Dealing with calcium hardness (total hardness) in a vinyl pool? Well stop right now! Calcium hardness is one balance step you don't have to deal with in a vinyl pool. It is only needed to stop the water from leeching calcium directly from your gunite/concrete/tile and weakening it. If you don't have these products in contact with your pool water then you never need to deal with your calcium hardness. This makes keeping your pH and total alkalinity adjusted easier too.
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"Ignore Calcium Hardness In Vinyl Pools"
WRONG!!!!!!!!
I have been in the pool business most of my life... 40+ years... Part of balancing the water daily thru weekly includes Calcium Hardness... If the level is too low it will try sucking it out of the liner! I assume you have never seen a shribbled liner or decayed equipment from not caring about the Calcium Hardness...
True on the part with concrete, gunite, tile surfaces... Pool builders neglect to tell gunite pool owners to brush the walls a solid 14 days so it doesn't get prickly, etc...
Note: Always have the pool's water tested professionally for everything when 1st opened and adjust what's off... Then test it again professionally a week later to be sure it is balanced...
Note: The type of chlorination and added water will dictate if the Calcium Hardness is being effected, too...
Note: Pool equipment and pool surfaces are eaten away and break down from neglect and poor water balancing!
Plumbing water lines, which are most often PVC, appliances such as dishwashers and ice makers with a high degree of plastic components, and receptacles (plastic or fiberglass sinks or bath tubs, shower tiles, and ect.) in your home do very well at normal calcium hardness of 50 to 100 ppm for tap water. Calcium hardness in a vinyl pool need not be any higher than this.
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