Vol. 4, Num. 34, August 20, 2009 (Read It Online)
We have some wonderful tips, articles and photos shared by
readers. Thank you to everyone that has taken time to share
photos of what you are growing. Keep them coming.
Do you have any tips for processing your summer harvest and
making sure nothing goes to waste or rots on the vine? Post your
ideas on one of the contest pages.
Be sure to give a "thumbs up" to tips and photos that you like.
Your ratings are used to pick contest winners.
Thanks for reading,
The ThriftyFun Team
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Planting Flowers in an Old Wheelbarrow
My wheelbarrow garden decor. Hope you like it!
By Sandy from Bluff City, TN

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Garden: Growing Corn In A Raised Bed
I planted corn seeds in this 8x8 foot raised bed. When they came up, I thinned to 64 plants. So there was about one plant per square foot. The soil used was a mix of potting soil and mulch that was about 6 feet deep.
I kept it watered and fertilized until it produced the corn. The variety of corn planted was Sugar Dots Hybrid, a sweet corn. The end result was 60 ears of very nice corn.
By Deanna from Spearsville, LA

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Growing Tomatoes in Containers
We needed a different place to grow our tomatoes where they would get more sun and be accessible to water. By cutting clean, plastic 55-gal drums from a local cheese factory in half, and drilling holes in the bottom for drainage, I made these tomato containers. One heirloom plant per bucket. A soaker hose runs on both sides of the plants, secured at the top of the buckets, so I can water them as needed.
By Steve from Weyauwega, WI

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Garden: Portugal Roses
This is a rose from my mother's garden!
By Orquidea from Porto, Portugal

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Wildlife: Pylated Woodie
This is our resident Pylated woodie who comes once a day to the feeder. A young one is also coming now.
By Spookyj from Ottawa canada

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Use Newspaper for Weed Control
Use newspaper as an inexpensive alternative to weed-blocker fabric. Place your plants in the growing location, then lay sheets of newspaper around them and cover with a thin layer of topsoil or mulch to hold the newspaper down and hide it from view. The photo shows how flowers explode when they don't have to compete with weeds!
Source: My own photo; tip from a gardening friend.
By Countessj from Anchorage, AK

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Garden: Ornamental Pepper Plant
I just love the color on this ornamental pepper plant. The contrast of red and green is stunning.
By DonnaPr from Florida

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Garden: Hibiscus
This Hibiscus is just breathtaking, with blooms almost 10 inches across. This is its first year as I planted it in the spring. Thought I'd share with everyone.
By kostalota from Kamloops, B.C.

