Happy Garden Newsletter - November 16, 2006

Free Photo Organizer From Google

"Picasa is software that helps you instantly find, edit and share all the pictures on your PC. Every time you open Picasa, it automatically locates all your pictures (even ones you forgot you had) and sorts them into visual albums organized by date with folder names you will recognize. You can drag and drop to arrange your albums and make labels to create new groups. Picasa makes sure your pictures are always organized."

More Information:
http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf61219677.tip.html

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Brenda from Greenville, AL

Answer:

I can't make out the picture you attached, but I can point you to a wonderful resource for help in identifying trees in your area. Auburn University has a web site with images of tree species common to Alabama and the southeast. The site includes several photos and descriptions for each species. To search for yours, scroll down the left hand side of the page and click on the tree names. Make sure you check out all of the listings represented (not just cedar), because there are many other evergreens with similar leaf structures and growth habits as the one you described. A tree that is not listed on the site that you may want to search for is the European Larch (also called Tamarack). This tree is in the pine family, but it is not an evergreen. In the fall, the needles turn a lovely golden color before dropping. The needles are feathery not lacy. If the tree you saw was a true evergreen, the yellow-tinged leaves may be pretty, but they are more than likely a symptom of some type of stress.

Here's the link:
http://www.sfws.auburn.edu/samuelson/dendrology/index.html

Post Feedback: Click Here

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Candace from Charlotte, MI

Answer:

Does this look like your bug?

Source: University of Illinois

If so, you're dealing with Squash bugs. In both the adult and the nymph form, these insects suck the plant's juices, which causes the leaves and young shoots to turn black and die. The symptoms are similar to those of a wilt disease, and if infestations are severe the plant will fail to produce or die altogether.

You can protect your plants by covering them with floating row covers (you'll need to hand pollinate) or by setting out boards or shingles on the ground near your plants in early summer to trap and remove the bugs by hand.

Another strategy is to plant disease resistant plants that are bred to better withstand attacks. Some resistant cultivars include 'Butternut', 'Early Golden Bush Scallop', 'Early Summer Crookneck', 'Table Queen', 'Improved Green Hubbard', and 'Royal Acorn' among others. Ask you county extension agent for resistant varieties in your area.

Ellen

Post Feedback: Click Here

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 6a

L from ILL

Answer:

Hibiscus are relatively problem-free plants, so without a picture it's hard for me to say exactly what's invading your hibiscus. The most common invaders include aphids and Japanese beetles. Symptoms of an aphid infestation include yellowish distorted leaves, which are often covered by a clear sticky substance called honeydew. Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied insects that come in a variety of colors. They are leaf "suckers" and although they won't usually end up killing a plant, they can stunt its growth and attract black sooty mold.

Japanese beetles are leaf "chewers." They will skeletonize leaves when feeding on them. They are easy to identify with their metallic blue or green armor and coppery wing covers.

At times hibiscus can also become infested with spider mites or white flies. The webbing you describe sounds like spider mites, which do not look like beetles, but rather tiny, spider-like creatures with eight legs and no antennae, thoraxes or wings. They are usually reddish-brown or pale in color.

Because none of these sounds exactly like what you're describing, perhaps you have a combination of bugs. The type of damage may also help you identify them. I would suggest searching this website (scroll down to bug info on the homepage) http://www.whatsthatbug.com/ or even better, checking out the University of Illinois Extension Integrated Pest Management pages at http://www.ipm.uiuc.edu/insects.html

Ellen

Post Feedback: Click Here

If a statement or idea is repeated or passed on long enough, eventually it will be taken as fact. This is true, even when there is little evidence or proof to support the idea. Gardening lore is no exception to this phenomena, and several misconceptions seem as persistent as some perennial weeds. Here are the surprising facts behind 10 common gardening myths.

Read This Article: Click Here

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 9a

Adie from Houston, TX

Answer:

The best way to keep this shrub growing full and strong is to maintain optimum growing requirements and a yearly shearing to encourage bushy growth. Whether you grow yours in a bed or container, these heat-loving shrubs will give you the best show when planted in fertile, well-drained soil and given full sun. If you grow your Gold Star in a bed, feed it every 4 to 6 weeks with a 1/2 strength water-soluble fertilizer (20-20-20). Container grown plants should be fed more often, because nutrients tend to wash away more quickly with frequent watering. Gold Star Esperanza starts blooming in the spring, and if you continue to remove the spent flowers and seedpods they will continue on until the first frost. Because these shrubs can grow to heights of 10-12 feet and get rather straggly, many gardeners will head them back in the spring to encourage bushier growth and then keep them trimmed throughout the growing season in order to maintain their shape and keep them to a height of 5-6 ft.

Ellen

Post Feedback: Click Here

This is my first apple tree. This is the first fruit that it is growing. I don't know if it is one apple or many together? Any ideas?

