The Happy Garden Newsletter - March 9, 2006

Hello,

We have lots of interesting advice this week, I hope you find it useful.

Happy gardening,

Susan

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Today's newsletter contains:

Today's Tips and Articles:

• Tips For Ordering From Garden Catalogs
• Caring for a Bougainvillea
• Grub Worm Problem
• Planting the Top of a Pineapple
• Growing Recommendations for Zone 5b
• Pest Control With Horticultural Oil
• Waterfall Rain Barrel
• Help Save My Vine
• Growing Vanilla Beans
• Getting Seeds from Hummingbird Vine Pods
• Dealing With Ant Hills
• Epsom Salts for Roses
• Curling Leaves on a Anemone Coronaria Bulbs
• "Sparkler" Cleomes From Seed in Louisiana
• Growing Monster Vegetables

New Requests:

• Can I Grow Anemone Indoors?
• Starting Dried Bulbs
• Growing Herb Indoors
• Container Gardening in Texas
• Help My Hydrangea

Growing Guides:

• Growing: Caladium
• Growing: Chinese Ground Orchid
• Growing: Rhubarb
• Growing: Camassia (Wild Hyacinth)
• Growing: Calla Lily
• Growing: Cannas

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Today's Tips and Articles

Tips For Ordering From Garden Catalogs By Ellen Brown January is the month most garden catalogs arrive in our mailboxes. Each one is chock-full of compelling descriptions and colorful, larger-than-life photographs of perfect plants (the supermodels of the fruit, vegetable and flower world). It's the stuff garden dreams are made of. To turn those picture-perfect dreams into reality, follow these simple tips for ordering from garden catalogs. View This Article: Click Here