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Use Soaker Hoses In Conjunction With PVC
I have an idea for watering gardens outdoors but with health problems haven't been able to actually do it yet. If anyone does it, I'd sure appreciate a feedback to let me know how it works!
I like to use soaker hoses and a timer to water my garden. However every time I have had one down for a while it seems to get clogged up with ants, weeds and mud. So here's my solution - PVC pipe!
I'd take a PVC pipe that is just big enough around to fit the soaker hose through (don't forget the end with a cap on it has to fit too). I'd drill tiny holes in it using the smallest bits I could find (if you clamp the pipe in place this would be a lot easier, not to mention a lot safer) about every 6 inches or so. I'd only put the holes in the top half of the pipe. The water would seep down on it's own.
You could either leave it on top of the ground and maybe cover it with mulch so it doesn't look bad, or you could bury it all along through your garden. The PVC would keep the soaker hose from becoming clogged and the holes in the pipe would allow the water to still get out to your plants. You could also put more holes where certain plants are and no holes where no plants are, which would also allow for no waste of water. And the timer would simply make it easier so you don't have to be going in and out everyday to turn it on and off.
I'd appreciate any feedback anyone has or suggestions.
By Cricketnc from Parkton, NC
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Place Houseplants Under Window A/C
An easy way to make sure your potted plants receive enough water in the summer is to place them under a window air conditioning unit for a few hours. The slow, continual dripping of the water from the A/C will give just enough moisture for them to absorb, a little at a time, so they get a good soaking. Tomorrow, put a new plant in its place,and continue to rotate.No more time and money wasted on water bills!
By Dollyslaffn from Darien, GA
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Training Vines To Climb Arbors And Pergolas
By Ellen Brown Vines are a great way to add color and interest to your garden. They're great for hiding unsightly views, providing shade, dividing garden spaces, or creating a sense of privacy. Here's how to train them over arbors and pergolas.
Three Types of Climbers
Many climbing vines have developed interesting adaptations to scale their way up and over supports. They can be divided into three basic categories--clinging types, grabbing types, and twining types. In general, twining and grabbing vines are the best choices. Clinging vines that use rootlets or adhesive disks can also be used, but they tend to prefer flat, solid surfaces like walls and fences.
- The Clingers: These vines creep along by attaching themselves to structures with an adhesive produced either by aerial roots or by disks attached to their stem tendrils. Once attached to a structure, they can be difficult to remove. They can also damage wood and the mortar between bricks, so locate arbors and pergolas well away from building walls. Examples of clinging vines include English Ivy, Boston Ivy, and Virginia Creeper.
- The Grabbers: These vines use delicate leaf or stem tendrils to reach out and wrap around structures they climb. Examples of grabbing vines include Sweet Pea, Clematis, and grape vines.
- The Twiners: These climbers twist and wind their way around objects using their strong stems. Examples of twining vines include Jasmine, Morning Glory, and Honeysuckle.
Selecting the Right Vine
Selecting a suitable vine depends on a number of factors including location, soil type, and intended use. To help decide if a certain vine is right for you, ask yourself the following questions:
- What does it offer in the way of foliage, flower, and/or fruit color?
- Does it provide food for human consumption or wildlife?
- Will the leaves provide fall color or the bark winter interest?
- If flowering, how much sun does it require?
- How much pruning and maintenance will it require?
- Is it potentially invasive in my zone?
- Is it slow to get started, or is it a fast grower?
- What kind of support does it need?
Providing the Right Support
