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Volume 2, Number 37, September 20, 2007 (Read It Online) This week we have Tomato Growing Secrets and more tips and photos from readers. Thanks for reading, Susan
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If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish. More Information:
By Mary Lou from Abingdon, MD
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Rate It: A Monarch Butterfly and Honey Bee feeding at my Hummingbird feeder. Who says there are no Honey Bees around. My hummingbirds have to fight with them to get at the feeder! By Dorie from Algoma, WI
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Rate It: Do you remember the old wooden baby gates? If you see one at a garage sale or an auction, they make an excellent trellis. I have a clematis growing on mine that I started this year. By Elaine from Iowa
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Rate It: Butterfly on Butterfly Bush in my backyard. By Mary Lou from Abingdon, MD
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Control of Broadleaf Weeds in the Lawn
A well maintained lawn is an integral part of an attractive home landscape. Unfortunately, dandelion, plantain, and other perennial broadleaf weeds can become problems. When broadleaf weeds invade lawns, mechanical and chemical measures can be undertaken to remove or destroy the weeds. In small areas, some weeds can be controlled by pulling and digging. This method is best accomplished after a good rain or deep watering. Unfortunately, pulling and digging is often ineffective on deep-rooted weeds. In many situations, herbicides are the only practical method of weed control. Effective broadleaf herbicides include 2,4-D, MCPP, MCPA, dicamba, and triclopyr. The most effective broadleaf herbicide products contain a mixture of 2 or 3 of these herbicides as no single compound will control all broadleaf weeds. Fall (mid-September through October) is the best time to control perennial broadleaf weeds in the lawn with broadleaf herbicides. In fall, perennial broadleaf weeds are transporting food (carbohydrates) from their foliage to their roots in preparation for winter. Broadleaf herbicides applied in fall will be absorbed by the broadleaf weed's foliage and transported to the roots along with the carbohydrates, resulting in the destruction of the broadleaf weeds. Broadleaf herbicides can be applied as liquids or granules. Before applying any herbicide, carefully read and follow label directions. When applying liquid formulations, potential spray drift problems can be avoided by following simple precautions. Don't spray when winds exceed 5 mph. Also, don't spray when temperatures are forecast to exceed 85F within 24 hours of the application. Since coarse droplets are less likely to drift than fine sprays, select nozzles that produce coarse droplets and use low sprayer pressure when applying liquid broadleaf herbicides. When spraying, keep the nozzle close to the ground. If only a few areas in the lawn have broadleaf weed problems, spot treat these areas rather than spraying the entire lawn. Apply just enough material to wet the leaf surfaces. Granular broadleaf herbicides are often combined with fertilizers. Apply granular broadleaf herbicides and fertilizer/broadleaf herbicide combinations when the weed foliage is wet. Broadleaf herbicides are absorbed by the weed's foliage, not its roots. To be effective, the granules must stick to the weeds and the herbicide absorbed by the weed's foliage. Apply granular products in the early morning when the foliage is wet with dew or irrigate the lawn prior to the application. To insure adequate leaf surface and herbicide absorption, don't mow the lawn 2 or 3 days before treatment. After treatment, allow 3 or 4 days to pass before mowing. This allows sufficient time for the broadleaf weeds to absorb the herbicide and translocate it to their roots. To prevent the broadleaf herbicide from being washed off the plant's foliage, apply these materials when no rain is forecast for 24 hours. Also, don't irrigate treated lawns within 24 hours of the application. Broadleaf herbicides are important tools in controlling weeds in the lawn. However, good cultural practices are also important. Proper mowing, fertilization, and other sound management practices should produce a thick, healthy lawn. A dense stand of grass provides few opportunities for unwanted weeds. Good cultural practices, along with an occasional application of a broadleaf herbicide, should effectively control most broadleaf weeds in the lawn. By Richard Jauron, Department of Horticulture
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Rate It: Early Fall Is The Best Time To Plant Trees And Shrubs September mornings are great, aren't they? It is now beginning to be the best time to plant trees and shrubs. It is a great time because the above ground temperatures are dropping and the below ground temps are still warm. This helps plants get a jump on next spring because the roots still develop in the warm soil while the tops slow down in growth. Also, there are less winds and typically more moisture during this time of year, which of course reduces stress on newly planted shrubs and trees. You should be able to plant just about anything, including pansies, (which will last through next May) mums, winter veggies (starts), most trees and shrubs. Watering your lawn should be reduced by frequency and time. This will help avoid lawn fungus or premature yellowing. Shrubs and trees will be the same as above. This does not include newly planted items. So please enjoy the much needed moisture. Hopefully this will translate into more snow for our area? There are a few exceptions: Palm trees might be better planted in the spring and summer, in order to get a good root establishment before the winter sets in. (for the southern part of New Mexico) Oleanders may experience some winter kill if planted too late in the season, especially the 1 gallon size. The larger sizes seem to suffer the least winter kill. This is usually for the the first winter, after that they will have even less winter or no winter kill as they age. Using a winterizer fertilizer with plenty of potash will help increase winter hardiness just about all shrubs and trees. It is recommended for valuable plants that may suffer from winter damage. Use this product before October 30th. Don't forget to use compost, peat moss, or soil builder and root stimulator on all plantings, and make sure plants have adequate water. By Paul from Las Cruces, NM http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/ Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf81473550.tip.html
