Volume 1, Number 23, June 29, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com
Hello,
We have lots of useful advice and two great articles by Ellen Brown this week, one about making a rain barrel and another about keeping your pond water clear.
If you have some seeds to swap, be sure to check out ThriftyFun's Seed Swap:
http://www.thriftyfun.com/board_seeds.html
Thanks for reading,
Susan
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Today's Photos
| Planting Peonies
When planting a peony, try planting it within the bounds of a permanent structure like a metal windmill to keep the plant standing upright. Additionally, continue to push the stems back inside the braces of the structure as it grows.
By Elizabeth Bouchard from Massena, NY
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Today's Tips and Articles
| What Can I Plant on Top of a Septic Tank?
Q: I am wondering what can be planted on top of a septic tank besides grass? I know trees are out!
Hardiness Zone: 9a
SusannL from Florida
A: SusannL,
You have several options for landscaping your septic system. You can landscape with lawn, ornamental grasses, ground covers and ornamental plants. Drought tolerant plants are best, and edible crops that require frequent irrigation are not recommended because the need for constant watering (and digging) can overload your system. The most important thing to remember is to choose low maintenance, low growing plants with shallow, non-invasive roots. The simpler you keep things the better. You obviously want something that looks good, yet also allows you to monitor and service the area as needed. One suggestion would be to turn this area into a focal point by pot-scaping with a few colorful container plants and maybe adding a sundial or bird feeder to clearly mark your system's port.
You don't ask about ideas for plants to use over the drainfield, but planting the same types of low maintenance, shallow-root plants in this area can actually keep your system running optimally. Plants can actually help provide the drainfield area with oxygen exchange and contribute to evaporation. This will help keep your septic system running optimally. Don't plant edibles here either, as they will be directly exposed to effluent leeching into the ground from your drainage pipes. Do not use landscape fabric, plastic, bark or mulch around your septic system and do your best to avoid compacting the soil.
Here is small list of plants often recommended for landscaping around septic systems. Contact your county extension agency for more ideas specific to your zone.
Grasses: fescue, ornamental grasses, lawn.
Ground covers: bugleweed, carpet heathers, cotoneaster, ground ivy, periwinkle(sun); bunchberry, ferns, mosses, sweet woodruff, wild ginger, wintergreen (shade).
Ornamentals: petunias, marigold, zinnia, impatiens, geranium.
Ellen
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| My Hibiscus is Struggling
Q: I successfully took cuttings from a beautiful double yellow Hibiscus. They grew to about 18 inches and had lots of leaves then they started to lose their leaves and one died. The other is still alive and has shot up to over 2 feet in height but only has little shoots coming off the main stem and a couple of leaves right at the top. Any advice would be very welcome.
Hardiness Zone: 10a
Thanks,
Kay from Florida
A: Kay,
There are several reasons a hibiscus will start to drop leaves: over fertilizing, a build up of fertilizing salts, too much moisture, too little moisture, too long of a transit time between transplanting and insect attacks. You are the only one who knows plant's history, so you're going to have to try and use the process of elimination. There are some insects that will defoliate entire plants, so check closely for insect damage first-both around the leaves and near the base of the plant. If there are no visible signs of insects, consider root damage. When a plant loses its leaves from the bottom upward and very few new leaves are sprouting to take their place, it's often a sign the plant has sustained some type of damage to its roots. Sometimes it's easy to accidentally dig into hibiscus crowns when transplanting or weeding around nearby plants. If this is the case, there isn't much you can do but take a wait-and-see approach to see if the plant survives. If your remaining plant has new shoots coming off of the main stem, it says to me that it's trying to recover. Did you move them outside from indoors? If you took the cuttings late last summer and rooted them successfully indoors over winter, they may have succumbed to transplant shock.
Hope this gives you some ideas!