So which comes first, choosing the vine or choosing the support? It doesn't really matter as long as the vine and support are suited for each other. If you have an existing arbor, pick a vine that can be trained to grow well on arbors. If there is a specific vine you want to grow, make sure you provide it with an adequate support. Some key points to remember:
Vines with coiling leaf and root tendrils need supports made from materials small enough in diameter (usually less than 1") to grab on to. Attaching lattice, netting, or wire coated mesh over arbors and pergolas will allow you to grow more types of vines.
Aggressive climbers and vines producing dense foliage can become heavy very quickly. Make sure you provide these vines with adequate supports for their size and weight.
Some vines grow much taller/longer than others. If you're growing multiple vines on the same support, make sure it's roomy enough and sturdy enough for more than one vine. Likewise, if you're trying to cover an arbor, make sure the vine you select is large enough to cover the structure, or consider using multiple vines.
Arbor and pergolas should be made from materials that are resistant to rot and can withstand the elements. Pressure treated woods like redwood and cedar, or painted metals will last the longest.
Training Your Vine To Climb
Training vines to climb is relatively easy. In the early stages of growth, use fabric ties to tie the main stems to your arbor or pergola. Nylon stockings work great for this because they have a lot of give and allow room for the stems to grow and expand. Before long, clinger-type vines will naturally grab onto the supports on their own, and twining and grabbing types will begin to reach out and wrap their stems and tendrils around supports as they climb. Once the vines catch on naturally, you can remove the fabric ties.
Some vines (e.g. the shrub-like climbing roses) are not natural-born climbers. You'll need to continue to tie the stems of these "vines" to supports as they grow in order to guide their growth in the desired direction.
Thinning and Pruning
During early growth, pinch back the terminal stems so the vines "fill out" with foliage before they start getting established vertically. This will help you avoid the common problems of producing sparse growth at the bottom of your structure and a massive growth of congestion on the top.
Once your vine fills out on the bottom, side shoots can be occasionally thinned and removed to encourage continued vertical growth. When the main stems reach the top, you may need to tie them down to the cross beams to guide the vines over the structure. Unless you're going for a naturalized look, expect occasional pruning and tying to control growth and keep your vines from getting "out of bounds." Some flowering vines are pruned immediately after they bloom, while others bloom on last year's growth. Be sure to check the requirements for the vine you select.
Popular Vine Choices for Arbors and Trellises
- American Bittersweet (Try the self-pollinating 'Autumn Revolution' by the U of MN.)
- Black-eyed Susan vine (Annual)
- Boston Ivy (Vigorous. Locate arbors/trellises away from solid surfaces like walls.)
- Bougainvillea (Not natural climbers. Will require more tying.)
- Cape Leadwort (Not natural climbers. Will require more tying.)
- Chocolate Vine (Potentially invasive. Smells like chocolate.)
- Cissus (Vigorous. Locate arbors/trellises away from solid surfaces like walls.)
- Clematis (Popular perennial.Try mixing several colors together.)
- Climbing Hydrangea (Heavy, with slow growth to start. Interesting winter bark.)
- Climbing Nasturtium (Edible flowers)
- Climbing Roses (Not natural climbers. Will require more tying.)
- English Ivy (Vigorous. Locate arbors/trellises away from solid surfaces like walls.)
- Grape Vines (Make your own wine!)
- Honeysuckle (Can be heavy. Provide sturdy support.)
- Hyacinth bean (Annual)
- Jasmine (Potentially invasive.)
- Lemon Lace vine (Fast growing)
- Maypop/Passion Flower vine
- Moonflower (Annual. Can be heavy so provide sturdy support.)
- Morning Glory (Annual. Hummingbirds love it. Can be heavy. Provide sturdy support.)
- Pink Madnevilla (Also interesting when used indoors.)
- Sweet Pea (Annual)
- Trumpet Creeper (Perennial. Hummingbirds love it. Potentially invasive.)
- Virginia Creeper (Potentially invasive.)
- Wintercreeper/Euonymus (Vigorous. Keep away from trees. Some offer great fall color.)
- Wisteria (Heavy. Provide sturdy support.)

