
Q: Do burning bushes go dormant due to heat shock?
Hardiness zone: 7a
Dnujcar from Detroit, Michigan
A: Dnujcar,
It's possible, but highly improbable. These shrubs are slow growing, but they are rock solid and not usually susceptible to adverse environmental conditions. They also have very few pest problems, other than the occasional infestation of aphids. Burning bushes prefer moist, well-drained soil (slightly acidic) and full sun. However, they are also generally very adaptable to poor soil, alkaline soil, heat, drought, pollution, and shade. That said, how's your weather been? If your bushes are dropping leaves, although rare, it could be the result of a sudden (and significant) transition from cool to hot weather-especially if your shrubs are still young. If up to this point your bushes have been otherwise healthy, keep them on a regular watering schedule and they should bounce back just fine. If enough leaves are lost, most trees and shrubs will throw out a new set in time.
Ellen
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| Getting Seeds from Collard Greens
Q: I am growing collard greens and have many, many plants. I pick and cook the leaves regularly. Recently, I have noticed that 3 of my collard plants have began to go to seed and have beautifully yellow blooms from the seeds. How do I get these seeds and plant them so they can make more collard green plants? Is it too late after the blooms develop or can I cut of the bloom with stem and plant in the dirt? Please help.
Thanks,
Sheryl
A: Sheryl,
If you want to save the seeds from your collard greens, just leave some of the flowering plants alone to form seed pods. You'll be able to identify them easily once they form because they look almost like green beans. In fact, some people even eat them. The pods can be left to dry right on the plant in the same way you would leave bean pods to dry. Once dry, store them in a paper bag until you plant them. Cutting off the stem of the plant while it's blooming and planting it won't work. Collard greens are best grown from seed or by purchasing seedlings inexpensively from a nursery.
Good luck!
Ellen
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| Aerating Your Lawn
Q: Is there an inexpensive way to aerate my lawn?
Hardiness zone: 9b
Pattibc777 from Houston, TX
A: Pattibc777,
Aerating your lawn is a great way to revitalize hard, compact soil, prevent thatch from building up and encourage the growth of grass (while discouraging the growth of weeds). I've seen steel-spiked sandals advertised that strap on over your shoes and allow you to walk around the lawn and aerate it while mowing. These are usually priced around $12.99 or so, but with a little ingenuity (and an updated tetanus shot) you could also probably make your own (think strap-on wood blocks with 1 1/2 inch roofing nails). The idea is to punch holes about 1 1/2 inches deep over every few inches in your lawn. This allows air, nutrients and moisture to reach the root zone more easily. If you don't like the idea of tromping around in spiked sandals, you can use a pitchfork instead. Just make sure to wiggle the tines around a bit after punching them into the soil to make the holes bigger.
Ellen
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| Plants That Can Survive Near a Black Walnut Tree
Q: I am wondering about other folks who might be dealing with black walnut trees. Has anyone found anything that grew well around them? I've researched a lot but was wondering about some additional plants that might work.
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Kathy from Buffalo, NY
A: Kathy,
I'm not sure what your research has turned up so far, but if you're looking for plants to grow around your tree that are tolerant of juglone here are some more ideas.
- Flowers: aster, astilbe, bee balm, begonia, black-eyed Susan, bluebell, calendula, crocus, daylily, ferns, grape hyacinth, some hosta varieties, hollyhock, impatiens, Jack-in-the-pulpit, Jacob's ladder, marigold, morning glory, pansy, phlox, Siberian iris, squill, sweet woodruff, trillium and zinnia.
- Vegetables: beans, beets, carrots, corn, melons, onions, parsnip and squash.
- Shrubs and Vines: arborvitae, bittersweet, black raspberry, clematis, currant, forsythia, euonymus, greenbrier, hackberry, most honeysuckle, pachysandra, rose-of-Sharon, sumac, most viburnum, Virginia creeper, wild grape, wild rose, willow and witch hazel.
- Grasses: fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, orchard grass, soybean, timothy, wheat and white clover.
