Volume 1, Number 21, June 15, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com
Hello,
I hope everyone is having success in your gardens. We would love to see what they look like. If you get a chance, submit a picture at the link below.
Submit Pictures of Your Garden:
http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_photocontest.ldml
Also... We have new and improved profiles on ThriftyFun. In
addition to sharing a little about yourself, you can post a photo
and your website link (if you have one). To add your new
profile, login into your account using the login form on the top
of every page.
Happy Gardening,
Susan
Submit Your Gardening Tips:
http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_contest.ldml
Submit Photos of Your Garden:
http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_photocontest.ldml
Submit a Gardening Request:
http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_request.ldml
Today's newsletter contains:
Today's Tips and Articles:
New Requests:
Growing Guides:
Search ThriftyFun Using Google: Click Here
| Today's Sponsors
Free Photo Organizer From Google
"Picasa is software that helps you instantly find, edit and share
all the pictures on your PC. Every time you open Picasa, it
automatically locates all your pictures (even ones you forgot you
had) and sorts them into visual albums organized by date with
folder names you will recognize. You can drag and drop to arrange
your albums and make labels to create new groups. Picasa makes
sure your pictures are always organized."
More Information:
http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf61219677.tip.html |
Today's Tips and Articles
Moss Appeal
By Ellen BrownGrowing a thick, lush carpet of moss gives a shade garden a mystical, almost surreal feeling. The dark, velvety aesthetic appeal of moss is evident just by looking at it, but its resiliency and the fact that it requires almost no maintenance once it's established is what really makes it an attractive addition to the garden. Here is what you need to know to get moss growing in your garden.
View Full Article: Click Here
|
| Caterpillar Nest In a Tree
Q: I have a weeping cherry tree, however this year it did not flower as much as last year. I found a large white cotton nest in the tree. I think it's caterpillars. How do I get rid of them?
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Nancy from Margate, NJ
A: Nancy,
The can easily dislodge the caterpillar tent from the tree. Blast it off with a garden hose or use a broom to knock it down. Once the nest falls to the ground how you dispose of it is up to you. The caterpillars will have a hard time returning to the tree and are more likely to succumb to the voracious appetites of nearby birds then make it back to safety. The best time to destroy the tent is right around dawn or dusk. These are the times the caterpillars return to the tents after they finish feeding. If you prefer not to knock it down, you can also use an organic control called Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). This can be expensive and difficult to apply and is probably only economical for multiple nests in multiple trees.
To further protect your tree from migrating caterpillars, construct a barrier band around the trunk made of duct tape, tin foil or tar paper and coat it generously with a greasy substance like Vaseline. Don't apply the grease directly to the tree bark. The band should be in the shade or you may risk killing the bark and cambium that is underneath. Check the barrier daily and add more grease if necessary. Remove it as soon as the caterpillar cycle appears over (you see individual cocoons being formed in other people's trees).
Good Luck!
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| Solution for a Very Invasive Weed
Q: I have a problem. I have unfortunately acquired a terribly invasive weed. I have no idea what it is. It looks like a fern, has black pods along it's length, grows in clumps, prefers areas heavily mulched but basically took over large areas of my yard in late winter/early spring. For various reasons I was unable to get out and attack it when it was at its peak. It has now been sprayed and most of it is dead, but not before I'm pretty sure it went to seed, to spend time preparing for the next attack.
I would like to find a practically invasive ground cover to plant in the worst area that might inhibit, or at least challenge, this weed the next time it rears its ugly leaves. It would be great if it was evergreen and shade-loving, but at this point I'll take any suggestions. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I might use? Thanks so much!
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Tripleb from Greenville, AL
A: Tripleb,
Congratulations on getting rid of your very invasive weed. There are several options for ground covers that many people would consider "invasive." Examples include: English ivy, wintercreeper, crownvetch, ajuga, periwinkle, Liriope spicata and certain types of honeysuckle. Of these examples, wintercreeper grows wonderfully in the shade and is highly competitive with under-story plants. Lily-turf is an evergreen that quickly spreads to form a dense mat and can be used to cover a large area. It produces spikes of purple or white flowers, which eventually transform into clusters of black berries. It also provides and interesting texture and grows equally well in sun or shade. It tolerates a wide variety of soil conditions, although it prefers moist, nutrient-rich soil. All of these examples should perform well in your zone.
Good Luck!
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| Growing Bamboo Plants - Twisting Water Plant
Q: There are plants which can grow in water only and are sold at Oriental booths in the malls. They look like a tall stick but they begin to twist near the top. What is this plant and how do you get it to twist?
