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Hello,
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Gardening Q and A
Q: I live in the Maryland area and my grass is full of weeds. Currently we have not receive a steady flow of rain for months. I would like to get rid of the weeds and put down more grass seeds. But because it has not rain much if I put down weed killer or grass seeds I will need to water them every day which will cause me to have a high water bill.
Do you have any suggestions.
Thank You,
Derrick from Washington
A: Derrick,
There are several things you can do to get rid of weeds and give your lawn a facelift. If your lawn contains less than 50% weeds, instead of looking for ways to combat the weeds, consider trying to create better conditions for grass to grow. This time of the year, lawns naturally go through a dormant period corresponding to the hot dry conditions of late summer. Improving your lawn in the fall and spring will work with the natural growth cycle of grass and take advantage of seasonal rains.
Prepare for fall by aerating your lawn now. This will help to reduce soil compaction and allow nutrients to get down to the roots of the grass. Ideally, you should try to do this a couple of times before the end of September.
In the fall, fertilize by adding a 1/2 inch of organic matter in the form of compost. Spread this evenly over the lawn and then water it thoroughly. Use a slow release fertilizer to increase the likelihood that the nutrients will be used for root growth. Root growth is the main activity of grass in the fall-strong roots being necessary for vigorous blade growth next spring.
Next spring, over seed with a grass variety appropriate to your growing area. Keep the seed moist by watering in between spring rains. You may need to over seed more than once before you see a significant change in composition.
During the summer months, maintain a grass height of at least 3 inches. This allows the roots to go deep (blade length is proportional to root length) and allows grass to become well established-eventually choking out most weeds. Leave the grass clippings on the lawn as fertilizer. They are a great source of nitrogen (the most important grass nutrient).
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Q: I live in North Texas and want to plant some flowers in some pots, but I have no idea what to plant or where to look for ideas. I want some flowers that will last through the winter and still be blooming in the spring. Is that even a possibility here?
Thanks,
Sandra
A: Sandra,
There are plenty of "winter" bloom options for you in North Texas. Chrysanthemums, marigolds, mums and pansies are a few that immediately to mind. You might also consider flowering houseplants. With these, often times you can take your choice of flowering seasons. Keep some that bloom in the fall (Aphelandra or Oleander) some in the winter (Kalanchoe or Pink Jasmine) some in the spring (Spathiphyllum or Anthurium) some in the summer (Hibiscus or Campanula) and have bright color all year long. To look for ideas on which flowers bloom over winter in north Texas, I would suggest starting by talking with you local nursery or garden center and exploring the Texas A&M horticulture web pages:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tamuhort.html
This is an excellent web resource for all types of gardening information specific to north Texas.
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Q:I saw some of your member's advice about killing weeds and grass. I had a question about using salt. I have an area that is 8' x 24' and filled with pea gravel. I have a problem with weeds and grass growing in the area. I was wondering if anyone knows if I use the salt to kill it, will the salt effect a cedar elm and a lady banks rose I have growing on each end of the area. The weeds and grass grow in the middle area. The area slopes and the cedar elm grows at the top of the slope and the lady banks grows at the bottom of the slope.
Please help,
Martha from Texas
A: Dear Martha,
I would advise against using salt to control weeds or grasses for two reasons. The first is due to the fact that over time, a build up of salt in the soil can harm your plants-actually stunt their growth. If your rose is down slope from the area you apply salt, you certainly risk eventual damage due to runoff. Secondly, salt is not effective in controlling many weeds anyway, especially grasses. I suggest you try boiling water or spot spraying with vinegar. These are both low-cost natural methods that have proven to be effective. Pouring boiling water over the grass and weeds will kill them, as well as any seeds near the surface. Because your area is 8' x 24', however, you might try spot spraying a 10% acidic vinegar solution for adult weeds or a 5% vinegar solution for young weeds. If you have trouble locating a source for 10% vinegar, you can increase the acidity of 5% vinegar (the kind found at grocery stores) by boiling it down to half its original volume.
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Q: I would like to know how to get rid of pesky vines that rap around all the flowers in my garden. Anyone out there have any ideas?
Laatsch
A: Laatsch,
Different vines have different reproductive cycles, so without knowing exactly the type of vines you're talking about, I can only offer you general advice as to how to get rid of them. Persistence is key when getting rid of any vines. For large vines, dig out the roots and pull up young shoots and leaves as they appear. Over time, the vines will be rendered incapable of producing any new growth. Some weeds also act like vines, wrapping themselves around flowers and plants in the garden as they "climb" - eventually choking out their hosts. Spraying the leaves with a 10% solution of vinegar should kill them. Make sure to exercise caution when using this mixture. It is non-selective and will kill or damage all plants it comes into contact with.
