ThriftyFun News
Volume Seven, Number 30 August 19, 2005
http://www.ThriftyFun.com
Hello,
Do to time constraints we have been able to publish a TF News the last few weeks. In today's issue we have Gardening Q and A with Ellen Brown. Ellen Brown is our Gardening and Green Living expert. If you have any Gardening or Greening questions for Ellen, feel free to send them in. We plan on publishing Gardening Q and A in the TF News next week as well.
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Susan
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Gardening Q and A
Hummingbird Vine Pod
Hummingbird Vine Pod
Q: On some of the flowers on my hummingbird vine there is a long green pod. Is this a seedpod?
Annette
A: Annette,
Yes, the long green pods hanging from your Hummingbird Vine are seedpods. Each pod can contain many thin seeds, although the amount of seeds is directly related to how often hummingbirds feed from your vine. More visits equals more seeds. If you want to save your seeds, let the pods dry out and collect them in the fall. Store the container outdoors where the seeds will freeze or "winterize" them by placing the container in your freezer. After the seeds freeze, you should be able to germinate them successfully in almost any type of soil. Small vines can also be transplanted very easily.
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Curling Tomato Leaves
Q: This is my first year vegetable gardening in 12 years. My tomato plants (Big Girl) have just recently developed some branches whose leaves have started to curl. I cut back on watering recently because I've heard that daily watering produces lots of leaves but fewer fruits. Is this my problem?
Also, I just bought some seed packets for 10/$1.00. Will these be good next spring?
Jean from Connecticut
A: Jean,
Curling leaves can be the start of several different tomato diseases: Curly Top, Mosaic and Fusarium all start this way. However, if no additional symptoms appear, you simply have a case of Tomato Leaf Roll. This occurs more characteristically with certain varieties (Big Boy, for example) and although it is somewhat a mystery, it usually shows up after excessive rainfall or over watering. When the soil stays wet for too long, the older leaves on the lower half of the plant start to curl (roll) upward. In a few days, after the soil dries out, it may just go away. It's also thought that this condition can be caused by intense sunlight, which causes the accumulation of carbohydrates in the plant. It doesn't seem to have an adverse affect on yields, so unless other symptoms follow, it's nothing to worry about. Even feeding and watering-about 1 inch per week (more in hotter parts of the country) will produce the best yields. Water in the morning and from the bottom of the plant to keep leaves dry and help prevent disease.
As far as the seeds you purchased, most seeds packed this year (check the date on that package) will still be viable next year providing you store them in a cool, dry place over winter.
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Indoor Plants That Don't Require Too Much Sunshine
Q: I am looking for a rather tall indoor plant that requires very little sunshine. Also, what are small indoor plants that do not require too much special attention?
A: I would classify the following plant groups as easy to grow, tolerant of low-light conditions and able to withstand a fair amount of neglect. Within each group you can find shorter and taller varieties.
The Dracaena Group (False Palms): Three in this group will stand up well to low light conditions, a fair amount of neglect and fairly low winter temperatures: Dracaena marginata (Madagascar Dragon Tree), D. draco (Dragon Tree) and Cordyline australis (Cabbage Tree/Grass Palm). These three varieties can also grow quite tall. The Madagascar Dragon Tree can grow up to 10 ft, the Dragon Tree around 4 ft and the Grass Palm 1-2 ft.
Sansevieria- This plant is known to be nearly indestructible. Often called Mother-in-Law's Tongue in Britain (because of its sharp tongue-like leaves), it is commonly called Snake Skin or Snake Plant in America. The only sure way to kill it is with prolonged over watering or exposure to freezing temperatures. Taller varieties grow up to 3 ft tall, while the low growing pot group is perfect for windowsills.
Philodendrons- These plants have been around since Victorian times and are known to be great air purifiers. They come in two basic varieties: climbers and non-climbers. The climbers can be trained to climb as high as 7 ft (e.g. Philodendron imbe), while the non-climbers traditionally make great hanging baskets, but can be kept smaller by cutting back.