Caring for a Bougainvillea Q: I've had a Bougainvillea for 2 years as a houseplant. It's tall, has lots of leaves, but does not flower. It looks sickly, how can I better care for it? Hardiness Zone: 6b Thank you, Christy from Colorado A: Christy, It can be challenging to get Bougainvillea to flower under ordinary indoor conditions, so if possible move them to a sunny location outdoors for the summer. Like other flowering houseplants, Bougainvilleas need more light than non-flowering houseplants. Daylight triggers blooming. They will usually bloom when the number of available daylight hours equals the number of hours of darkness. During this time they need a minimum of 5 hours of direct sunlight each day. In the spring and summer, keep soil moist and temperatures warm-the warmer the better. Fertilize them during the active growing period with a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer (like Miracle Grow) applied at 1/2 strength-don't over do it. As temperatures drop in the fall, cease feeding, back off on the watering and move them to a cooler room (50º-60ºF). Gradually increase the temperature and watering again once spring arrives. If your indoor air is dry, mist the leaves regularly to increase the humidity around the plant. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Grub Worm Problem Q: We have a grub worm problem that we would like to get rid of. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Hardiness Zone: 8a Jodi from Gary, Texas A: Jodi, Most healthy lawns (and gardens) can handle a few grubs without much problem. When their numbers reach about 12 to 15 per square foot, however, the damage becomes more serious. Grubs are the larvae of various kinds of beetles. These beetles usually lay eggs in your lawn and garden in the summer (June or July). When the eggs hatch, the larvae feast on the roots of grass, vegetables, annuals and perennial plants throughout the fall and winter. Damage is usually the worst in fall lawns, because the grass is in a semi-dormant state. By spring, the larvae transform into the next generation of adult beetles and repeat the cycle over again. There are some organic controls on the market under the names of Margosan©, Neem©, or Scanmask©. Nematodes can also be modestly effective on grub infestations while they are in the newly hatched stage. Birds, especially Robins and other songbirds, are very fond of grubs. The best long-term control may be to work on attracting more "worm-eating" birds to your back yard. Also, keep your lawn lightly watered to help offset damage suffered to grass roots. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Planting the Top of a Pineapple Q: I am interested in taking a pineapple and cutting off the top to plant. Can anyone give me some good suggestions on how to do this? Hardiness Zone: 6a Linda A: Linda, It takes some patience to grow a pineapple this way, but it's worth the effort. Start with an organic pineapple. They are less likely to contain pesticide residues that can inhibit growth. Grab the pineapple by the leafy crown and twist off the top (a little of the stalk will remain attached). Let this crown piece cure (dry) for 5 days. This will help seal off openings and prevent rotting and decay. After curing, bare the stalk by removing the lower 15 leaves from the crown, pulling them in a downward fashion. If you notice tiny roots forming at the base of the leaves, try not to damage them. Fill a 6-inch pot with 2 parts potting mix and 1 part perlite (or peat moss). Place the crown piece on top of the soil mix and place it in a location with bright (not direct) sunlight (at least 5-6 hours per day). Keep the soil moist (not wet). It may take as long as 2-3 months, but eventually you should see new growth. Repot the rooted crown to a gallon-size container using a mixture with slightly less perlite or peat moss) and start fertilizing the crown once a month during the active growing season. Keep the pot outdoors during the summer and bring it inside for the winter. The crown should stay in this gallon-size pot for at least 1 year. After 1 year, move the plant to a 5-gallon planter filled with well-drained soil amended with a little manure or compost. The soil should be kept moist (not wet). After another season, the plant will experience a surge in growth. Watch for short-lived, delicate blue flowers, followed by fruit in 3-4 months. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Growing Recommendations for Zone 5b Q: Thank you! I am constantly wondering what "zone" I am in. With your request came Hardiness Zone and a drop down menu and voilà, Columbia, MO (10 minutes from here) was actually on list. I would like to know what trees, plants and flowers would do best here (Zone 5b). We have a new home and need trees, plants and flowers that I can take care of. I do well with tulips, daffodils, crocus and the summer salvia types. Thank you for your help. Hardiness Zone: 5b Annie Hill from Hallsville, MO A: Annie, Rather than list hundreds of possibilities for the trees, plants and flowers that grow well in your zones, I'm going to point you toward three very good online resources for your area. The first is University of Missouri Extension Agency web site (http://extension.missouri.edu). Under news and publications you will find excellent gardening resources, including lists of tree, plant and flower cultivars especially suited to your zone and how to take care of them. Another wonderful resource in your area is the Missouri Botanical Garden web site (http://www.mobot.org). On the home page, click on the Gardening Help link for information on gardening classes, plant information and a gardening tips calendar. Both of these sites also offer links to other great resources. Finally, the most drought tolerant and disease resistant plants, and therefore the easiest to care for, are native plants. Check out the Missouri Native Plant Society (http://www.missouri.edu/~umo_herb/monps/). The site offers several downloadable files in PDF format, including list of ideas for native trees and shrubs, plants for butterfly gardening and tips on buying plants. Good luck! Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Pest Control With Horticultural Oil Q: We bought a house several years ago with a huge, full-grown elm tree in the yard. It has aphids, I believe (little hard bumps on the leaves). We have heard of using a ring of Horticultural Oil around the tree, but need more information. How far up the tree? How wide a swath? How often? What time of year? Does anyone have a little more information for us? Thank you, Hardiness Zone: 5a Cee from Roscoe, Illinois A: Cee, Without seeing your leaves it's hard to know exactly what kind of insect you're dealing with, but from what you describe it doesn't sound like aphids. If the little hard bumps on your leaves are red or green they are insect leaf galls. Once they appear there is no way to treat them. The good news is, they won't cause any serious damage to your tree-other than being unsightly. If the nodes are hard and waxy looking, you may be dealing with scale. In regards to Aphids, Wholly Aphids are common to Elms, but they are soft-bodied and their eggs usually spend winter in cracks or crevices in the bark. Aphid infestation on Elms is typically characterized by curling leaves and the appearance of sticky sap in the spring and early summer while the aphids feed on the leaves. Before you take any action you need to determine exactly what you're dealing with, and whether or not your tree requires treatment. Take a few leaves or a picture of a few leaves to a local nursery or tree expert to diagnose the problem. Good luck! Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Waterfall Rain Barrel Get water for your garden and a waterfall for your window for free or low-cost with common items from around your house or at a thrift/discount store. You get natural rainwater to save for watering your garden when needed later and the soothing sound of a waterfall when it rains (so now you'll have another reason to look forward to a rainy day). Simply place a sheet of material under the lip of your roof, resting across the gutter and about half the sheet hanging over the gutter so the water will cascade into your container below. All you need is three items: 1) Any large solid container (if there are holes, fill or tape the holes) -- an old garbage can works great. 2) Any thin sheet of metal or plastic that is flexible but does not droop when held up in the air with one hand and similar in width to the width of your container (so, if your container is about 1 foot wide then your sheet could be approximately 1 foot square by one-eighth inch thick) -- a piece of metal from a worn out screen door works well here (and if you do use a screen door, you can place the screen portion over your container to keep out leaves and debris) 3) Two c-clamps or other clamps to secure the middle of the sheet on each side to your gutter. ENJOY! By Leo from Portland, OR Post Feedback: Click Here