Ellen
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| Late Maturing Apple Tree
Q: I am trying to find an old apple tree variety that used to grow outside of our house. I know this variety is at least 100 years old and would love to replace the dead tree with a new one of the same variety. It is a late maturing apple, yellowish green in color, sweet and crisp. I can remember fruit still hanging on this tree till Christma. My mom used to use this apple for everything. Anyone have any idea what the name of this variety of apple tree is?
Hardiness Zone: 6b
Thanks for your help,
Veachel from North East Ohio
A: Veachel,
Your tree could be one of several varieties. I would recommend visiting with someone from a local orchard, contacting a local arborist or contacting the nearest county extension agency for more information. They would have the most knowledge in regards to what type of tree you might have. They can tell you the most common varieties grown in your area 100 years ago and advise you if any of those varieties are still available locally. Melrose is one of the most popular apples cultivated in Ohio so you might want to start there. From your description, Fuji, Goldrush and Mutsu varieties also sound like possible contenders. Below are two links for visual resources to antique/heritage apple varieties. Both links contain images and descriptions. Start by narrowing down the "late" producing varieties and then further narrowing your search by apple color.
Finally, here is a link to the Ohio State University Extension Agency and a list of Ohio's favorite apples, descriptions and uses.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
Ellen
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| Flowers That Will Bloom in October
Q: My son is getting married in October. While we are thrilled about the upcoming events, I may have the rehearsal dinner in our backyard. I sure would appreciate any suggestions for plants that would be blooming that month so that it would look as pretty as possible. By the way - the mums I got last year in Oct as potted plants I planted and they are about to bloom - is this right? Will they bloom again in October? Thanks to everyone for the input!
Hardiness Zone: 8a
BBB from Greenville, AL
A: BBB,
Congratulations! Fall is a beautiful time for a wedding. First off, if you keep deadheading your mums, you will be able to extend their blooms for several weeks, but it's unlikely you'll get a second round of flowers from them in the fall. The mums available last October were probably grown under controlled conditions so that they would peak just in time for the fall season. Once in the ground, they can sometimes bloom earlier, especially in warmer parts of the country. Here are some flowers that should be in bloom in your zone in the Fall: Swamp Flowers (yellow daisy-like blooms with brown eyes), Mexican Bush Sage (purple and white spikes with a velvety texture), Golden Rod, Asters, Japanese Anemone, Sedum, Dahlia and certain roses. Area Master Gardeners or your county extension agency should be able to give you additional ideas. If not, call your local florist and tell them you are trying to plan a fall wedding and want to know what types of local flowers are in season then. Also, don't over look harvest ornamentals like gourds, natural baskets and hollowed-out pumpkins to fill with flowers like zinnias or mums for extra color.
Ellen
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| How long does it take for a Weeping Cherry to bloom?
Q: I am curious to know how many seasons it will take for my Weeping Cherry to begin blooming. It was purchased as a seedling 6-7 months ago and it's being grown into a bonsai.
Steven Sullivan
Hardiness Zone: 8b
D_Mcpasterfield from Austin, Texas
A: D_Mcpasterfield,
I'm certainly no Bonsai master (although I'm a big admirer of the art), but in most cases, weeping cherry trees bloom by the age of 4 to 5 years old. That is, of course, assuming that their growing requirements have been met satisfactorily for the years leading up to their first bloom. Any number of environmental factors may work to slow down (or even speed up) this process. But even more so than environmental factors, genetics play a large role in determining when flowering trees first flower. Some trees, like some people, are "late bloomers." Growing a weeping cherry tree as a bonsai specimen is really no different than growing one in your backyard in terms of development. The only difference is that bonsai artists go to great lengths to control the size and shape of their trees. So the age at which your weeping cherry will bloom for the first time is dependant entirely on genetics and how well you meet its requirements for growth, independent of the bonsai conditions under which the tree is grown.
Ellen
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| Ornamental Pepper Plant Seeds
Q: I am looking for seeds for ornamental pepper plants. I can't find anywhere.
