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The Happy Garden Newsletter - February 23, 2006

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Date: 02/23/2006 Topic: Newsletter Archives > Happy Garden Newsletter  
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Volume 1, Number 5, February 23, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com

Hello,

Another good newsletter, hope you enjoy it!

Thanks for reading,

Susan

Submit Your Gardening Tips:
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Today's newsletter contains:

Today's Photos:

Today's Tips and Articles:

New Requests:

Growing Guides:

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Today's Photos

Take Pictures of Plants for Seed Exchanges

Some of the garden pictures that I have been taking, I send with the flower seeds for the seed exchange. It gives the people getting them an idea what they will look like. Garden hugs, Vi

Flowers for Seed Exchange

Flowers for Seed Exchange

Flowers for Seed Exchange

Flowers for Seed Exchange

By Great Granny Vi from Moorpark, CA

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Today's Tips and Articles

Building a Compost Pile

Q: I currently have a pile of compost and I would like to speed things up a bit by building a compost "system". What's a good composting strategy and what should I build? Any links, tips or ideas would be appreciated.

Deb in MI

Q: Does anyone have or know where I can get blueprints for making one's home composter? The store ones are very expensive.

Ralphed

A: Deb and Ralphed,

Woven wire animal fencing (like chicken wire), snow fencing, cement blocks, bricks or scrap lumber can all be used to enclose a compost pile.

The enclosure should measure at least 3' x 3' x 3' for efficient composting. For square shaped enclosure may need supports if you're using wire mesh fencing. You can use metal fence posts to anchor the corners or build 4 simple "picture frames" from 2 x 4s to attach the mesh fencing to. Hinge the frames together with door hinges and make a square box. It's not necessary to enclose the bottom.

A small round enclosure made of snow fence will need little or no support. If you use bricks or concrete blocks to build an enclosure, there is no need to use mortar, but you will need to leave enough space between the blocks to allow for adequate air movement.

If you use lumber for any part of the enclosure, you can expect to replace it every few years as decay sets in. Treated lumber may last longer, but it can also leech harmful chemicals into the soil and compost.

Still another idea is to use a 55-gallon barrel (drum) with a hinged lid. You'll need to drill or hammer several rows of _ inch air holes in the sides and bottom. The barrel should sit on concrete blocks to allow for air circulation.

For maximum efficiency, the compost pile needs to consist of the right carbon/nitrogen (brown to green) ratio (between 25:1 to 30:1). If your bin is not completely enclosed on the bottom, use the following recipe:

Bottom Layer (directly on soil): 2-3 inches of chopped brush

Second Layer (browns): 6 to 8 inch layer of leaves, straw, hay, sawdust or other brown.

Third Layer (greens): Add a layer of vegetable waste, grass clippings, etc.

Final Layer: Add a handful of commercial fertilizer or a 2 to 3 inch layer of manure. Finish with a couple of shovelfulls of soil. Soil contains the microorganisms necessary to get the process started.

As you build the pile, water each layer until it's damp (like a wrung out sponge). Continue to add layers as you accumulate them, adding a thin layer of soil to the top of green layers and making sure the whole pile stays moist. Turn the pile with a shovel every few weeks to add air to the pile.

Ellen Brown

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How can I grow herbs with low light in my apartment?

Q: I live on the sixth floor of an apartment building. My apartment is a studio and I have two windows side by side with one having a window air conditioner in it. I want to grow fresh herbs but my sunlight during the day doesn't hit my side of the building or my studio apt. very well until around 2 pm and not for long. Is there anyway I can grow herbs in my apartment? I also want to have house plants but haven't bought any because I'm not sure what kind to buy. I don't want to waste money by going out and buying some and having them die because I bought the wrong kind. Does anyone have some ideas for me?

Thank you.

sparkingbrowneys

A: sparkingbrowneys,

In the case of herbs, besides using grow lights, which most studio apartments don't have space for, your best bet may be to try herbs that are suitable for shade. Most herbs need full sun for best growth, but a few will grow in partial shade, although their vigor will be compromised. You could try angelica, sweet woodruff, sweet flag, goldenseal, sweet cicely, lungwort, lady's mantle, mint and bee balm all tolerate partial shade. Unfortunately, the culinary properties of these herbs are limited.

There are several houseplants that tolerate low light. Here are some ideas: Arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), Cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema commutatum), Corn plant (Dracaena frangrans 'Massangeana'), Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Grape ivy (Cissus rhombifolia), Heart-leaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japoncia), Japanese holly fern (Cyrtomium falcatum), Kangaroo vine (Cissus antarctica), Parlor pine (Chamaedorea elegans), Peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii), Snake plant (Sanservieria trifasciata), Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Table fern (Pteris cretica).

Ellen Brown

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Calcium for Tomato Plants

When planting tomatoes add some dry milk into the planting hole to add calcium and prevent blossom end rot.

You can also add three calcium tablets (people kind) around the base of the tomato plants to add calcium and prevent blossom end rot.