This list was put out by the University of Wisconsin, which is in Hardiness Zone 5A.
Good luck!
Ellen
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| Controlling Ants
Q: We live in an area where there is a lot of white sand and acres of pine trees. We've cleared out a couple of acres to live on, but are having trouble with ants; small, large, black and fire. How can we control them? We have ant mounds every few yards.
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Linda from Mauk, GA
A: Linda,
Anthills tend to be a seasonal problem, and unfortunately, they are most prevalent on sandy soil. Because you have so many mounds, your best bet is to treat as many of the individual mounds as you can with a broadcast bait. You will need to kill the queen to get rid of the whole colony. Realize, however, that this may only get rid of the ants temporarily, and that they may reappear elsewhere in the yard (hopefully farther out on your property) with a newly appointed queen.
In terms of a broadcast bait, you can make you own by mixing 1 cup of sugar, 4 teaspoons of boric acid and 24 ounces of water in a glass jar. Close the jar tightly and shake the mixture thoroughly until all the crystals dissolve. Pour 1 cup of this mixture into a smaller jar filled partially with cotton balls. Screw the lid back on, seal around the lid with weatherproof tape and punch a few small holes in the center of the lid. Draw a skull and cross bones on the jar as an extra precaution for passers-by and keep pets a children away from the jars!
Put one of these near the entrance to each mound. The ants will get into the jar to eat the sugar and return to the nest and pass it on to the rest of the colony. If you start to see a lot of dead ants next to the jar, the solution is too strong. Start over with a new solution containing less boric acid.
Diatomaceous earth is also said to act like a barrier if sprinkled around the mounds. To ants it's like crossing small pieces of glass and will encourage them to relocate mounds to a safer location. For fire ants, you can also try pouring half a cup of Epsom salts into the nest and all around it. Short of bulldozing the mounds and clearing more of your property, repeated flooding of the mounds can also be effective. You have to do this every few days, however, and be very persistent.
Good Luck!
Ellen
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New Requests
| Morning Glory Growing Slowly
I planted Morning Glory by seeds and they have sprouts. They are now 5 inches long but growing slowly. They are in full sun. What is the problem? I expected them to be full and climbing by now.
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Sal from Philadelphia, PA
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| Strawberries Not Blooming
My strawberry patch won't bloom very much this year. It is well established. Should I cut off the runners?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
WesternGal from Western South Dakota
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| Tips for Growing Sunflowers
I am having a sunflower growing competition with some friends! Could you give me some tips on how to help it grow and can I plant it and leave it in a pot.
Thanks,
Dizzymilly from Suderland, England
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| Killing Weeds With Vinegar
I need to know what percentage is used to kill weeds with vinegar and water. I still want to grow some plants at a later time. How much should they be saturated?
Hardiness Zone: 4a
Thanks,
Judtz from Deerbrook, WI
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| Hydrangea Won't Bloom
I have a hydrangea plant that is in its 3rd year. It gets mostly afternoon sun and morning shade. Why won't it bloom? My mom has one, too. We bought them together. She has blooms, I don't. I am jealous! Any advice?
Hardiness Zone: 4b
Lisa5 from Billings, MT
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| Transplanting Dogwood Seedlings
I have several dogwoods in my yard, and I frequently find what appears to be small dogwood seedlings growing around and about underneath them. Is this possible, and if I move them to an appropriate location, do they stand a good chance of successfully growing? Thanks!
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Tripleb from Greenville, AL
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| Getting Rid of a Rose of Sharon
I cut down a Rose of Sharon bush that had become a tree (!), which was growing up against my house. Now I have "suckers" coming up through the ground in an area about 10 feet all around where it was! Help! They are impossible to pull out of the ground (long roots). Is there any way to get rid of them? I am unable to remove the root system from the Rose of Sharon since it is very deep and mainly under my house.
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Thanks!
Kathy from Indianapolis
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| How often should I water my vegetables?
How often should I water my garden vegetables?
