Happy Garden Newsletter - September 28, 2006

Crafting for Fun and Money!

If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish.

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Being a gardener, I just loved this tomato! Another one of God's gifts to us. This was sent to me in an email. I know there are many readers who would just love this! So I decided to submit the "Angel Tomato"

It also goes to show that you can't always tell from the outside who is truly an angel inside.

Jennifer, CA

This was at the stand of Brenneman's Produce, Vicky Brenneman had sliced open a Tomato and this is what she found ... She put it on display for all to see ... I thought this was awesome, to see something simple to uplift our lives and make us smile. Photo by Dennis Ober

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A Monarch with it's wings open on the white flowers of the butterfly bush in the backyard. They visit from early July to as late as October on their way to Mexico. They cover a distance of 2,000 miles.

By Evelyn from McHenry, IL

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Sweet potato plant, beautiful and easy to grow!

By Christine from Sanremo, Italy

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I saw the picture of a humingbird from Pat from Sweetwater Tx. I, too, had the good fortune to capture a hummingbird, one cool morning while he was sitting on top of the feeder.

By Jan from Springfield, Mn

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 9b

Gayle from Queen Creek, AZ

Answer:

The stress of late summer heat can certainly take a toll on roses, especially in your part of the country. You didn't mention exactly what was happening with your roses before adding coffee grounds and Epsom salt. What often happens when the summer heat sets in is that some of the lower leaves on the bush turn yellow and drop off. This is actually normal, providing the discoloration is uniform and the affected leaves are confined to the lower part of the canes that are closest to the ground. These leaves are older and their loss shouldn't be cause for concern. If the yellowing of the lower leaves becomes more widespread and the yellowing discoloration extends to canes beyond ground level, then you may be looking at a magnesium deficiency (often corrected by adding Epsom salt). I'm not certain if your roses are suffering from Black Spot or not. Because the leaves started to turn brown AFTER you added the Epsom salt and coffee grounds, you may have temporarily tipped the pH balance too far in the other direction. Most soils in Arizona tend toward the alkaline side of the pH scale. I would have yours tested before you add any more soil amendments. For now, carefully flush the soil with water to dilute possible salts (water from the ground). If you think your bush has Black Spot, remove any affected leaves (dispose of in the garbage) and spray the remaining leaves with baking soda or a fungicidal soap every 7 to 10 days.

Browning leaves can also be caused by salt burn, sun and windburn. Constant drip irrigation may be causing a build up of the salts left behind as the water evaporates. Try giving your roses a long deep drink at least once per month to help flush away salts from the root zone. Applications of gypsum will also help to remove the salt from the root zone.

Would it be possible to offer your roses some afternoon shade during peak summer heat? (e.g. a potted tree, a sun umbrella or a temporary shade screen?) Avoid applying too much fertilizer during the hottest weather (1/2 strength is best in your summer climate) and apply 3 to 4 inches of mulch around the base to help keep moisture in and keep plants cool. Be sure to rake up all dropped leaves in the fall to prevent the possibility of Black Spot spores overwintering in the soil.

Ellen

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The roots of some plants prefer the wide open spaces of living in a large-sized pot. For other plant's roots, a tight, cozy pot where they can reach out and touch the walls feels more like home. No matter what their preference is, sooner or later just about every plant outgrows its pot. And even if it never does, it will probably need repotting anyway. So how do you know when it's time to repot your plant? Here's what to watch out for:

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By the time the summer growing season ends, your garden soil has been depleted of many of the essential nutrients needed to sustain plant growth. Amending your soil with compost and manure is a great way to add those important nutrients back into your soil. Planting cover crops will not only add to your soil's fertility, but it will lock those nutrients into your soil and prevent them from washing away with spring rains.

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Question:

Thanks so much for all the great Tree ideas (A Good Tree to Give as a Gift.) I actually found out a tree story about my brother and his new wife. I guess her grandparents got a tree for one of their wedding gifts and it was a Japanese Maple so wherever they moved to they would dig up the tree and take it with them. So, I thought that might be a good idea. Do you know the meaning of a Japanese Maple?

