Volume 1, Number 20, June 8, 2006
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Hello,
If you want to see pictures of any of the plants in the Growing Guides section of this newsletter, just visit the link below the Growing Guide. On the website we have more information about each plants as well as a photo.
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Happy Gardening,
Susan
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Today's newsletter contains:
Today's Photos:
Today's Tips and Articles:
New Requests:
Growing Guides:
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Today's Photos
Shell Herb Garden
By Rebecca LanhamIf you'd like to grow some of your own herbs for cooking purposes, why not make the garden they are grown in decorative? Plant the herbs in various clam shells and conk shells for display!
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| Dr. Ruppel Clematis
Showing a Dr. Ruppel clematis which is in full bloom this year and very pretty.
By JM from St.Elmo Il
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Sand Dollar Plant Markers
By Rebecca LanhamUsing a dried sand dollar and a piece of debris from your yard, make a wonderful plant marker the color of your plants!
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Today's Tips and Articles
| Keep Roots From Damaging Your Pond's Lining
When trying to determine where to situate your pond, try not to situate the pond liner too near any young trees. People often forget that these trees will grow larger over time and the risk is that the roots will grow towards the water source and eventually puncture the pond's lining!
Tip By Hope Mason
http://www.lulu.com/spiritbooks
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Daylilies: Growing & Collecting the Perfect Perennial
 By Ellen BrownWhen I moved to my present home, I inherited a big, unruly bed of faded orange daylilies. For a while I contemplated getting rid of them, but the bed was large and well-established and it seemed like a lot of work. Then I become friends with an avid daylily collector, and before you know it, I was exploring the many (MANY) types of daylilies available. With the hundreds and hundreds of different lilies growing in his garden, I was certain he had one of the largest collections in the world. That is, until I found out there are more than 50,000 daylily cultivars!
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| When does a Muskogee Crape Myrtle flower?
Q: I just purchased and planted a Muskogee Crape Myrtle. It has no leaves on it yet. When should it start and when do the flowers start appearing?
Hardiness Zone: 8a
mg24510455 from Maryland
A: mg24510455,
You didn't mention how old your crape myrtle is. The Muskogee variety is a fast growing variety and one that tends to be one of the earliest bloomers. It starts flowering in early spring (May) with flowers lasting until late summer. Since it sounds like you just transplanted a seedling, depending on its age, you can expect it to take a few years to settle in and mature before it starts flowering. It should start to leaf out as the weather warms. Keep in mind that transplant shock will probably cause it to leaf out later than usual this year.
If you don't see buds swelling and leaves popping out after the weather gets warm, contact the nursery where you purchased it from about your concerns. If you're asking how old your tree has to be before flowering, things like climate, light, pruning and genetics all play a factor in making that determination.
Studies have suggested that soil conditions can play a role in determining how soon a young crape myrtle flowers. Although they will survive in highly acidic soils, crape myrtles thrive and produce more flowers at an earlier age in more alkaline conditions (adding calcium carbonate-lime-to soil will make it more alkaline). A lack of phosphorus can also inhibit flowering. Wait until your tree settles in over the next year (never fertilize a tree the year you plant it) and then start it on a slow release organic fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (P=second number).
Ellen
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| Growing Flowers for My Wedding
Q: I want to grow my own flowers for my wedding next summer, preferably perennials. which I would start growing right away. I was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions for what kind of flowers would look best if you grew them yourself.
Jennyttt from Belle Plaine, MN
A: Jennyttt,
Congratulations on your upcoming nuptials! Depending on the date of your wedding, growing flowers to bloom in time is going to be tricky. As you know, we Minnesota gardeners can be lying in the sun in mid-March only to find ourselves shoveling snow in mid-June. I would also recommend watching for what comes into bloom this summer about the same time you'll be tying the knot next summer. Maybe you'll see some annuals you can start indoors this winter or maybe even find some wildflowers you love. I would start at the University of Minnesota Extension Agency website. It's an excellent resource for growing flowers in Minnesota, including lots of color photos and a calendar featuring garden tours and events. The Minnesota State Horticultural Society also puts out a magazine called Northern Gardener. The Twin Cities has so many great gardens to tour-the U of M Landscape Arboretum, the Como Zoo Conservatory, and the Eloise Butler Flower Garden-just to name a few. It might be fun to plan an outing with your family or members of your wedding party to explore some of these gardens. They may even enjoy helping you grow your flowers.