Scindapsus (Pothos)- The species of Pothos that is easiest to grow is the Scindapsus aureus. This is similar in look to the philodendron, but has more colorful leaves. This pothos can be easily trained to grow on a moss stick to a height of up to 6 ft.
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Everbearing Strawberries Only Blooming Once
Q: I have everbearing strawberries yet they only bloom once. I thought they are supposed to bloom twice a year. I really don't know what I'm doing wrong with them.
Any advice?
Joyce Wis
A: Joyce,
You should definitely see two crops per season with everbearing strawberries-one in the spring and a second, smaller crop in the fall. You should expect about 1 quart of berries per plant per year starting midsummer. You need to manage your strawberries to get maximum yields; otherwise they will simply grow thick and choke themselves out. This includes removing the flowers of new plantings once a week for the first three months to establish good root growth, removing runners every few days and making sure they have a consistent supply of water. Strawberries do best when planted in full sun in soil that is well drained and high in organic matter. They prefer a soil pH of 5.5-6.5. Because most of the plant's roots are located in the top three inches of the soil, care needs to be taken to properly prepare beds with the right nutrients before planting. High temperatures during the mid part of summer can also sometimes seriously reduce the yields of everbearing varieties. Generally, strawberry plants will reach their peak yields during the second season and may produce a successful crop the third year. After that, they tend to peter out.
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Grape Tomatoes Splitting Before They Are Ripe
Q: My grape tomatoes are splitting open before they are ripe. Does anyone have any advice?
Thanks,
Joyce Wis
A: Joyce,
There are two basic types of splitting: concentric and radial. The type you're describing (cracking before the fruit is ripe) is usually radial splitting. The cracks start at the stem scar and split out toward the blossom end of the fruit. Radial splitting is most often an indication of uneven irrigation-usually from over watering or excessive amounts of rain. Crops that receive large amounts of water infrequently are prone to cracking. Other causes include fluctuations in growth rates (sudden periods of rapid growth causes splitting), fruits being subjected to temperature fluctuations (usually caused by plants being de-leafed too early and the resulting sun-over exposure), or when plants become overly succulent due to excessive nitrogen in combination with a lack of potassium.
Controls include properly balancing soil nutrients to avoid over succulent fruits, proper pruning and leaf removal and proper water management.
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Growing Mixed Balloon Flowers
Q: I am growing mixed balloon flowers for the first time, I'm surprised at their height and the way some of them droop. Is it necessary to make supports for them, and at what time in their growth should I do that? What could I use to create the supports with items I have at home already? Would stakes and string be ok, or should each have it's own supports.
Thanks,
Joan in CT
A: Joan,
Some of the taller balloon flowers (as tall as 30") will definitely need staking unless you are okay with droopy flowers. Large blooms add a lot of extra weight to the stems and especially after it rains, you can expect them to fall over. Any type of knee-height supports will work fine. You can get away with sticks and string or you might want to consider using some left over tomato cages or a similar heavy-gauge support that the plants can grow through. You can try dowel rods, the turn wands from old window blinds or wooden paint stirrers (tape them together). There is no right time to stake balloon flowers, but if you're using tomato or other grow through cages, you'll find it easier to corral and train the plants while they are young rather than risk damaging adult plants while trying to fit them through the support rings.
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How Much Sunshine Should Container Tomato Plants Have
Q: How many hours of full sunshine should container tomato plants have? Mine have all day sun and they're producing but getting spindly. I can't fertilize in this heat if that is the problem?
Thanks,
Poopsey
A: Poopsey,
Tomatoes grown in containers need the same amount of sunshine as those cultivated in the ground-at least 6-8 hours per day. They also need even amounts of water, so make sure to check the container's moisture levels daily, especially in hot weather. As for your plant getting spindly, all tomato plants benefit from regular pruning. Snap off the suckers (shoots that appear between the main stem of the plant and the petioles (stems of the leaves). Proper pruning will help channel the plants energy into producing fruit rather than leaves and improve the air circulation around the fruits. Fertilizing with too much nitrogen can also result in spindly plants.