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Rate It: Liquid Fence Deer and Rabbit Repellent Review I have used Liquid Fence for deer for the past 5 yrs. It works great lasts forever, but beware, it stinks. Most higher end stores carry it, not Wal-Mart or Lowe's. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf58492244.tip.html
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Rate It: Use Vintage Metal Buckets for Planters Use vintage metal buckets found at yard sales for container gardening. In most cases, the buckets already have holes in the bottom, acting as great drainage holes. Fill with organic materials and plants and, voila, you have a portable container gardening solution! Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf71436649.tip.html
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Rate It: Tomato growing secrets submitted by the ThriftyFun community. Tips For Cracking And End Rot The number 1 secret for growing great tomatoes is water control. A tomato is 90% water. It needs a constant supply of water measured out on a consistent basis. This helps maintain growth and keeps the skin pliable. Split tomatoes usually occur after a dry spell, and a deluge of water, such as a hard rain or a long overdue watering. Easiest method to prevent this is by mulching after the soil has warmed. The next most frequent problem is end rot. The best solution is staking and tying up the tomatoes and getting a soil test. The usual problem is Calcium deficiency. Laying on the ground just accelerates the problem. Water Often Tomatoes need lots of water. When young, water every day. When more mature, use a sprinkler for 10-20 minutes every other day or so depending on heat. This deep waters them. When they are almost ripe (orange) cut down on watering them, as this makes them ripen. Early Girl, Big Boy and Beefsteak are good varieties here, but you might want to check with feed stores, garden centers or neighbors to find the best variety for your area. By Laramay Epsom Salts And Watering Tips I agree with the others. I've found a handful of Epsom salts in the planting hole also helps a lot. Mulch will stave off lots of problems. Deep watering will also help. Here in zone 7, we sometimes dig a hole beside the planting hole and set a 2 liter pop bottle with holes punched in the bottom into that hole, and backfill the dirt. Keep the cap. Fill the bottle with water and adjust the cap to allow the water to flow out the holes-- works well. However (isn't there always one of those!), this spring we were rained upon. Like I was asking folks if they'd started their own "ark" and some of my bottles floated out of the ground, funny! By 2oma Sweet 100 Cherry Tomatoes If you like cherry tomatoes, I recommend Sweet 100. I've never had a problem with them (I'm in Northeastern Ohio, I think we're zone 5) and I eat them right off the vine! By Maryeileen Use Cuttings I have a friend who SWEARS by cuttings. So much that she'll buy the plants already grown or start them from seed, only to pinch off the top 6-8 inches and replant it in the ground. I've tried this, and it does work well. I'm not great with tomatoes, though, so I'm not going to be the best judge on whether or not this is THE way to go. I've had pretty good luck with this method, so she may be on to something. When you replant the cutting, though, be sure to water the heck out of it the first week or so until it stands back up. It looks really sad when you first stick it in the ground. By Beth - MA Water And Manure "Tea" I water them every other day. I did get a hold of some horse manure and I made tea out of it and also I put some all over my garden. Just make sure it is dry. The wet stuff I made the tea with. Here is a picture of one of my tomatoes. By Joyce Wis
Post your tomato growing secrets below!
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Rate It: Ideas for fillers for the base of flower pots from the ThriftyFun community. Pot Within A Pot I have used a small pot upside down in some of my bigger planters. I put a smaller pot upside down in the bottom before I fill mine with dirt. If its one that you plan on keeping in the same place, rocks work well and allow for drainage By Lonefive21 Easter Eggs I have used plastic Easter Eggs. Very lightweight. By Sara Pebbles You could try some pebbles, which would help with drainage, broken clay pots, crumpled up tin foil, or a couple of tin cans (upside down) would fill up some space. Newspaper I've used newspaper before in a pinch. By Misty Plastic Containers I have used empty plastic containers (used milk cartons, water bottles) in the past with good results. Just cut the bottles in about 3 pieces, fill the pot up to a third full, then add your potting soil. By Tamak Pop Bottles Pop bottles with the caps on. Bubble wrap. Common dirt. Store bags. So many of the things we call garbage. I would not use styro peanuts because they have a way of being hard to get out of the dirt when you put the pot away for the winter. By Kimhis Aluminum Cans And Other Recycled Items When I fill really big pots, I use empty aluminum pop cans in the bottom. Just place them opening down. They are lightweight, take up a good deal of room, and after can still be recycled. Another thing I use are packing peanuts, but don't just toss them in the bottom of the pot. Pour them into those plastic net bags that oranges, onions, etc, come in and tie them closed. That way, when you repot the plants, it'll be easy to fish the peanuts out. These ideas will make the pots light, so be careful that the wind doesn't blow the plants over. By Susanmajp Step By Step Tips First, add a simple coffee filter over the drain hole. Then add whatever you have, newspaper will work, but when wet, it will pack down, so allow for that by packing and wetting yourself and not adding too much. You need to know how big your plants will get. If over 24 inches tall, and only one, you can afford to fill the pot with other