Volume 1, Number 10, March 30, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com
Hello,
We have lots of interesting advice from Ellen Brown today. We would LOVE to see pictures of your garden, so please send them in when you get a chance. If you have any gardening related questions, don't hesitate to send them.
I hope you guys are enjoying this newsletters. This is our 10th issue and I learn so much putting it together. We now have nearly 1,000 subscribers. We have always wanted to publish a Gardening newsletter at ThriftyFun and with the help of Ellen Brown, our Green Living and Gardening expert, we are very happy with the results so far.
Happy Gardening!
Susan
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Today's Tips and Articles
| Can I Grow Anemone Indoors?
Q: Can I grow anemone in containers as indoor plants?
Wider from England
A: Wider,
Anemone bulbs are a great choice for forcing indoors. Although I've never tried it, some gardeners have also had marginal success keeping them as houseplants. To grow them successfully as houseplants they will require the proper light, humidity and at least a brief period of rest.
To force Anemone bulbs indoors, soak them in water for a couple of hours before planting them to get them off to a faster start. Leave them in just long enough so that you can make a dent in the skin of the bulb with your fingernail. Plant the bulbs in a well-drained soil mixture, leaving their tips exposed. Anemone bulbs don't need pre-chilling to flower, but many people think they grow more vigorously if after you plant them, you cover them and chill them for 6 weeks (at around 41ºF). To flower best they need bright light, a cool location and consistently moist (not wet) soil.
By Ellen Brown
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| Getting Seeds From a Pine Cone
Q: I would like to know the best way to get seeds from a pine cone, and the best way to make the seeds grow into a beautiful pine tree? I would like to help these trees have a comeback in my town because years ago a lot of pine trees died. What and how can I grow these tree to live and grow well?
Thank You,
david19664
A: David,
This sounds like an ambitious and admirable project! I'm not sure what type of pines you want to reforest your town with or where you live, but here are some general tips for starting pine trees from seeds.
Pine tree seeds are found inside of the cones on the upper surface of each scale. Open pine cones have already dropped their seeds, so you'll want to look for and collect cones that are still closed. They are usually dark purplish or brown in color. When seeds inside the cones are ripe, they will be full and plump. The type of pine you're growing will determine the best time of the year to look for ripe cones, but the cones of most species are ready for collection sometime in the summer or early fall. Squirrels will often cut down ripe cones, so don't forget to look on the ground around trees.
After you collect the ripe cones, lay them out in the sun for drying. You can also dry them in the oven on very low heat (not above 120Fº). Once dry, the cones will open. Then lay them on a screen or place them in a paper bag and shake the cones to release the seeds.
You can plant your seeds in the fall (when nature does) or wait until spring. How you store the seeds will depend on the type of pines you're planting. Red, Jack and White Cedar seeds need to be kept dry in an airtight container and stored in a cool place. Balsam Fir, Spruce or White Pine seeds should be mixed with 3 parts moist sand to 1 part seed and stored at 36-38Fº.
Plant seeds in moist, loamy or sandy soil at a depth 4 times the size of the seed. Make sure the dirt underneath the seed has been turned to a depth of at least 12 inches to give the roots plenty of room grow. To plant hundreds of seeds at once, plant each about 6 inches apart in 4 foot wide rows.
Once the seedlings sprout, give them a little shade (just like they would get from the tree towering over them in nature) and some water. Watch them for damping off and be prepared to dust them with a fungicide. Once the seedlings reach 10-12 inches, transplant them into their permanent spot. Good luck!
By Ellen Brown
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Adding Character and Charm to Your Yard & Garden
By Ellen BrownGood gardens are simply beautiful, but great gardens are more than just beautiful, they have character and charm. They usually contain a number of "non-living" elements that are designed to add form and function to an already beautiful space. These elements add structure and visual interest without detracting from the living elements of the landscape. Here are a few classic ideas that will add instant character and charm to your yard and garden.
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| Transplanting a Surinam Cherry Tree
Q: I have just found out that I have a Surinam Cherry Tree. It was there when we moved in 7 years ago. I never knew what it was so I would chop it to the ground every year. It is planted very close to the
house on the north side with no sun. This year I let it grow and it
actually has blooms on it. My question is, I would like to move it
away from the house to a different location. We have 5 acres and most
of it is shade. Should I plant it in the shade? And will it live if I
transplant it? Also, how deep do the roots grow?