Thanks again,
Mandi from Erie

Answer:

I'm glad you liked some of my ideas. Trees are a wonderful way to remember a person or mark a special occasion. I was able to find a fair amount of information regarding the spiritual and/or folklore meanings of Maple trees. It was less easy to find information regarding the history or meaning of Japanese Maple trees.

Maple Tree meanings:

Celtic (Independence of Mind) - no ordinary person, full of imagination and originality, shy and reserved; ambitious, proud, self-confident, hungers for new experiences, sometimes nervous, has many complexities, good memory, learns easily, complicated love life, wants to impress. Corresponds to birthdays from April 11-20th.

Traditional Passing a young child through the branches of a maple tree is thought to encourage good health and longevity of life for the child. Success and abundance.

Japanese Maple Tree meanings:

History/Lore/Use:

Hope this helps!
Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 6b

Thanks
Tom from Long Island, NY

Answer:

It sounds like you're experiencing blossom end rot. I do agree this can be caused by a calcium deficiency in your plants, but probably not in the way you think. The calcium deficiency doesn't usually occur in the soil; rather it's usually caused by the plant's inability to take up calcium from the soil. This is most often the result of sudden fluctuations in water (sudden water uptake following a drought), but it can also be due to high nitrogen or magnesium levels in the soil or happen after a period of rapid growth. Here's why.

Calcium in the soil is dissolved by water and taken up by the plant's roots. In conditions of high moisture stress (like lots of rain or overwatering), water and the dissolved calcium is taken up rapidly by the plant's vascular tissue and moves more quickly than usual from the plant's roots to its leaves. Because a plant loses most of its water through the leaves due to transpiration, after a sudden uptake of water, the majority of calcium taken up with it gets left behind (deposited) in the leaves, before it can be evenly distributed throughout the plant. Because most of the calcium remains deposited in the leaves, it causes a localized deficiency of calcium in the fruit. Eventually the cells in the fruit start to collapse, producing the symptoms of blossom-end rot. Blossom-end rot can also occur in plants experiencing rapid leaf growth due to over-fertilization (especially with nitrogen). This is because the growth of larger leaves increases the amount of surface area available for transpiration to occur, throwing the plant's calcium distribution system off balance.

To prevent blossom-end rot, try to keep the proper soil pH. This will enable your plant's vascular system to take up nutrients properly. (Most vegetables need a pH ranging from 6.0 to 6.8) You should also avoid excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizer. This can lead to vigorous growth in the short term, but lead to blossom-end rot later.

Try to keep plants on a consistent watering schedule. Apply mulch to help prevent your soil from drying out and keep your plants from experiencing the stress brought on by sudden changes in moisture.

Calcium deficiencies are rarely a soil problem, so before adding any calcium to your soil, you'll want to perform a soil test. If you find out that your soil is deficient in calcium, you can increase its calcium content by adding dolomitic lime or manure.

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Tooti from Plainville, CT

Answer:

I'm sorry to hear the weather hasn't been cooperating with your pest management strategies. Unfortunately, anything you spray on to control Japanese Beetles and other insects will have to be reapplied after each rain. Fortunately, there are several non-chemical control methods worth trying that are not dependant on the weather.

1. Removing beetles by hand. Either hand pick beetles from plants or shake them onto tarps placed beneath your plants early in the morning.

2. Cover growing plants with floating row covers (hand pollinate when necessary).

3. Interplant garlic, larkspur, tansy, rue and geranium.

4. Mow the lawn wearing spiked sandals to kill grubs as they feed near the surface in late spring.

5. Apply parasitic nematodes as a top dressing to plants and lawn in the spring.

6. Apply milky spore to grassy areas to help control grubs.

7. Try to attract more birds to your garden that will feed on grubs.

For the most effective control, employ a combination of these strategies along with a regular schedule of spraying.