material. But if more than one or two, I'd use gravel, new charcoal, and find some ordinary soil to use in it, because otherwise you will have good growth until the roots get to the soilless material and likely take a turn for the worst, perhaps even dying. That would be tragic, so I'd add gravel and ordinary soil. Watch for traffic and lusting workers and don't go there alone. You should not need more than two or three shovels full of extra soil, beneath your store bought better soil. If you plan to leave a clay pot outside in the heat, it will dry out, so watch your watering or mulch with pine needles, cut grass layer, or crushed rock. If overwintering outside, the clay pots will crack with ice. If plastic pots, then they should work, but the drainage is often a problem since they seldom have enough space between bottom and saucer. You could remedy that problem with a few marbles of the same size inside the saucer under the pot, to allow for better drainage. Good luck and God bless you. : ) By Lynda Recycled Packing Materials
You can also break up bits of polystyrene packing material - works the same way as the packing peanuts. You can get two kinds of packing peanut - plastic ones would work in your pots, but the biodegradable corn starch peanuts might not hold up too well. By Corrinne I always use broken polystyrene or those little bows that come in packaging. The pots aren't as heavy and of coarse you save money by not having to buy as much compost. Hope this helps, Jan, Grantham, UK By Blackbess Use packing peanuts or break up Styrofoam into small clumps. Don't forget to cover the hole in the bottom with, say, a coffee filter then your packing stuff then your potting soil. Water then add more soil. That should do it. By Glenda I use styroform. I save it from the stuff I buy (TV's, stereos, appliances, etc), then I break it into smaller pieces. Before I put it in the pot, I first place a piece of newspaper on the bottom to cover the hole. Then, I add the styrofoam one third to half way and fill the rest with potting soil. Not only is it a filler, it weighs nothing!By Smartfell-r Do you have any more ideas? Feel free to post them below.
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Rate It: Advice on how and when to prune hydrangeas from the ThriftyFun community. Don't Prune, Protect Instead I'm wondering why you have to prune them at all? The late freeze got just about everyone's mops this year, mine included. As for pruning, no pruning after about the first week or so of summer (depending on your growing area). After that, the plant is setting the buds for the next spring's flowers UNLESS you have an Endless Summer type that will bloom on old or new wood. Protection from winter cold is key, this site has lots of really great info on protection and all other stuff about hydrangeas! Good folks there! Look for 'winter protection' in the FAQ''s.When the leaves fall off in winter, and the bare sticks are left over, those are what we call 'Old Wood' and is where the blooms are! Those are the branches that must be protected! I gather mine together and tie them so that I can get a cage of chicken wire around them, then fill the 'cage' with dry leaves, then wrap the whole thing with burlap and stake it down so it cannot blow over and that stays until I KNOW FOR SURE there will be no more freezes! HA! With the kind of spring we had it's very hard to keep them under cover but I didn't go back and cover them again when the weather turned cold, so it's my own durned fault! To get the REALLY dead wood, wait until the plant is fully leafed out to look for branches that didn't make it. Best of luck to you this year! Move The Hydrangea Instead Of Pruning The truth is, if you have to prune it because it's getting too big, you need to move the whole plant. This isn't as hard to do as it sounds! Cut a trench all around the bush at the dripline, and then slide your shovel under it to free it up, then slide the bush onto a tarp to drag it over to the new hole you have waiting. God bless you! By Kimhis Protection May Not Be Needed I prune all the dead wood out of mine every spring. It's easy to tell that branches have live buds on them and what will not. As for covering them, we get ice storms here and it is often well below freezing, and I have never 'protected' mine. It is extremely rare that mine does not bloom. My grandmother never covered hers (northeastern Ohio) and she always had large full heads to her blooms. Sometimes she'd cut it all back almost to the ground, and she still got blooms by the second year. By Susanmajp Post your own experiences below.
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Rate It: Fall Planting Guide for Spring Bulbs
Fall is not the time for cold climate flower gardeners to "live in the moment." It is actually the time when planning for next spring's blooms will produce the biggest payoffs. Here is a handy guide on how to plan and plant bulbs for the first blooms of next year's season. Plant the Right Variety: Compile a list of suitable choices by finding out what types of bulbs grow best in your climate. All bulbs need cold weather to develop, but some are more susceptible to death or damage from freezing. Look for the biggest bulbs and make sure they are free from pits and mold. The longevity of your plantings will depend on the type of bulbs you select. Some, like Tulips, are usually only bred to last from 1-3 years. Others, like Galantus, will last for years. Chose bulbs carefully (early, mid and late spring bloomers) and you can enjoy flowers from bulbs long into next year's growing season. Be careful when ordering bulbs from catalogs or from growers whose stock in not grown in your climate. Good growers will list the hardiness zones for each variety. If it isn't listed as hardy for your area, don't buy it. Plant them at the Right Depth: The type and size of the bulbs you are planting will determine the depth of planting. As a rule, larger bulbs need to be planted deeper than smaller bulbs. Measure the diameter of the bulb and then multiply that number by three to find the proper planting depth. Tulips are generally planted to a depth of 7-8 inches. All bulbs should be planted with their flat end (basil plate) down so their roots can grow into the soil and their tops up, since that is where the bloom will emerge.
