December 14, 2006

Happy Garden Newsletter - December 14, 2006


Volume 1, Number 46, December 14, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com

Hello,

This week we have an article about Aftercare For Holiday Plants as well as more answers to your questions. We will not be publishing an issue next week so I hope everyone enjoys the holiday.

Thanks for reading,

Susan

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Today's Photos

Holiday Decorations - Water Feature

Holiday Decorations - Water Feature

My water feature holiday decorations. I placed 3 lighted Christmas gifts in front of the pond; I put silk poinsettas on the water fall and a Santa in the center of the rock at the base of the waterfall; I have pots of ornamental kale; pansies, mums, and other winter annuals. The lights on the house behind the feature are stars and snowflakes. Wreaths decorate the house. I have a large star floating in the pond. We have large Christmas balls hanging from coat hangers that are hung in the trees in the yard.

I will decorate my water feature for every season and every holiday. It is so soothing when you walk up to my door to walk up and find this feature; there is not a lot of water in the pond right now but it looks very natural like in a wooded area in a forest setting.

By WandaJo from Tennessee

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Today's Tips and Articles

Windowsill Celery Hearts

Grow celery hearts on your windowsill this winter. It's easy and they're pretty and delicious. Next time you buy a stalk of celery, cut the heel off about an inch from the bottom. That is, cut across the stalk so you have a crosswise slice off the end. Then do what we used to do with avocado pits - stick a few toothpicks in the side, fill a glass almost to the top with water, and rest the celery heel with toothpicks on the rim of the glass so that the bottom of the heel is just touching the water. Keep the water at that level, and after a week or so, you'll have little celery hearts sprouting from the middle of the heel. They keep sprouting for weeks.

By Jantoo from Kenosha Co., WI

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Crepe Myrtle Not Blooming

Question:

I have a very large crepe myrtle that doesn't bloom much but it's very tall and not bushy at all. What's the problem. My other crepes didn't bloom much this summer either.

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Shelah from Spring City, TN

Answer:

Shelah,

The number one most common reason Crepe Myrtles fail to bloom is improper pruning techniques (or a lack of pruning altogether). Crepe Myrtles bloom on the current season's growth. If they are pruned too late, all the new wood is removed and the flower buds never develop. Pruning should be done only after the tree flowers. You said your tree is very large so it may be older. Declining Crepe Myrtles can be revived by pruning. In the dormant season, some of the extraneous branches are cleaned up and removed, opening the interior of the plant to more sunlight and air circulation. Be careful not to commit "crepe murder." Just cut the branches to enhance the natural, overall appearance of the tree, don't whack them all back to one height.

The second most common reason Crepe myrtles fail to bloom is a lack of sun. These trees need a lot of sunshine if you want them to bloom. Are there any trees nearby that may have grown up and around your Crepe myrtle and are blocking some sun?

Is your tree otherwise healthy? Do you see any signs of insect damage or disease? Stress from either can be enough to prevent your tree from blooming.

Is your tree getting too much nitrogen or not enough phosphorus? Trees in the middle of a chemically treated lawn or near garden beds that are heavily fertilized may be getting too much of a good thing when it comes to nitrogen. This promotes healthy leaves, but inhibits flowering. Try adding a little bit of bonemeal as mulch around the tree. This will add phosphorus to the soil over time and you don't have to worry about overdoing it.

Ellen

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Rose Bush Cuttings

Question:

How do I take a cutting of a rose bush branch for replanting?

Hardiness Zone: 5b

Gale from Missouri

Answer:

Gale,

How you take cuttings can vary a bit depending on the variety of rose, but here are some general tips:

  1. Select straight, healthy, disease-free stems to take the cuttings from. The cuttings should have 5 or 6 leaves attached.

  2. Cut off about 12 inches from the top just below a leaf node. A node left near this cut end may help the cutting root more easily. Pull off the leaves along the stem, leaving two at the top for photosynthesis. These soft stem cuttings are usually taken in the late spring or early fall from the young stems of the current year's growth.

  3. Some rose varieties will also root well without leaves. Cuttings from these can be taken in the winter (November-January).

  4. Place the cuttings in a sealed plastic bag and put them in a cool place (about 40ºF)like the refrigerator overnight. This will give the wounds time to seal without letting the cuttings dry out.

  5. There are several ways to root the cutting from this point. The no fuss way is to poke a narrow, pencil-sized hole directly into the ground where you want to plant it, dip the butt end of the cutting in rooting hormone, insert the cutting 6 inches, mound up the soil around it, water it and pray it works. Lots of times it does, especially if you have quality soil and a humid environment. The appearance of new leaves after several weeks is your sign that all is well.