Good Luck!
Ellen
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| Removing Weeds from Crowded Beds
Here's a tip to remove stray weeds, invasive vines or stalks of crabgrass from crowded beds or shrubs, such as junipers, where it's not feasible to spray. Put on rubber or latex gloves, slip cotton gardening gloves over the rubber or latex gloves. Put the herbicide (like round-up) on the cotton gloves and stroke the offending plant. The rubber or latex gloves protect your hands from the weed killer and the cotton applies it directly to your invasive plant. Works excellent for weedy vines.
By Charbie from St. Johns. MI
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| When should I plant my Easter Lily?
Q: I just got a white Easter Lily today and I was wondering when I should plant it. Do you have to wait until fall or can you plant them now? It's still got some flowers and green leaves. Do I have to plant it when the top turns brown? Also after I do plant it, will it come back year after year?
Hardiness Zone: 6a
luv2craft from Normalville, Pennsylvania
A: luv2craft,
As long as danger from frost has passed, as soon as the flowers die back on your Easter lily, cut the stem back to three inches and plant it in the ground. Select a sunny, protected location for transplanting your lily. Make sure the soil contains plenty of organic nutrients, has a neutral to slightly alkaline pH and above all, it has good drainage. If necessary, create a raised bed area by mounding up the soil to ensure proper drainage.
Plant the bulbs 6 inches deep in a hole wide enough to allow the roots to spread out. Work the soil around each bulb to eliminate air pockets, cover with soil and water thoroughly. Lilies like their heads in the sun and their feet in the shade, so after planting, cover the soil around the lily with 2 inches of mulch or compost.
New growth will start to emerge as the old stem dies back. You may get lucky and see a second bloom this season, otherwise be prepared to wait until next summer (or for the right conditions).
Ellen
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| Growing Water Lilies
If you are planning on growing water lilies in your back yard pond make sure the pond is situated in place where it receives at least five or six hours of sunlight a day. A pond that receives most of its light from a southern direction attracts lots of hummingbirds and butterflies.
Tip By Hope Mason
http://www.lulu.com/spiritbooks
If you have any more tips for growing Water Lilies, feel free to share them below.
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| Leaves in Our Vegetable Garden are Turning Yellow
Q: My container garden was doing just fine for about 3 weeks but now the leaves are turning yellow. What is the problem and how do I fix it? My garden has tomatoes, eggplants, bell peppers, squash, banana peppers, etc.
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Skipper from Pearl River, LA
A: Pearl,
Your vegetable container garden sounds great! Unless you're using a soil-less mix as a growing medium, it's easy to over water containers-especially in cooler weather. Although vegetables in containers need frequent watering, less soil means less watering (although they may need it more frequently) than if they were planted in the ground. Too much water starves the roots of oxygen and causes leaves to turn yellow. Different vegetables may absorb water at different rates, so it's best to check your pots everyday. If you stick your finger in the soil, it should feel damp, but not wet to the touch.
Container vegetables can be watered deeply once per week (to the point where you see water running out the bottom drainage holes) to leech out salts in the soil. If you want to eliminate any guess work, consider purchasing a moisture meter or using self watering containers. Once the summer heat really sets in, mulching your containers and creating windbreaks around them will help cut down on watering. You might also want to group your containers close together to create a canopy effect (peppers love the humidity this creates).
Good luck!
Ellen
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| Build Your Pond Close To Your Home
If possible it is a better idea to locate a garden pond closer to your home rather than far away. Ponds are like swimming pools - they attract wild critters, pets and also the neighborhood children. If it is where you can keep an eye on it, it is also easier for you to respond to emergencies or shut the power off on the fountain if necessary.
Tip By Hope Mason
http://www.lulu.com/spiritbooks
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| Fatsia Japonica with Burn Marks on the Leaves
Q: I've no idea what gardening zone I'm in but we have mild winters and mild summers - not much difference between the two it seems! My problem is a fatsia japonica which has developed what looks like cigarette burns on the leaves. Anyone have an idea what would cause this? No other plant is affected.