Hardiness Zone: 8a
agc1953 from Prattville, AL
A: agc1953,
There are so many options for ornamental peppers now that I'm not sure if you're referring to a specific genus or not. Many gardeners lump all small, brightly colored peppers into the ornamental group-some edible some not. No matter the species, the plants and seeds can be hard to come by, but it's worth the effort to seek them out. Once established, peppers left outdoors are quite heat tolerant, need very little maintenance and readily seed themselves. Some cultivars also make wonderful indoor-outdoor container plants (or hanging baskets) that can be easily relocated according to the season. Ornamental peppers provide great color all through the growing season, can withstand high heat and require little care. I'm not sure exactly what you're searching for, but here are some links to ornamental pepper seeds on the web:
Hope this helps!
Ellen
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| Decontaminating Soil Before Growing Vegetables
Q: Is there any way to decontaminate existing flower beds of dog and cat feces so that I could plant vegetables such as beans, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash?
Hardiness Zone: 10a
Bdasch from Port Aransas, Texas
A: Bdasch,
Dilution is the soil-lution. First, remove any visible feces from the existing beds. Then add in as much new organic-rich soil as possible. Make sure you till it in deeply. If you do this now, it's probably a good idea to let the new soil settle in and over-winter in the beds before planting your vegetables next year. During this period of "rest", cover the beds with black plastic. The heat generated by the plastic will help pasteurize the soil and further kill off any contaminants. It will also provide you with weed-free beds to start your vegetables with next year. Studies have also shown that certain plants like Sunflowers are capable of taking up contaminants from the soil as they grow. An alternative to the plastic might be to plant a crop of sunflowers for the remainder of this year and then cover the beds with plastic over winter. In any case, don't plant any edibles until you get your soil tested. Contact your county extension agency for more information on how to have your soil tested. Make sure to tell them about your specific situation and concerns. If possible, avoid future contamination by designating specific areas outdoors for your dogs and cats to go to the bathroom (a fenced area for dogs and a sandbox for cats).
A second option is to build raised beds for your vegetables or grow them in containers.
Good luck!
Ellen
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| Pear Tree Producing Cracked, Hard Pears
Q: I have a pear tree that is several years old, we always have lots of pears but they crack and are very hard. We never have any to harvest. Can anyone help?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Alice from Prairie du Chien, Wisc
A: Alice,
Are your pears splitting and rotting right on the tree? Do the fruits or leaves have velvety olive-brown spots on them? If so, your tree could be suffering from a disease called pear scab. With scab, as the pears mature the spots turn into "corky" lesions and the fruit usually cracks (or is malformed) and drops off the tree prematurely. Scab is a fungus that over-winters in leaves and twigs that have fallen from the tree. In the spring, the spores are carried by the wind to the newly developing fruit causing an infection. Once this infection occurs, a new "summer" spore is formed, which can last throughout the season and keep the annual cycle going. To control scab, you'll need to clean up leaf debris each spring and fall, and get on a schedule for spraying an organic fungicide. Before doing anything, I would get an expert out for an onsite opinion to confirm your tree's problem.
Good Luck!
Ellen
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Clearing Murky Pond Water
By Ellen BrownThere is a growing trend in gardening of adding water features to the yard and garden. Installing a pond to your landscape gives your garden a sense of peace and serenity and makes a delightful addition for backyard wildlife. Neglecting to maintain it, however, can quickly turn your tranquil pond into a smelly, murky headache. Here are some ways to clear up murky pond water.
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| Looking for Weed Killer that Won't Kill Grass
Q: Killing weeds without killing grass: I need a natural homemade weed killer that will kill weeds but not the grass. All I have seen are recipes for non-selective killing. Can anyone help, this must be the best kept secret by the big boys.
Hardiness Zone: 4a
Driftingmist from Quesnel, B.C.
Natural Weed Control
Q: When I moved into my house in 2000, I had a flawless St. Augustine yard. I choose not to use chemicals so I am looking for a natural recipe or product that will kill weeds and not my grass. The grass is thatchy and has browning spots with more and more weeds every year. I only have used Hasta Gro Lawn Feed so far. It helps some but my yard is getting uglier every year.