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Bring The New Look Back To Cypress Mulch
Q: Thrifty people unite! I have used more than a handful of thrifty tips and have never been disappointed. Does anybody have a tip on how to bring that 'new look' back to cypress mulch? After a couple of Florida summers it goes from orange-like to a grayish. YUCK! Please only send proven tips as the foliage would be too expensive to replace.
Thanks folks,
Jim in FL
A: Jim,
Without spraying potent plant-harmful chemicals (like stains or dyes) onto your mulch, I know of no ways to restore the color. Because all mulch made from natural materials breaks down over time and need replacing, you might want to consider replacing it with something that will hold its color longer.
I would recommend cocoa mulch. It comes in a beautiful rust brown color that turns darker brown with age and gives off the faint aroma of chocolate. After being watered, it forms a sort of mat that is wonderful for keeping in moisture, preventing weed growth and keeping pests like slugs and snails at bay. This type of mulch can be potentially harmful if ingested by dogs or cats, however (just as all "chocolate" products can be), so caution should be exercised if you have these pets.
Other good mulch choices are melaleuca, eucalyptus, pine bark or pine needles. Florida cypress trees are currently being harvested at a faster rate than they can be grown and are no longer being recommended by many nurseries as a choice for mulch.
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Q: I recently received hollyhock seeds and was wondering when I needed to plant them so they will come out next year?
Corrie
A: Corrie,
Fall or spring are both good times to plant hollyhock seeds. If you plant your seeds in the fall you can expect to see them pop up next spring, although the summer blooms may or may not be as vigorous as they could be. Hollyhocks are biennials and they do best when they are allowed a first season to establish good roots. Because of this, many people also plant them in the spring (some varieties may still bloom this first year, although again, not as vigorously). Spring sowing allows them to "dig in" the first season so they can really produce a show during the second season. I live in a cooler climate and sow a new batch of seeds each spring to ensure continuous blooms each season.
If in doubt, plant some of your seeds in the fall, and save others to plant in the spring to find out what works best for your growing area. If Mother Nature plants her hollyhock seeds in August or September in your area that is probably your best bet, too.
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Q: I have a question about hibiscus, I want to know how to care for it. I live in Delaware. it is beautiful, I want it to stay that way year after year. Any advice would be appreciated.
Alma from Delaware
A: Alma,
With proper care, you can see blooms from spring to fall for 20 years or more! Here are some general tips for caring for your hibiscus:
During the winter months, your hibiscus needs a rest period. Keep it indoors at a temperature of 55°F-65°F. Place it in a location where it has access to some direct sunlight, but don't fertilize again until spring and water only enough to keep it from drying out.
Prune the branches in the spring to within 6-7 inches of the base. Hibiscuses don't like to be root bound so repot yours if necessary. You can resume fertilizing it at this time (follow manufacturer's directions) and move it to a sunny location outside. You can either transplant it to a bed, or leave it right in the pot (more convenient). Try to keep the plant moist at all times during the active season and mist the leaves occasionally to create humidity.
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Tomato Plant Dying From the Top Down
Q: We planted 2 tomato plants in our garden and one is dying even though it has about 7 huge beefsteak green tomatoes on it. Can anyone tell me what would make it die from the top down and not from the ground up? The other plant is still lush and healthy.
Shirl of PA
A: Dear Shirl,
Several diseases can cause tomatoes to wilt from the top down. Your tomato plant could be suffering from a major bacterial disease such as Verticillium wilt or Fusarium wilt or it may be afflicted with Pith Necrosis.
Fungi that inhabit the soil and infect the plant through the roots cause both Verticillium wilt and Fusarium wilt. Damage results from the pathogen invading the water-conduction tissues (xylem) of the plant. Although symptoms of these two diseases are similar, Fusarium wilt tends to occur around midsummer when air and soil temperatures are highest. Often one side of the plant or branch will turn yellow and if sliced open, the xylem tissue in the stem will appear reddish brown. Symptoms of Verticillium wilt are similar, except the wilting is not restricted to one side of the plant of branch and this wilt tends to occur in late spring.
Pith Necrosis symptoms include thick stemmed plants with large canopies. The upper part of the plant may begin to wilt, and black streaks may be present along the length of the stem, which then becomes spongy and collapses.
In all three of these cases, affected plants should be immediately removed from the garden.
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Ellen Brown is our Green Living and Gardening Expert. Click here to ask Ellen a question! Ellen Brown is an environmental writer and photographer and the owner of Sustainable Media, an environmental media company that specializes in helping businesses and organizations promote eco-friendly products and services. Contact her on the web at http://www.sustainable-media.com
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