Hardiness Zone: 9b
Sindi from Phoenix, AZ
A: Sindi,
The plant you're referring to is bamboo. It normally grows in straight sticks, but you can make it curl by manipulating the light conditions as it grows. As the plant grows, it is shielded on three sides. One easy way to do this is to put the bamboo sticks in a vase of water and place the whole thing in a covered box. Cut a small hole (a few inches in diameter) in one side of the top of the box. This allows only one side of the vase inside access to bright light. As the plants grow naturally toward the light, you can manually rotate the vase every time the stalk grows a few inches (usually once every week or so). Each time you rotate the vase a new side is exposed to the light and the stick will start growing in that direction. It can take as long at 6 months to make 1 full curl in the bamboo.
Try it!
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
Five of My Favorite Perennial Vines
By Ellen BrownVines add interest to the garden by providing a variety of shapes, colors, textures, and in some cases, fragrance to your landscape. They can climb walls, cover arbors, hide ugly fences, creep along rock gardens, create a sense of privacy and shade us from the sun. The best part about perennial vines is that they do it year after year.
View Full Article: Click Here
|
| Weeping Cherry Has Small Leaves
Q: We relocated a 10-12 ft weeping cherry tree about a month or so ago. It did have buds when it was moved, and they did bloom, but they weren't covering every branch. Now, it has leaves, but they are TINY and also not around every branch. I did edge and mulch around the tree recently, thinking it would help to keep moisture in. The tree recieves full sun, and the soil is well drained. Is my tree dying?
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Rebecca Knepp from Limerick, PA
A:
Rebecca,
It sounds to me like your tree is suffering from a good case of transplant shock, especially if you moved it while the buds were developing. All you can really do now is take a wait-and-see approach, keep it on a regular schedule of watering (about 1 1/2 to 2 inches once a week at a slow trickle), and cross your finger it recovers. Don't fertilize it. At this point fertilizing can cause it more harm than good. Hopefully you didn't fertilize it when you transplanted it. I made this mistake once with a sugar maple I planted. I mixed in too much compost and manure when back-filling the hole I planted it in and I ended up burning a lot of the roots. I didn't see how extensively the roots had been damaged until the following spring when half of the tree failed to leaf out and the other half sprouted tiny little leaves. It was a $250.00 tree, and fortunately for me, it recovered. It's early in the summer and your tree has plenty of time to recover and establish itself. It will probably send out new leaves before too long. The true test, I'm afraid, won't come until next spring.
Good luck!
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| Ant Hill in a Flower Bed
Q: We have an ant hill in the center of a perennial flower bed. I tried boiling water (friend's recommendation) but it only resulted in killing a foot of Phlox, the ants still thriving! I would like to dig it out and plant tall perennials in center while keeping the mature phlox. Any suggestions?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Leah Meyer from Ottawa, Ontario
A: Leah,
Your objective is to kill the queen and change the ant's environment into one that is less hospitable. Since you only have one ant hill, it shouldn't be too difficult to either get rid of the queen, or convince the colony to relocate. Boiling water can be effective in some cases, but ants can tunnel deep, so if the water didn't come into direct contact with the queen the ants you killed will simply be replaced with new ones. To make a bait fit for a queen, mix 1 cup of sugar, 4 teaspoons of boric acid and 24 ounces of water in a glass jar. Shake the mixture thoroughly until all the crystals dissolve. Pour 1 cup of this mixture into a smaller jar filled half way up with cotton balls. Screw the lid back on, seal around the band with weatherproof tape and punch a few small holes in the center of the lid. Draw a skull and cross bones on the jar and keep pets a children away from the jars!
Put one of these near the entrance of the mound. The ants will enter the jar, eat the sugar and return to the nest and pass it on to the rest of the colony-including the queen. A less toxic recipe includes mixing 2 parts molasses, with 1 part sugar and 1 part dry yeast. Use this to bait the jars in the same way.
If you want to try a different kind of physical treatment, spread diatomaceous earth around the mound. To ants, these tiny ground up bones are sharp and deadly to cross. It may eventually convince them to pack up and move to a new location, and it will work its way into your soil and help with aeration at the same time. You can also try mixing up a slurry of orange juice and orange peels. Pour this directly into the ant hill. A chemical in citrus fruit is supposedly toxic to ants.
Good luck!
