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Excerpt from "Basic Clothing Construction"... Thread type is chosen for its compatibility with the fabric's
structure and fiber content as well as the type of project being
worked on.
There are many types of threads - carpet thread, darning thread,
embroidery thread, crochet thread, basting thread, and buttonhole
twist as examples. This article will deal only with the threads
that are primarily used with most projects done on a sewing
machine.
The following chart shows various types of sewing thread and their
usage. Where size numbers apply, the higher the number, the
finer the thread - the median size is 50. Where letters indicate
the size, A is fine and D is heavy.
GENERAL PURPOSE THREADS
COTTON: A medium thickness (size 50) is available in a wide
range of colors, and is used for sewing on light and medium
weight cottons, rayons and linens. Cotton thread is usually
mercerized, a finishing process that makes it smooth and lustrous,
also helping it to take dye better. The lack of "give" in cotton
thread makes it an unwise choice for knits or other stretchy
fabrics, as the stitches will tend to pop.
SILK: A fine (size A) strong thread for sewing on silk and wool.
Its fineness makes it ideal for basting all fabric types, as it
does not leave holes from stitching or imprints after pressing.
Because of its elasticity, silk is also suitable for sewing
any type of knit. Silk thread is recommended for tailoring
because it can be molded along with the fabric in shaped areas.
NYLON: A fine (size A) strong thread for sewing light to
medium weight synthetics. This is especially suited to nylon
tricot.
POLYESTER: An all-purpose weight (approximately size 50) is
suitable for sewing on most fabrics, but particularly
recommended for woven synthetics; also for knits and other
stretch fabrics of any fiber. Most polyester threads have a
wax or silicone finish to help them slip through the fabric
with a minimum of friction.
COTTON-WRAPPED POLYESTER: An all-purpose weight (approximately
size 50) for sewing on knits or wovens of synthetic or natural
fibers or blends. The polyester core gives this type of thread
strength and elasticity, the cotton wrapping gives it a tough,
heat resistant surface.
HEAVY DUTY THREADS
COTTON; POLYESTER; COTTON-WRAPPED POLYESTER: These are coarse
threads (approximately size 40) used where extra strength is
required for sewing of heavy vinyl, coating or upholstery fabrics.
Regardless of the project you will be working on, it is very
important to purchase a good quality thread. The "5 spools of
thread for a buck" is not a bargain. The fibers of the "bargain"
thread splits easily while you're sewing and can cause knotting
of the thread, breakage of the thread and can also cause a
build-up of lint in the bobbin area and along the thread line
from the spool to the needle. If you hold a length of the
bargain thread up to a light you can readily see the frayed
edges and roughness of the thread.
When buying thread for your project it is recommended that you
select thread one shade darker than the fabric in order for it
to blend in harmoniously. If the fabric is a plaid or multi-
color print, select that color that is most dominant.
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