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Christine from Sanremo, Italy

Answer:

Wow! What an interesting picture. A fruit grower or arborist can tell you for sure, but I'm going to take an educated guess as to what could be happening. Apple blossoms form in clusters of five (or on rare occasions, six). The first, and usually the largest bloom to open is called the king bloom. If all goes according to nature's plan, the king bloom sets fruit first, which suppresses the setting fruit of the other blossoms. If all five blooms set, you end up with 5 smaller fruits, the other four blooms are usually removed in order to avoid this. Perhaps in your case, all five blooms set fruit and for whatever reason (maybe exemplary growing conditions) they all received enough nutrients to grow a decent size. As they continued to grow, the cluster of apples then developed a distorted appearance for lack of having any elbow room. My guess is that this is the only cluster on the tree that looks like this.

Still another possibility is that early in the fruit's development your area experienced a sudden short burst of chilly temperatures-maybe a slight frost. When this happens and the skin of the fruit is damaged, apples (and also pears) sometimes develop what is known as frost rings. This doesn't kill the blossom or the fruitlet, but it can cause tough callus-like patches on the skin that constrict and distort the fruit as it grows. In either case, the apples are still safe for consumption.

Ellen

Post Feedback: Click Here

Cut old metal window screens into 1x1 foot squares. Then cut a hole in the center of the square and put it on the ground around the plant. Slugs don't like to slither across window screens.

Post your ideas below.

Post Feedback: Click Here

Question:

Darrell from Sayre, Oklahoma

Answer:

Controlling skunks isn't easy, but there are some things you can do. First of all, try to determine what they are doing there. Why your yard? Are they rummaging for food in the compost pile, digging up grubs in the lawn?

One common reason skunks show up in our yards is to feast on grubs. If you're noticing a lot of little holes in your lawn, you may have a decent grub population, in which case the skunks will be only too happy to assist you in controlling them. Grubs are the larvae stage of many types of beetles, and there are several organic methods for controlling them, including handpicking adult beetles or applying milky spore to your lawn.

Skunks will also eat unprotected garbage, small rodents, eggs, pet food, nuts and berries, fruit and bird food. They are also attracted to easily accessible sources of water and find the crawl spaces under deck and foundations appealing places to make their dens. Take a look around outdoors. Are there any berries growing close to the ground, bird feeder spills, brush/wood piles that could harbor insects or pet dishes being left out overnight, etc.? If so, try to reduce or eliminate these attractants. Also, seal up any openings around foundations or decks that are greater than 4 inches around.

No one method of "repelling" skunks seems to work effectively for long, so you may need to employ several strategies for long term control. If skunks are frequenting a specific area, you may be able to erect a small fence or barrier to keep them out. They are poor jumpers/climbers, but great at digging. The fence will need to go at least 12-18 inches below the ground.

Because these animals are nocturnal, you might also try installing a motion sensitive floodlight. A sprinkler system set off by motion is another idea. There are several commercial repellants (usually urine-based) that are said to be effective. These often need to be reapplied after it rains, but some people swear by them. Ask around at feed stores or garden supply centers.

As a last resort, skunks can be live-trapped and "escorted" out of town. This requires a very small cage (to prevent tail lifting) and extremely careful handling (to prevent bites to you and injury to the animal). I would enlist the help of a wildlife expert at the Department of Natural Resources if going this route.

Ellen

Post Feedback: Click Here

Aurea. Purpurea. Triangularis. Variegata. For some gardeners, the thought of trying to understand (let alone pronounce) complex botanical terms can seem intimidating. And while you certainly don't need to understand botany or Latin to grow a successful garden, a basic understanding of the language of horticulture can deepen your appreciation for the plants you grow and be downright handy when your shopping for plants. Here's a brief and very simple explanation of the how's and why's behind 5 common botanical terms.

Read This Article: Click Here

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 10a

Edwin from Ventura, CA

Answer:

You're zucchini blossoms could be falling prey to a number of animals like rats, rabbits, raccoons, ground hogs, skunks or deer. And if you've ever eaten zucchini blossoms yourself, it's understandable-they're wonderful! Once critters get a taste for this delicious buffet, they will keep coming back for more. So unless you're willing to set up a commando post in your backyard and sit up all night wearing a pair of night vision goggles (although to me this does sound fun), you're going to have to cover your zucchini plants if you hope to have anything left at harvest time. Some inexpensive row covers should do the trick. They let in light and do a pretty good job of discouraging most animals. Row covers also keep out the bees, so plan on pollinating your plants by hand. Depending on the size of your zucchini patch, you could also fashion a cage made out of chicken wire and secure it to the ground with stakes. This will still allow the bees in and save you the work of hand pollinating.