  6. Another method is to dip the ends of the cuttings into rooting hormone and insert them into the ground or into small pots. Use the top half of a 2-liter soda, plastic baggy or a glass jar to cover the cuttings and create humid, greenhouse-like conditions, but remove it to allow for air circulation once in a while. If the cutting gets too wet, it will rot. You can use shorter cuttings for this (6 inches) to make covering them more manageable.

  7. If rooting in pots, use a 1:1 mixture of potting soil and vermiculite (or perlite).

  8. Making a 1/2 inch vertical slit in the base of cuttings will help encourage rooting.

  9. Always use a sharp pruning shears when taking cutting to prevent crushing the stems.

  10. Cuttings should roots in 4 to 8 weeks. Test them with a tug. If they resist, they've probably rooted.

Good Luck!
Ellen

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Is This Weed Killer Safe For Pets

Question:

Is the vinegar, salt and soap weed killer harmful to pets? I would like to try it on my paved area however my puppy is likely to lick the area. Should I apply and then keep her away for a week? Hose it in after a few days?

Stacey from Australia

Answer:

The ASPCA lists salt as a food to avoid giving your pet. It has also been my personal experience that a lot of dogs (and some cats) enjoy the smell and taste of soap (although usually bar soap). None of these ingredients are likely to seriously hurt your pet in small quantities, but mild to severe digestive upsets are possible depending on the quantities ingested. I would feel comfortable telling you to apply it and then keep her away from the area for a week. That is more than enough time for it to work on weeds. If after that you notice that she starts licking the area, go ahead and wash it down with a hose. Here are some more food and household products the ASPCA deems unsafe for dogs and cats. For more information visit www.aspca.org

Foods

  • Alcohol
  • Avocado
  • Chocolate (all forms, including garden mulch made from cocoa shells)
  • Fatty foods
  • Macadamia nuts
  • Moldy or spoiled foods
  • Onions, onion powder
  • Raisin or grapes
  • Salt
  • Yeast dough
  • Garlic
  • Products sweetened with xylitol (a sweetener common in diabetic diets)

Warm Weather Garden Hazards

  • Animal toxins-toads, insects, spiders, snakes, and scorpions
  • Blue-green pond algae
  • Citronella candles
  • Cocoa mulch
  • Compost piles & Fertilizers
  • Certain outdoor plants and bulbs
  • Swimming pool chemicals
  • Fly baits containing methomyl
  • Slug and snail bait containing metaldehyde

Medications (even in small doses)

  • Pain killers
  • Cold medicines
  • Anti-cancer drugs
  • Antidepressants
  • Vitamins
  • Diet Pills

Cold Weather Hazards

  • Antifreeze
  • Liquid Potpourri
  • Ice melting products
  • Rat and mouse bait

Common Household Hazards

  • Fabric softener sheets
  • Mothballs
  • Post-1982 pennies (due to high zinc concentrations)

Holiday Hazards

  • Christmas tree water (may contain fertilizers and bacteria, which can cause digestive upsets).
  • Electrical cords
  • Ribbon and tinsel (can cause intestinal blockages. Most often occurs in kittens!)
  • Batteries
  • Glass ornaments

Non-toxic Substances for Dogs and Cats

These are considered non-toxic, although they can cause mild gastrointestinal upset in some animals:
  • Water-based paints
  • Toilet bowl water (unless treated with chemicals)
  • Silica gel
  • Poinsettia
  • Cat Litter
  • Glue traps
  • Glow jewelry

Good Luck!
Ellen

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Growing Pineapple

Question:

I really like fresh pineapple, I was visiting an Island called St. Lucie and I ate the best pineapple I have ever had. Does anyone have suggestions on how I can start my own plant? I was wondering if I could use the top of a store bought pineapple and do like a potato to start it, but I do not know if it would work. Thanks for any ideas you may have.

Hardiness Zone: 8b

Rodney from Dallas, TX

Answer:

Rodney,

Yes! You can definitely start your own plant from the top of a store-bought pineapple. I would recommend starting with an organically grown pineapple, because it's likely to contain less chemical residues that could interfere with growth.

All you need to do to start is to grab the pineapple by the crown and twist off the top. A small portion of the stalk will remain attached. Let this piece dry out for a few days before you plant it to help prevent decay. After the crown has "cured", you'll want to strip the lower 1 inch of the stalk of its leaves or they'll rot when covered with dirt.

