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This week we have some great advice from Ellen as well as an article called Grocery Store Gardening that you should definitely check out.
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Today's Tips and Articles
Growing Catnip Indoors
Question:Would it be possible for me to grow catnip inside in the winter, so I could have a fresh supply for my cats all year round? And if so, what would be the proper procedure. Thank you so much for your advice.Hardiness Zone: 5a Linda from Sigourney, Iowa Answer:Linda,Catnip (catmint) is pretty easy to grow indoors as long as it gets enough light. When growing outdoors, catmint will tolerate a bit of shade. Indoor light is much less intense, so a southern-facing window will work best. To start seeds, mix two parts sterilized potting soil and one part coarse sand, perlite or vermiculite in a small pot. Sow seeds on top of moistened growing medium and press them into the soil just slightly. Cover the top of the pot with a plastic bag or the top half of a soda bottle (lid on). Place the pot in a warm, bright location out of direct sunlight. Catmint needs 60ºF to 70ºF temperatures to germinate. After about 7 to 10 days you should see some sprouts. As soon as the sprouts sport their first set of leaves you can remove the plastic cover and move the pot to a sunny window. Indoor air is usually dry, especially in the winter, so be sure check soil moisture levels daily and be sure to keep the seedlings moist (not wet). Catmint can be grown in pots year round, but they'll grow best if you set them outside for the summer. Plants can be pinched back as they grow to encourage a full shape. If you decide to transplant catnip into the garden for the summer, bury the entire pot in the ground. Mint spreads rapidly and it will take over if not kept in bounds. Bring herbs inside again before a hard frost. Catmint grown in pots can be maintained by periodic light feedings and occasional repotting. Harvest fresh leaves as needed for your kitties. Dry leaves by cutting off stems and hanging them upside down to dry. Store them in airtight containers. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
Information About Italian Parsley
Question:Is Italian parsley a perennial? What can I do to protect it during the winter?Hardiness Zone: 9a d.fostrer from Portland, Oregon Answer:D. Fostrer,Although many gardeners grow Italian parsley as an annual and some seed catalogs list it as an annual, it's actually a biennial (it flowers the second year). The best foliage appears during the first season of growth, as second season foliage tends to "bolt" and go to seed rather quickly as soon as summer heat arrives. Italian parsley is considered hardy to zone 5. If you want to try over-wintering it outdoors for a second season, just cover the plant with 3-4 inches of loose mulch after it dies back in the fall. You can also pot it up and bring it inside as temperatures start to cool and keep it in a garage or basement, but it's usually not necessary. Italian Parsley is easy to grow indoors and makes a nice herb for sunny kitchen windows. Just make sure to keep their soil consistently moist (not wet) and turn the pot often to encourage even growth. The seeds like moist, nutrient-rich soil, so covering the pot with plastic or the top of a cut off soda bottle works best to get them started. As the plants grow, pinch them back to prevent them from getting leggy. Freeze parsley in a plastic bag or harvest it and use it as needed. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
What is an Espalier? (Espaliers)
EspalierA plant, typically a tree or shrub, that has been trained to grow in a flattened pattern with the help or wires, trellis, or a fence.Espalier (From Wikipedia)Espalier is the horticultural technique of training trees through pruning and grafting in order to create formal "two-dimensional" or single plane patterns by the branches of the tree. The technique was popular in the Middle Ages in Europe to decorate solid walls by such trees planted near them, although evidence exists suggesting that the technique dates back much farther, perhaps even to ancient Egypt. The word espalier initially referred to the actual trellis on which the plant was trained to grow, but over time has come to be used to describe the technique.An espalier collects almost as much sunlight as a regular tree, yet has far less mass. This makes them ideal not only for decorative purposes, but also for gardens in which space is limited. They may also be planted next to a wall, which can reflect more sunlight and retain heat overnight, or be planted so that they are facing south and absorb maximum sunlight. These two facts allow an espalier to succeed in cooler climates, where a non-espaliered tree of the same variety would fail. They also mature fruit more quickly. Certain types of trees adapt better to this technique than others, although any fruit tree will theoretically work. The branches of the plant must be long and flexible. Examples of trees that take well to espalier are the Ficus carica, or fig tree, Malus (apples), and Pyrus (pears). There are several types of espalier, including horizontal (branches grow horizontally out of one central trunk), palmette (branches grow in a fan shaped pattern), and cordon (the tree resembles a menorah). A Belgian fence is a form of espaliering that weaves a string of espaliers into a fence. There is also the Baldassari Palmette, lepage espalier, verrier candelabra, U double, and drapeau marchand. Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Espalier Post Feedback: Click Here |
How do I make my own compost?