Help Save My Vine Q: I have inherited some household plants from my recently deceased mother in law. I don't have a green thumb, and find myself at a loss with one particular vine. It has green and yellow variegated heart shaped leaves and is in a hanging basket. My problem is that some of its leaves are turning yellow and dyeing off. What am I doing wrong? I am watering while trying to be sure I don't over water. I give it a good soak, then I let it completely dry out before re-watering it (about a week to 10 days). She has had this plant for a very long time. I hate the thought of killing it once it came into my household and care. She didn't have it near a window so I haven't put it near one either, do any of you have any suggestions? Should I give it more light? I have also noticed a browning on the tips of a few of the leaves as well, what causes this? Please help me save this plant! Thank you, Brenda from Athens, Ohio A: Brenda, Without knowing what type of plant you have it's difficult to diagnose. If possible, get to the library or search online and try to determine exactly what type of plant you're dealing with. The most common reasons houseplants fail are: soil dryness; overwatering; underwatering; cold nights; strong direct sunlight; hot, dry air; cold drafts and too little light. You'll need to look at your specific environment and try to diagnose the problem by the process of elimination. If the plant is mature, it's normal for an occasional lower leaf to turn yellow and eventually fall off. However, if several leaves turn yellow at the same time and then fall off, the most likely cause is overwatering or cold drafts. Also consider shock. If the plant has been dropping leaves quickly without a prolonged period of discoloration it could be signaling that it has recently experienced some sort of shock. This could be from being moved (into a new house), from a cold draft or the roots are becoming too dry between waterings. Check to make sure the plant isn't located in an area near doors or leaky windows. You might consider purchasing an inexpensive water meter to stick in the soil to measure the moisture content. Leaves develop brown tips for many reasons. One is dry air-especially this time of the year. Check to see if you have it hanging near a heating vent. Keep a water bottle close at hand and give the plant a mist a couple of times a day when you walk by. Bruising can also result in brown tips on leaves. Leaves can be accidentally bruised if touched by people or animals, or if they are pressed up against windows or walls. Other reasons can include overwatering, underwatering, too little light, too much direct sun, too little heat, over feeding, or cold drafts. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Growing Vanilla Beans Q: I want to grow vanilla beans. How do I start? Hardiness Zone: 11 Gaines from Juquitiba, SP, Brazil Gains, As you probably know, growing vanilla beans is an ambitious and time-consuming task-up to three years of time can pass from planted seed to cured beans! Still, if you have the time and patience (and don't forget the handing pollinating) the rewards of growing your own beans is hard to beat. In Brazil, you're already in the right climate. Vanilla beans belong to the Orchid family and come from several different species of perennial climbing vines. Most commercial vanilla comes from V. Planifolia, also sometimes referenced as V. frangrans. There is also a lesser-known West Indian species, V. pompona. The easiest, and fastest way to start a plant is from cuttings. The problem most people have (besides the lack of patience to see the entire process to the end) is sourcing the beans and cuttings. First you have to find them, and then you have to be able to afford them. Once you acquire them, the plant itself is not hard to get started. One source on the web that promises worldwide delivery is www.vanillaplantation.com They are based in Australia and sell beans and cuttings. They also have growing instructions on their website. If it turns out that the long, expensive and often arduous process of growing vanilla beans is not for you, try Tonka Beans. Tonka Beans are seeds from (Dipteryx odorata), a large tree that is native to your Brazilian rainforest. I don't have much information of them, but the seeds contain coumarin, which is used in perfumes and as a vanilla-like flavoring in sweets and tobacco. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Getting Seeds from Hummingbird Vine Pods Q: I have a hummingbird vine that produced long pods last year. Can I start another vine from these? And if so, how? There are still some brown, dried out pods on it from last year. Hardiness Zone: 6 Betty from Hudson Valley area NY A: Betty, Yes, you can certainly start new vines from last year's seeds. If the dried pods failed to drop off the vines last year and have spent the winter outdoors, then Mother Nature has already winterized them for you. You can sow them directly in the ground from the date of your last frost through early summer. Alternatively, they can also be started indoors 6 to 8 weeks before you expect to plant them in the garden. Plant the seeds in full sun to a depth of 1/2" and spaced 1" apart. They will tolerate almost any type of soil and can be transplanted easily. The seeds should germinate in 5-15 days. When they are old enough to handle, thin them to 6"-8" apart. Once established, mature plants usually reseed easily. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Dealing With Ant Hills Q: We are starting to have an ant problem again this year. I am looking for something that will get rid for them, maybe something that can be made from items in the kitchen. There seems to be thousands of tiny ones in each hill. We do have animals and don't want anything that will be harmful to them. Hardiness Zone: 8a Jodi from Gary, Texas A: Jodi, Most ants are important to the garden. They help aerate the soil, scatter seeds and prey on harmful insects. When they become a nuisance, the best approach to controlling ants is to figure out what types of ants you have and what factors are contributing to the problem. Ants will naturally set up colonies where access to food and water is readily available. For example, certain types of ants herd and prey on sap-sucking insects like aphids. If you get rid of the aphids, you will soon have fewer ants. If ants are getting into your house, take note of how they are getting in and where they are headed. Remove any crumbs or other sources of food and water that they seem to be taking advantage of (inside and outside). Seal off cracks in doors or windows with a bit of Elmer's© glue or clear silicon sealant to prevent them from entering. Add a little boric acid to the glue or sealant to keep them from eating the glue. For immediate relief indoors, try combining 8 oz. of lavender-scented ivory dish soap with 1 oz. of an essential oil like Cinnamon, Citronella, Rose or Tea Tree oil. Add 5 tablespoons of this to a quart of water and apply it using a spray bottle. This isn't a solution for long-term control but it will help temporarily. You can also spray this on garbage containers outdoors. If ants are after your fruit trees, try placing duct tape (sticky-side out) around the trunk to keep them from climbing up the trunk. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Epsom Salts for Roses Q: I've heard that Epsom salts are good for roses. How much of it should I use and how often? Do you have any other suggestions for care of roses? Hardiness Zone: 10a Thank you. Mary from Redding, CA A: Mary, Rose growers sometimes use Epsom salt in order to add magnesium to the soil. Roses tend to be heavy feeders of magnesium, but if you already feed you roses a balanced fertilizer containing magnesium, you probably don't need to add any to your soil. A soil test is the only way to tell for sure. If you do need it, sprinkle a couple of teaspoons around each bush once a month before watering. Any more and you could risk hurting your plants. Follow these general tips for raising good roses: 1. When planting, older varieties tend to be hardier, so do potted vs. bare-root roses. 2. Roses should be planted in the late spring and early summer to give roots time to develop before winter. 3. Plant roses in rich, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 to 7. 4. Planting holes need to be at least 2 1/2 times the size of the root ball. 5. Give roses a good, deep soaking (4-5 gallons) once per week. 6. Feed roses lightly (but often) from spring until 6-8 weeks before your first frost. 7. Keep canes healthy by following a regular pruning and maintenance schedule according to the rose type (bush, tree, climbing). The Shasta Rose Society in Redding, CA, has a good web site with tips for caring for roses in your climate. It also lists events, meetings, tours, and a Rosarian Expert that you can email with specific questions about roses in your area. http://www.shastarosesociety.org Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Curling Leaves on a Anemone Coronaria Bulbs Q: I have planted some Anemone Coronaria Bulbs in pots indoors. They started out with full leaves but now they are starting to curl and seem a bit dry. They were in a window in sunlight but, possibly too cold? Any advice would be helpful. Hardiness Zone: 6a PAT from MASSACHUSETTS A: Pat, Leaf curling is often caused by too little heat, overwatering, underwatering or cold drafts. To pinpoint the cause, look at those factors first. You may be right about it being too cold. Anemone bulbs are quite susceptible to damage from cold temperatures. Try moving them back from the window to a warm location that is bright, out of direct sunlight. Make sure you keep the soil moist, but not saturated and give them a shot of 1/2 strength plant fertilizer. The bulbs should not be allowed to dry out at anytime during the forcing period. As with all bulbs, successful forcing of Anemone Coronaria also depends on the development of good roots during the cold storage period. If you suspect this could be the problem, you could try to move the bulbs back into a cool, dark location for a few weeks to try and encourage additional root development. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