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| Bugs on Burning Bush
Q: I have a bug problem and no idea what they are. I have a Burning Bush, now 3 years old. I found what looks like black aphid looking bugs. They are very sticky and the black ants are all over where they are. The growth that they are on looks wilted. I have cut off all the bad parts but they come back. I am looking for a natural way to rid of them because the bush is near our garlic. Does anyone know what these are, the cause of them, how to rid of them?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thank you,
Countrygal from New Castle, PA
A: Countrygal,
It sounds like you have a classic case of aphids. The sticky substance you're referring to is called honeydew and is secreted by the feeding aphids. Ants just love to feed on honeydew, hence the sudden explosion of ants around your bushes. Some species of ants will actually "farm" aphids-caring for them and protecting them so that the ants have access to a constant supply of honeydew.
Give the leaves a good forceful spray (within reason) with the garden hose. This will knock off most of the aphids. To get rid of the remaining pests, mix 1 finely chopped onion, 1 large clove of finely chopped garlic, and 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap with 2 cups of water. Put this all in a blender on high and then strain out the solids using cheesecloth or the toe of an old pantyhose. Pour this into a hand-held sprayer and spray this all over your burning bush. Store any leftovers in the refrigerator for several weeks and keep using it at the first sign of trouble.
Good luck!
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| Getting Rid of Canada Thistle
Q: Can anyone give me an idea on how to get rid of Canada thistle? It has invaded every bed of my garden, and this year, I can't plant a veggie garden, I will have to cover the whole garden with black plastic to kill everything in there.
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Samantha from Pittsburgh, PA
A: Samantha,
As you already know, Canada thistle is a really tough weed to eradicate. Unfortunately it competes well in deep, well-aerated soils-the same soils most flowers and vegetables prefer. The biggest challenge is the roots. They can colonize areas 3 to 6 feet in diameter. One of the best methods to get rid of Canada thistle is repeated pulling and mowing just when the flower buds are about to open. Pulling and mowing will eventually work to weaken the roots. When done over the course of three years, this method is said to kill up to 90% of the weeds. I actually like your black plastic idea. Dig up the soil well first, cover it with a good layer of compost and throw the plastic on things for the rest of this season. You'll substantially raise the fertility of your soil with the compost, which Canada thistle doesn't like. Next year you'll probably be home free. Maybe you can experiment with container gardening and try growing your veggies in containers for this one season. Burning in the late spring (May/June) can also work well, but must should also be done over the course of several years to be effective. Biological controls and herbicides are risky if your beds are earmarked for edibles.
Good Luck!
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| My Frugal Life - Lessons Learned at the Farmer's Market
This was posted as feedback to a post about Farmer's Market but we thought it was a great My Frugal Life entry.
When my children were young (around 8-10 years old) I would give them each a few dollars and let them go shopping for their own goodies at the Farmers market.
We usually set a few ground rules like they had to get at least enough of one item to share with every one else, and they had to ask questions when they made their purchases to find out something new about whatever they were buying, like suggestions for ways to prepare it or the best way to tell if it is ripe, how long will it keep in the fridge etc.
They enjoyed learning about the foods they eat, it made them feel important to share the things they had learned with their siblings, they seemed to be more willing to try new things if they got to make the decision about what it would be by themself. They usually got at least a few items that they could stash in one of the crisper drawers in a bag with their name on it for their own personal snacking. But also they got to where they got a big kick out of planning surprise dishes to try out on their Dad and Me!
They learned quickly that if they pooled the money they could sometimes get better deals and before too long decided that it was more fun to get a whole bushel of something and put things up in the freezer to keep longer. They enjoyed reminiscing in January about the strawberries we were eating, that baby sis had bargained for with her winsom ways from a usually gruff farmer that she made friends with!
My "babies" are 25, 26, 28 & 30 now but they still talk about how they learned the best way to pick out corn on the cob or which melon is going to be the sweetest. We often had a garden in the yard when they were growing up but never had enough room to grow everything we wanted to, so they learned just how useful the Farmers Markets always are.
Each of their significant others has mentioned to me at one time or other that they are so impressed with my kids knowledge of cooking, gardening, bargain shopping or the like. I always have to say they didn't learn it from me, I just tried to teach them how to go about finding the answers for their questions, even when sometimes they didn't know they had a question! I'm a strong believer in the notion that every experience in life is a learning opportunity and I always try to get the most out of every opportunity that I possibly can. If my kids learned that then I feel they learned a lot!