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Saradise from Waco, Texas
A: Driftingmist and Saradise,
Because you're essentially both asking the same question, I'm going to answer both questions together.
Driftingmist,
While I can't say exactly what the big boys use, I'm not aware of any weed killers (natural or synthetic) that will kill weeds while sparing grass and ornamental plants.
Saradise,
Feeding your yard is great, but a few more steps are needed if you ever hope to restore your lawn to its former glory.
If the both of you desire a weed-free lawn, try the following tips:
- Find out which types of weeds are invading your lawn so you can plan an effective strategy. For example, certain broadleaf weeds thrive in heavy, compact soil. Aerating your lawn can discourage them from taking hold.
- Mow high. Encourage grass to crowd out the weeds by waiting until grass is 4 1/2 inches tall and then cutting it to no shorter than 3 inches. Many people balk at this and it's hard to get used to at first, but it really works. Cutting grass shorter ( more than 1/3 of the blade) only stresses it out and gives encroaching weeds the advantage. Also, keep you lawnmower blades sharp.
- Leave clippings on your lawn. They act like a fertilizer.
- Aerate your lawn. Ideally, this is done by renting a core aerator (best), but it can also be done by hand with a pitchfork or by foot when wearing aerating sandals. What you're shooting for is dime-sized holes every few inches to reverse the effects of soil compaction. Aeration allows moisture to reach the root zone and provides a place where grass seed favors sprouting. Most homeowners vastly under estimate the effects aerating has on the health of their lawn.
- Add 1/4 layer of compost to the lawn in the fall. In a few days it will work its way down into the grass and you won't even see it. Your lawn will love you for it next spring.
- Hand-pull weeds when possible or look for weed-specific hand tools to help do this. Reseed bare patches.
- Overseed thin areas in the fall (mid-August to mid-September). Make sure you use the appropriate grass seed to your light conditions and intended use.
- Spot spray vinegar in sidewalk cracks.
If you're patient, in a few seasons your lawn will be lush and virtually weed-free and you'll be spending a lot less on chemicals. A lawn that is about 15% weeds will look weed-free to the average observer.
Ellen
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Make Your Own Rain Barrel
By Ellen BrownIf you have a downspout on the side of your house or garage that directs water away from your house, you're potentially letting a big part of your water bill wash down the rain gutter. Just 1 inch of rain on a 1000 sq ft roof yields a whopping 62.3 gallons of water! While this water might not be fit for human consumption, reclaiming it for use on the yard and garden make good financial and environmental sense.
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| Storing Seeds
Seeds that you didn't get around to planting this year should be fine next year if stored properly. Most seeds can be stored for 3 to 4 years. The key will be storing the seeds in a cool, dry, and dark place. Keep the temperature between 40 and 50 degrees F. It's best to store them in a moisture-proof, sealed container.
If you have any more tips about storing seeds, feel free to post them below.
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| Rooting a Rosebush
Q: I would like information on how to multiply my great smelling rosebush. I have heard about rooting hormones, but does it really work, and how do you do it?
Hardiness Zone: 6b
Marion from Fort Meade, MD
A: Marion,
The easiest way to propagate your favorite smelling rosebush is by layering. Simply take a long, flexible branch on the outside of your bush, and using a sharp knife, make a small upward cut in the stem 4 to 5 inches from the end. You don't want to cut it completely through, but you will want to stick a small pebble or piece of a toothpick in it to keep it propped it open. This will be where the new roots emerge. Bend the branch down and bury the wounded portion of the stem in the ground. Pin the branch into the soil with bent wire if necessary, and remove any foliage that would end up underground. Before you bury it, you can apply a small amount of rooting hormone to speed up root growth and increase your chance of success. (Yes, it really does work!)
Prop up the tip of the branch that sticks out of the ground and it will continue to grow. Keep the buried stem watered and over several weeks roots will emerge from the wound. When roots have formed, cut the new plant from the mother plant. Wait a few days to see if the roots can sustain your new plant before transplanting it. If your rose bush fails to propagate this way, make cuttings and root them instead.