Fill a 6-inch pot with 2 parts potting mix and 1 part perlite (or peat moss). Place the crown piece on top of the soil mix and place it in a location with bright (not direct) sunlight (at least 5-6 hours per day). If you plant the stalk in the pot at an angle, so only part of it touches the soil, there is less chance of the stalk rotting. However, this is not necessary. Dipping the stalk-end in rooting hormone first is also optional. Keep the soil moist by misting it with water. You may want to cover the pot with a plastic bag to conserve moisture. Be patient. The stalk may root in as little as 2 to 3 weeks, but you may have to wait for several months before you see signs of new growth. Once you do, repot the rooted crown into a 1-gallon container filled with a well-drained growing medium.

Start fertilizing the crown once a month during the active growing season. Keep the pot outdoors during the summer and bring it inside for the winter. The crown should stay in this gallon-size pot for at least 1 year. After that you can move the plant to a 5-gallon container filled with well-drained soil and a bit of compost or well-rotted manure. Always keep the soil moist, but not wet. After yet another season (a total of 2 to 3 years time since planting), watch for small blue flowers. Three to 4 months after they appear you should have a pineapple.

Ellen

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Potato Plants Not Blooming

Question:

I planted potatoes in pots on my balcony. They are now over a metre and a half high but have not bloomed. There are 5 plants, only one has had 3 blooms. I planted them in July. They just won't stop growing. Is there a problem?

Sishuba

Answer:

Sishuba,

It sounds to me like you're potatoes are getting a lot of nitrogen. This promotes a lot of growth, but it doesn't encourage flowering. Still, it shouldn't be a problem. According to the, "Potato Association of America Handbook: Introduction," (http://www.umaine.edu/PAA/ )flower production isn't necessary for potatoes to produce tubers, although they often coincide because of environmental conditions.

"...Contrary to a commonly accepted notion, tuberization is not dependent upon flowering. Potato plants will form tubers without any flowers ever appearing on the tops. Some researchers have suggested that tuberization is actually enhanced by removing the flowers or flower buds. The notion that tuberization depends on flowering arose because unfavorable climates such as hot and dry growing conditions, which are normally unfavorable for flowering, also retard or even inhibit tuber formation. Because climatic conditions that favor flowering also favor tuberization, it seems natural to make the mistake of associating flowering with high yields and poor flowering with low yields..."

As you can see, you can still expect some tubers. You might see lower than normal yields due to growing conditions, but not because your plants are failing to produce flowers.

Ellen

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Weeds in My Lawn

Question:

Our lawn is full of dandelion, clover and what I believe it is creeping charlie. What can I use that is homemade that will help to get rid of these without killing the grass?

Hardiness Zone: 5b

Midge from Buffalo, NY

Answer:

Sorry Midge, in the world of weed control, nothing homemade exists that will kill your weeds without killing your grass. In some areas you can carefully spot-spray weeds with a solution of vinegar, salt and a few drops of dish soap, but this homemade solution will kill anything it comes into contact with (including grass) and depending on the weed, it's only effective on above ground growth so it's not a guaranteed fix. I would advise some good old-fashioned elbow grease (hand-pulling) and applying an effective pre-emergent like corn meal gluten in the spring to help prevent some annual weed seeds from germinating. Otherwise the best way "homemade" way to improve your weed situation is to try to improve you lawncare practices. The healthier your lawn is, the more difficult of a time weeds will have taking over. Here are several suggestions:
  • Mow at the recommended height for your grass (usually at least 3 inches), or set your blade higher than you've been mowing. Taller grass helps prevent sunlight from reaching weed seeds and seedlings.

  • Hand-pull (or mow) weeds before they get the chance to go to seed.

  • Make sure your lawn gets enough water. A good rule of thumb is at least 1 inch every 10 days to encourage good root growth and a thick, weed-resistant turf.

  • Fertilize in late spring with a sprinkling of compost or aged manure to boost the vitality of your grass.

  • Aerate your turf each spring to help air, water and nutrients reach grass roots.

Good Luck!
Ellen

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Houseplant Cuttings As Gifts

For a thrifty gift this year, I decided to give pieces of my newly trimmed houseplants that I had rooted with a little poem attached. I ran into an issue finding decent priced pots to plant them in this non repotting time of year. So always looking for ways to recycle, I used some of my rinsed and delabeled aluminum cans in various sizes! Simply turn them on their side and with a metal bit on your drill poke a few drainholes about a quarter of the way up the can (Hence creating a retainer for water without drainage all over your counter). Put a coffee filter in the bottom, just like you would in the basket to make coffee and fill with your potting soil and water.

Viola! (-: attach a kitchey little poem about your "Friendship, Blessing, Love (Pick a theme that fits your receiver) Plant". This works great with plants that give off starts like a spider plant or creeping jasper. Dress up the can as needed, a pretty bag or glitter works great!