By Dorie Crews from Algoma, WI

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Getting Rid of Bugs on House Plants

To get rid of any kind of bugs on house plants use regular dish soap and warm water. Spray on leaves and the top of soil 1-3 times per week and you will be bug free. It also leaves the foliage looking dust free and happy! For really pesky bugs use warm water and a pinch or 2 of tobacco that you let sit in the sun for 2 weeks in a pop bottle with lid. Apply in regular spray bottle and bam gone!

By Stardaze from Buffalo NY

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Inexpensive Raised Beds

Q: I am planning on making some raised beds in my garden this summer. Does anyone have any tips or can anyone point me in the direction of some plans to do this inexpensively?

Al

A: Al,

There are several inexpensive materials you can use to construct raised beds, among them, 4" x 8' landscape timbers or 2" x 12" boards. Avoid wood that has been treated. Untreated hardwoods like redwood, cypress or cedar will last longer than most other woods, but without the worries of chemical leeching. Concrete blocks, plastic landscaping edging, corrugated sheet metal or stones work well, too. If you live near a rural area, you can offer to "rock pick" an area of a farmer's field before it's planted. Most farmers will be more than happy to have the help.

Also keep in mind that beds at a height of 3 ft will be both wheel chair accessible, and accessible when standing. For an easy reach from all sides, keep the beds no more than 6 feet across (most people have about a 3 foot reach) or keep a walkway in the center.

Ellen Brown

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Trimming Browned Leaves

Use shape scissors to cut off the brown part of the leaves on your potted plants. If the leaves are pointed, just follow the shape, cut into the closest green on the leaves. Wash the scissors in bleach and then soapy water, rinse and dry after using on each plant. That is to be sure not to contaminate the other plants if there is a disease present.

By Great Granny Vi from Moorpark, Ca.

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Making Your Own Maple Syrup
By Ellen Brown

The freezing and thawing temperatures of late February and early March signal the start of maple syrup season. Although historians disagree on who was first to tap the tree, the basic recipe for gathering and producing maple syrup has stayed essentially the same for over a thousand years. If you have at least one good size sugar maple and the time and patience necessary to process the sap, here is all you need to know to set up your own sugar shack.

View This Article: Click Here

How to Keep Branches from Growing Back

Q: I need to know how to keep branches from growing back after I trim them.

Maurice

A: Maurice,

I'm going to assume you're talking about pruning trees. When trimming a tree branch that you don't want to grow back, you need to cut the branch back to either another main branch or to the tree's trunk. Pruning should be done just outside the branch collar-the swollen, thick area at the base of each branch. Avoid injuring this area, as it is critical to healing the pruning wound.

Never leave a stub. New branches will grow back from around the edges. If you are worried about pests or disease, paint pruning wounds with tree salve (available at garden centers), tar or latex paint. For useful diagrams on making correct pruning cuts, visit the "tree care tips" section at the National Arbor Foundation's website. www.arborday.org

Ellen Brown

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How To Cure A New Pot

Always cure a new terra cotta pot before planting in it. Otherwise, the pot's sides will draw moisture out of the potting soil and possibly even the plant's root ball. Dry clay wicks water away from the soil and can dry out plant roots.

To cure a clay pot, you need to fully submerge the pot in a bucket of water. You will hear a hissing noise; it's the tiny air pockets within the clay filling with water. When the hissing stops, the pot is ready to go. You can waterproof the sides of a pot by spraying the outside with Scotch-guard. It will take 2 or 3 coats.

By Rhonda Watson from Reedley, CA

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When to Harvest Your Vegetables
By Ellen Brown

You're growing your own vegetables and you can't wait to pick them. Well, you probably need to wait. But for how long? When will that tomato be ready? How about the cucumbers? How can you tell when carrots are ready to be harvested? How exactly do you pick leaf lettuce?

View This Article: Click Here

To Clean Green Plants

Use a piece of soft cloth with a small amount of mayonnaise. Carefully wipe off the dust. Follow with another clean cloth to remove the mayonnaise. Your plants will shine and be able to breathe.

By Great Granny Vi from Moorpark, Ca.

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What are the Benefits of Seaweed for Farmers?

Q: I am employed by a local Maritime Council and our coastline has recently been hit by large deposits of Kelp like seaweed, getting on for nearly 2000 cubic meters. Can anyone explain to me the benefits that seaweed may have for local farmers if we are able to deliver it to them?

Steve, Dorset, UK

A: Steve,

There are many agricultural and garden applications for seaweed. It aids in seed germination, assists in nutrient uptake, helps plants resists insects, disease and frost; it aids in root development, conditions soil and acts as a fertilizer.

In addition to the horticultural applications, studies have shown that adding seaweed to livestock feed improves fertility rates, aids in gestation and birthing and reduces lameness.

Because I'm not familiar with the "shelf-life" of seaweed after it has been deposited on shore, I would recommend contacting Arramara Teoranta, a company in Ireland that processes seaweed for more information. You can visit them on the web here: www.arramara.ie

Ellen Brown

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How to Water Potted Plants and Dish Gardens

Put the pot/plant and all in a larger bucket or pan, slowly fill it with tepid water. If the plant is very dry it will be light and you will have to hold it down in the water. Let the water wash over the soil in the pot at least 2 - 3 inches above the soil. Let sit over night or at least 2-3 hours. Drain the next morning and do this once a month or when the soil is dry between 2-3 inches deep.