By Jomomma1955
Do you have a frugal story to share with the ThriftyFun community? Submit your essay here: http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_myfrugallife.ldml
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| Leaves in Our Vegetable Garden are Turning Yellow
Q: Leaves in vegetable garden are turning yellow. Will colder mornings turn the leaves yellow, or is this a soil problem? Plants include tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and pumpkins.
Hardiness Zone: 7a
Keever from Salt Lake city, Utah
A: Keever,
Yellow leaves in the vegetable garden can indicate any number of problems. This early in the season, the most common reason are probably due to over-watering, a lack of nitrogen (fertilizer) or in the case of some seedlings, it could even be a delayed reaction to transplant shock. If you think there is a chance you over-watered, simply back off and let the plants catch up. If you added some compost or other organic nutrients to your soil before planting, fertilizer isn't likely to be your problem. If you didn't you may want to consider side-dressing your plants with some good quality compost. (Yellow leaves that look burnt on the tips or have new growth that is blackened, are symptoms of plants receiving too much fertilizer.) In regards to your cold mornings, when weather turns suddenly cooler, growth slows down which inhibits your plant's ability to take up phosphorus. This can stunt the plant's growth for a time and make them temporarily unproductive-regardless of how fertile your soil is. Low phosphorus levels are indicated by leaves and stems turning a pale purple, almost bronze color.
Hope this information helps!
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| Look Locally for What Grows Well
One simple way for a beginning gardener to see what works in the local micro-climate is to look around and see what plants are flourishing. In my area of S. California, for example, I see lots of geraniums, jade plants and birds of paradise which continue even in the face of outright neglect.
By Pam from L.A., CA
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| Planting Food in Creosote Logs
Q: My mom and I are planting a garden. She has some old creosote logs about 40 years old. Is it ok to plant strawberries in the holes of the logs? I don't want anyone to get sick on strawberry short cake.
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Bryan from Longview WA
A: Bryan,
I would not recommend using creosote logs for landscaping or gardening regardless of how old they are. It's hard to say whether or not your strawberry plants (or the guests eating your shortcake) would be visibly affected, but the chemicals leeching into the ground from the coal tar and creosote would certainly be causing unseen environmental damage. Around 300 known toxic chemicals have been identified in coal tar and creosote. Some of these chemicals breakdown and move through the soil (and into the ground water) rather quickly, while others remain intact (and toxic) in the soil and in landscaping timbers for years.
According to the Center for Disease Control, some of the serious negative health effects brought on by long-term exposure to creosote include chemical burns to the eyes, lungs and skin, kidney and liver problems, skin cancer, loss of consciousness and in severe cases, even death. How it affects a person's health depends on the level of exposure and the susceptibility of the individual.
Because of their size, children are more susceptible to the negative effects. Given the fact that most countries in Europe have banned the selling of products containing coal tar and creosote to consumers and that a large number of EPA declared Superfund sites (areas slated for cleanup due to hazardous waste) the U.S. contain creosote residue, it seems only logical to avoid contact to creosote by finding alternatives to using creosote treated products for landscaping and gardening.
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
| Turning My Hydrangea Blue
Q: How can I turn my Hydrangea blue? I am hoping it is something that I would have on hand.
Hardiness Zone: 4b
Thanks,
Helenw from Ontario Canada
A: Hi Helen,
If you're growing Hydrangea Marcrophylla (French Hydrangea) you can turn it from pink to blue by lowering the pH level of your soil. The color is determined by the amount of aluminum available to the plant. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons of aluminum sulfate to a gallon of water. Apply it 2 times, 2 weeks apart, for 4 to 6 months prior to blooming. You can also add coffee grounds, eggshells or ground-up citrus peel to the soil. You're shooting for a pH of 5-6.
On a similar note, blue hydrangeas can be changed to pink by adding 3-8 cups (depending on the size of the plant) of dolomic lime around the base of the hydrangea. Do this 2 or 3 times between the blooming seasons. As an alternative, you can also try a bit of superphosphate around the base of the plant. Shoot for a pH of 6.8-7.2.
The color change doesn't happen overnight so be patient. It can take as long as a year or two to see the results. The white varieties of hydrangeas (such as PeeGee, Silver Leaf, Hills of Snow, etc.) cannot be changed. They remain while regardless of tampering with the pH of the soil.
Good Luck!
Ellen
Post Feedback: Click Here
|
New Requests
| Weed Killer That Is Safe for Horses
I need to kill many types of weeds growing in my horse pasture. I want to find something that is effective and safe for the horses. We are at an of altitude of 8500'.