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Liz from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

Answer:

Fortunately, Oxalis (also known as Common Woodsorrel) is not that difficult to eliminate. I applaud your search for a "green" solution. All too often gardeners look for the quick fix. Using homemade weed killers, like vinegar or salt, are certainly more benign than their synthetic counterparts, but they still change the soil's chemistry in a significant way. They also kill beneficial microorganisms and insects, without which, ironically, the chances for weed, pest and disease problems are greatly increased. Hoeing and hand pulling are probably the most effective methods of control, but if I were you, I would try a combination of strategies just to see what works best.

Oxalis is commonly found in stony or rocky areas and in soils with a more acidic pH. It reproduces by seeds (which are thrown long distances by the pod) and also sometimes from nodes (bulblets) on the stem. Digging out Oxalis is certainly the most labor intensive method of control(you'll have to dig down at least 6 inches), but it's also the greenest method and it will leave your soil healthiest in the long run. You might also try singeing some of the plants with a small propane torch and whacking a few of the plants down to ground level, which will eventually weaken the bulbs. Finally, if you have large areas inhabited by Oxalis, you might find covering the areas with black plastic or thick layers of newspaper or mulch works well. The keys to green weed control are cultivation and mulching.

Good Luck!
Ellen

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If you have even a tiny yard with sunshine, plant a fruit tree! Fruit is only one of the crops you will get from it. Trees do a wonderful job of cleaning the air. They absorb the carbon dioxide from the air and convert it to food. The by product is oxygen!

They also shade your house. We planted three trees on the south side of our house, and their shade drops indoor temperatures by about 20 degrees. Of course, there's all that lovely fruit. It should be eaten fresh if possible, but a mature tree will give you extra. Freeze it, can it, dry it! Maybe even pickle it! Green apples, for instance, can be made into applesauce, but also pickled. (I don't have a recipe.) Apples make a fine dessert all by themselves. If you make a dip like the recipe following, they're pretty cool for kids to munch on. This one came from Diabetic Living, and it tastes just terrific:

In a cup mix 1 tablespoon milk and 2 tablespoons peanut butter. Then gently fold in 2 tablespoons light whipped topping.

Dip apple slices in it. Very satisfying!

Dried cherries are one of the latest gourmet fads right now, and I predict they'll last. You can dry them in the oven, or better yet make a solar dryer so you don't need to run up the power bill. Don't plant too close to the house, though. You could wind up cleaning rotten fruit off the roof. And avoid the septic tank and leach field because the roots could clog them up. If you don't have a lot of yard room, plant a Nanking or Hansen's Bush Cherry. Or even a hedge of bush cherries. They produce early and abundantly. They are beautiful! And the taste is pure cherry. They make excellent jelly, juice and wine. We like to mix the juice half and half with lemon-lime soda, but it's excellent by itself.

By Coreen from Rupert, ID

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May I respond to all the nice people who commented on my home food canning tip? If you want to get started, buy a copy of the newest (2003) edition of the Ball Blue Book. You can find it at hardware stores and your local Cooperative Extension office. Just look them up in the phone book if the hardware store doesn't have a copy. I think mine cost $7.95, which made me flinch but has paid me back a hundred times over and more! Read every single word in that book! It doesn't have a single extra word -- honest! You need it all to figure out processing times.

Regarding the gardening, good gardens are not made in the first season. Just keep building up your soil every year. Keep the soil evenly moist. Make sure sun-loving plants get sun. We found a copy of the old Organic Gardening and Farming encyclopedia many years ago, and it has been a big help to us. Reader's Digest, Better Homes and Gardens and others have also published wonderful guides.

It is absolutely miraculous what profit there can be in a packet of seeds. And that little apple tree you plant now will bear more fruit in a lifetime that you can conceive of. Ours are 20 years old now, and we get many bushels from each one, even though they were damaged by a fire a few years ago. So go for it! Your own food production and preservation are your hedge against climbing gas, postage and grocery prices.

Thanks again for your many kind comments. You made my day!