Putting water in the top of the plant and seeing it come running out of the bottom is NOT watering the plant.They need to soak to get the roots wet. You can do the same for dish gardens but you can lift them out of the water and tilt and drain in 1-2 hours. DO NOT let the plants sit in water all the time. The roots will rot!

By Great Granny Vi from Moorpark, Ca.

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Yellow Foamy Matter in My Flower Beds

Q: Something/someone has deposited a yellow foamy matter in my flower beds, and on the side of my garage foundation. Is this animal urine?

JK

A:Jk,

It definitely sounds like slime mold. This mold typically grows on newly ground or chipped wood mulch and generally develops when moisture is plentiful. It won't harm anything and it should disappear on its own when it dries out. There is not much you can do about it other than breaking up and removing any unsightly clumps and backing off on your watering. If it continues to appear despite drier conditions, it may be a signal that your soil isn't draining well. You may need to amend the soil in this area, or watch your watering more carefully. Freshly ground or chipped wood mulch should be allowed to cure for a year before applying.

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Contest!

Submit Your Tips and Photos!

Tip Contest!

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Photo Contest!

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Contest ends February 28, 2006

New Requests

Recycled Container Flower Pots

I am a Girl Scout Daisy leader (Kindergartners). We will be studying how to "Use Resources Wisely" very soon. For the craft portion of that meeting, I was hoping to make a flower pot by recycling some kind of a container (a milk carton, a soda bottle, a detergent bottle etc., not sure what to use). The girls could then decorate it using scrap pieces of construction paper, old buttons, bottle caps, etc. Then, for our "Make the World a Better Place" meeting, we could put potting soil and a plant or flower in them and deliver them to a convalescent home.

Does anyone know what recycled container I could use to create the pot?

Mergie from Hartford, CT

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Growing Guides

Growing: Iceland Poppy
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Scatter seeds in late spring or early summer. Seeds should be broadcast thinly. Because the seeds are so tiny (200,000 = 1 ounce), mixing them with sand will help them scatter more evenly. Once planted, they prefer to be left undisturbed. Eventually they will spread and can be divided (just as new leaves appear) every 4 to 5 years.
Interesting Facts: Despite being true perennials, Iceland Poppies are usually grown as annuals or biennials. To use them as cut flowers, sear off stems with a lit match or lighter and place them in very warm water.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Larkspur
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Sow seeds directly in garden in the spring. Sow them in the location you want them to grow as Larkspurs do not like to be transplanted. Plants should be spaced about 6 to 8 inches apart. Water deeply to encourage root development, but be sure the roots do not stand in water or they will be at risk for root rot. To use as cut flowers, scald ends in hot water before soaking in cool water.
Interesting Facts: Larkspurs are related to delphiniums except they only grow to a height of 20 to 28 inches. They make good substitutes for gardeners wanting the spiky look of the delphinium, but without all the extra staking care required.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Impatiens
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Most often bought as transplants, but seeds can be started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before last frost date. Seeds need light to germinate so press them into seed starting mix but do not cover them. Cuttings can also be rooted in soil or water, over-wintered in a warm bright location and transplanted in the spring.
Interesting Facts: Impatiens can get tall and spindly in summer heat, especially in warmer zones. To avoid this, choose compact varieties like the Super Elfin Series or Impulse Series Impatiens.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Floss Flower
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Floss flowers can be somewhat difficult to start from seed, so buying seedlings is recommended. Plant in early spring after the danger of frost has passed. Space dwarf varieties from 4 to 6 inches apart and taller varieties from 10 to 20 inches apart. Soil should be kept moist (not wet) throughout growing season. Pinch seedlings back to encourage more vigorous growth later on.
Interesting Facts: In some regions, Floss flowers can become invasive from reseeding. To avoid this, keep spent flower heads trimmed.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis)
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Plant tubers 3 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in the fall for spring flowers. Tubers do not like to be dry and can be soaked overnight before planting for a faster start. Shriveled tubers can be re-hydrated by placing them in moist sand or peat moss for a couple of days before planting. Plant in large masses for the greatest show of color. Divide tubers when dormant.
Interesting Facts: A member of the buttercup family, the Winter Aconite is native to Europe and is one of the first flowers to appear in the spring-sometimes as early as January.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Flowering Flax
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Sow seeds directly outdoors in fall or in early spring as soon as soil is workable. They should be spaced so plants grow approximately 8 to 10 inches apart. Flax does not transplant well so plant seeds where you want them to grow. Plants flower for only 3 to 4 weeks so interval planting is necessary for continuous flowers.
Interesting Facts: Flax is native to North America and the Common flax variety is used to make linen and linseed oils. It is rarely thought of for use as an annual in flower gardens, despite its tall attractive appearance and blue or white flowers.

More Growing Information: Click Here

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