Native landscaping is the process of cultivating plants that are indigenous (native) to your area. One hundred and fifty years ago, before European settlement, prairies, woodlands and savannas covered most of our North American landscape. Through years of farming and urban development, we have altered and replaced most of our indigenous plants, sometimes by accident, sometimes on purpose.

Some of these plant replacements have become invasive and taken over, suppressing the ability of our native plants to thrive. These "exotics" create a uniform habitat that is often not utilized by native insects, animals and birds. Reintroducing native plants into your garden or landscape design can help bring back your area's natural heritage and restore the ecology of the local environment.

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Potato Peels for Mulch and Fertilizer

I use potato peels as mulch and fertilizer.

By Julie from WV

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Black Mold on Lilac Bushes

Q: My Lilac Bushes have black mold on them, what is it and is it harmful?

Cheryl

A: Cheryl,

It sounds like sooty mold. This type of mold is associated with aphids, scales, and other sucking insects. The insects excrete a sticky substance called honeydew, that unless washed off by the rain, sticky to the leaves. The spores of sooty molds then travel by wind and land on the sticks honeydew to develop. These molds develop exclusively on honeydew, and although the molds themselves won't harm your plant, they look pretty awful and if you have a large mold problem, the leaves may not receive enough light.

To control sooty mold you need to control the sucking insects that secret the honeydew (in your case, probably aphids or scale).

By Ellen Brown

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Flour for Plants and Flowers

Sprinkle flour over plants and flowers to keep bugs off and rabbits away.

By Audrey Purvis from Westminster, Md.

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Plants That Deer Won't Eat

Q: Deer won't eat everything and some of what they or don't eat is pretty. I would be interested in hearing what yard plants (domestic or wild) others have successfully grown in areas where deer are frequent visitors. I am not looking for ways to keep deer out. I am interested in plants that deer will ignore.

Thanks,
Rene

A: Rene,

It's true that deer find some plants more appealing than others. However, when environmental stressors like population pressure start to limit the local food supply, deer will eat just about anything to survive. Another strategy is to plant vegetation deer love around the perimeter of your property, in order for them to leave the rest of your garden alone.

To find lists of plants that deer are more likely to ignore suitable to your specific zone, visit the website of your local extension agency. You can find a list of resources by state listed at the Cooperative State Research, Education, and Extension Service (CSREES) website.

www.csrees.usda.gov/qlinks/partners/state_partners.html

By Ellen Brown

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Getting Rid of Poison Ivy and Poison Oak

Q: I can get rid of the trouble if I get in contact with it. Scrub with a rich lather of homemade lye soap and I can handle the stuff with my bear hands but how do I eradicate it all together?

Thanks in advance.
wright6421

A: Wright6421,

There are a few strategies for getting rid of Poison Ivy completely, namely hand-pulling (wear gloves, long-sleeves and long pants) or digging out the roots (get the entire root or risk re-sprouting).

The chemical irritant in Poison Ivy and Poison Oak that causes a skin reaction is present in all parts of the plant (even the roots!), so be careful to avoid all direct contact. This is true even after killing them and for years afterward, so be careful when removing dead roots and stems. And don't burn the stems, as inhaling the fumes can pose serious health risks.

You can also try cutting stems to the ground and spraying the stubs with glyphosate (Roundup brand) or triclopyr (Ortho's Brush-B-Gone Poison Ivy, Poison Oak & Brush Killer). If you have ornamentals growing among your Poison Ivy and Poison Oak, paint the herbicides on the leaves instead of spraying. It may take one or more attempts of any combination of these strategies to eliminate the plants for good.

By Ellen Brown

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Carpet Pathways in the Garden

Use old pieces of carpet in the pathways of your garden. Cover it with mulch, it makes the best weed block ever and lasts a long time. Not to mention it's FREE!

By CoCo Cannon from Neptune Beach, Florida

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Propagating a Weeping Willow Tree

Q: How do you start new trees from an existing Weeping Willow tree?

Jeff James

A: Jeff,

Willows contain a plant hormone that promotes rooting so they are easy to propagate. A cut branch can actually be stuck directly into moist soil in the summer and roots will develop after only a few short weeks. To root other times during the year, you can start them in a vase of water and transplant them outside in the spring. Use cuttings that are about 1/2 to 1 inch thick in diameter and about 12 - 16 inches long. You can pound them into the ground with a rubber mallet until only a couple of leaf nodes (1-2 inches of the cutting) remain above the ground. You can also tie bundles of cuttings together (each about as thick as a pencil and about 3 feet in length) and lay them horizontally in shallow trenches. This will create a dense "fence" effect as the cuttings sprout. Remember that willows are invasive and grow massive roots. Keep new cuttings well away from driveways and sidewalks, foundations and septic systems.

By Ellen Brown

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Lilac Bush with Very Little Leaves

Q: I bought my lilac bush last fall. It was approximately 2-3 feet tall and loaded with leaves. This season, it now has blooms but very little leaves. Most of the branches appear dry and dead. What can i do?