Question:How do I make my own compost? Alamuki from Tacoma, WAAnswer:Alamuki,Composting doesn't have to be complicated. There are really no hard and fast rules, but here are some tips for getting started. Find a convenient place near your garden to start a pile. Avoid low-lying areas. You don't want your pile to stand in water. A compost pile needs to be large enough to hold in heat and moisture, but small enough to allow air into the center. An ideal size is 3 ft. by 3 ft. by 3 ft. This will give you 1 cubic yard of composting space. Piles smaller than this will work, too, just keep in mind that they have a tendency to dry out faster, which slows down the process. You can enclose your compost heap using any number of available materials: straw bales, wire or wood fencing, blocks or cement bricks, stones, boards or scrap lumber. If you decide to go with wood, use the cheap stuff because rotting compost will eventually rot the wood and it will just have to be replaced. If you want something a little more fancy, there are a dizzying array of prefabricated bins and barrels available, too. You can also search for do-it-yourself plans online that you can customize to your own tastes. Now all you need to do is start adding the compost. Each time you add some compost it's a great idea to toss a small bit of dirt on top (this adds the bacteria and microbes that do all the work) and sprinkle the pile with a bit of water. You'll want to keep the pile slightly damp, but not overly wet. Every week or so, use a pitchfork or shovel to turn over the pile. This allows air to circulate throughout the pile and along with a bit of moisture, keeps the decomposing process in high gear. Everything will break down eventually, but some people find it more convenient to shred or chop items to reduce their size before adding them to the pile. This also makes the process move along more quickly. A good ratio organic matter for optimal composting:
It's best to avoid composting animal products (meat, fish, poultry, fat, bones, eggs, and dairy). They tend to smell. Avoid vegetable oils and do not compost plastics or synthetic fibers. For more information, visit http://vegweb.com/composting/how-to.shtml Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
| The All-American Selections for 2007
By Ellen Brown In 1932, a seed producer named W. Ray Hastings proposed the idea of All-American Selections as a way for home gardeners to learn which new varieties of vegetables and flowers are truly improved each year. Only the seed of new, previously unsold varieties of flowers and vegetables would be grown throughout North America, with the results then assessed by skilled, impartial judges. All-American Selections has conducted trials and selected winners every year since it was founded in 1932. Instead of advertising the winners, it relies on consumer magazines, newspapers, garden clubs and extension agents to introduce AAS Winners to the gardening public. Here are the winners for 2007. Post Feedback: Click Here |
Getting Rid of Sand Burrs
Question:Can I kill sand burrs with gardening lime? If so, how much do I use for what size area? I can't burn them because they grow in my yard next to my house. What is my best solution?Shanna from Bells, TX Answer:Shanna,Adding lime is an effective way to change your soil's pH (making it more alkaline) and it can also help with calcium and magnesium if these elements are lacking in your soil. However, it isn't a good solution for sand burrs. Used improperly, lime can have lasting negative effects on your lawn and garden so I wouldn't recommend using it for anything without first getting your soil tested. The key to keeping sand burrs at bay is to cultivate a healthy lawn. Sand burrs are what you would call a "pioneer plant." When soil is disturbed, these hardy plants are among the first to show up and take hold. When soil in established areas starts to lose its fertility and its ability to support other vegetation, sand burrs are only too happy to move in and take over. Because this plant is an annual weed that reproduces by seed, one of the best solutions to controlling it is to apply a pre-emergent product like corn meal gluten (dry molasses will work, too). Corn meal gluten (available at feed stores) contains humic acid, which will prevent the germination of annual weeds while it builds up organic nutrients in the soil. Apply this in the spring when the SOIL temperature reaches about 52ºF (late March/mid-April) and continue every 6 weeks through September. If you reseed your lawn in the spring, keep in mind that corn meal gluten will also prevent new grass seed from germinating. When used in combination with some old-fashioned elbow grease (pulling adult plants by hand), in 1 or 2 years you should see a noticeable difference in sand burr numbers. Spot spraying vinegar on young sandbur plants (at the 2-4 leaf stage) is also effective, but it isn't selective. Vinegar will damage anything it comes into contact with, including your healthy turf. Good luck! Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
Caring for Container Strawberries During the Winter