"Sparkler" Cleomes From Seed in Louisiana Q: Please tell me how and when to grow "Sparkler" Cleomes from seed in Louisiana. These are the shorter and bushier Cleomes. Do I plant seeds outdoors in the fall or spring in zone 8b? What month? How much sun and water? Any pest problems? Hardiness Zone: 8b Pam from Baton Rouge, LA A: Pam, You can plant "Sparkler" Cleomes from seed similar to the way you would plant any variety of Cleome. Sow seeds directly in the ground in early spring when temperatures reach 70ºF. Seeds will germinate after about two weeks. Soil should be nutrient-rich and well-drained with a neutral pH. Plant seeds in a location with full sun or light shade, spaced 8 to 12 inches apart. The seeds need light to germinate so just press them lightly into the soil, but don't cover them. Cleomes are somewhat drought tolerant, but will do better if kept watered regularly-especially during dry spells. Plan on fertilizing them every six to eight weeks or work in a slow release fertilizer or plenty of compost when planting. There is no need to pinch Sparklers back as they won't get as tall and leggy as standard-size Cleomes. They are no more (or less) susceptible to pests than other annuals. Ellen Post Feedback: Click Here

Growing Monster Vegetables By Ellen Brown Have you ever wondered how people grow those gigantic vegetables that you see at the county fair? You've seen them-the scale crushing pumpkins that weigh in at 1,000 pounds, the 6 pound carrots and the cabbage heads twice the size of basketballs. Growing these giant beauties isn't as hard as you might think. If you want to impress your neighbors by having the biggest veggies on the block, here are a few tricks that will get you BIG results. View This Article: Click Here

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New Requests

Can I Grow Anemone Indoors? Can I grow anemone in containers as indoor plants? Hardiness Zone: Wider from England Post Feedback: Click Here

Starting Dried Bulbs Does anyone know what's the best way to start my dried elephant ear and canna bulbs? Should I start them in water inside until they re-hydrate? Or do I put them straight in the ground? I've herd that people will soak them in warm water with miracle grow, has anyone tried this? I pulled them out of the closet today and a few of them already have fresh starts on them. Thanks, Hardiness Zone: 6b Delbert from WV Post Feedback: Click Here

Growing Herb Indoors I was wondering if anyone had advice on growing herbs indoors. I was thinking of growing them in the lower half 1/2 of a 2-liter bottle. I would also like to grow aloe. I would also like info on where is the cheapest and best place to get seeds or any other way to start growing these herbs. Which herbs grow best indoors? Thanks for the help. Hardiness Zone: 8a Jeggie from Elberton, GA Post Feedback: Click Here

Container Gardening in Texas I am an experienced gardener, however, I am a recent Texas transplant, and now have very limited space in which to grow things. I would like some recommendations as to things that would grow well in containers, and that would do well with limited eastern light. I am currently growing lettuce and grew tomatoes last summer, but they didn't do as well as I would have liked. I have some ground space that I would like to use, but the location is such that the drainage is really poor, and thus far, any grass seed that has been planted there hasn't grown. I would like to plant something that would cover the bare ground. I am used to growing things in zone 5. Hardiness Zone: 8b SKbeal from Temple, TX Post Feedback: Click Here

Help My Hydrangea I moved into a house with an established garden. It has plants and flowers that I have always wanted; hydrangea, lavender, roses, lemon trees, orange trees, etc. Unfortunately, the hydrangea and roses have not been cared for. The hydrangea has very little leaves and flowers. In the middle it has branches that look dead. I have removed most of the dead branches which pulled out effortlessly, but now the plant has a gap on the inside and the sides are leaning apart from each other. It looks hideous and I don't know what to do. I spoke to the neighbor , she said the hydrangea was so beautiful and full of flowers before. I don't want to lose it. I am looking for advice on how to get it back to it's beauty. Hardiness Zone: 10a Beachers from West Covina, CA Post Feedback: Click Here