Hardiness Zone: 9b
Thanks for any help!
Sherry from Winter Haven, Florida
A: Surinam Cherry trees are often grown in Florida as hedges, so isn't surprising that even after severe "chopping" yours keeps coming back. The dwarf versions of this tree are also popularly used as an outdoor tropical bonsai trees. I'm not sure how deep the roots of a Surinam grow, but according to the University of Florida, they are usually not a problem if you decide to keep it where it is.
In regards to transplanting your Surinam, as a general rule, the younger the tree is the less likely it is to suffer from transplant shock. That said, if its size is something you can manage, you can probably transplant it successfully as long as you dig out enough of a root ball.
A rule I like to use is to measure the diameter of the tree's trunk and multiply that number by 18. That number will be the diameter of your root ball. Once you have the diameter marked off, dig down to a depth to 12-24 inches so that you get below all the major roots and remove the tree (dig down at a slant toward the trunk). Place you tree in a pre-dug hole at same depth it was growing and fill the hole back up using most of the same soil you removed from it. You can add a little bit of high-quality compost and garden topsoil(no more than 30%).
Make sure the soil around the edges of the soil is loose enough to allow the roots to spread out. Don't use too much compost or the roots will just end up developing around the enriched area and fail to spread out.
Surinam Cherry Trees will grow in sun to partial shade, and fairly poor soil, but make sure the site is well-drained.
By Ellen Brown
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| Ants on Plants and Trees
Q: We have "a lot" of little ants in the yard. Many of them are at the base of my trees, shrubs and plants. I am looking for something that will get rid of them and not harm my plants. We also don't want to use anything that will harm our dog or cat, deer or other little animals. Thank you for any help you send.
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Jodi From Gary Texas
A: Hi Jodi,
Texas is home to hundreds of species of ants. Some of them like to feast on sugar, while others prefer eating protein and fat. Most ants are harmless in the garden. Certain species will defoliate and damage plants, others have a stinging bite, and still others are beneficial and keep harmful insects like termites from taking up residence near your home.
There are several different ways to control ants in the yard, while still keeping pets and kids safe. Keep in mind that you may have to do a little experimenting to figure out what method works best for the kind living in your yard.
1. Certain ants are attracted to the sweet honeydew left behind by aphids on trees, shrubs and plants in the garden. These species will even go as far as "keeping" aphids, defending them from other insect predators, protecting their eggs over winter and actually transporting adult aphids from plant to plant in order to keep them fat and happy (and secreting honeydew). Check the plants in your yard and garden for infestations of aphids, scale and mealy bugs-these insects all secrete sugar that some ants feed on. A good spray with the hose is often enough to dislodge these insects. Getting rid of them will often get rid of your ants.
2. Frequently flooding ant hills with the garden hose (boiling water is not necessary) will encourage ants to relocate. This takes a little patience (and water), but is effective if you only have a few big ant hills in your yard.
3. Certain products sprinkled around trees and shrubs seem to keep ants at bay: scented baby powder, cinnamon and black pepper. Ants navigate by scent and these strong smelling deterrents are said to confuse them.
4. Applying Vaseline or another sticky substance around the base of the trees and plants they seem to be favoring will prevent them from climbing.
5. Boric acid is very effective at killing ants. Although considered a relatively safe chemical when used correctly (diluted boric acid is used in some ointments and salves and Boron occurs naturally in the environment), it is not safe for children, pets or the environment in higher concentrations or when used incorrectly. You can get around this by making a homemade trap. Wear gloves and mix 3 cups of water, one cup of sugar and 4 teaspoons of boric acid. Fill several glass jars with cotton batting soaked in this mixture. Cap the jars with lids that contain holes punched in the top to let the ants in. Mark the jars as containing poison (skull and cross bones) to be safe. Leave them in areas of your yard where ants are a problem. They will enter the jars, suck up the mixture and take the bait back to share it with the colony where others will eat it and die.
For protein-eating ants, substitute dog or cat food or peanut butter for the sugar. For carpenter ants, substitute wood soaked in a mixture of water and boric acid instead of cotton batting. Do not let pets or children near the jars.
By Ellen Brown
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| Aphids on a Grape Vine
Q: I just got a grape vine for my edible garden, even though it's a
small 8" vine, it has aphids. I know the homemade recipe for killing
them but will it harm the vine when it's this young?