Plant them in Well-Drained Soil: Bulbs need lots of water when they are first planted so they can put their energy into developing roots. They don't need much water after that, so make sure to plant them in well-drained soil. Plant them in the Back: After blooming, it takes a long time for foliage to die back. Planting bulbs along the back of your perennial beds will help later emerging plants hide unsightly foliage as it is dying. Plant them in Clumps: Bulbs planted in rows end up looking straggly because invariably one or more in a row will fail to come up. Spring bulbs will do much better and look much better if they are planted in clumps. Think circles, triangles, or oval shaped plantings for masses of color. Plant them in Sun and Shade: Planting bulbs in both sunny and shady areas of the garden will extend your blooming season. Sunny bulbs will emerge and bloom first. Protect them from Freezing: Keep bulbs from freezing and thawing over winter by mulching them with a few in inches of clean straw or raking fall leaves onto bulb beds. Include the depth of your mulch to the overall depth of your planting. You can remove the mulch in spring or let it continue decomposing into the soil. Protect them from Critters: One of squirrels favorite fall activities is digging up next spring's bulbs. Tacking down a bit of screen or sprinkling blood meal over beds will help deter most hungry wildlife. If you have a history of losing bulbs to foraging animals, try going heavy on daffodils. They don't need protection because their bulbs are poisonous. Animals know it and avoid them. Here is a list of some popular fall bulbs: Daffodils, Lilies (Asiatic, Oriental, Martagon and Trumpet varieties), Hyacinths, Crocuses, Alliums, Tulips (hundreds of varieties available), Galantus, Snow Drops, Anemone, Ornamental Onions and Blue Squall. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf74612375.tip.html
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Rate It: I like to wash my hands outside after gardening and weeding. I gather up soap pieces, put them inside an empty onion net, and tie it to an outdoor spigot. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf439810.tip.html
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Rate It: Ways to reuse old tires as posted by the ThriftyFun community. Post your own tips here. Mosquitoes Love Tires PLEASE don't leave old tires laying around -- they are mosquito breeding grounds if they are allowed to catch rain water. Store them indoors somewhere until you figure out what you want to do with them. If you do choose to discard them, check around. Where I live, you can't just put them out with the garbage, but the city offers an annual "tire amnesty day" (usually around Earth Day) where they will take them at no charge, and they are recycled. By Becki in Indiana Beware Cadmium Poisoning Just a caution about growing food in tyres. Tyres contain cadmium which fixes the colour in rubber. Cadmium, though little talked about, is one of the more poisonous of the metals in our environment. Potatoes are known to accumulate cadmium, as do cabbages, carrots, radishes, lettuce, turnips, tobacco, cocoa and peanuts. Obviously potatoes are a concern because they form a large part of most people's diet. As is the case with all heavy metal poisoning, the early symptoms are not noticed until it is too late. By Aussieluci Old Tires Are Safer I was reading about using old tires and they discussed chemical leaching. One thing they said was that the tires *were* old so that they had had lots of time under adverse condition to oxidize and vent harmful gases and chemicals. That is why new tires smell bad and old ones typically do not. I found this info and a lot more on tire houses at http://www.touchtheearthranch.com This was in the FAQ section. I'm quoting: "The surface of used tires has been subjected to years of exposure to oxygen by high speed rotation in the atmosphere. This exposure causes a phenomenon called oxidation. Oxidation 'interlocks' the surface molecules with oxygen and 'out-gassing' (fly-away molecules of synthetic rubber) is considerably limited, if not stopped completely. It's the new tires that stink/outgas, they just need to "rust" for a while, before they are suitable for use as a building material." By Jennie in MT Hanging Table Or Planter I made a hanging table with a tire. I bought a wood round the size of the tire. I drilled 4 holes through the wood and the tire. and hung it with heavy duty chain. I then hung the chains over a strong tree branch and bolted the chain together. I cut small holes in a couple of places in the wood for cup holes. I painted and sealed the wood. I now sit under the tree and even with the wind the glasses of iced tea don't slip off. I'm going to make another one as a hanging planter for shade loving plants. Same idea but smaller round of wood inside the tire to cover the bottom, a few drain holes and plant. Hang the same way as the table. By Steamer Fishing Uses And Recycling The fishing fleets use them as bumpers for boats, tied off short and thrown over the port or starbord side they prevent boats from slamming into each other or the dock when tied to them. Draggers and trawlers use Cookies; small donuts of tires and tire casings whole to make cod ends for fishing on the bottom of the oceans. In California and more and more states, they are starting programs to recover energy by burning them instead of coal. The most common use now is ground up for asphalt fillers. By James Build With Tires Tires filled with earth and plastered over to create a walled enclosure with a roof will ensure the room made will take excess heat away from the room and, in times of cold, bring extra heat into the room. Such is the power of the tyre, no more lengthy power bills. By Moore Horse Tire Swing I don't know how they do it, but I have seen where they take an old tire and cut it to make a tire swing that looks like a horse (complete with stirrups). It was at our local petting zoo. By Khickman Planters With Inside Out Tires In Spain, I saw beautiful displays of geraniums in planters that were made from old car tires. They just cut through the middle all the way round and turn them inside out so they look like old fashioned egg timers. Paint the outside white, line the top part with plastic, stick in some soil, plant up and away you go! By Scraig1 Strawberry Planter I've seen a beautiful strawberry planter made of tires. Stack them pyramid-style, so that they overlap leaving sections of the insides of the tires open for planting strawberries. Yum! The one I saw had the outsides of the tires painted bright colors. By Shaunta Tirecrafting.com Go to http://www.tirecrafting.com, it has tons of ideas for tires. I had no idea you could use them for retaining walls! By Lora Retaining Walls You can use whole tires, just like block walls