Troubleshooting the cause of an outlet not working can help define how to repair it. This is a guide about repairing an electric outlet.
I am trying to cut the power to an outlet and tried turning off by elimination each 15/20 amp circuit and the power remains on. Any ideas?
If you only have one electrical panel (could you have a subpanel feeding this outlet?) and you have tried killing power on each circuit (I assume you checked the single pole breakers), and you are not generating electricity, then my guess is that a 240 volt circuit is feeding this outlet.
Another question is how did you check the circuit? A plug in tester is good, but even simpler is to have a load, such as a lamp, on the circuit. A digital multimeter will sometimes indicate voltage when no load is present.
Each leg of a 240 volt breaker carries 120 volt measured to the neutral and 240 volts measured to the other leg. It is possible that your receptacle is fed from a double pole breaker.
I live in a older home (1950s). I recently bumped a plug while moving furniture. I heard it make a couple of popping sounds, but nothing happened. The next morning that outlet and the ones in the next 2 rooms would not work either. The ceiling lights work fine. I turned off the power at the fuse box. I took the cover off the outlet and checked with a meter to make sure it was safe. I took out the outlet and found out one of the wires was broken. I don't plan on using that outlet anymore how can I just bypass it so that the outlets in the other rooms will start back working. Thanks.
I would hire an electrician to fix this.
The receptacle can be removed and a cover plate installed but it would be about the same cost as replacing the receptacle.
The wiring broke free on its own so it is probable that it has experienced some heat damage from a loose connection that needs to be assessed.
Once the wire insulation has been repaired (I like heat shrink tubing for this) the wire can be reconnected and made to work.
Typically, and per code, black is hot and white is neutral. Connecting the blacks together and then connecting the whites together should energize the other receptacles. BUT - things are not always done correctly and the assumption that black is hot and white is neutral can cause trouble. This is why I would call an electrician.
Why won't the breaker trip, but if you play with the plug it starts working again?
The breaker would only trip if too much current is being pulled (demand exceeds supply). If you have a loose outlet, where the plug falls out or you have to wiggle the plug to get it to work, it wouldn't necessarily trip the breaker, because it's not connecting/pulling electricity at all. The solution is to replace the old outlet. If the issue is a particular appliances plug and wiggling the cord fixes the problem, than the cord is probably going. If the problem is a particular plug and not the cord, sometimes you can widen the prongs so it's a better fit in the outlet.
My phone charger was plugged into the wall outlet. It stopped charging and made a popping sound. I moved the cord a little and there was a spark. I was scared to unplug it, but I did eventually. My cord is now plugged into my laptop and is working. What is the problem?
You have a hot to ground short. From what you described it may be in your phone charger transformer. This could easily cause a fire and should be corrected by a professional.
If you are certain that the sparks came from the phone adapter, get rid of that phone adapter. If the sparks may have originated in the receptacle, get an electrician to service and replace the receptacle.
We have two power outlets in the kitchen that stopped working. Our home is older so the outlet doesn't have a "reset" or GIF. We have an old fuse box, not breakers. We had work done in the kitchen and we noticed the problem happened after the granite installers installed the granite back splash. The outlets they cut around stopped working.
I did hear power tools being used so I am wondering if they blew the fuse. We tried the, un-screw of the fuses and put everything back in, fix. We do have some fuses that seem to be under a glass cage that we could not really open or are scared to. We are not sure if we are to open this part or not. Anyway any suggestions or explanations to get this fixed would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to avoid making a service call if it is an easy fix I may be overlooking.
I think if you can afford granite counter tops, you can afford a qualified electrician for this job. You maybe should think about upgrading your electrical since you are renovating.
For about two months now, in the master bedroom, 2 of the outlets which have the TV and cable box connected and also the light in the room go out and come back on. I have checked the breaker and it doesn't trip. One of the times that it went off, it stayed off for a few minutes. When went off I moved the light switch to turn it off and the lights came on. I switched the light fixture for a new one and it's still doing it. Besides checking the other outlets for loose wires any suggesting on what to check?
This sounds dangerous to me. I would call an electrician to come check this out.
I have had a non working plug in our bathroom with a working light for years. We recently had a lot of work done, including rewiring the kitchen. The contractor replaced the fixture in the bathroom during the renovation. The new fixture works like the old one. Light works, plug does not. Any idea what the issue is, and is it an easy fix? Thank you in advance.
Did you explain to the electrician you hired that the plug in had never worked. If so, and he didn`t fix it, call him back and ask him to fix it, and I would not expect him to charge you for this. If not, call him back and explain what is going on, and see if he can remedy the problem.
I have no power to one kitchen power outlet and one living room outlet. The circuit breaker appears good.
Call an electrician. They go to school and train to be able to solve problems like this.
We have a plug in our kitchen that is a switch for our undercabinet lighting on one side and on the other side is a plug. The plug has suddenly stopped working, even though the light switch is working fine. The breaker is also working fine. We have changed the plug, but it is still not working. Any ideas as to what else we could try?
An electrician could fix this for you.
You need a meter to detect if voltage is present at the receptacle and if the neutral is connected by measuring resistance to ground. There exists a plug in device with three lights that will give you that information.
Another thing to consider is that kitchen receptacles are GFCI protected. It may be that the standard receptacle you replaced is fed from a GFCI receptacle which is tripped. The lighting would not be on the GFCI receptacle. Check to see if any other receptacles are dead, if so I would lean toward a tripped GFCI somewhere.
My wife pluged a Vicks vapor machine into our bedroom outlet. The outlet stopped working. The the vapor machine and my ceiling fan with lights also quit working. I put in a new plug and checked the wiring in the fan. All the wires are connected and there are no burn spots on the wires. How do I fix it?
Beginning with 1999, Arc Fault Circuit Protection was required for bedrooms in dwelling units. Nuisance trips are common with this type of protection and vaporizers. The original protection was at the breaker - the breaker would trip. More recently, the protection could be in the receptacle much like a GFCI receptacle, and daisy chained.
It is possible that if you have AFCI protection at the receptacle (newer home or remodel) , that another receptacle, which provides the protection, has a tripped pushbutton that needs reset.
It would be bad practice to put the light on this circuit, but it could have been done.
We live in an apartment building built in the 1970s, maybe 80s. My daughter had an inexpensive fan in her room that would slow down and then it just stopped working.
I bought a new fan and it worked okay and then it did the same thing. I would turn it on and it wouldn't work, then it sounded like something gave it gas, and it would slowly start to propel.
Last night it worked and then stopped. I jiggled the cord, unplugged the light, and the fan, and it worked then stopped. So afraid a fire or a weird wire is the culprit I moved to a different outlet and it worked fine. How do I know what is going on with the outlet, and are we in danger? Is it just the voltage to that one outlet?
The landlord is a super pain to deal with.
This is probably one for an electrician to handle since they have the meters and test equipment necessary to test the voltage at your receptacle.
It is possible you have a loose connection that when heated with current flow, opens or better closes the circuit.
Or it is possible that this receptacle is on a shared neutral in which the neutral is not making it back to the panel. If this were the case, the speed of your fan and even whether it was working would depend on other electrical loads being on.