Thanks!
Kuke from Baltimore, MD
A:
Kuke,
Since your grape vine is so young, I wouldn't risk damaging the plant tissues. Instead, I would recommend simply blasting them off with your garden hose. You'll still need to exercise some caution to avoid breaking the vine when you spray. Give it support by holding it in one hand while you spray the aphids off with the hose. Use short bursts of water with only enough pressure to wash them away. As an alternative, you could also try using a magnifying glass and painting your homemade remedy directly on the aphids with a cotton swab or small paint brush (really, I'm not kidding!)
By Ellen Brown
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| Growing Moss on Rocks
Q: How do I get moss to grow on rocks and garden planters.
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Rich Tekach from Poland, Ohio
A: Rich,
I've never actually tried this, but I've been meaning to. Here is a recipe I've been told works well to give planters and rocks that aged look. Put a handful of whatever type of moss you want to grow into a blender with 1/2 teaspoon of sugar and a can of cheap beer (or buttermilk) and mix it up just long enough for it to get thick and soupy. For the sake of your blender, try and remove as much dirt from the moss as you can. Use a paint brush to spread the mixture over items you want to grow moss on, including on the ground between stones in walkways and paths. Keep these items in the shade and mist them once in a while to keep then from drying out. In anywhere from a few months to a year you should start seeing some moss growth. I've also read you can paint plain yogurt directly onto planters and rocks and then rub those items with garden dirt containing moss spores. If you're not familiar with what moss spores look like, when they sprout up from the moss, they look like little bristles of hair with wheat seeds on the tips.
By Ellen Brown
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Beautifying Your Boulevard
By Ellen BrownOne of my favorite things to do in the summer is to bike or walk around my neigborhood and look at people's gardens. I especially admire the gardens that extend out onto the boulevards in front of people's houses. They seem to impart a sense of community pride and give a real welcoming feel to the neighborhood. If you've been considering the challenge of adding some "curb appeal" to your garden, here are some suggestions on how to get started.
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| Container Gardening in Texas
Q: I am an experienced gardener, however, I am a recent Texas transplant, and now have very limited space in which to grow things. I would like some recommendations as to things that would grow well in containers, and that would do well with limited eastern light.
I am currently growing lettuce and grew tomatoes last summer, but they didn't do as well as I would have liked. I have some ground space that I would like to use, but the location is such that the drainage is really poor, and thus far, any grass seed that has been planted there hasn't grown. I would like to plant something that would cover the bare ground. I am used to growing things in zone 5.
Hardiness Zone: 8b
SKbeal from Temple, TX
A: Skbeal,
Most vegetables prefer full sun, but a few will grow in lower light conditions. You didn't say how your lettuce was doing, but if it seems to do okay, you might also give cabbage, spinach, kale, mustard greens and Swiss chard a try. Some of these may not be as vigorous, but they will taste just as good. Beets, turnips, onions and radishes will also do pretty well with less than perfect light exposure. Have you considered herbs? Tarragon, basil, chives, coriander, sage and members of the mint family are also quite adaptable to your light conditions. You could also try placing reflective material like aluminum foil, white painted surfaces (even the sides of buildings)and small, light colored stones in and around your containers to amp up what light you have.
As for a ground cover, I would recommend going with something native to the area. Natives of Texas, a nursery in Kerrville, Texas, has a good website featuring photos and explanations of flowers, groundcovers, vines, trees and shrubs that are native to your area. www.nativesoftexas.com I believe they are about 200 miles away from you in Temple, but they may be a resource to answer some questions via email. Good luck!
By Ellen Brown
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| Grafting A Citrus Tree
Q: I would like to know how to graft onto a citrus tree. I have a satsuma tree that froze down to it's original root stock and ever since makes lovely blooms but the fruit is nasty. I just got a cutting from a naval orange tree. I am wondering if it would be possible to graft the cutting onto the Satsuma and hope for better fruit eventually. I am not cutting the Satsuma down and starting fresh. I love the blooms and shade.
Hardiness Zone: 8b
Linne from Marianna, FL
A: Linne,
Anything is possible and you have nothing to lose. Why not give it a try? To graft one variety onto another, choose a healthy 6-inch-long branch with leaf buds to graft onto a 1/4 to 1-inch branch from your Satsuma that is within easy reach. You'll ultimately be cutting a bud from the cutting branch and inserting it into a cut in your Satsuma tree. Avoid using branches with flower buds, which are usually larger and fatter than leaf buds.