staggering them. Start off with a level surface, dig down if you have to and start your first row, making sure it is level from one end to the other. Now comes the hard part, you have to pack each tire with soil and I mean tightly. I use a short handled sledge hammer. When you get the first row, done drive a 24 inch piece of 3/8 rebar at the back of each tire. Start your next row, staggering the tires so the lines do not match up and do the same thing all over. I have done one wall 90 feet long and 12 feet high 8 years ago and it is still solid as a rock. You need to plant a high fibrous root plant in each tire, I like red honey suckle as it cascades and hides the tires and the wall but monkey grass lariope does well also. By Stanley Tire Table We found a picture and want to replicate it. You take 2 or 3 old tires and place them one on top of another with a round of different shaped wooden board and either paint it or cover it with faux diamond plate. Use it as a nightstand or table top stand for a room or guys area. By Canadian Momma Making A Planter I have used old tires for planters and it works good. Just scallop around the tire and turn it imside out. By jbaby7162000 Sand Box When I was a little girl, my mom got a hold of a huge tractor tire, laid it flat on the ground and filled it up with play sand and we had a fun sand box! You can put a tarp over it when not in use to keep it from being the local "kitty box". By wyoKrista  Tire Sandals I don't know where to find instructions, but I remember some kind of sandals where the soles were made from old tires. By AnnMel Here is a site I found to make the sandals. I also came across this other website that shows different uses for tires. Scroll to the bottom for different links. Hope this helps!!By Jackie Several Outdoor Uses
Regards Jo More Ideas
By June Brainstorming On Used Tires Well, the first thing that comes to mind is your ever friendly tire swing. You could also make your kids a tire wall to climb or an obstacle course. Of course these are rather obvious choices so here's some not so obvious choices:
By Debra in Colorado Use As A Base I have some suggestions for the use of old tires, if this is the proper place to offer them:
By Loy
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I want to start peach trees from pits. Do I have to remove the seed from inside the pit first? Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf60080103.tip.html
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Rate It: We just bought a new house on a 1/2 acre and it is over run with weeds. Lots of sticker type weeds also. In the front of the house I wanted to do a big lawn. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf63115906.tip.html
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Rate It: Our tomato plants seem to have wilt which also seems to be affecting the rest of our vegetable plants. We do get some tomatoes but the plants look in poor health. Anyway to get rid of this problem in the soil? Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf44264391.tip.html
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Rate It: Looking for a frugal solution to an everyday problem? Submit your request here: Click Here
If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish. More Information:
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Volume 2, Number 37, September 20, 2007 (Read It Online) Thanks for reading, Susan
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If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish. More Information:
By Mary Lou from Abingdon, MD
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Rate It: A Monarch Butterfly and Honey Bee feeding at my Hummingbird feeder. Who says there are no Honey Bees around. My hummingbirds have to fight with them to get at the feeder! By Dorie from Algoma, WI
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Rate It: Do you remember the old wooden baby gates? If you see one at a garage sale or an auction, they make an excellent trellis. I have a clematis growing on mine that I started this year. By Elaine from Iowa
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Rate It: Butterfly on Butterfly Bush in my backyard. By Mary Lou from Abingdon, MD
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Control of Broadleaf Weeds in the Lawn
A well maintained lawn is an integral part of an attractive home landscape. Unfortunately, dandelion, plantain, and other perennial broadleaf weeds can become problems. When broadleaf weeds invade lawns, mechanical and chemical measures can be undertaken to remove or destroy the weeds. In small areas, some weeds can be controlled by pulling and digging. This method is best accomplished after a good rain or deep watering. Unfortunately, pulling and digging is often ineffective on deep-rooted weeds. In many situations, herbicides are the only practical method of weed control. Effective broadleaf herbicides include 2,4-D, MCPP, MCPA, dicamba, and triclopyr. The most effective broadleaf herbicide products contain a mixture of 2 or 3 of these herbicides as no single compound will control all broadleaf weeds. Fall (mid-September through October) is the best time to control perennial broadleaf weeds in the lawn with broadleaf herbicides. In fall, perennial broadleaf weeds are transporting food (carbohydrates) from their foliage to their roots in preparation for winter. Broadleaf herbicides applied in fall will be absorbed by the broadleaf weed's foliage and transported to the roots along with the carbohydrates, resulting in the destruction of the broadleaf weeds. Broadleaf herbicides can be applied as liquids or granules. Before applying any herbicide, carefully read and follow label directions. When applying liquid formulations, potential spray drift problems can be avoided by following simple precautions. Don't spray when winds exceed 5 mph. Also, don't spray when temperatures are forecast to exceed 85F within 24 hours of the application. Since coarse droplets are less likely to drift than fine sprays, select nozzles that produce coarse droplets and use low sprayer pressure when applying liquid broadleaf herbicides. When spraying, keep the nozzle close to the ground. If only a few areas in the lawn have broadleaf weed problems, spot treat these areas rather than spraying the entire lawn. Apply just enough material to wet the leaf surfaces. Granular broadleaf herbicides are often combined with fertilizers. Apply granular broadleaf herbicides and fertilizer/broadleaf herbicide combinations when the weed foliage is wet. Broadleaf herbicides are absorbed by the weed's foliage, not its roots. To be effective, the granules must stick to the weeds and the herbicide absorbed by the weed's foliage. Apply granular products in the early morning when the foliage is wet with dew or irrigate the lawn prior to the application. To insure adequate leaf surface and herbicide absorption, don't mow the lawn 2 or 3 days before treatment. After treatment, allow 3 or 4 days to pass before mowing. This allows sufficient time for the broadleaf weeds to absorb the herbicide and translocate it to their roots. To prevent the broadleaf herbicide from being washed off the plant's foliage, apply these materials when no rain is forecast for 24 hours. Also, don't irrigate treated lawns within 24 hours of the application. Broadleaf herbicides are important tools in controlling weeds in the lawn. However, good cultural practices are also important. Proper mowing, fertilization, and other sound management practices should produce a thick, healthy lawn. A dense stand of grass provides few opportunities for unwanted weeds. Good cultural practices, along with an occasional application of a broadleaf herbicide, should effectively control most broadleaf weeds in the lawn. By Richard Jauron, Department of Horticulture