By Rebecca from Coos Bay, OR

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Aftercare For Holiday Plants
By Ellen Brown

The holidays are full of traditions, many of which include giving, receiving and decorating with potted seasonal plants. With the proper care, many potted plants can be carried over from season to season. Here's a handy guide to keep yours looking and blooming their best, long after the holidays fade.

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Canadian Grass That Discourages Crabgrass

Question:

I have heard that there is a type of Canadian grass that produces a thick, lush, and hardy lawn. It is supposed to crowd out crabgrass. What is the name of it and where is the best place or website to purchase it at?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Vanet from Saugerties, NY

Answer:

Vanet,

Are you talking about Canada Green Grass? http://www.seenontvproducts.net/...canada%20grass&OVMTC=standard

If so, I would advise you to check out what others are saying on this forum before spending your money: http://turfgrass.com/ubb/Forum5/HTML/000002-2.html

It sounds to me like this particular mix is quite the wonder grass. I'm sure this mix could work under the right conditions, but whether or not your site has the right conditions is something you'll have to research. Try to find out if someone on this forum has grown it successfully where you live.

A good mixture of grass seed for lawns in your zone will probably contain roughly 50% Kentucky bluegrass, 30-40% red fescue, and 10 to 20% perennial ryegrass. A diverse mixture is important. Most turf diseases go after one type of grass so a mixture helps to ensure that at least some of your lawn will remain protected should the worst happen. Look for high-quality mixes. They may cost a bit more, but you're likely to get what you pay for. Less expensive mixes have a lower rate of germination and are more likely to contain unwanted types of seeds (weeds).

Good luck!
Ellen

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When should I lay new sod grass?

Question:

When should I lay new sod grass, fall or spring?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Bucchieri from Salem, Oregon

Answer:

Bucchieri,

As long as the ground isn't frozen or covered with snow, anytime is a good time to lay sod. Spring and fall both have the advantage of being moister months. The key to having sod take successfully depends a lot more on how well you prepare the site and aftercare than what time of year you lay it.

Prepwork: The very first thing you should do is to have your soil tested. The results will tell you whether or not fertilizer or amendments need to be added to your pre work and if so, how much to add. To prepare for sod, start by removing all existing grass, weeds and large rocks. Next you'll want to dig up the top 6 inches of soil using a rototiller. If the soil is poor quality, till in an additional 3 to 4 inches of new topsoil into the existing layer. This is also when you want to add additional soil amendments you need and change the slope or drainage if necessary. About 1 week later till the area again and level it using a rake.

Install your sod as soon as it arrives.

Aftercare: Until the new sod roots down into the soil, it's going to need regular watering so it doesn't dry and shrink. Plan on keeping it damp for at least two weeks and avoid walking on it as much as possible. After it starts to grow, set your mower blades higher for the first few cuts.

Ellen

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New Requests

Plants That Like Coffee Grounds

I read that you can give coffee and the grounds to plants. Does anyone have a list of plants that I can use coffee?

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Dawn from Elmira, NY

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Green Oranges

How do I change the color from green to orange on my oranges?

Hardiness Zone: 9b

Raj from Kenya

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Buying Pots for Plants

Where can I buy pots for my houseplants? I have not been able to find them in stores, no matter the time of year, and the clerks I have asked look at me as though I am at worst, insane, or at best, completely unreasonable. Meanwhile, the roots of my pothos are growing out the bottom of its pot. I just want to buy a pot, preferably clay, but plastic is okay. Yes, I have looked online, and have found only fancy planters.

Please help!

Thank you.

Sincerely,
Barbara from St. Cloud, MN

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What is the name of this plant?

Do you happen to know the name of this plant? Common and/or scientific would be great. However, I'll take whatever you can give me.

Hardiness Zone: 7a

Thanks,
James from Roswell, NM

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Hibiscus Not Blooming

I have a hibiscus tree that has not bloomed in quite sometime. Someone has mentioned pruning the tree down. What do you recommend?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Waynette from Kansas City, MO

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Alberta Spruce Tree Turning Brown

We have a variation of the Alberta spruce tree/shrub. They seem to be shedding a lot of their greenery. They are turning brown in many, many areas. In the spring I gave them some extra fertilizer for this type of shrub but it did not seem to help. These are up by the house (about a foot from the house) and the back of the shrub on several of them is almost totally brown. I water them all summer and into late fall. Not sure what to do to help them along. Last summer was their second season.

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Thanks for any advice,
Ginger from Ohio

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