To prepare the graft site on your Satsuma tree, choose an upright branch and strip the leaves from the current year's growth at the point where you want to make the graft. Make a T-shaped cut in the center of the branch (close to the point where new growth started in spring) using a very sharp knife. Cut through the bark and the cambium. Make a vertical cut first, then a horizontal cut. The vertical cut will be about 1 inch long and the horizontal cut about 1/2 inch long. Use your knife to pull back the bark flaps when you're ready to insert a bud cut from your cutting.
You're going to want the bud from your cutting to fit neatly inside the flaps of the T-cut. Cut the bud loose from the cutting by making a cut 1/4 inch above the bud and a cut 3/4 of an inch below it. Now slice the bud off, bark and all, starting from the lower cut and angling up until you reach the upper cut. You should end up with a bud surrounded by a shield-shaped piece of bark.
Peel back the flaps on the T-cut and insert the bud into the cut on your Satsuma tree. Once the bud is in place, wrap the area above and below the bud with rubber budding strips (available at garden centers) to hold the flaps together until the wound heals. Check the graft in three weeks to see if it still looks healthy. The leaf stem will have dropped off and the bark should be a normal color. If all looks good, congratulate yourself! If not, try again (you can graft more than one branch at a time to increase your odds). Just before the grafted bud starts growing in the spring, cut off the Satsuma branch above the new bud and make a slanted cut 1/2 to 1 inch away above the bud that slopes in a direction away from the bud. This will encourage growth of the new branch that will eventually contain your oranges. Good Luck!
By Ellen Brown
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New Requests
| Planting Aspargus in Raised Beds
Has anyone tried growing asparagus in a raised bed using landscaping timbers? If so, how high and what length and width would be best for the plants? Also, what amount of plants (roots) are needed for two people enjoying a harvest?
Thanks!
Hardiness Zone: 7b
KCC from Canton, NC
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| Forcing Hyacinth Bulbs
I'm forcing a couple of hyacinth bulbs indoors and I've dug them up from the flower bed, gently washed the bulbs and roots and put them in a pretty glass vase with water. Now, my question is, should I use some Miracle-Gro Quick Start in the water so they can have some nutrients or not? And, if so, how much Quick Start should I use? Thanks for any help you can give.
Linda from Ely, NV
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| Caring For and Planting Lobelia
I need advice on herb/plant called lobelia. It has small green and burgandy leaves and tiny, brilliant blue blossoms. Any advice on caring for and planting lobelia?
Hardiness Zone: 8b
jhirsh from Hutto, TX
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| Planting Ornamental Grasses
I think I'm zone 5/6. I would like to plant ornamental grasses near my deck. It's partial sun. Morning and then afternoon. I was told it needs full sun. Any help? Any ideas also where I can get it in smaller pots so it's not so costly?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Valery from NJ
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| Problems Growing Corn (and Zucchini)
Last year I planted the same garden as I have for the last 5 years: tomatoes, peppers, corn, zucchini, green beans, exc. The problem is that the zucchini and the corn did nothing. The plants were there but the corn (I planted 6 or 8 rows) came up with only 4 corn plants which the bugs took care of. One zucchini plant came up and it got a couple of leaves and that's it, it stayed the same size and grew no zucchinis at all. Is there some nutrient or something that I should be adding to the soil besides compost? I had plenty of tomatoes and peppers.
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Pakjc from kentland, Indiana
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| Re-Establishing a Lawn
I have had a lawn with extensive damage from grubs. There is a large area where the lawn is now totally dead and I raked out to bare dirt. What is the best way to re-establish my lawn?
Serp327 From Rockland County, NY
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| Attracting Eastern Bluebirds
Does anyone have any hints on attracting eastern bluebirds to the yard? They are the prettiest birds, but are seldom seen in the area where I live.
Thanks for all replies!
P.J. from Delaware
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| Looking for Prairie Spy Apple Trees
I'm searching for two (2) Prairie Spy Apple Trees to plant in my orchard. I'm having difficulty finding them and when I do, the nursery is out of stock for this year, or they won't ship. Any help would be appreciated.
Hardiness Zone: 4a
Elymunile from Ely, NV
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| Bulbs Won't Sprout
My garden is wet all the year round and it is clay, so all the bulbs i planted last year, none of them sprouted. Help?
