February 16, 2006

The Happy Garden Newsletter - February 16, 2006


Volume 1, Number 4, February 16, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com

Hello,

It has been brought to our attention that some of the zone recommendations are incorrect in some of the growing guides. We will be working to correct this problem. On to this week's newsletter...

Thanks for reading,

Susan

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Today's newsletter contains:

Today's Tips and Articles:

New Requests:

Growing Guides:

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Today's Tips and Articles

Mushroom Fungus

Q: I have mushrooms growing in my flowerbed from a tree stump. Any ideas how to get rid of them?

A:

Your mushrooms won't hurt anything, but if you consider them unsightly, simply remove them with a spade or pick them by hand and either turn them under the soil or throw them in the compost pile. The mushroom is actually the reproductive structure of the larger fungus growing under ground. Try and remove them before they mature and have the chance to release their reproductive spores. This will help you reduce the population, but unless you can remove the stump from your flowerbed completely, you'll probably see more mushrooms in the future. They grow on decaying matter and in moist conditions; an old stump provides the perfect mushroom feast. On the bright side, the site of mushrooms growing in your garden is a sign that your soil is rich in organic matter.

By Ellen Brown

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Homemade Weed and Feed

Q: I was wondering if anyone had a homemade recipe for weed and feed for my lawn?

THANKS

A: The first thing that comes to mind for a homemade weed and feed is corn gluten. Commonly used as filler in dog and cat food, livestock and poultry feed, corn gluten is a by-product of corn milling. It can be applied like pre-emergent herbicide, but to be truly effective you need to familiarize yourself with when each type of weed sprouts so that it can be applied at the appropriate time.

In general, it tends to work best on common weeds like crabgrass. Corn gluten is also a good source of slow releasing nitrogen fertilizer (9-0-0) for your lawn. Using a fertilizer spreader, apply it at a rate of 20lbs per 1000 sq ft. of turf and scratch it into the topsoil. Follow with a light watering so that it sprouts seeds. Don't worry; these seeds will not develop roots.

The trick is in the timing. You need to time application in the spring prior to the weed seeds developing roots, but avoiding rainfall, so that the corn gluten has time to do its thing before being eaten by microbes. Once the weeds establish roots, the corn gluten loses its effectiveness as an herbicide. However, it will still act as a fertilizer and grow you a healthy crop of weeds. Don't plant seeds where you've applied corn gluten for at least 60 days following application. You can find corn gluten at feed mills or grain elevators.

By Ellen Brown

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Soil Deficiency

Soil Deficiency Q: I have some sort of a soil deficiency in my coastal garden that causes vegetable leaves to grow in a mottled pattern - light green and dark green. Eventually the light green portions die and turn brown. I have amended the soil with lime, seaweed, compost and Rotted manure and still the problem persists. Does anyone know how I can find out what is missing without paying for an expensive soil analysis?

Rene from Coastal Northern Canada

A: Hi Rene,

It's possible you have 1 of 2 problems: a deficiency in potassium (amended by seaweed), or an insect problem like mosaic, which is spread by insects like aphids and causes mottled leaves. You can rule out the insect infestation by examining your plants, but without a soil test there is no good way to determine whether or not you're dealing with a deficiency.

I would recommend biting the bullet and having your soil analyzed. It might seem like a bargain compared to the potential loss of plants, the cost of additional amendments and endless frustration of trying to blindly balance the nutrients in your soil. In your area, you can contact the Department of Agriculture and Fisheries Quality Evaluation (laboratory services section) to request a test kit.

The test will give your soil's pH, organic matter content and recommendations for what nutrients you need to balance it. The cost per sample is $12.50 and they recommend at taking at least 6 samples ($72.00). As an alternative, you can try a simple pH test available at most garden centers. These tests are not as accurate, but they will indicate which side of the pH scale your soil falls on, which will point you toward possible deficiencies.

www.gov.ns.ca/nsaf/qe/labserv/soilsamp.shtml

By Ellen Brown

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Growing Vegetables in the Mountains

Q: We live in the mountains west of Canon City, Co. For many years I have tried to grow a vegetable garden that would yield a crop of more than just a few items from the plants. We have tested the soil and put in several things. Watered every day or every other day as suggested but don't get a very good crop. Has anyone had this problem and been able to overcome it? Our growing season is short. We plant about the first or second week in June due to frost problems. Thanks for your help.

RoseMary

A:

RoseMary,

Your mountain conditions can certainly provide some unique challenges-soil, sun intensity, site considerations, length of growing season, etc. High altitude soil has a tendency to be alkaline due to the fact that rain has less of an opportunity to wash out salts. Most vegetables like soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. I would suggest getting a pH monitor to keep tabs on your soil's pH levels. You can compensate for low acid levels by adding some type of sulfate to the soil. Also, take advantage of the acidic nature of pine needles by using them for mulch and mixing them into the soil.

Try using short season seeds or starting seeds indoors. There are several reputable dealers on the Internet who can supply you with a catalog if you can't find seeds locally. There are also many good books and Internet resources specifically on high altitude growing.

By Ellen Brown

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Raising Good Roses
By Ellen Brown

All plants have their specific needs and roses can be especially tricky. There are many things to consider, including how and when you choose your plants, the make-up of your soil, your planting method, and the manner in which you care for them.

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Lunar Gardening Basics
By Ellen Brown

Planting a garden based on the cycles of the moon has been practiced as long as humans have been planting food. Just as the gravitational pull of the moon affects the tides, it also has an effect on moisture in the soil. If you prefer to garden organically, lunar gardening is the perfect companion because it works better in soil not treated with chemicals.