Good luck!
Ellen
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| Homemade Drip Irrigation Hose
If you have an old or cracked garden hose lying around it's pretty easy to turn it into a drip irrigation hose. Use an ice pick or other sharp implement to poke holes in the hose. Then cut some scrap fabric into strips and tie those around the hose where you have punched holes. Then cap one end of the hose, hook the other end to the faucet and turn the water on low.
By Fisher
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| Deer Resistant Plants
Q: I need some hints for colorful deer resistant plants for shade (perennial preferred). We have deer in our city neighborhood that love to sample every shade loving plant I've tried. At this point, I'll take anything!
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Charlene S. from San Antonio TX
A: Charlene,
Although no plant is absolutely deer proof, certain plants seem more resistant than others-or at least lower down on the preferred browsing list until the deer get really desperate for food. Here are a few hardy to your zone. The shade tolerant Turk's Cap has intense red blooms and evergreen leaves. It comes in two versions, one with small flowers and another with slightly larger flowers. It makes a nice ground cover and is shade tolerant. It's a favorite with hummingbirds and a not-so-favorite of deer. Shrimp plant is another sun or shade tolerant plant that is most known for its orange-red blooms, but it also comes in salmon, yellow and several shades of red. There is a large selection of gingers and many of them bloom in the shade. Coreopsis, Cortaderia (grass), Siberian Iris, Lobelia and Hydrangeas are other examples of shade-tolerant, deer "resistant" plant. Don't forget to consider plants that can add color with their foliage. Texas A & M also has some good information on coping with deer in the garden.
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/deer.html
Just remember that when deer get desperate with hunger, there isn't a plant, tree or shrub in the world they won't eat!
Ellen
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New Requests
| Worms Killing My Zucchini
I have planted zucchini and the plants are beautiful and flowering like mad but now that the zucchini is coming on it is starting to die from some kind of worm coming up through the root and it is killing the plants. What can I do to rid my garden of these destructive worms?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
bshale from Leon, Iowa
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| After Picking Zucchini, My Plants Look Limp
We had a few zucchini ready for picking yesterday, so we picked them. This morning I went to check on the garden and all 3 of our plants are limp and the leaves look like they closed up for the night! What on earth is happening?
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Sarah from Delaware, OH
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| Growing Asiatic Lilies in a Pot
I just bought a pot of asiatic lilies (3 stems). I was wondering could I just grow them in a pot instead of ground? What about next year? Are they going to shoot in the pot for next year? I am a totally newbie at gardening. Any advice is welcomed.
Helen from London, Ontario
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| Using Car Wash Water on Plants
I seen dirty car wash water being used on other dirt but wonder if this could be used on plants to keep bugs off?
Kate from Camden, SC
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| Getting Rid of Poison Ivy
We have a hay field of about 6 acres. It has become overrun with poison ivy. Any ideas of how to eliminate the it without destroying the hay?
Hardiness Zone: 6b
Woofey from Southern, MA
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| Dying Leaves on a Bamboo Plant
I have an indoor bamboo plant. I've had it for two years and it has grown very very little. The leaves are green but several bamboo sticks have had to be removed from the shallow bowl because of mildew (turning very black or yellow and those leaves were dying). I pulled the plant out of the bowl today and the roots are really packed and very orange. Should I have been fertilizing the plant? The plant sits in my kitchen with indirect sunlight. I bought it with many sticks in one bowl. The rocks have turned black!
I hope I have given you enough information. Do you want me to send a pictures?
Hardiness Zone: 7a
Marianne from Richmond, VA
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| Natural Pesticide for Fruit Trees
I am looking for a natural pesticide to kill aphids and black mold on my fruit trees. Does anyone have a natural recipe for this?