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Economy Garden Border Stones From Concrete
We have had several neighbors that have demolished concrete patios and courts in their yards. I found if you ask them to jack-hammer the concrete chunks into manageable sizes, about the size of the border stones you pay dearly for to line your flower beds, they will happily accommodate your request as you are removing and/or reducing the 'trash' they will need to have hauled away.
I've hauled enough chunks of concrete (border stones) to line every flower bed in my yard (kind of like putting a jig-saw puzzle as you turn and fit the pieces along side one another) and have excess 'stones' stashed for future projects. It's hard work but the results are amazing and the savings is unbelievable over what you'd have to pay to buy each 'stone' for several dollars each. Neighbors thought I was nuts but the complements when the job was done proved them wrong!
By marycrane from Orange Park, FL
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Use Aquarium Water For Plants
My garden plants are all situated rather close to my home, as it has no outdoor spigot. I discovered a great way to water and feed my plants at the same time! I keep several sizes of aquariums, and use a Python siphon with a 50 ft. long 1/2" flexible plastic tube to do weekly water changes (big fish!).
In order to water the tomatoes, peppers, flowers, and whatever else I have growing each season, I place the "out" tube at desired areas from the door or even windows all around the house, start the siphon action with the Python, and out nutrient-rich water flows!
No waiting for buckets to fill, then slosh to the plants outside, and my lovely fish fertilize my plants! Organic and home-grown. Pythons are easy to find at most pet stores that carry fish; it wouldn't be practical for a small tank, but they do come in smaller sizes.
By Srenee from Liberty, NC
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Picking The Perfectly Ripe Melon
By Ellen Brown Harvesting a sweet juicy melon straight out of the garden is one of summer's purest delights. Figuring out when a melon is perfect for the picking, however, takes experience and a bit of luck. Here are some tips to help you harvest your melons at the peak of their flavor.
Leave 'Em On the Vine
A melon's flavor comes primarily from its sugar content, which is pumped into the fruit from the leaves as the fruit matures. Once harvested, the fruit receives no more sugar. Changes in flavor and texture will continue to occur, however, so it's always best to leave your melons on the vine as long as possible.
Water Them Wisely
According to reports from the Agricultural Research Service of the USDA, waterlogged soil dilutes melon flavor, so to preserve the flavor, commercial melon growers stop watering their melon crops 8-10 days prior to harvest. This period of "drying" allows the fruits to develop the sugars that give them their sweet flavor. In the backyard garden, heavy rains or watering them just before harvest can produce the same effect. Stop watering 8-10 days prior to harvesting.
Watch The Weather
As your melons approach maturity, start watching the forecast. Even without continued rain, a combination of cloudy weather and wet soil can be enough to halt sugar production and dilute some of the sugars already present. If the weatherman predicts cloudy, rainy weather just days before you expect to harvest, either pick them early or delay your harvest by 6-7 days to give your melons a chance to resume sweetening.
The timing of harvest will also affect the flavor of the fruit so a gardener should strive to pick them at their prime.
Harvesting By Melon Type
Watermelons
If you truly want to take the guesswork out of it, mark your calendar on the day the female flowers fully open, then count off 35 days. According to scientific "theory" your melon should be ready.
Cues To Ripening:
- When the little pigtail tendril where the melon joins the vine withers and dries, your watermelon should be ripe.
- The spot on the bottom of the watermelon turns from white to creamy yellow in color and doesn't dent easily.
- The top of the watermelon turns dull in color and (in striped cultivars) the contrast between the stripes diminishes.
- When you "thump" your watermelon you hear a deep, hollow sound.
Muskmelons
The terms muskmelon and cantelope are often use interchangably, but cantelopes are actually a cultivated variety of muskmelon, as are honeydew.
- The long stem with a small leaf on it where the vine joins the melon turns paler than the other leaves.
- The joint where the vine joins the melon is completely dry and does not resist breaking away from the vine (comes off without any tugging).
- In cantaloupes, the rind changes from a green to tan or yellow between the netting. (The netting is the series of raised lines that create a netlike pattern across the fruit).
- In honeydews the blossom ends will be slightly soft to pressure. The skin should be slightly slippery and smooth.
- All muskmelons tend to smell sweet and fruity when they are ripe.
- The fruit slips easily from the stem (without tugging) leaving the scar on the rind exposed.
- "Sugar cracks" and streaky yellow blotches sometimes appear on the surface of honeydews when they are ripe.