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Strawberry Plants Not Producing
Q: I purchased and planted a dozen strawberry plants for my 5-year-old son, thinking that he would have fun watching his favorite fruit grow. So far, none of them have produced any viable fruit. I've seen a few that started okay, but they always shrivel up and turn brown before they ripen. I keep them reasonably watered, and they're growing in raised beds. Can you help? Are strawberries temperature sensitive? Maybe the summer heat here in NM has prevented fruit production?
Thanks!
Lynne
A: Lynn,
Strawberries are temperature sensitive, especially the everbearing types. Hot temps can adversely affect their yields. In hot climates, it's especially important to keep strawberry plants moist (although not saturated) because their roots are close to the top of the soil. Your plants could also be diseased. It's difficult to say without more information, but there are several types of fruit rot and fungal diseases that can occur just as the berries are about to ripen. Gray Mold (also called Ash Mold) will turn the fruit brown and mushy; Leather Rot turns fruits brown and leathery; and Black Spot seems to almost mummify the fruits. Thinning plants can increase air circulation around the plant's crowns to help prevent fungal disease, but in most cases, it's best just to replant with disease resistant cultivars, making sure you provide a sunny site with good air circulation and proper drainage.
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Pruning a Hibiscus
Q: Can anyone tell me how far back I need to prune my hibiscus? It has been inside this summer. I have a few leggy limbs with new growth, so I would like to keep them. Its sister looks great. They are the twisted branch type.
A: Lynn,
A hibiscus can live for 20 years or more, and can be kept small by regular pruning. Pruning will invigorate the plant and also give it a better shape. Pruning is usually done in the late winter, but can actually be done anytime. To increase the bushiness of your plant, carefully assess how you want to shape it before selecting which branches to prune. Cut back the selected branches by about 1/3, keeping in mind that new growth will occur below each cut. Leave 2-3 leaf nodes (where leaves once grew) on each branch and leave about _ inch of wood between the eye of the node and the cut. Keep the direction of the nodes in mind before pruning. Leaf nodes pointing out, will produce new growth that points in an outward direction. Nodes facing in will produce new growth pointing back toward the center of the plant.
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Problems Growing Zucchini
Q: Am I the only gardener in the US who doesn't have enough zucchini squash? I planted four zucchini plants in my raised-bed garden, thinking that they would produce plenty for my small family. The plants have grown well and are quite large, but have so far only produced about 10 squashes this whole summer (this is a total count, not 10 from each plant).
Most of the flowers seem to fall off before they get pollinated. Any suggestions? I live in Albuquerque, NM, so plants get plenty of sun, and I water them regularly.
Lynn
A: Lynn,
If flowers appear but you don't get much fruit, it's probably due to a lack of pollination. This sometimes happens if bee activity is low in your area or you've had a stretch of cooler weather. My suggestion would be to consider pollinating them by hand. The first flowers to bloom are usually the males and they do not form any fruit. The female flowers are identifiable by a swelling at the base of the flower. To pollinate by hand, you can cut off the male flowers, remove the petals, and rub the stamen of the male flowers against the stigmas (the sticky part at the ends of each pistil) on the female flowers. If you prefer, simply transfer the pollen from male flower to female flower with a small artists paint brush or Q-Tip. Keep track of which stems you have pollinated by tying a twist tie of piece of string around the stem. Also, make sure to harvest the squash when they are small (about 3-4 inches across and 4-6 inches long) to increase the plant's productivity.
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Ellen Brown is our Green Living and Gardening Expert. Click here to ask Ellen a question! Ellen Brown is an environmental writer and photographer and the owner of Sustainable Media, an environmental media company that specializes in helping businesses and organizations promote eco-friendly products and services. Contact her on the web at http://www.sustainable-media.com
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