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Rate It: Early Fall Is The Best Time To Plant Trees And Shrubs September mornings are great, aren't they? It is now beginning to be the best time to plant trees and shrubs. It is a great time because the above ground temperatures are dropping and the below ground temps are still warm. This helps plants get a jump on next spring because the roots still develop in the warm soil while the tops slow down in growth. Also, there are less winds and typically more moisture during this time of year, which of course reduces stress on newly planted shrubs and trees. You should be able to plant just about anything, including pansies, (which will last through next May) mums, winter veggies (starts), most trees and shrubs. Watering your lawn should be reduced by frequency and time. This will help avoid lawn fungus or premature yellowing. Shrubs and trees will be the same as above. This does not include newly planted items. So please enjoy the much needed moisture. Hopefully this will translate into more snow for our area? There are a few exceptions: Palm trees might be better planted in the spring and summer, in order to get a good root establishment before the winter sets in. (for the southern part of New Mexico) Oleanders may experience some winter kill if planted too late in the season, especially the 1 gallon size. The larger sizes seem to suffer the least winter kill. This is usually for the the first winter, after that they will have even less winter or no winter kill as they age. Using a winterizer fertilizer with plenty of potash will help increase winter hardiness just about all shrubs and trees. It is recommended for valuable plants that may suffer from winter damage. Use this product before October 30th. Don't forget to use compost, peat moss, or soil builder and root stimulator on all plantings, and make sure plants have adequate water. By Paul from Las Cruces, NM http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/ Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf81473550.tip.html
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Rate It: Liquid Fence Deer and Rabbit Repellent Review I have used Liquid Fence for deer for the past 5 yrs. It works great lasts forever, but beware, it stinks. Most higher end stores carry it, not Wal-Mart or Lowe's. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf58492244.tip.html
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Rate It: Use Vintage Metal Buckets for Planters Use vintage metal buckets found at yard sales for container gardening. In most cases, the buckets already have holes in the bottom, acting as great drainage holes. Fill with organic materials and plants and, voila, you have a portable container gardening solution! Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf71436649.tip.html
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Rate It: Tomato growing secrets submitted by the ThriftyFun community. Tips For Cracking And End Rot The number 1 secret for growing great tomatoes is water control. A tomato is 90% water. It needs a constant supply of water measured out on a consistent basis. This helps maintain growth and keeps the skin pliable. Split tomatoes usually occur after a dry spell, and a deluge of water, such as a hard rain or a long overdue watering. Easiest method to prevent this is by mulching after the soil has warmed. The next most frequent problem is end rot. The best solution is staking and tying up the tomatoes and getting a soil test. The usual problem is Calcium deficiency. Laying on the ground just accelerates the problem. Water Often Tomatoes need lots of water. When young, water every day. When more mature, use a sprinkler for 10-20 minutes every other day or so depending on heat. This deep waters them. When they are almost ripe (orange) cut down on watering them, as this makes them ripen. Early Girl, Big Boy and Beefsteak are good varieties here, but you might want to check with feed stores, garden centers or neighbors to find the best variety for your area. By Laramay Epsom Salts And Watering Tips I agree with the others. I've found a handful of Epsom salts in the planting hole also helps a lot. Mulch will stave off lots of problems. Deep watering will also help. Here in zone 7, we sometimes dig a hole beside the planting hole and set a 2 liter pop bottle with holes punched in the bottom into that hole, and backfill the dirt. Keep the cap. Fill the bottle with water and adjust the cap to allow the water to flow out the holes-- works well. However (isn't there always one of those!), this spring we were rained upon. Like I was asking folks if they'd started their own "ark" and some of my bottles floated out of the ground, funny! By 2oma Sweet 100 Cherry Tomatoes If you like cherry tomatoes, I recommend Sweet 100. I've never had a problem with them (I'm in Northeastern Ohio, I think we're zone 5) and I eat them right off the vine! By Maryeileen Use Cuttings I have a friend who SWEARS by cuttings. So much that she'll buy the plants already grown or start them from seed, only to pinch off the top 6-8 inches and replant it in the ground. I've tried this, and it does work well. I'm not great with tomatoes, though, so I'm not going to be the best judge on whether or not this is THE way to go. I've had pretty good luck with this method, so she may be on to something. When you replant the cutting, though, be sure to water the heck out of it the first week or so until it stands back up. It looks really sad when you first stick it in the ground. By Beth - MA Water And Manure "Tea" I water them every other day. I did get a hold of some horse manure and I made tea out of it and also I put some all over my garden. Just make sure it is dry. The wet stuff I made the tea with. Here is a picture of one of my tomatoes. By Joyce Wis
Post your tomato growing secrets below!