Hardiness Zone: 10a
Helene from Sarasota, Florida
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| Getting Rid of Johnson Grass
Besides pulling out early in the season, what can I spray on Johnson Grass to get it out of my lawn? I've been told there is nothing I can do except pull it out (there is too much and it's too hard to pull). I've also been told to hand rub the blades with Roundup. What is your suggestion?
Hardiness Zone: 6b
Bob H from Northern Utah
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| Dealing with Canadian Thistle
Recently we stopped raising horses on our farm. I talked my husband into letting one field go wild to attract wildlife and give them a safe haven. We added a brush pile, have dead trees, a stony area and a fence row. We now have fox, deer, rabbits, chipmunks, owl, squirrel and many species of butterflies and birds. However, it is being overrun with Canadian thistle. It seems every year it is so much worse. I hate to use pesticide as I don't want it around. Any good suggestions on how to get rid of most of the thistle. It is ruining our paradise.
NellieMary from West Virginia
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| Spiders for Pest Control in the Garden
My first year gardening using 'natural predators', so maybe your knowledge about spiders would help answer my question. I know that having spiders in the garden are beneficial since they eat insects. But do they do this for their whole life cycle or just during their infancy? I am wondering if it best to keep the spider webs up (to catch those insects for them) or not.
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Jaime from USA
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| My Daylilies Have Never Bloomed
I have had daylilies for about 3 years now, planted in full sun. I've never had them bloom yet. Any suggestions?
Hardiness Zone: 3b
Deb Tilbury from Manitoba, Canada
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| My Canna Lilly did not bloom this year!
I moved it from back yard sun (plastic container) to sun in a nice blue ceramic pot. This is a short plant (Yellow Bloom). No drainage hole though, but placed river rock in bottom before planting. Should have bloomed, it did for last 2 years. The leaves are nice and green. Picture is included. Can someone tell me anything? Thanks in advance.
Hardiness Zone: 8b
Sherry Hampton from Valdosta, GA
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| My Dog Likes Laying in Mulch
Does anyone know of anything that will work to deter a dog from laying in mulch? We have planted 3 lilac bushes and some hasta in our back yard. We mulched them and our collie decided to start laying in the mulch. We even put a 1 1/2-2 ft. edging-type fence around it and she jumps over the fence to get to it so she can lay in it. She's smashed one of my hasta.. I love my dog, but this has got to stop! HELP!
Robin from Washington, IA
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| Pruning a Jasmine Plant
When is the best time to prune a (star) jasmine plant? I haven't done this yet so how much can I prune it? Do I cut it back a little or way back? Do I have to to this during a particular season or anytime I am up for a bit of gardening work?
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Jaime from USA
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| Leaves Turning Yellow on a Hibiscus
The leaves on my hibiscus are turning yellow. I have beautiful blooms. Does anyone know what I can do?
Thank you,
Tuey From Fort Collins, CO
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| Killing Weeds in Gravel
I am trying to kill weeds in a large area of gravel. There is 6 fruit trees I don't want to effect plus a lawn in the middle that i don't want to kill. So what can I make that is strong enough to kill all the weeds but wont harm other things growing around?
Mike from Big Bear City, CA
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| My Calla Lilies Are Pulled Out Easily
New stems from my Calla Lilies can be pulled up from ground, as if they have been eaten just below ground surface. I don't know if it's caused by insect or if I have watered too much.
Hardiness Zone: 6b
msumom from Middle TN
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| Hibiscus Leaves Turning Yellow
The leaves on my hibiscus plants are turning yellow. Some of the leaves looks limp like they need water. I have beautiful blooms. Can anyone tell me what to do? I do not want to lose my beautiful plants.