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Large Area Weed Killer

Q: I want to use a homemade, non-toxic weed killer to kill off weeds in two large garden areas in my back yard. Spraying with a small spray bottle is not reasonable. Could someone give me a recipe or a conversion that would work in an Ortho bottle that I can connect to my garden hose?

KJV from Wisconsin

A:

KJV,

This recipe is very strong and will essentially kill the soil, and everything growing in it, wherever you apply it (including any beneficial microbes). It is not selective, meaning it will kill your ornamentals along with the weeds. If used heavily, you may have trouble growing new plants in areas where it's used unless you bring in some new soil. Don't use it on or near concrete or apply it on windy days. For best results, apply on a hot day and wait at least 24 hours after applying.

Recipe:

1. Mix 1 pound of salt with one gallon of white vinegar.

2. Stir until the salt dissolves.

3. Mix in one teaspoon of liquid soap.

By Ellen Brown

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Contest ends February 28, 2006

New Requests

Plants That Are Safe for Cats

What type of outdoor plants are safe for cats?

Hardiness Zone: 10a

D.W. from Central California

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Help Save My Vine

I have inherited some household plants from my recently deceased mother in law. I don't have a green thumb, and find myself at a loss with one particular vine. It has green and yellow variegated heart shaped leaves and is in a hanging basket. My problem is that some of its leaves are turning yellow and dyeing off. What am I doing wrong?

I am watering while trying to be sure I don't over water. I give it a good soak, then I let it completely dry out before re-watering it (about a week to 10 days). She has had this plant for a very long time. I hate the thought of killing it once it came into my household and care. She didn't have it near a window so I haven't put it near one either, do any of you have any suggestions? Should I give it more light?

I have also noticed a browning on the tips of a few of the leaves as well, what causes this? Please help me save this plant!

Thank you,
Brenda from Athens, Ohio

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Transplanting a Surinam Cherry Tree

I have just found out that I have a Surinam Cherry Tree. It was there when we moved in 7 years ago. I never knew what it was so I would chop it to the gound every year. It is planted very close to the house on the north side with no sun. This year I let it grow and it actally has blooms on it. My question is, I would like to move it away from the house to a different location. We have 5 acres and most of it is shade. Should I plant it in the shade? And will it live if I transplant it? Also, how deep do the roots grow?

Hardiness Zone: 9b

Thanks for any help!
Sherry from Winter Haven, Florida

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Grafting A Citrus Tree

I would like to know how to graft onto a citrus tree. I have a satsuma tree that froze down to it's original root stock and ever since makes lovely blooms but the fruit is nasty. I just got a cutting from a naval orange tree. I am wondering if it would be possible to graft the cutting onto the Satsuma and hope for better fruit eventually. I am not cutting the Satsuma down and starting fresh. I love the blooms and shade.

Hardiness Zone: 8b

Linne from Marianna, FL

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Growing Guides

Growing: Angelica
By Ellen Brown

Harvesting and Storage: The whole herb, if used medicinally, should be collected in June by cutting shortly above the root. If the seeds are used, they should be gathered when ripe and dried. Roots should be dried rapidly and placed in air-tight receptacles and they will retain their medicinal virtues for many years.
Medicinal Uses: Angelica has stimulating properties when used in tea form and can be used to treat digestive upsets such as colic, flatulence and spasms. Angelica should not be used by diabetics or taken in large does while pregnant. Avoid sun exposure immediately after taking.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Tulips
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Plant bulbs from 4 to 8 inches deep and 4 to 8 inches apart in the fall. Bulbs should be free of mold or black spots and the outer tunic (brown layer) should be intact. If bulbs fail to bloom, they may have been handled or stored improperly before purchasing. For example, bulbs stored above 70ºF may not bloom well-or at all the first year, but may emerge the second year. If you want bulbs to bloom south of zone 8, you'll need to cold treat the bulbs (in the refrigerator) for 4-6 weeks before planting or buy bulbs pre-chilled. Bulbs can be moved or discarded when leaves die back and should thrive in dry soil conditions after flowering.
Interesting Facts: The absence of emerging growth may be an indicator that rodents have made a buffet out of your bulbs. Placing chicken wire over the tops of holes after planting or mixing blood meal in with the dirt used to refill the planting holes will discourage most rodents from snacking on your hard work.

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Growing: Agrimony
By Ellen Brown

Harvesting and Storage: Cut flowers just as they start to open. Cut leaves as needed and hang to dry.

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Growing: Zucchini
By Ellen Brown

Harvesting & Storage: Harvest zucchini when they reach the preferred size for use. Fruits usually taste best when they reach 4 to 6 inches in length. Frequent harvesting will encourage more fruit.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Blanket Flower

Growing Hints: Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost date or sow them directly into the ground in spring. Seeds need light to germinate so do not cover them, simply press them into the surface of the soil. Plants will stay vigorous if divided every 2 to 3 years in the spring or fall.
Interesting Facts: Blanket Flowers are unlikely to survive winter in heavy clay soil because they are highly susceptible to root rot. Soil that is too rich in nutrients or over fertilized soil will result in floppy, short-lived plants. They tend to thrive in areas where nothing else seems to grow.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Basil
By Ellen Brown

Harvesting and Storage: Harvest leaves fresh for use as needed. If used for culinary purposes, dried basil will not retain its flavor and should be placed between sheets of wax paper and frozen or chopped and frozen with water. To dry basil, hang it upside down in a warm, dark room and store leaves in an airtight container when dry.
Medicinal Uses: an expectorant and an anti-inflammatory to relieve sore mouths and gums, as part of treatment for malaria, bronchitis and gastric disorders.

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