Ellen

Post Feedback: Click Here

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 3a

Ragteller from Tofield, Alberta Canada

Answer:

This is a lovely looking squash, and despite the fact that it looks familiar, I can't seem to find any good sources for identifying it. It looks like it has a tougher, slightly "warted" outer skin, which makes me think it's either an edible ornamental gourd or some type of winter squash (all squash are gourds, but not all gourds are squash). Around here, I've seen these in large bins at grocery stores and home improvement stores. Usually they are just lumped in with hundreds of others and labeled "ornamental" of "fancy." Did you grow this or purchase it? It appears to be two-toned rather than transitioning to a solid color. I would certainly guess that it's a hybrid of some type, but it might be fun to save the seeds for planting next year just to see what you come up with. It also looks like a wonderful size for baking stuffed and serving at holiday meals. In any case, if you are able to eventually figure it out, please post the answer here. You have certainly sparked my curiosity and I would love to try to grow some of my own!

Ellen

Post Feedback: Click Here

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 11

Hav from Spain

Answer:

This type of fruit splitting is thought to happen as a result of unstable environmental conditions that cause stress to the tree. This is usually due to sudden swings in temperature, rapid increases in moisture or notable changes in the relative humidity. If these sudden fluctuations happen during the initial stages of the fruit's development, the inner fruit and the outer rind of the orange may end up growing at slightly different rates or the orange may develop a weak rind. Either will eventually cause the fruit to split sometime down the road as the fruit continues to mature and grow in size. Although there isn't a lot you can do to control the weather (e.g. preventing cool spring weather from suddenly turning hot), you can avoid extreme fluctuations in moisture levels by keeping the soil around your tree consistently watered. Citrus trees do not like to stand in water, so hopefully yours is growing in well-drained soil. Depending on the rainfall in your area, try to water it at least every other week during the growing season-more during extreme heat. To prevent overwatering, let the top 5-6 inches of soil dry out between each watering. The key here is consistency. Wilted or curling leaves are an indicator that moisture levels are either too high or too low. Certain types of orange trees are known to be more resistant to fruit splitting. If you plant orange trees in the future, contact local growers to find out which of these are available in your area.

Good Luck!
Ellen

Post Feedback: Click Here

• Tip Contest
  Submit a Tip or Recipe!

• Photo Contest
  Submit a tip with photo!

The above contests are weekly. We pick 2 tip winners and 1 photo winner at the end of each week. Each winner will win $25!

My Frugal Life
Submit a My Frugal Life Essay! New Contest Started!
• Frugal Travel Guides
  Submit a Frugal Travel Guide

How does one get assistance on exotic trips for elderly on walker,
i.e. african safari, machu picchu?

Lex from Hollywood, FL

Post Feedback: Click Here

Is their a plant that repels all bugs?

Lynne from London, KY

Post Feedback: Click Here

I recently replanted azaleas that are approximately 2 years old. Should I leave the leaves that have collected around them for extra insulation or remove them all and just mulch them real good?

Hardiness Zone: 5b

MinDee from Missouri

Post Feedback: Click Here

I live in Indonesia. Any tips for growing roses in a tropical climate?

Thank you,
Joice from Palembang, Indonesia

Post Feedback: Click Here

I am looking for information about how to grow lilies.

Hardiness Zone: 3a

Bev from Minneapolis

Post Feedback: Click Here

Can you trim back a Fuschia plant? I want to bring it in for the winter, but would like to cut it back and let it grow back out this winter.

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Peggy from Chillicothe, OH

Post Feedback: Click Here

I need a list of flowering plants, fruit trees and nut trees that grow in Arkansas, near the Mt. Home area. Can I take cuttings of my plants from California? I know Roses, Iris and Day Lilies do well there. Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Great Granny VI

Post Feedback: Click Here

Hello Ellen,

I Live in zone 6 or so and currently have freesia bulbs I want to plant but I want to grow them indoors. Do these bulbs need to be cooled for a period of time before planting? If so, for how long?

I also have some tulip bulbs that are starting to sprout that are not yet planted. I'd also like to grow them indoors. I understand there's a cooling period for these. If I can't put them in my fridge, what might my options be?

If I put them in my fridge, I've heard you can't have apples in the fridge. Is this true? And finally, for what period of time would they have to be in my fridge or is it too late because they're beginning to sprout?

Thanks for any help you can provide from the one who loves only fragrant flowers!

Fragrance Lover

Post Feedback: Click Here

Get "The Complete Budget and Bill Organizer" Free

When you subscribe to my newsletter "The Budget Stretcher" you will receive this easy guide to effectively organizing and managing your money absolutely free. Get all of the Budget Forms and Worksheets you need to make it work for you. Click the below link to learn more:

More Information:
http://www.homemoneyhelp.com/confirmsubs.html

Seed Swap!
Swap seeds with other ThriftyFun.com users:

Tip Contest!
Submit a tip and enter our contest.

Submit a Request
Frugal solutions to everyday problems.

To Subscribe or Unsubscribe