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Rate It: Ideas for fillers for the base of flower pots from the ThriftyFun community. Pot Within A Pot I have used a small pot upside down in some of my bigger planters. I put a smaller pot upside down in the bottom before I fill mine with dirt. If its one that you plan on keeping in the same place, rocks work well and allow for drainage By Lonefive21 Easter Eggs I have used plastic Easter Eggs. Very lightweight. By Sara Pebbles You could try some pebbles, which would help with drainage, broken clay pots, crumpled up tin foil, or a couple of tin cans (upside down) would fill up some space. Newspaper I've used newspaper before in a pinch. By Misty Plastic Containers I have used empty plastic containers (used milk cartons, water bottles) in the past with good results. Just cut the bottles in about 3 pieces, fill the pot up to a third full, then add your potting soil. By Tamak Pop Bottles Pop bottles with the caps on. Bubble wrap. Common dirt. Store bags. So many of the things we call garbage. I would not use styro peanuts because they have a way of being hard to get out of the dirt when you put the pot away for the winter. By Kimhis Aluminum Cans And Other Recycled Items When I fill really big pots, I use empty aluminum pop cans in the bottom. Just place them opening down. They are lightweight, take up a good deal of room, and after can still be recycled. Another thing I use are packing peanuts, but don't just toss them in the bottom of the pot. Pour them into those plastic net bags that oranges, onions, etc, come in and tie them closed. That way, when you repot the plants, it'll be easy to fish the peanuts out. These ideas will make the pots light, so be careful that the wind doesn't blow the plants over. By Susanmajp Step By Step Tips First, add a simple coffee filter over the drain hole. Then add whatever you have, newspaper will work, but when wet, it will pack down, so allow for that by packing and wetting yourself and not adding too much. You need to know how big your plants will get. If over 24 inches tall, and only one, you can afford to fill the pot with other material. But if more than one or two, I'd use gravel, new charcoal, and find some ordinary soil to use in it, because otherwise you will have good growth until the roots get to the soilless material and likely take a turn for the worst, perhaps even dying. That would be tragic, so I'd add gravel and ordinary soil. Watch for traffic and lusting workers and don't go there alone. You should not need more than two or three shovels full of extra soil, beneath your store bought better soil. If you plan to leave a clay pot outside in the heat, it will dry out, so watch your watering or mulch with pine needles, cut grass layer, or crushed rock. If overwintering outside, the clay pots will crack with ice. If plastic pots, then they should work, but the drainage is often a problem since they seldom have enough space between bottom and saucer. You could remedy that problem with a few marbles of the same size inside the saucer under the pot, to allow for better drainage. Good luck and God bless you. : ) By Lynda Recycled Packing Materials
You can also break up bits of polystyrene packing material - works the same way as the packing peanuts. You can get two kinds of packing peanut - plastic ones would work in your pots, but the biodegradable corn starch peanuts might not hold up too well. By Corrinne I always use broken polystyrene or those little bows that come in packaging. The pots aren't as heavy and of coarse you save money by not having to buy as much compost. Hope this helps, Jan, Grantham, UK By Blackbess Use packing peanuts or break up Styrofoam into small clumps. Don't forget to cover the hole in the bottom with, say, a coffee filter then your packing stuff then your potting soil. Water then add more soil. That should do it. By Glenda I use styroform. I save it from the stuff I buy (TV's, stereos, appliances, etc), then I break it into smaller pieces. Before I put it in the pot, I first place a piece of newspaper on the bottom to cover the hole. Then, I add the styrofoam one third to half way and fill the rest with potting soil. Not only is it a filler, it weighs nothing!By Smartfell-r Do you have any more ideas? Feel free to post them below.
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Rate It: Advice on how and when to prune hydrangeas from the ThriftyFun community. Don't Prune, Protect Instead I'm wondering why you have to prune them at all? The late freeze got just about everyone's mops this year, mine included. As for pruning, no pruning after about the first week or so of summer (depending on your growing area). After that, the plant is setting the buds for the next spring's flowers UNLESS you have an Endless Summer type that will bloom on old or new wood. Protection from winter cold is key, this site has lots of really great info on protection and all other stuff about hydrangeas! Good folks there! Look for 'winter protection' in the FAQ''s.When the leaves fall off in winter, and the bare sticks are left over, those are what we call 'Old Wood' and is where the blooms are! Those are the branches that must be protected! I gather mine together and tie them so that I can get a cage of chicken wire around them, then fill the 'cage' with dry leaves, then wrap the whole thing with burlap and stake it down so it cannot blow over and that stays until I KNOW FOR SURE there will be no more freezes! HA! With the kind of spring we had it's very hard to keep them under cover but I didn't go back and cover them again when the weather turned cold, so it's my own durned fault! To get the REALLY dead wood, wait until the plant is fully leafed out to look for branches that didn't make it. Best of luck to you this year! Move The Hydrangea Instead Of Pruning The truth is, if you have to prune it because it's getting too big, you need to move the whole plant. This isn't as hard to do as it sounds! Cut a trench all around the bush at the dripline, and then slide your shovel under it to free it up, then slide the bush onto a tarp to drag it over to the new hole you have waiting. God bless you! By Kimhis Protection May Not Be Needed I prune all the dead wood out of mine every spring. It's easy to tell that branches have live buds on them and what will not. As for covering them, we get ice storms here and it is often well below freezing, and I have never 'protected' mine. It is extremely rare that mine does not bloom. My grandmother never covered hers (northeastern Ohio) and she always had large full heads to her blooms. Sometimes she'd cut it all back almost to the ground, and she still got blooms by the second year. By Susanmajp Post your own experiences below.