TUEY From FORT COLLINS, CO
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Growing Guides
Growing: Beans
By Ellen Brown
| Description: | | There are two main types of beans, those with edible pods and those of which only the seeds are eaten. Snap beans (edible pods) are the most commonly grown, and come in both bush and pole varieties. |
| Harvesting & Storage: | | Harvest beans frequently to keep them producing. Hold pods by the stems or remove them using a scissors to avoid pulling out the plants. |
| Tips to Success: | | Make sure soil has warmed up to the proper temperature before planting. If necessary, cover the site with dark plastic as soon as the soil can be worked. Cover plants with row covers in the fall to extend the season. Beans (especially pole types) are easy to grow in containers. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Raspberries
By Ellen Brown
| Planning Tips: | Depending on the variety grown, raspberries can be harvested from early summer through fall. Once you decide on a variety suited to your zone, select a cultivar designed to bear fruit when you want berries. Since viral diseases are the number one problem for raspberries, select plants from a reputable nursery that are disease resistant and certified virus-free (virus indexed). Raspberries are self-fertile so you can get by with one plant to get a full crop of berries. Expect to pick your first crop anywhere from 8 months to 2 years after planting depending on the variety. Mature plants can produce from 4 to 6 pounds of berries per year. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Plums
By Ellen Brown
| Planning Tips: | Plums are related to cherries and peaches, and many of aspects of their growing and care are similar. The key to growing plums is to select a variety that is suitable to your zone. There are two major types of plums-European and Japanese. European plums are hardy to zones 5-9 and Japanese plums to zones 6-10. Certain American plums and hybrids are extremely cold and drought tolerant and hardy as far north as zone 4. Select disease resistant trees that are 1 to 2 years old. Most European and American plum varieties are self-fertile, but produce much better yields if planted with other cultivars. Japanese plums must be cross-pollinated, either by American or other Japanese cultivars. A mature, full-size tree will produce about 50 pounds of plums every year. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Broccoli
By Ellen Brown
| Description: | | Broccoli have thick, upright green stalks that hold heads of multiple clusters of tiny edible flower buds. They belong to the cabbage family. |
| Harvesting & Storage: | | Broccoli should be harvested before the flower buds open. Cut off the main heads with a sharp knife when they reach 3 to 4 inches across. Cut the stems at an angle so water will run off the stems instead of collecting and causing stem rot. After removing the main head, smaller heads will sprout and should be cut when they are green. Soak heads in salt water for 30 minutes before cooking or storing to drive out any hidden cabbage worms lurking in the heads. Store broccoli wrapped for 1 week in the refrigerator. |
| Tips to Success: | | Start spring crops indoors to protect them from temperature fluctuations and developing premature flower heads or "buttons." |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Beets
By Ellen Brown
| Description: | | Beets have green, leafy stems and a round fleshy tap root measuring 4 to 6 inches in diameter. They are typically red in color. |
| Harvesting & Storage: | | Pull beets when they reach 2 inches in diameter. Remove tops to store in the refrigerator or store in boxes layered with sand or peat and keep them at temperatures of 35º to 40º F (up to 5 months). Cover fall crops with mulch and store in the ground. To prevent bleeding, leave 1/2 of the leaf top attached. |
| Tips to Success: | | A common mistake is over planting and under thinning. Beet seeds are actually small fruits that each contains 4 to 8 potential seedlings apiece so don't plant seeds to thickly together. If not thinned properly, they won't develop roots worth harvesting. Thin when seedlings are 1 to 2 inches high to 1/2 inch apart and as necessary as the plants grow. |
More Growing Information: Click Here | Growing: Lemon Balm
By Ellen Brown
| Description: |
| Like its name suggests, Lemon Balm has a strong and invigorating lemon scent. Its decorative appearance includes clusters of tiny white flowers, and vein-filled, oval-shaped leaves that contain lemon-scented oils. Lemon Balm grows to a height of 3 feet and gives the best show when planted along borders or in front of shrubs. Varieties are available to compliment every plant in the garden, including cultivars for shade with bright, golden-yellow leaves, and sun-lovers with leaves splashed in lime-green and gold. Lemon Balm flowers are attractive to bees, so avoid using them directly along paths and walkways. |
| Harvesting and Storage: |
| Cut leaves from plants as needed. Gently crush the leaves to release their scented oils. Oils are at their highest concentrations in the leaves during the early evening hours. |
More Growing Information: Click Here |
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