Scraig1 from Ireland
A: Scraigl,
This sounds an awful lot like leaf spot-a fungal disease caused by several different fungi. It spreads readily by means of spores from splashing water (rain), wind or insects-especially in humid conditions when the plant's leaves never have a chance to fully dry. The best way to keep it from spreading is to remove any infected leaves when the plant is dry. Also make sure to clean up any fallen leaf debris under the plant and avoid watering from overhead to keep leaves dry. Leaf spot can also be spread by dirty tools, so keep your garden tools clean to avoid spreading the spores. Treat existing leaf spot with a commercial fungicide containing fixed copper. Follow label directions carefully.
Ellen
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| Traveling With Plants
Q: I have a philodendron (heart-shaped leaves) and in about a month will be embarking on a three-week road trip, with my house plant in the car. I'm very nervous about him making it through the trip alive, and I have a few specific questions if you could please help me out:
1) Is it safe to clip my plant before I move? He is very long and viney and I think he would be easier to transport if he was smaller, is there any way to do this safely?
2) Any tips for car travel with plants, other than taking him out to give him air to breathe whenever we stop?
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Thanks so much!
Lindsey from Montreal, Quebec
A: Lindsey,
First of all, if you're coming into the U.S. from Canada, make sure you call ahead about transporting plants across the border. Some states in the U.S., like California and Florida, have strict rules about transporting plants across state lines.
If your Philodendron is in a ceramic or clay pot, you might consider temporarily transplanting it to something less easily broken. Ideally this should be done as far out from the date of your trip as possible. Pruning back some of the foliage will definitely be a space saver in the car and prevent your plant from damage. I've never seen a philodendron that didn't bounce back from an occasional pruning. Just use a sharp knife or shears and cut it back to the desired size. Before you leave, water your plant as normal and check to make sure you're not bringing any pests along for the ride.
You can place you plant in a sturdy cardboard box for during transport, just don't pack anything on top of it. Cut holes in the side of the box for air circulation and surround the plant with damp newspaper to help keep it cool. If the top of the box is closed, make sure you open it up for a few hours a day (lunch breaks and rest stops) so your plant has access to some light. Or, if you're stopping at hotels, leave the plant in the hotel bathroom overnight with the light on. While on the road, water it as necessary if it appears to be getting dry and try to keep the plant from getting over heated-above all, don't put your plant in the truck! When you arrive to your destination, put the plant in an area where you don't have to disturb it for a while and reintroduce it to direct sunlight gradually.
Drive Safely!
Ellen
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| Planting Spider Plant Babies
Q: Just wondering if anyone knows the best way to get a new plant from my spider plant that is making babies. I've heard (or read) that you can put them in water (to make roots) or plant them in a new pot full of dirt. I have also heard that the sprouts will just grow as a plant? I would like to know the best way as I have about 15 to do something with, and no green thumb.
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Thanks,
Tami from Charleston, SC
A: Tami,
You can root spider plant babies in water or soil. Putting them in water will cause them to root the fastest (2 to 3 weeks). Alternatively, rooting them in soil will produce hardy, more adaptable roots over the long haul. If you want to root them in water, use either a narrow necked bottle (so only the baby bottoms touch the water) or use Popsicle sticks, chop sticks or skewers to create a square support over a jar with a wide mouth. Spider plants also love getting outside in the summer, and since you have so many babies to root, this might be a good option for you. Simply move you plant outdoors and peg down the babies into the surrounding soil using bobby pins, baggy ties, etc. At the end of summer, bring the mother plant back indoors and you'll have 15 new spider plants to dig up and share with friends.
Ellen
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| Something is Eating the Leaves of My Plants
Q: Something is eating my tomato plants, leaves, stems, stalk and all right down to ground. What could it be and how can I prevent it? I do live 10 miles from town.
Hardiness Zone: 7a
br8769 from NM
A: br8769,
It sounds like either rabbits or deer are munching on your tomatoes. Since by now they have acquired a taste for tender young tomato plants, if you plan on replanting some tomatoes, you're going to need to offer the new plants some good protection or risk running into the same frustration.