Question:I started strawberries in four layered pots. I don't know what to do with them for the winter? I'm thinking I will put them in my unheated garage, but the temperature will very a great deal; from 50 degrees F on a sunny afternoon to 32 degrees F at night? If I do put them in the garage should I cut the runners off?Hardiness Zone: 6a Dick from Newport, PA Answer:Dick,Your garage will probably be just fine. The main thing is to provide strawberries with an adequate cold period and to try to keep the pots from freezing and thawing, which can cause damage to the plant's roots. Ideally, temperatures should remain at or below 45 ºF, but a few afternoons at 50 ºF probably won't give the pots enough time to thaw out, especially if you keep them away from windows and direct sun. If you prefer (and you have the room to do so) you can also leave the pots outside over winter. Either sink them into the ground or move them to a protected area near the side of your house (stay clear of outdoor dryer vents). Mulch around the pots with leaves and straw (or sand, wood shavings, or compost) to prevent them from suffering from freeze/thaw damage. Go ahead and trim them back. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Grocery Store Gardening
By Ellen Brown I'm often asked if the fruits and vegetables purchased from a grocery store can be planted to produce more food. The answer is, yes! And not only can you plant fruits and vegetables, but nuts and spices, too. As with traditional gardening, the key to successful "grocery store gardening" is to keep an open mind and possess a willingness to experiment. And above all, have fun! Start With Organic ProduceCertain chemical residues on commercially produced fruits and vegetables can interfere with their ability to grow roots or sprout seeds. Potatoes, for example, are sometimes purposely treated after harvest to keep them from sprouting and to extend their shelf life. The same can be said for foods that have been irradiated. Avoid them. Start with organically grown produce. It does not guarantee that your food is 100% free of chemical residues, but at least it has been exposed to as few chemicals as possible.Be Aware of HybridsNo matter what type of produce you're trying to grow, unless it's labeled "heirloom" (sometimes found at farmer's markets), you have no way of knowing whether or not it has been cross pollinated. This means you may not get the results you expect, but try growing it anyway. You may be pleasantly surprised and you could wind up with something even better than you expected.Growing A Grocery Store GardenHere are simplified directions for growing various kinds of grocery store produce. In general, fruits and vegetables grow best in full sun. Use a soil-less mix or a high-quality potting soil mixed with vermiculite as your growing medium. Temperatures in the range of 70-80º F are usually ideal for germination. Try to keep soils evenly moist, without over-watering. Plants native to the tropics will appreciate an occasional misting. If you live in a cooler zone, move plants outdoors in the summer, but make sure to expose them to stronger light conditions gradually before leaving them out all day. Plants that remain in pots should be given a half-strength liquid fertilizer every few weeks once they reach a height of 8-12 inches tall.Apples (also Cherries, Pears & Peaches)Apple seeds need to be cold treated before they will sprout. Remove the seeds from the apple and allow them to cure for a few days. Place them in a plastic bag with damp sand or sphagnum moss and store them in the refrigerator for 3 months. After 3 months, plant the seeds 1/2 inch deep in a pot of moist, well-drained soil. Keep the pot in a sunny location. Seeds should sprout within 2-3 weeks. Apple trees cannot be grown indoors, so move seedlings outdoors in the early fall, giving them enough time to establish roots before winter.Avocado (also Sweet Potato)Carefully remove the flesh from the pit and clean it off. Push three or four toothpicks into the pit to suspend it (wide side down) over a glass filled with water. The pit should be submerged 1/2 inch into the water. Place the glass in a sunny window sill and roots should appear in a few weeks. Pits can also be started by planting them, wide side down, in a pot of moistened, well-drained potting soil. Once seedlings reach 6-8 inches tall, transplant them into a larger pot and pinch back the top one inch of the stem to encourage bushier growth. In the case of sweet potatoes, plant or suspend the pointed (narrow) end down.Beans, Peas & Non-Roasted PeanutsUse dried beans (like for soups) and raw, non-roasted peanuts. Pod beans and peas purchased in the produce department contain immature seeds that will not grow. Soak in water overnight. Plant seeds 1/2 inch deep in pots or sow directly outdoors after danger of the last frost has passed. Because legumes seldom produce when grown indoors, transplant container plants outdoors as soon as possible in early May or June.Carrots, Turnips & RutabagasThese root crops are biennials, which means they produce roots the first season and seeds the second season. If you want to harvest seeds from them, select healthy, fleshy root stock for planting and carry them over for a second season until they re-sprout. For most gardeners, it's far more economical just to purchase seeds for these crops. But if you have the desire (and the patience), it's possible to grow them for their seeds. .Citrus (Oranges, Tangerines, Lemons, Limes, Grapefruit, Kumquats, etc.)This group produces plants that have a wonderful fragrance when kept indoors. Plant fresh seeds 1/2 inch deep in a pot of moist, well-drained potting soil. Place the pot in a sunny location and cover it with plastic to keep the soil moist. Seeds should sprout within 4 to 6 weeks. Once plants are a few inches high, remove the plastic. Let the