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Growing Guides

Growing: Caladium By Ellen Brown Growing Hints: Plant bulbs outside as soon as soil is thoroughly warm. If starting bulbs indoors, they prefer to be heated from the bottom. Removing flowers will direct more energy into leaf growth. Common pests include slugs. Interesting Facts: Caladium plants are also good choices for containers. Today's hybrids are the result of widespread breeding between tropical species. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Chinese Ground Orchid By Ellen Brown Growing Hints: Plant rhizomes 4 inches deep and space them about 6 inches apart. Apply a liquid fertilizer every 3 weeks during growing period, and after flowering let them die back naturally. In the fall, zones 6 and north can leave bulbs in the ground. Cooler zones need to bring bulbs in and store them over winter. Plants can be propagated in the fall or spring by dividing clumps of pseudo-bulbs. Interesting Facts: Chinese ground orchids are native to China, Japan and Taiwan. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Rhubarb By Ellen Brown Care & Maintenance: Apply a light fertilizer in the spring and cover new growth with 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch. Flower stalks should be cut off and removed as they appear throughout the growing season. Watch for signs of wilt and root rot during the season. Mulch plants heavily to prepare them for winter after foliage dies back in the fall. Dig up and divide plants when they start to produce thin stalks. Harvesting & Storage: Rhubarb should not he harvested until the second season after planting and then only for 1 to 2 weeks. Harvesting can be increased to 1 to 2 months by the third season and after that, plants can be harvested as often as you prefer. Select stalks that are thick with well-developed leaves. To harvest, simply twist stalks until they break from the plant or cut them off to the desired length with a knife. Rhubarb leaves are poisonous and should not be used (compost them). Stalks can be blanched by surrounding sprouting plants with an open-ended box about 2' wide and 2' to 3' tall. Blanched stalks will grow longer and be ready a week earlier than usual. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Camassia (Wild Hyacinth) By Ellen Brown Growing Hints: There are several common species of Camassia worthy of planting in your perennial garden. The bulbs of the first, Camassia quamash, were once eaten by Native Americans and are known for their deep blue foliage and grow upright to 16". The second, Camiasia cusickii, have hundreds of lighter blue, star-shaped flowers on each head, but grow taller-up to 30". The third species, Camassia leichltlinii, also grows tall with light blue or white flowers. It combines well with other perennials such as irises or lilies or peonies. Plant all Wild Hyacinth bulbs to a depth of 6 inches spaced 8 inches apart. Most bloom in late summer to early fall and tolerate moister soil conditions than most other bulbs. Interesting Facts: Wild Hyacinths are native to parts of North America and Canada. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Calla Lily By Ellen Brown Growing Hints: Calla Lilies need to be planted deeply for their size. Plant them at a depth of 4 inches, spacing each bulb 12 inches apart. In cooler zones, start bulbs indoors in late winter and transplant them in the spring when danger of frost has passed. Apply a bulb fertilizer monthly during the active growing season. Calla Lillies can also be grown as house plants if placed in a sunny window. Most Calla Lilies need a rest period after flowering, so gradually withhold water until the leaves die back and let plants rest for 2 to 3 months before resuming watering to encourage new growth. Interesting Facts: Calla Lilies are often used in wedding bouquets because their meaning signifies magnificence and beauty. More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Cannas By Ellen Brown Growing Hints: Southern zones can plant bulbs outside in the spring. To give them a head start, zones north of zone 7 should start bulbs indoors 5 weeks before the last frost date. Pot rhizomes in a soil-less mix, pointed end up and barely cover them. Keep them warm (75ºF) and slightly moist until new growth appears. Then move them to a sunnier location and feed every two weeks with a 1/2 strength houseplant fertilizer. Move plants outdoors when danger of frost has passed. Interesting Facts: Cannas can be dug up in cooler zones and stored until the following season. Dig them up after the first light frost and cut the tops back approximately 6 inches. Don't bother cleaning soil off the roots, just set them in damp peat moss and store in a cool (40ºF to 50ºF), dry place. Rhizomes should be checked throughout winter and watered lightly if needed to keep roots from shriveling. More Growing Information: Click Here

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