I would recommend constructing small cages made out of chicken wire. Rolls of it are readily available at home stores or farm supply stores, it's inexpensive and you can always find plenty of uses for it around the garden. If you use regular tomato cages already, simply wrap the wire around the frame of the existing cages and fasten it together with baggy ties or florists wire. Make sure you cut a piece to cover the top, too.
If you don't want to spring for chicken wire, there are any number of inexpensive "motion" scare tactics to try (attaching streamers, pie tins, plastic bags, etc. to nearby objects), but bear in mind that animals tend to get desensitized to these fairly quickly and if they are really hungry when they wander into your garden, they might take a second look, but they aren't likely to be slowed down for long.
Rabbits and deer also respond negatively to strong scents, especially of predators. You can try sprinkling a little blood meal around your plants, or spraying them with a mixture containing 1 rotten egg, 6 to 8 drops of Tabasco sauce, 1 clove of crushed garlic and 1 quart of water. Smelly deterrents like this will need to be reapplied after rain.
A final idea, one that in my opinion is often under utilized, is row covers. Not only do they keep out deer, rabbits, squirrels and birds, but they also keep out insects. They are a minimal investment and can be used year after year. Scour garage sales for old hulas hoops to use as stabilizers.
Good luck!
Ellen
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| Keep Racoons Out of Your Pond
If you have a lot of raccoons or other small furry tailed predators in your neighborhood avoid planting hedges or bushes around the perimeter of your pond. These bushes provide an ideal hiding place for critters that may want to feast on your fish for supper.
Tip By Hope Mason
http://www.lulu.com/spiritbooks
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Dragonflies: Dinosaurs of the Garden
By Ellen BrownDragonflies arrived in the garden more than 300 million years ago-a mere 70 million years before the earliest known dinosaur. With expert hunting skills (they are insect eating machines) and the ability to fly at speeds over 30 mph, it's not surprising that their species have been able to achieve such longevity. Dragonflies live, breed and eat around water. In recent years, human development and the resulting loss of wetlands have put 15-20% of the world's dragonfly species in danger of becoming extinct. By inviting dragonflies into your garden you can help preserve this important insect predator. They'll show you their appreciation by happily reducing your mosquito population.
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New Requests
| What Can I Plant on Top of a Septic Tank?
I am wondering what can be planted on top of a septic tank besides grass? I know trees are out!
Hardiness Zone: 9a
SusannL from Florida
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| Ornamental Pepper Plant Seeds
I am looking for seeds for ornamental pepper plants. I can't find anywhere.
Hardiness Zone: 8a
agc1953 from Prattville, AL
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| My Lilac Bush is Half Dead
I have a mini Lilac bush that is half dead. There are parts of the bush that have leaves and small flowers. Is it safe to cut the dead part off? And any ideas what caused this?
Thanks Shawn
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Shawn from DePere WI
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| Rooting a Rosebush
I would like information on how to multiply my great smelling rosebush. I have heard about rooting hormones, but does it really work, and how do you do it?
Hardiness Zone: 6b
Marion from Fort Meade, MD
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| Deer Resistant Plants
I need some hints for colorful deer resistant plants for shade (perennial preferred). We have deer in our city neighborhood that love to sample every shade loving plant I've tried. At this point, I'll take anything!