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Molly from Boulder, Colorado
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Buying Surprise Lilies
Does anybody know where I can buy Surprise Lilies? My mother loves them and hers for some reason have stopped blooming.
Hardiness Zone: 7b
Thanks,
Zanyzoey from Trenton, Tennessee
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Chipmunks Attacking My Plants
Does anyone know how to keep chipmunks and other small rodents out of patio pots and planters? I keep coming out to the patio to find my new plants and flowers strewn all over the deck and holes in the pots where some critter has been partying in my pots. I also have a ground hog who has taken up residence under my deck, and now has two babies. They're digging holes everywhere and eating my flowers. Does anyone have a noncommercial solution to this problem? Help!
Lori from Middleville, MI
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Bulbs in Every Season
I love the look and idea of bulbs but the bulbs I have planted only last a few weeks. I see other gardens as I am driving through town that have bulb plants spring, summer and fall. I simply love it.
What can I do to get these results? Are these specific bulbs I can purchase and plant?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thank you,
Mindy from Redmond, Oregon
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Tin Can Bird Feeder
I am looking for directions for making a bird feeder from tin cans.
Nancyeb1 from Rabun Gap, GA
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Everbearing Strawberries Not Producing Fruit
I have a question about everbearing strawberries. I have tried everything, but they do not produce strawberries all year long. Once they start too throw there chutes they quit producing. I get 1 batch from them and that is it. I have put pine needles around them and water them just about every day. Some of them are in sand with dirt mixed in, but I do have some in just dirt and they do the same. Do I let the chutes go or cut them off. What else can I do?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thank You,
Joyce wis from Janesville, WI
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Squirrels Eating Tomatoes
I planted a garden with tomatoes and the last two nights we have seen little squirrels take off with some of the green tomatoes. I never knew they ate tomatoes let alone green ones. We have a lot of squirrel feeders that they eat from in our yard, so we know that they are not going hungry. Any advice?
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Thank you!
Jodi from Gary, Texas
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Help My Rhubarb Plant
I am having trouble with my rhubarb this year. It started out great and then I noticed I was not able to "pop" out the stalks; instead they would break off 2 or 3 inches from the bulb. Now the stalks are very long and thin with huge leaves and they are breaking off and rotting. I did notice quite a few ants by the bulbs which seems unusual to me as we have had so much rain.
Hardiness Zone: 6b
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
mi3kids from Slate Hill, NY
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Buying Mulch Bins
I heard that the county extension or county agriculture sells mulch bins to the public. Does anyone know about this are can they tell me who it is that does and how do I get ahold of them? I would appreciate any help.
Thanks
Angelheart from Clyde, Texas
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Flies on My Plants Outside
I am wondering if it is normal to have flies in my outside plants? These are not little fruit type flies they are normal big black ones. Whenever I water my flower beds flies come out. I do not remember having this problem in past years. Is there something I can do or is this normal?
Brandi from Salt Lake City, UT
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Bug Killer Recipe
My husband would like a recipe for making his own bug killer to use on tomatoes, potatoes and hostas. He would like a spray on pesticide if there is one available. Thank you so much.
Barb Zone: 4a
barbo37 from Fairview, MI
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Preventing Basil From Flowering
My basil looks as though it is going to flower. Can this process be halted by cutting off the brackets or is this useless?
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Thanks,
Holly from Richardson, TX
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Transplanting Calla Lilies
Calla Lilies in my yard are growing 4 feet tall but as soon as they bloom the flowers turn brown. I'd also like to dig them up and move to them another location in my yard. When should I dig them up? How can I prevent them from browning? And how do I get them to grow tall and straight?
Hardiness Zone: 10a
Thank you in advance!
Windella From Pasadena, CA
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Bugs Feeding on My Hibiscus
I have an old timey hibiscus that comes back every year and something is eating the leaves. What can I put on it to stop the bugs from eating holes in the leaves?
Hardiness Zone: 7b
Faith from Starkville, MS
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Keeping Roses Safe From Diseases
What do I spray on my roses to keep them safe from diseases?
Hardiness Zone: 7b
Faith from Starkville, MS
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| What are these plants? (Yarrow)
I have things growing in my garden and I am not sure of what they may be. Here's a picture.
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Loretta from Hagersville, Ontario
Post Feedback: Click Here |
| Planting a Ylang Ylang Tree
I just got a Ylang Ylang tree. It was purchased by a friend who lives in South FL. We live near the beach in Central FL and I am wondering if it is salt-tolerant It is a zone 10 tree. I would have liked to plant it in Citrus County where we have land, but I am concerned it might not survive the cold winters there. It's about 5-10 Degrees colder there in winter. Does anyone know anything about this fragrant tree? I know the flowers are used to make perfumes and such.