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Watering Houseplants On Vacation
Two ways to protect your potted plants when you are away on vacation. You can wick roughly with a strip of paper towel from a cup of water to the plant. Wet the paper towel before applying.
You can also tent the plants with clear plastic bags. That way the moisture will be kept in the plants so they won't dry out, and should work for a few weeks.
By pamphyila from LA, CA
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Gray Water System
Here in the desert southwest city of Tucson, Arizona our average rainfall is supposed to be about 12 inches with 7 of that falling in July, August, September, and October. But we have been in a drought, and so far we are way under in rain (less than 3 inches at my house since the beginning of the year). Tucson allows us to put in gray water systems, where the water from tub/shower, bathroom sink and washing machines can be run directly into the garden or into holding tanks. We have started running piping from one of the bathtub to some trees, as well as the washing machine water. We will be adding rainfall catch and the house gray water to holding tanks that we hope to put in soon. The water from rain is already directed to basins around trees and rain gardens. Once we are done, we can opt to have it inspected, and if it passes we can get a tax deduction.
By Chiismychi from Tucson, AZ
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The above contests are weekly. We pick 2 tip winners, 2 photo winners (1 photo and 1 pet photo) and 1 recipe winner at the end of each week. Each winner will win $25!
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Non Acid Loving Plants
Which plants do not like acidic soil? I add coffee grounds for my hydrangea, holly, and so forth. Are there plants that I need to avoid getting the extra acid near or on? Thanks.
Hardiness Zone: 5a
By Knickerbocker from Ann Arbor, MI
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Soil Seems to Be Falling Out of Potted Plant
Here is a mystery. I put a wire plant stand on my kitchen table and it reaches nearly to the ceiling. It is in front of a window and the plants are thriving.
Twice now I have found potting soil on the table and it seem to be coming from a Jasmine plant on the very top shelf that I am slowly coaxing back to life. With out dumping the thing does anybody have any clues? Plant is now outside.
By Cussinwolf from NC Mountains
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Late Summer Vegetables
What vegetables can I grow now?
Hardiness Zone: 7b
By jump54 from NC
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Small Wildlife Under a House
What's the best and most humane way to get rid of raccoons and possums under our mobile home?
By Tolagirl from Capitola, CA
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Attracting Chipmunks into Yard
OK, I know most people want to repel them, but I want to know how to attract chipmunks into my yard. I have a huge yard with woods on 3 sides and lots of trees in the yard. I have tons of squirrels, some deer, foxes, moles, and even the occasional bobcat. But I've never seen chipmunks even though I know they are native to this area. How can I attract them?
By Cricketnc from Parkton, NC
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Lizard Repellents
Do you know of a good lizard repellent?
By racine45 from Sanford, FL
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Plants That Can Survive Near a Black Walnut Tree
Will a hydrangea (white) grow under or near a black walnut tree?
Deborah G.
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Eating Tomatoes From Plant With Blight
My tomato plants have blight. If they live until harvest, are the tomatoes safe to eat?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
By Cathy P. from MI
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Tomato Blooms Die and Fall Off
I have some beautiful tomato plants growing, I have only 6 tomatoes on them. All of the other buds start to form, they turn the proper yellow color, then they turn brown and fall off. Hence I am not getting any tomatoes. Why?
Hardiness Zone: 9a
By titaniumhen from Northern CA
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Transplanting a Lilac Bush
Looking for information on how to relocate a lilac tree.
By mikehutch from Niagara Falls, NY
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Basil's Growth Habits
When growing basil, does it spread?
Hardiness Zone: 6a
By timfora from Traverse City, Mi
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Polecat (Calico Crowder) Peas
I would like to know where to buy the old time Polecat peas? They have a pink eye, we planted them when I was young, before I married. Maybe they changed the name of them. If you can help, please let me know. Thanks very much.
Hardiness Zone: 8a
By kffrmw88 from Dothan, AL
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Buying Inexpensive Terra Cotta Pots
I'm also frustrated by buying terra cotta pots in bulk. I've bought nearly all that I find and my business is growing and I need at least 100 of the 6 inch terra cotta pots with the saucers to match. They must be reasonably priced. Any suggestions on where I can find at least 100 or more? Thank you.
By AnitaM47 from Midland, TX
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Black Eyed Susans Are Wilting
I just planted some black eyed susans and they are wilting. I think they will soon die. I have them in rich soil, in the sun and have been watering them. What else can I do?
By Barbera from Excelsior, MN
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Soaking Hollyhock Seeds
Should I soak hollyhock seeds before planting? If so, how long must they soak?
Hardiness Zone: 9a
By roma2 from Sacramento, CA
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Tomato Hornworms
Thanks in advance to any advice. I have been growing tomatoes starting in March of 09, the problem I have is horn worms. Yesterday morning I was outside planting some heather on the side of the house. As always I stopped by the tomato plants to inspect, checking to see if they need water or dead leaves removed. Everything appeared normal.
Then in the afternoon I walked out to pet the kittens and noticed most of the tomatoes had been half eaten. Only this one particular container plant has been affected so far. I know that horn worms are products of moths which is what did the damage. I pulled 2 horn worms off the plant. My question is: How do I protect my plants from this cruel act of nature?
Angie
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Overwintering Geraniums
Does anyone have experience with keeping geraniums for replanting the next spring? I'm going to try for the first time.
Hardiness Zone: 5a
By kurtzfolk from Van Wert, OH
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