By Coreen from Rupert, ID

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Staple one of your address labels to your garden flags. If the wind were to blow it off, the person who finds it will know who it belows to and return it.

By Terri from NV

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Question:

Bobbie from Monroe, MI

Answer:

Another strategy is to harvest your tomatoes while they are still a greenish-pink color and let them ripen at room temperature. You can also place them in a cardboard box in single layers separated by newspaper (up to 3 layers) and slide them under your bed or store them in a dark closet. It will take them a little longer to ripen this way, but it will also extend your harvest.

Ellen

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If you own property when crises suddenly happen that leaves one impoverished, there is remaining the responsibility to maintain, as in "when all you have is lemons... make lemonade", we do with what we know, learn, find, are given, have and can do.

Each time I am required to drive even a short distance, I stop by every single place that sells coffee/tea, because that means "free grounds" that would otherwise go to the landfill and be wasted. Most owners/managers are friendly and willing to give them, but a few can't comprehend the importance and seem to be calculating the idea of "selling the grounds" one day. So, while they are free, take advantage of the opportunity, folks.

During the heat wave we recently all experienced, a record over the last 70 yrs., we all but lost our grass, as well while under water restrictions, which remain until our city water supply is replaced by rain. After tending to other essentials and basic needs, we were able to discover a free "fertilizer" which works, and quickly if done correctly.

Wearing gloves, hand spread the free gathered used coffee/tea grounds all over the grass, especially the "dead" places, like you might when fertilizing with chemicals, but as evenly as possible and slightly heavier than with chemicals.

I chose to do this just before an expected rain, because nothing good happens until the grounds are watered in, and because it is another free resource. One application needed watering in on my allotted day to water because weather reports are often unreliable.

The grounds are considered by gardeners for the compost as being "green" material, containing Nitrogen, a much needed nutrient for all green things. It provides great recycling use of a by-product of our coffee drinking and satisfies the grass because it perked up and is responding after only three days!

I plan to watch for any road/swim pool/fence construction and ask for any left over top soil for the huge cracks left by dryness, AND for low places. Should I be able to find an abundance of soil, I will add a top dressing over the coffee grounds.

There is even a use for the heavier used filter paper, other than in the compost: I stuffed them into the cracks around my foundation. The residual grounds seem to repel pests as well, and since most used grounds have a significant number of used filters to dig out, it helps to close the gaps.

If the coffee/tea is still in lumps as it was originally processed or packaged, the lumps need to be mashed before tossing onto the grass.

I have not over used the free grounds, so I believe the secret is to find the proper balance for whatever you apply it to. For my front yard of approximately 40'x90' feet, it takes about 15 gallons of grounds. I have St. Augustine grass where there is live grass.

It takes about 1 hour of making rounds to the places (restaurants, drive-throughs, bakeries, grills, even larger service stations) that sell coffee within two miles of my home, to gather that. I go two-three times/week, so far, and will continue until bad weather while en route to grocery, discount bread store, post office, bill paying, gas stations, neighborhood recycling center, $.50 movie evening, church, charity, curbside-bulk pickup, storing them in an outside receptacle at home until Spring, if any are left over. This way, I am not wasting gasoline.

I apply a little more around the drip line of our evergreen trees/shrubs, NONE around Fall leaf-losers. (I will do that for them in the Spring. )

I worked in a handful of grounds in a 20" pot of a salvaged Scheffera and two days later the leaves were not only perked WAY up but in four days there were new leaves and very glossy, whereas the old leaves were sparse, leggy stemmed, and dull leafed, a likely reason the previous owner tossed it curbside!

I am making a schedule with merchants who sell breakfast, for eggshells, to save them for me, too, although they require a special day for pick-up, and I cannot know for sure that I will have the gas on those days. It's harder to schedule, but if I can figure it out, it is worth it, also for both grass, garden and many container plants. Less impoverished friends/neighbors have proven to be more helpful, admiring how I keep trying to find ways, with God's grace and help to live within my "frugal" means.

God bless our frugal living and Thriftyfun.