Hardiness Zone: 10a
Thanks all,
A.Papaya from Central Florida
Post Feedback: Click Here |
Looking for a frugal solution to an everyday problem? Submit
your request here: Click Here
Growing Guides
Growing: Miniature Iris (Dwarf Iris)
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Plant Dwarf Iris in the spring or summer from potted plants or bare-root divisions. Bulbs should be spaced 3 inches deep and 6 inches apart in a sunny location with well-drained soil. Water regularly and do not cut back the foliage until it dies back naturally. Give them time to store enough nutrients for next year's season. Divide plants in the spring every 3 to 4 years to keep them looking their best. |
| Interesting Facts: | Two of the most common species of the Dwarf Iris are Iris reticulata and Iris dandordiae. The first originates from the Caucasus Mountains in the Middle East and is the variety most commonly sold commercially. It comes in beautiful shades of blue and purple. Iris dandordiae exhibits all of the same characteristics as Iris reticulata, but is a bright canary-yellow color. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Rain Lily (Fairy Lily)
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | In warmer zones, plant bulbs in the fall and leave them in the garden over winter. Cooler zones (5 and north) should plant bulbs in the spring and dig them up again in the fall for winter storage in vermiculite or dry peat moss. They can be kept in containers outdoors, but need to be moved indoors for the winter in cooler zones. Rain lily bulbs should be planted 1 to 2 inches deep and spaced 3 to 4 inches apart. They prefer sites with evenly moist, well-drained soil and full sun. Give plants a boost throughout the growing season with a slow release fertilizer or work some nutrient-rich compost into the soil around their clumps. As leaves die back, reduce feeding and watering for winter. |
| Interesting Facts: | Rain lilies earn their namesake from their habit of blooming several times a season, usually 3 or 4 days after it rains. They are a genus of a bulbous species belonging to the amaryllis family. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Snowflake (Spring Snowflake/Summer Snowflake)
By Ellen BrownBotanical Name: Leucojum
Growing Hints: Plant bulbs in the fall 3 to 4 inches deep at intervals of 8 to 10 inches. Snowflakes require plenty of moisture throughout the year (even during the dormant period) and prefer sites with full exposure to the sun, with the exception of the warmest zones, where they benefit from the protection of light shade. Divide clumps after flowering or collect and save seeds.
Interesting Facts: The Snowflake Flower is native to southern Europe, from the Pyrenées to Romania and western Russia. It is the only species currently classified in the genus Leucojum, which in Greek means, "white violet." All parts of a Snowflake Flower are poisonous if ingested.
More Growing Information: Click Here |
Growing: Snowdrop
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Plant bulbs 3 to 4 inches deep in the early fall. Large groups of 25 or more bulbs will give the best show. Snowdrops take a fairly long time to become fully established in the garden, but once they are, you can leave them alone for years or propagate them by division each season after foliage begins to fade. |
| Interesting Facts: | The Snowdrop's native habitat is the eastern Mediterranean, southeastern Europe and Russia. Because they grow in late fall or early spring (depending on zone) they are often thought of as opportunists. By blooming early, they ensure themselves more moisture and less competition from other flowers for pollinators. They are also resistant to deer, rabbits, squirrels and other rodents. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Peruvian Daffodil (Spider Flower, Basket Lily)
By Ellen Brown
| Growing Hints: | Plant bulbs outdoors in the spring or fall, 3 to 5 inches deep and spaced 12 to 15 inches apart. Gardeners in northern zones should plant bulbs outdoors in the spring when temperatures stay above 60ºF. Zones with shorter season may want to consider starting plants indoors. When the threat of fall frost is near, dig up bulbs and prepare them for winter storage. Lay bulbs out in a cool, dry location until leaves wither. Cut off withered leaves and store bulbs tip-side-down in dry peat moss or vermiculite at temperatures between 65º and 70ºF. Propagate in fall from the small bulbs that develop at the base of large ones. Zones 8-10 may need to divide plants every 4 to 5 years to keep them looking good. |
| Interesting Facts: | These plants also grow well in containers outdoors when soil is kept moist and they are fed a slow-release fertilizer from spring until fall. Move plants to a well-lit room for the winter and reduce watering. |
More Growing Information: Click Here |
|