soil dry slightly between each watering (keep kumquat soil evenly moist). Repot plants annually until they are growing in 8 to 10 inch pots.Ginger & HorseradishSelect fleshy roots that are smooth and firm, not shriveled. Roots should have plenty of nodules on them. Cut the roots so that each slice contains a nodule. Lay it flat in a container and cover it with 1-2 inches of moist potting soil. Keep the pots moist and warm and watch for sprouts in a few weeks. Harvest rhizomes by digging them up when they reach the desired size.MangoClean fruit from seeds. Plant seeds in a pot, laying them down flat in 1 inch of moist potting soil. Cover the pot with plastic and place it in a warm, sunny location. Remove the plastic when seedlings reach 2 inches tall.PapayaClean coating off of seeds and plant 1/2 inch deep in a pot of moist potting soil. Cover the pot with plastic and place it in a warm, sunny location until the seeds sprout. Remove plastic when seedlings reach a few inches in height and continue to grow in a bright location.PomegranateLet seeds cure for a few days before planting them 1/2 inch deep in moist potting soil. Cover the pot with plastic and place the pot in a sunny window. Seeds will sprout in approximately 2 months. Keep the soil moist, but do not mist the plant.Other Plants To TryCoffee beans (non-roasted), tomatoes, wheat, rye, oats, lemon grass, taro, potatoes, green onions, garlic, pineapple, sunflowers, water chestnuts, popcorn, and raw spices (fennel, anise, sesame seed, celery seeds, etc.). In the case of peppers, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers and eggplants, the seeds need to mature along with the fruit, so look for ripe or even overripe produce to use as seed stock. Post Feedback: Click Here |
Growing Spanish Moss
Question:Can spanish moss be growen using the dry version that you can buy from hardware/craft stores? I was told at a green house that you can buy it dry and wet it and it will start growing. Is this true or am I going to have to order it?Hardiness Zone: 7a Samara from VA Answer:Samara,It's more likely that you're gong to have to order it. Spanish moss needs constant high humidity and generally prefers temperatures that don't regularly dip below 20ºF. Moss harvested for commercial use is almost always dried and cured before being packaged to sell commercially. Although I'm not familiar with the exact details of the curing process, I would guess that heat is used during some point in the process in order to kill any insects or bacteria present in the moss. That doesn't necessarily mean that growing it won't work, it just means that you're much less likely to be starting with viable moss spores. My understanding is that Spanish moss is really only hardy to zone 8, although micro-climates may make growing it in slightly cooler zones possible. There have also been a fair number of federal, state and municipal laws enacted to protect people from taking Spanish moss from the wild, which probably makes ordering nursery grown stock your safest bet. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
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My husband gave me a Red Lion Amaryllis as a pre-X-mas gift. It did bloom and 1 boom has died, at the lower end of that bloom there is a bulb thing. Are there seeds in it, are they fertle? There are 3 more blooms left. How can I get seeds from that Flower Bulb? Post Feedback: Click Here |
City Water Has Been Bad For My Plants
Question:I have a problem. We live in the city and use city water. Apparently the water is high in something, calcium maybe, because all of my plants get a white crust around them that they didn't have when I lived in the country and used well water. (I had to give up my aquarium because of this awful white build-up.) We don't get enough rain to be able to collect rain water as an alternative. Is there anything I can do or add to the water to stop this from happening? I had some beautiful plants when I moved here 3 years ago, and now almost every one of them is dead or dying. Help!Hardiness Zone: 8a Tripleb from Greenville, AL Answer:Tripleb,It sounds like you're getting salts and/or lime build up from calcium carbonate deposits in your water. The white ring is limescale, a white (calcium carbonate) residue left by hard water when it evaporates. This sometimes occurs naturally in areas where water is pumped from underground aquifers. Hard water isn't bad for human health, but it can definitely wreak plenty of havoc on the health of your plants, not to mention your aquarium, water heater, dish water, clothes washer, shower fixtures, coffee maker, etc. Watering plants with hard water can leave behind deposits in the soil that can actually prevent plant cells from taking up adequate amounts of water and nutrients. An easy solution is to invest in a filtering pitcher like those made by Brita or PUR for watering your plants. At $20-$50 (depending on size and features), you'll be seriously reducing your hard water problem and purifying your drinking water without filtering out the important minerals. If you want to spend a lot more money, there are also filters designed for the end of your faucet. I use a pitcher to filter all of my water for cooking, making coffee, drinking and watering my plants. Heck, my cats and dog even get filtered water. These pitchers make it handy for filling up water bottles, too. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here |
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