Jon-UK
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| Transplanting African Violets
How to transplant African Violets?
Hardiness Zone: 10a
Acutegrandma from Simi Valley CA
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| Harvesting Lavender
I have a lavender plant. Could someone tell me how and when to harvest it. Should I cut it back for Spring? I want to make little bags to put in my dresser.
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Gen from Kansas
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| Herbs Spreading Like Weeds
We bought a house and had herb gardens that have started spreading. How can you kill these herbs without harming native plants and soil?
shopping_addiction_woman from Nashville, IN
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Growing Guides
Growing: Cinquefoil (Bush)
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Start from seeds by sowing in containers in a cold frame during the fall or spring. Starting in early summer and producing less toward fall, these low-growing plants flower longer over the course of a season than most other shrubs. They prefer lots of sunshine and will thrive in any soil as long as it drains well. |
| Interesting Facts: | The name "Cinquefoil" means "five leaves, " although the number of leaves on a stem actually varies from three to seven. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Chrysanthemum (Mums)
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | In cooler zones, mums can be grown as perennials if cold-hardy cultivars are chosen. Although often planted in late summer and treated as annuals, setting them out in the spring will ensure they have enough time to establish roots to survive harsh winters. Cuttings can be taken in early spring or after flowering and rooted over winter indoors or in a cold frame. Seeds should be sown directly into ground in the spring in the location you want the plants to grow. |
| Interesting Facts: | Mums are photo-sensitive and form flower buds when the length of daylight starts to shorten (usually late July). If you plant them under a streetlight or lamppost they may never set buds.
Mums received from a florist tend to be less hardy and take longer to bloom than most garden variety mums and should be planted earlier in the season to avoid killing frosts. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Columbine
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Sow seeds in pots or directly into the ground in early spring to early summer. Seeds need light to germinate so do not cover them with soil, but press them lightly into the surface of the soil. Plants tend to die out in 3 to 4 years. Avoid this by collecting seeds from mature plants for scattering or transplant self-sown seedlings. Full grown plants have deep tap roots and don't transplant well. |
| Interesting Facts: | Hummingbirds love columbine. Little white spaghetti-like tunnels on the leaves of your columbine indicate you have an infestation of leaf miners-a common columbine pest. Treat plants by picking off diseased leaves or cutting badly infested plants to the ground. Toss infected leaves and plants in the garbage-do not compost. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Celandine Poppy (Wood Poppy)
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Plants are usually purchased as transplants, but they can also be started from seed. Sow seeds directly into ground in fall or spring after last frost (colder zones). Plants should not be allowed to dry out between watering. They tend to be quite prolific if planted in good soil and grow best when planted in locations toward the sunnier side of the shade spectrum. |
| Interesting Facts: | The Celandine Poppy is a native wildflower to the Eastern regions of the United States and may be protected in some areas. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Dianthus
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Buy plants or sow seeds outdoors in mid-spring, barely covering them with soil (1/4"). Space plants about 6 inches apart when seedlings reach 1 to 2 inches in height. To encourage continuous blooming, deadhead spent flowers and cut back entire plants that have stopped flowering by 2/3 to re-invigorate. If you want to encourage self-sowing, let spent flowers and fading foliage remain in garden for several weeks. Dianthuses are drought tolerant and are easily "killed with kindness" by over-watering and over-mulching. |
| Interesting Facts: | Dianthuses are also known as "pinks" because the ragged appearance of their petals gives the impression they have been trimmed with pinking shears. Members of the carnation family, several varieties are quite fragrant, like the mat-forming cheddar pinks (D. gratianopolitanus). |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Clematis
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Prepare site in advance by digging a deep, wide hole (one foot deep by 18 inches across for most potted transplants) and add in some compost. Set the Clematis into the center of the hole and cover with soil so that the crown of the roots is 3 inches below the surface. Water thoroughly and cover with 2-3 inches of mulch to keep their roots cool and moist. Plant Clematis in a location where the soil around their roots can remain shaded by other plants while they climb toward the sun. They like to keep their "heads in the sun and their feet in the shade." |
| Interesting Facts: | Clematis do not wrap their stems around a support while they climb. Instead, their leaf stems reach out for objects to wrap around-preferably structures made from wood or metal pieces less than 1 inch across. |
More Growing Information: Click Here |
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