Torrie

A: Torrie,

Without seeing your lilacs or analyzing your soil, it's difficult to know what the problem is. It sounds like it's either suffering from disease or isn't getting the proper nutrients. In any event, it won't continue to come back without good foliage.

My advice would be to start by a process of elimination. Is the plant getting everything it needs? It should be growing in full sun in soil that has adequate moisture and drainage. The soil should contain a good balance of nutrients (nothing in excess or severely lacking) and have a fairly neutral pH. Examine the bush for insects (aphids, scale, weevils, borers), and if necessary consult with a horticulturist for a proper diagnosis. For now, remove the flowers immediately after they bloom so the plant's energy isn't wasted on producing seeds and cut down the dead branches and see if you can get some new sprouts from the roots.

By Ellen Brown

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Saving Petunia Seeds

Q: Interested in knowing how to save my petunia seeds so that I can have the same colors each year. I found one that I like.

A: Petunia seeds are located in a seedpod at the base of the flower. If you were to remove the flower, you would see the pointed seedpod located inside of the sepal (which is sticky). The pod contains numerous seeds that look like tiny, dark balls. To collect them, let a few of the blossoms die back naturally (don't deadhead them). When they're dry, pinch off the blossoms just behind the base and put them in an airtight container or paper bag for storage. The seeds can be started indoors 10 to 12 weeks before your last expected frost.

If your petunia is a hybrid (as many petunias now are), the offspring will usually revert to the characteristics exhibited by its parents or grandparents, so it's unlikely you will preserve the exact colors you're looking for. That is, or course, if the seed you save is even viable (a fair percentage of hybrid seeds are sterile.

By Ellen Brown

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Rate of Willow Root Growth

Q: I would like to plant some Weeping Willows but would like to know how fast the roots grow and if I have to be concerned about proximity to a septic bed? Also, how far apart would be a good distance to plant and how many feet per year do they grow?

Thanks for any info.
Ed

A: Ed,

Weeping Willows (roots and all) can grow extremely fast if given the proper nutrients and conditions for growth. They can grow up to several feet per year and will develop a spread equal to their height in many instances. They need to be spaced at least 40 ft apart. Their roots are highly invasive and will most definitely affect nearby water and sewer lines. The roots can exceed the growth of the expanse of the tree's branches by 3 to 4 times, so even planted a good distance away the roots are likely to eventually head toward your septic bed and clog it, unless you have a giant lot.

Many arborists don't recommend the Willow for residential lots due to its large, lateral size, messy habit of constantly dropping small branches and its invasive roots. If you want a "weeping" yard tree, cherry and birch species might be better options. Willows are better planted in their proper habitat along streams and ponds.

By Ellen Brown

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New Requests

Caring for a Bougainvillea

I've had a Bougainvillea for 2 years as a houseplant. It's tall, has lots of leaves, but does not flower. It looks sickly, how can I better care for it?

Hardiness Zone: 6b

Thank you,
Christy from Colorado

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Planting the Top of a Pineapple

I am interested in taking a pineapple and cutting off the top to plant. Can anyone give me some good suggestions on how to do this?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Linda

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Epsom Salts for Roses

I've heard that Epsom salts are good for roses. How much of it should I use and how often? Do you have any other suggestions for care of roses?

Thank you.

Hardiness Zone: 10a

Mary from Redding, CA

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Locating Brown Boronia (B.megastigma) Seeds or Plants

Does anyone know where I can get Brown Boronia (B.megastigma) Seeds or plants? It is listed in the Western Sunset Garden Book. Thanks for any information.

Hardiness Zone: 10a

Great Granny Vi from Moorpark, CA

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"Sparkler" Cleomes From Seed in Louisiana

Please tell me how and when to grow "Sparkler" Cleomes from seed in Louisiana. These are the shorter and bushier Cleomes. Do I plant seeds outdoors in the fall or spring in zone 8b? What month? How much sun and water? Any pest problems?

Hardiness Zone: 8b

Pam from Baton Rouge, LA

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Growing Guides

Growing: Fennel
By Ellen Brown

Botanical Name:	Foeniculum vugare
Description:	A beautiful addition to any perennial herb garden, fennel has thick, 5 to 6 foot tall stems, feathery green or bronze foliage and impressive rays of tiny, umbel-shaped yellow flowers. Fennel is native to the Mediterranean, where it was highly sought by ancient Romans for its succulent leaves and licorice-like aroma. Due to their pungent flavor, the seeds were used by the poor to satisfy their hunger cravings during lean times, and also used to add flavor to otherwise unpalatable food.
Culinary Uses:	Leaves: salads and fruit salads; fruit drinks and teas (flowers); pork, veal and fish dishes; stocks, sauces and stuffing; mayonnaise, flavored butters and salad dressings; Placed dried stalks under grilled meat and fish; Seeds can be used as a spice in breads; Seedlings make a pungent salad.