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Rate It: Fall Planting Guide for Spring Bulbs
Fall is not the time for cold climate flower gardeners to "live in the moment." It is actually the time when planning for next spring's blooms will produce the biggest payoffs. Here is a handy guide on how to plan and plant bulbs for the first blooms of next year's season. Plant the Right Variety: Compile a list of suitable choices by finding out what types of bulbs grow best in your climate. All bulbs need cold weather to develop, but some are more susceptible to death or damage from freezing. Look for the biggest bulbs and make sure they are free from pits and mold. The longevity of your plantings will depend on the type of bulbs you select. Some, like Tulips, are usually only bred to last from 1-3 years. Others, like Galantus, will last for years. Chose bulbs carefully (early, mid and late spring bloomers) and you can enjoy flowers from bulbs long into next year's growing season. Be careful when ordering bulbs from catalogs or from growers whose stock in not grown in your climate. Good growers will list the hardiness zones for each variety. If it isn't listed as hardy for your area, don't buy it. Plant them at the Right Depth: The type and size of the bulbs you are planting will determine the depth of planting. As a rule, larger bulbs need to be planted deeper than smaller bulbs. Measure the diameter of the bulb and then multiply that number by three to find the proper planting depth. Tulips are generally planted to a depth of 7-8 inches. All bulbs should be planted with their flat end (basil plate) down so their roots can grow into the soil and their tops up, since that is where the bloom will emerge.
Plant them in Well-Drained Soil: Bulbs need lots of water when they are first planted so they can put their energy into developing roots. They don't need much water after that, so make sure to plant them in well-drained soil. Plant them in the Back: After blooming, it takes a long time for foliage to die back. Planting bulbs along the back of your perennial beds will help later emerging plants hide unsightly foliage as it is dying. Plant them in Clumps: Bulbs planted in rows end up looking straggly because invariably one or more in a row will fail to come up. Spring bulbs will do much better and look much better if they are planted in clumps. Think circles, triangles, or oval shaped plantings for masses of color. Plant them in Sun and Shade: Planting bulbs in both sunny and shady areas of the garden will extend your blooming season. Sunny bulbs will emerge and bloom first. Protect them from Freezing: Keep bulbs from freezing and thawing over winter by mulching them with a few in inches of clean straw or raking fall leaves onto bulb beds. Include the depth of your mulch to the overall depth of your planting. You can remove the mulch in spring or let it continue decomposing into the soil. Protect them from Critters: One of squirrels favorite fall activities is digging up next spring's bulbs. Tacking down a bit of screen or sprinkling blood meal over beds will help deter most hungry wildlife. If you have a history of losing bulbs to foraging animals, try going heavy on daffodils. They don't need protection because their bulbs are poisonous. Animals know it and avoid them. Here is a list of some popular fall bulbs: Daffodils, Lilies (Asiatic, Oriental, Martagon and Trumpet varieties), Hyacinths, Crocuses, Alliums, Tulips (hundreds of varieties available), Galantus, Snow Drops, Anemone, Ornamental Onions and Blue Squall. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf74612375.tip.html
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Rate It: I like to wash my hands outside after gardening and weeding. I gather up soap pieces, put them inside an empty onion net, and tie it to an outdoor spigot. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf439810.tip.html
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Rate It: Ways to reuse old tires as posted by the ThriftyFun community. Post your own tips here.
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Rate It:
I want to start peach trees from pits. Do I have to remove the seed from inside the pit first? Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf60080103.tip.html
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Rate It: We just bought a new house on a 1/2 acre and it is over run with weeds. Lots of sticker type weeds also. In the front of the house I wanted to do a big lawn. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf63115906.tip.html
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Rate It: Our tomato plants seem to have wilt which also seems to be affecting the rest of our vegetable plants. We do get some tomatoes but the plants look in poor health. Anyway to get rid of this problem in the soil? Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf44264391.tip.html
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Rate It: Looking for a frugal solution to an everyday problem? Submit your request here: Click Here
If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish. More Information:
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After digging a hole to the proper depth, loosen the soil below where the bulbs will be placed. Add a bit of organic fertilizer, top it off with a bit of dirt, place the bulbs in the hole and then fill in the hole with dirt.
After digging a hole to the proper depth, loosen the soil below where the bulbs will be placed. Add a bit of organic fertilizer, top it off with a bit of dirt, place the bulbs in the hole and then fill in the hole with dirt.