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Shirley from Kansas City, Missouri
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| Deer Eating My Hosta Leaves
A deer has sheared of all my hosta leaves, leaving just the stalks. Will the leaves grow back this year?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thank you,
Jean from West Dundee, IL
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| A Good Tree for a Wedding Gift
My brother is getting married soon and him and his soon to be wife just bought there first house too and what I was wondering is for part of their gift we were thinking of buying them a tree to plant in there yard kind of symbolizing Love, Life and a new beginning do you think this is a good idea and if so what type of tree do you think would be good? I wanna do a poem with it too you know that kinda goes with the symbolizing and everything. Let me know what you think!
Thanks,
Mandi from Erie
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| Starting Clematis From Clippings
Hi Ellen,
I love Clematis and I have bought 3 plants this year. My garden is all around the perimeter of my yard with a fence. I would like to have them growing eventually all around but the expense is not within my budget. How can i start new plants from clippings of my already purchased plants?
Gratefully,
Karen from Leamington, Ontario Canada
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| Information About Seven Sisters Roses
On my parents property are some of my great grandmother's roses called 7 sisters. Does anyone have any information/advice on these.
Hardiness Zone: 7b
Sarah from Chattanooga, TN
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| Armadillo Repellents
We just discovered we have an armadillo in the back yard! It is digging up everything--the good thing is, our pup won't get blamed for digging up the watermelons, tomatoes, etc. Poor baby has been getting blamed for a lot of armadillo damage! Is there anything we can do to keep the armadillo out of the backyard, which is fenced in with a privacy fence?
Hardiness Zone: 8b
JLB from Austin, TX
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| Christmas Cactus with Red Leaves
I have 3 Christmas Cactus, one of them has ruby red leafs on the ends of it. What causes this?
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Thanks for reading,
Dee49 from PA
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| Rabbits Eating My Vegetables
Yesterday evening I discovered a young rabbit in my back yard. I figured it was responsible for the eaten plants in my gardens. I just discovered five or six tomatoes had been partially eaten, one almost completely finished and some had a single bite. I took photos and there are distinct teeth marks that look like the front teeth of a rabbit. I live in a subdivision that's two years old and this is the first time it's happened. What should I do? I don't want to lose my veggies to a bunny.
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Limner from Katy, TX
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| Pricked by a Bougainvillea
I was trimming bougainvillea and a thorn poked my finger through the gloves I was wearing. Three days later, my finger is stiff, red, and very sore. I cannot bend it at the joint where I was poked. Is this something that needs to be treated? I don't see a visible thorn. Can I get an infection?
Hardiness Zone: 10a
Michelle from San Diego
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| Starting a Cherry Tree from a Pit
How do I start a cherry tree from the pit?
Hardiness Zone: 7a
Edie White from Whitmore, CA
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Growing Guides
Growing: Blueberries
By Ellen Brown
| Care & Maintenance: | Blueberries will stay healthy and productive if pruned regularly. Young bushes up to 2 years old should be trimmed only to remove dead or diseased canes removed. Mature bushes (3 to 8 yrs.) require removal of prostrate canes and canes longer than 2 feet in length. Lowbush varieties can be pruned with a lawn mower. Because they will not produce berries the year following pruning, cut back half of the bushes each year and keep the other half of your plants in production. |
| Harvesting & Storage: | Blueberries should be taste-tested before harvesting. Berries that have just turned blue are not the best tasting. Gently shake a cluster of berries to determine ripeness. The ripe ones will fall easily off the bush. Store blueberries in the refrigerator immediately after harvesting. Cooler temperatures than the average refrigerator (31º to 32ºF) will keep them fresh for up to two weeks. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Citrus
By Ellen Brown
| Care & Maintenance: |
| Most citrus trees are self-shaping and need very little pruning. Root suckers or crossing branches can be removed as necessary on young trees and mature trees should be kept free of dead, broken or diseased branches. Apply an organic fertilizer to trees once each season-spring, summer, winter and fall. How much will depend on the size of your tree, so consult with the nursery who sold you the tree. Inspect trees once per week for pest problems and signs of disease. To prevent sunscald and pest damage in cooler zones, paint trunks with diluted white latex paint or wrap them with tree tape in preparation for winter. This should also be done to any branches suddenly exposed to full sun as a result of pruning. |