By Lynda from TX

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Susan from Leon, Iowa

Answer:

It sounds like you're dealing with Squash vine borers. Signs include vines that suddenly wilt and die, and you can usually see signs of girdling and yellowish castings from borer holes at the base of stems. Adult moths have narrow, olive-brown forewings, clear hindwings and a red abdomen with black rings. There are also long, reddish fringes on the hind legs. The larvae (borers) look like white grubs with a brown head and are about 1 inch long. They bore into the vines of squash-family plants and eat the inner tissue, filling up the stems with castings and causing the vines to collapse. The larvae or pupae overwinter in the soil, emerging as adults around the time the vines start to lengthen. The adults then lay eggs on the stems or leaf stalks near the base of the plants, and when the eggs hatch the larvae bore into the vines to feed. There is usually only one generation of borers per year (two in the south), which lasts about 4-6 weeks until the larvae return to the soil for winter.

Here are some suggestions for controlling them organically:

• Interplant garlic and onion.
• Destroy crops completely in the fall and plow to destroy pupae.
• Plant tolerant cultivars. Ask your county extension agency for suggestions.
• Plant early or late to avoid peak egg-laying times. Use pheromone traps to monitor adult moths.
• Cover seedlings with floating row covers (make sure to pollinate by hand).
• Fertilize plants for vigorous growth.
• Make small slits in the vines and remove borers by hand. Cover the slits with dirt to encourage rooting.
• Release trichogramma wasps to attack eggs.
• Use parasitic nematodes around plants as mulch, or inject nematodes into bore-holes with a medicine dropper. Pack dirt around the hole when finished.
• Spray Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) as soon as runners appear on plants.
• For severe infestations and as a last resort, spray the base of plants with rotenone or pyrethrins to kill young larvae before they can enter the vines.

Ellen

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Question:

I also have a jalapeno plant on my window sill... there were the same white things on one of the leaves (I just picked it off and tossed it.)

Can anyone help!?

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Thanks!
Sarah from IL

Answer:

Without seeing your plants, its tough to make an accurate diagnosis, and therefore difficult to recommend a treatment. There are three common houseplant pests that could pass for "pods." The first are aphids. They come in all shapes and colors. Some have tiny wings, while others are wingless. At times their movement isn't all that noticeable, but if you look carefully, you should detect at least a tiny bit of movement. You may also see a sticky substance on the leaves or under the plant. This is honeydew, a substance excreted by aphids while feeding.

Two other possibilities are mealybugs or scale. Mealybugs don't really look anything like bugs. They almost look like tiny pieces of cotton stuck to the leaves, and are almost completely motionless. Mealybugs usually hang out at the point where the leaf meets the stem. Scale is another pest that sits motionless on plant leaves. They don't look like insects either. Their hard "shells" make the leaves look like they have scabs. Search the Internet for images of these insects and see if any of these match the "pods" you're on your plants.

If one of these pests is your problem, there are a number of things you can do. First of all, if picking the "pods" off by hand doesn't seem to harm the plant tissue in any way, it's a good solution. If you have a spray nozzle on your kitchen sink, the aphids can be blasted off with water. A cotton swab dipped in alcohol and daubed onto mealybugs will control mealybugs. Just don't get any on the leaves you you'll risk burning them. Horticultural oils are useful for smothering Scale. Spraying your plants with a mild insecticidal soap (a little dish soap in water) will deter pests, but that may be all it will do. They may just pack their bags and move on in search of other house plants. These soaps can also burn the plant's leaves if left on too long. If you use them, spray them outside in a shady location and rinse the leaves down within 10-15 minutes.

If none of these pests sound plausible, look up whiteflies or spider mites. Methods of control will be similar-oils, alcohol, water or insecticidal soaps.

Good Luck!
Ellen

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Question:

Allan from New Zealand

Answer:

Unless it's really unsightly, removing lichen can sometimes cause more harm than good. If you absolutely must remove it, you can do so using a soft scrubbing brush and water or by covering the tree with a shade-cloth. Eventually the lichen will die from lack of light.