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Charlene S. from San Antonio TX
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Growing Guides
Growing: Hyacinth
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Bulbs are available in the fall with other spring bulbs. In most zones, bulbs can be planted to a depth of 4 to 5 inches. Colder zones may need to plant as deep as 8 inches and add mulch to protect the bulbs over winter. Remove the mulch in spring after frost danger has passed. Bulbs have a tendency to split into smaller bulbs (producing smaller flowers) the second year. Applying a balanced fertilizer in the spring as leaves emerge will help to keep plants more robust the following season. Cut back the stalks after flowers fade. Don't cut back the leaves until they die back naturally-give them time to provide the bulbs with nutrients for next year's growing season. |
| Interesting Facts: | To force hyacinth bulbs in water, weigh bulbs down in a vase or glass bowl with pebbles and fill it with water until it covers the lower half of the bulbs. Keep the vase cool (under 50ºF) and dark for approximately 4 to 8 weeks until roots begin to form and the shoots begin to elongate. Then bring the bulbs into a warm sunny area and watch them flower. Add water as necessary. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Guernsey Lily
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Plant bulbs in mid summer or early fall. The bulbs should be planted about 8 inches deep and spaced about 8 inches apart. Guernsey lilies will flower in mid summer and follow with leaf growth, which will remain green and actively growing until flower stalks appear the next season. These lilies also grow well in crowded containers and can be taken indoors over winter in cooler zones and set in a sunny room. Plant bulbs so tips are even with the soil's surface. Water when the tips of the flower stalks first appear and continue to water until the leaves start to grow. Apply a light fertilizer for the benefit of the leaves every 4 weeks during the growing season and keep soil moist. Cease watering when leaves start to naturally die back. Plan on repotting them every 4 to 5 years. |
| Interesting Facts: | Guernsey lilies are resistant to deer and rodents. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Madonna Lily
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Madonna lilies are different from other lilies in that they grow their foliage in the fall, bloom in the spring and go dormant in the summer. For this reason, bulbs should be planted around mid-September to see new growth in the fall. Bulbs should be planted with the tips only an inch or two below the surface of the soil. Feed an occasional bulb fertilizer to maintain robust growth. |
| Interesting Facts: | A symbol of purity for literally thousands of years, the Madonna lily is one of the oldest cultivated lilies in existence, possibly dating back to as far as 1500 years B.C. Originating in the Middle East, possible Israel or the Balkans, it was thought to have been brought to Europe by Phoenician traders and as Christianity spread, quickly became associated with the Virgin Mary. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Gladiolus
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Start with purchased corms in the spring. As a guide, plant larger corms (greater than 1 inch) about 6 inches deep and smaller corms (less than _ inch) about 3 inches deep. Plant in two week intervals throughout mid spring to early summer for the best show of flowers. In the fall before the first hard frost, lift corms and cut off the tops. Leave them to dry in the shade for a few days before cleaning them off and storing them for winter. Keep them in wood shavings, newspaper or peat moss at temperatures of around 40º to 50ºF. Check bulbs throughout the winter for signs of drying or rotting. Where winter temperatures stay above 0ºF, the common, large-flowered gladiolus can survive in the ground with 3 to 6 inches of mulch. |
| Interesting Facts: | To keep cut gladiolus bulbs vigorous, cut the stems off well below the flower but leave the leaves intact in the ground to nature naturally to make sure the bulb has enough nutrients for the next season. Cut the flower stalks just before the flower opens for a longer lasting arrangement. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Lily
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Bulbs generally available during the spring or fall. If you're buying bulbs in the fall, make sure you get them in the ground before it freezes so they have time to establish some roots. Plant bulbs from 6 to 9 inches deep (smaller bulbs slightly closer to the surface). They tend to be voracious eaters and will appreciate a little 5-10-5 fertilizer or wood ash worked into the soil around their clumps. The scaly structure of lily bulbs puts them at a great risk for root rot so sites having heavy clay soils need to be amended or avoided. New plants will produce flowers in 2 to 4 years. In the fall, mulch bulbs well in zones with harsh winters. The easiest way to propagate lilies is to dig them up and remove the offsets that form around the base of the main clumps. These can be cleaned up and replanted in the garden or in pots. Plant them at a depth of twice their height. |
| Interesting Facts: | Lily bulbs never really go dormant. If you purchase them or order them through the mail, plan on planting them quickly. If you can't keep them in the refrigerator (or at 40ºF) until you can get them in the ground. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Freesia
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Freesia is tender and delicate and really only grows well outdoors in the warmer zones although they can be grown indoors in cooler zones. Because they are easily damaged, it is best to grow them in containers. Plant corms close together (6 corms per 5 inch pot) I" deep in rich, well-drained potting soil. For winter flowers, plant corms in the summer or early fall and keep them cool until winter. Bring them in after the first frost and place them in an area with bright light and cool nighttime temperatures of between 40º and 45ºF. Give them regular water throughout the growing period. After flowering, back off on watering and allow plants to die back naturally. Corms can then be removed and cleaned and stored for the next season. |
| Interesting Facts: | Freesia originated in South Africa. Many parts of this plant are poisonous and should be handled with care. |
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