| Harvesting & Storage: |
| Citrus fruits should be harvested when the fruit shows mature color. Taste testing throughout the harvest season is the only sure way to determine fruit is ready. Remove only what you can consume at one time. Most ripened fruit will keep for weeks ( sometimes months) hanging on the tree. Large amounts of fruit can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for up to several months. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Apples
By Ellen Brown
| Care & Maintenance: | Young trees should receive between 1 to 2 inches of water per week throughout the growing season and into fall until the ground freezes to ensure they establish good roots. Start to train trees in a central leader (one main trunk with many side branches) in the first year. Prune them annually in the early spring while still dormant and check them in the spring and fall for fruit pests and disease. |
| Harvesting & Storage: | Apples can be harvested from mid-summer to late fall depending on the variety and growing zone. To harvest fruit, avoid removing the stem by cupping the apple in your hand and tilting it upward while twisting to separate the spur from the branch. Apples keep best long-term when stored at 80 to 90% humidity at temperatures of 32º to 40ºF (slightly colder than a refrigerator). Store them away from root vegetables-they release ethylene gas which makes root crops taste bitter and reduces their storage life. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Squill
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | There are several species of Squill, but Siberian Squill (Scilla siberica) is probably the most commonly grown. It blooms in the spring along with Snowdrops, Tulips, Hyacinth and Crocus and often produces more than one 8 inch stem per bulbs, each with up to 6 start-shaped flowers. Plants in this species are often planted close together for the greatest color effect. Small varieties should be planted 4 inches deep at 2 to 3 inch intervals. Larger species may be planted at the same depth but spaced up to 8 inches apart. Squill does not need to be divided unless you intend to propagate your stock. |
| Interesting Facts: | Like its namesake, Siberian Squill originates from the frozen tundra of Siberia. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Pears
By Ellen Brown
| Care & Maintenance: | Young pear trees should be trained (pruned ) to develop a structure that will best be able to support the weight of their fruit. Pear trees should be trained to have a central leading trunk and a shape similar to an apple tree. If fire blight is a major problem in your area, train your pear trees to have multiple trunks. This way, if your tree becomes infected, you can remove the infected wood and the tree will survive and bear fruit on its other trunks. Pears are uniquely susceptible to an insect called psylla-a tiny red or green insect that sucks juice from fruit. As psyllas eat they secrete a honey-like substance that attracts a particular type of black, sooty mold. This mold looks similar to fire blight, but washes off. Too much fertilizer and over pruning can encourage both problems. Branch spreaders increase air circulation and train branches while minimizing the need for pruning, and fertilizers should be applied only sparingly in the spring of each year. |
| Harvesting & Storage: | Pears should be harvested when they reach a mature size and still feel hard. They should be light green in color and separate easily from the fruit spur (point of attachment). Let them continue to ripen at room temperature for 5 to 7 days before eating them. Depending on the variety, pears will keep in the refrigerator for 2 weeks and even longer at slightly colder temperatures (31º to 32º F. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Grapes
By Ellen Brown
| Care & Maintenance: |
| Young grape vines need to be trained (pruned) to establish a physical structure that will eventually support the weight of their grapes. There are a number of ways to do this, and the best method for your cultivars depends on their particular growing habits. Consult with your supplier for specific details. Grapes need less nitrogen than other fruit trees and should not be fertilized unless your soil is poor and foliage is exhibiting nutrient deficiency. |
| Harvesting & Storage: |
| Harvest grapes when they are fully ripe-they will not continue to ripen on the vine. Grape's sugar content rises as much as 20% as they ripen, so a taste-test is the best way to tell if they are fully ripe. American and European grapes can be harvested by cutting the fruit off in whole bunches. Other varieties should be spot-picked every few days because they ripen unevenly. Grapes can be stored in you refrigerator for two months or more depending on the variety. |
More Growing Information: Click Here |
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