For readers who don't know, when lichen is present, it is not responsible for any decline you're seeing in your trees. These plants are non-aggressive and only colonize after trees become stressed. The slow growth of the declining plants makes it easy for them to compete. Lichen form through a symbiotic relationship between algae and fungus. The algae produce food (through photosynthesis) to feed the fungus, and the fungus collects moisture (and nutrients) for the algae.

Lichens are great environmental indicators, because they take in everything that is dissolved in the rainwater they collect. They will not grow where there are toxic elements that pollute the water, so if you have them growing in your backyard, you're probably breathing pretty clean air.

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 5b

Dawn from Elmira, NY

Answer:

Here are some simple directions for a soda bottle terrarium.

Supplies

• One 2 or 3 liter clear plastic soda bottle (needs to have a colored base).
• Scissors, craft knife and a teaspoon
• Charcoal
• Coffee filter
• Potting Soil
• Suitable small plants
• Assorted rocks or figures
• Moss

Directions

1. Remove the label and the colored base from the plastic bottle by soaking the bottle in hot, soapy water.

2. The clear portion of the bottom is made of a thicker plastic than the top. Use the tip of a craft knife to punch 5-6 holes around the bottom to create some ventilation. You're going to flip this over so it becomes the top.

3. Now, using a craft knife or scissors, cut off the top of the plastic bottle at the point where it starts to slope toward the top. Flip this over. This end is now the bottom and should now slide easily into the colored base.

4. If the colored end has holes in it, place a coffee filter in the bottom to prevent soil from leaking out the holes.

5. Place a 1/4 or 1/2 inch layer of horticultural charcoal in the colored base, followed by 1 to 2 inches of high quality potting soil so that it comes to 1/2 inch below the bottom's rim.

6. Add 2-3 small plants or cuttings. The plants should have similar growing requirements. Some good plants include Aluminum Plant, Ivy or Baby Tears.

7. Add decorative figures and rocks as desired.

8. Water the terrarium lightly. The soil should be barely moist, but not wet. Cover the soil with moss.

9. Slip the clear plastic top back onto the base until it's firmly seated in place.

10. Keep an eye on the terrarium for a few days. Water droplets should form. If they don't, add a bit more water. If too many form, open the top of the terrarium temporarily to let it dry out a bit.

Ellen

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My beautiful 50+ year old blue spruce is dying from the top. It's over 50 feet high and it's slowly turning brown and dead from the top down. Is this a natural death? It's about 10 feet from my neighbors' driveway and they use a lot of lawn and other chemicals and leave their trucks idling in the driveway. One of my lilac bushes nearby has already died, from the exhaust fumes, I suspect. Help, please.

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Shirley from Kenosha County, WI

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Can I plant wisteria pods or should it just be the seeds?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Pat from Justin, TX

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Where can I find huge African Violets for sale?

Pauline from Woodstock, IL

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How can I get 3 year old lilacs to bloom next spring? I have heard "work Lye in around them" have any of you heard the same?

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Paula

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I have grown an avocado seed and it is 2 years old and approximately 9 feet tall. I have had it outside and need to bring it in for the winter, but it is too tall for the ceiling. Can I cut it back or should I just leave it alone?

Thanks,
Michelle

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When is the best time to plant tulip, lily, crocus and iris bulbs? I ordered about 60 of these bulbs and they said they are fall harvest. Does that mean to plant them in the fall? They are supposed to bloom in the spring, but will the grow during the winter? Will the bulbs be alright in the ground all winter? I've seen lots of iris' around in the spring and they are beautiful, that's what I'm hoping for.

Hardiness Zone: 6b

Thanks,
Chas from WV

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We lost a main branch from our tree in the backyard. I found what it seemed like dry rot. I scraped out excess but what can we do to repair e.g. put in a fill to prevent further rot?

Jenny from Geelong, VIC

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Crafting for Fun and Money!

If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish.

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