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The Happy Garden Newsletter - March 2, 2006

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Date: 03/02/2006  
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Volume 1, Number 6, March 2, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com

Hello,

We have a packed newsletter this week. Lots of interesting advice from Ellen, 6 new growing guides and 10 new requests.

If you have any gardening questions, don't hesitate to ask them here...

Submit a Gardening Request:
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We also could use your favorite gardening tips. You can submit those here...

Submit Your Gardening Tips:
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Last but not least, we would love to see what your garden looks like. You can post pictures of your garden here...

Submit Photos of Your Garden:
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Thanks for reading and happy gardening,

Susan

Today's newsletter contains:

Today's Tips and Articles:

New Requests:

Growing Guides:

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Today's Tips and Articles

Saving Plastic Cups for Seed Starts

When you want to get your seeds started early for the spring planting save the plastic drink cups from the fast food places that use plastic like Taco Bell and White Castle. I saved some for my granddaughter and she said they worked wonderfully and didn't cost her a thing. If they are too tall they are easily cut to the size you want them to be. These cups are great seed starter pots.

By Carol from Huber Heights, OH

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Planting Amaryllis Outdoors

Q: Has anyone planted Amaryllis outdoors? When and how should I plant mine? I've heard of them being put outside but don't know how deep to plant them and if they can be left outside permanently.

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Vicky from Jacksonville, NC

A: Vicky,

Amaryllis is hardy to zone 7b and can be left outdoors year-round as long as it is given adequate mulch in the fall and winter months. Plant new bulbs in the ground in late September or early October and you'll see flowers in the spring. Bulbs should be planted about 1 ft. apart and just deep enough so that the tips (noses) stick above the ground. The soil should be nutrient-rich and well drained. The site should receive plenty of sun with some afternoon shade. Use a low nitrogen fertilizer and make the first fertilizer application as new growth begins, then repeat the application when the flower stalk is 6 to 8 inches tall. Apply a third application immediately after flowering when the spent flower heads and old flower stems have been removed.

You can plant amaryllis left over from the holidays in the spring. Plant bulbs them directly in the ground, pots and all, after first acclimatizing them to the bright outdoor light. Make sure the pots are well drained.

Ellen

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Keeping Dogs from Digging

Q: My newly adopted dogs have made a mockery of the lawn and garden in my back yard. Besides rocks, what can I use that is bug free and safe that will keep them from dragging mud in my house and deter them from digging up my flowers?

Jennieb from Pt. Pleasant, NJ

A: Jennieb,

Congratulations on your new companions! The first thing you need to consider is why your new canines are making a mockery of your lawn? Dogs dig for a variety of reasons. Are they bored? Are they acting out an instinct to dig out prey? Are they feeling confined or not getting enough exercise? Are they seeking out cool places to lie down? Any measures you take are likely to be unsuccessful for long unless you establish the reason driving their behavior. They'll simply channel the digging energy into something else, like chewing-or worse. If you have the space, why not designate an area in the garden just for them to dig up? Dig up a small area and fill it with sand instead of dirt. Locate it as far away from the house as possible and their paws will have plenty of time to unload the sand in your grass before reaching the door to come inside. Reward them for using it by burying their favorite toys and food treats in it.

For areas around flowers, you can lay down chicken wire and clip openings around plants. Cover the wire slightly with soil to hide it. If they have spots they seem to favor over and over, try this recipe:

  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 2 small onions
  • 1 jalapeno pepper
  • 1 tbsp. of cayenne pepper
  • 1 tbsp. of chili powder
  • 1 qt. Of warm water

Mince the garlic, onions and jalapenos and combine them with the other ingredients. Let everything marinate in a container overnight, then sprinkle it over problems areas.

Above all, as their pack leader, make sure you let them know what your expectations are for their behavior.

Ellen

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Stumps on Cleared Acreage

Q: I just had 6 acres clear cut and was paid several thousand for the timber. I plan on using some of that to cover the expense of cleaning up the brush. I plan to make this a field. Here's the problem. Do I leave the stumps to rot or do I pay quite a bit more to have them dug up? Rent a stump grinder? What next?

Kevin

A: Kevin,

Are you going to plant this field with crops? What you will be using it for and how fast you need it should be the determining factor on your next step. Mechanical removal of your stumps, by digging or grinding, will be the fastest, but also the most costly route. You could rent a grinder or contract a tree service. If you contract a tree service, the depth of grinding and extent of clean up you specify will factor into the cost. If the field will be left as turf you'll need the stumps ground down to about 8 inches below the soil surface-up to 24 inches below the surface for planting crops. If the stumps are not too big in diameter and a sufficient amount has been left above the ground for leverage, you might consider having someone come in with a backhoe to dig them out. If you have some time, another option is decomposition. The time it will take depends on the soil conditions and the size of the stump, however, if you cover the stumps with dirt and keep the soil moist, you can cut this time by half. Most commercial products designed for accelerating this process do not speed the process significantly enough to warrant spending the money. If you're going to be planting a crop that gives you some return on the cost, mechanic removal is probably the fastest most cost-effective option. Be sure you consider several bids before deciding on a contractor.

Ellen

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Removing Acorns From Your Lawn

Our oak tree dumps a lot of acorns on the lawn. What is the best way to get them out of the lawn?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Holly from Richardson, TX

A: Hi Holly,

There really isn't any magical solution to getting them out of the lawn. The best way to clean up acorns is simply to rake or vacuum them up. Another option is just to leave them on the ground and the insects and squirrels will soon devour them. Acorns make a good addition to the compost pile. Collect them in a burlap bag and then drive over them a few times with the car before tossing them on the heap. This will help them breakdown faster.

If you've never tried harvesting them for their meat, try it. It might make cleaning them up more tolerable. Acorns are high in fiber, complex carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. They are also relatively low in fat compared to other nuts. The meat of the nut is too bitter to snack on like other nuts, so it is usually processed into meal and used the same way that corn meal is used. Burr, white and swamp oak acorns contain the least amount of tannins.

To harvest, collect only acorns without any visible holes on the shells. Lay them out on a cookie sheet and dry them in the over at 175 degrees from about an hour (stir them to prevent burning). Crack the shells open and remove the meat. The meat should be yellow, not black or moldy. Place the meat in a food processor or run it through a grinder. Place the ground meat in a large bowl and pour hot or boiling water over it. Let it stand for 1 hour and them drain off the murky-colored water (tannins). Continue to do this until the meat loses its bitter flavor and then dry the meat in a food dehydrator or on a cookie sheet in the over on low heat. When the meat is completely dry, grind it into a fine meal using a grain mill or stone. Store the meal in the freezer until you need it.

Ellen

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The Care and Feeding of African Violets
By Ellen Brown

The African violet, one of America's most common houseplants, comes in an immense range of varieties. Although it is not difficult to grow, it does demand constant care and attention. Above all else, that is the secret to successfully growing and maintaining this diverse and beautiful plant.

View This Article: Click Here

Late Winter Pruning
By Ellen Brown

Proper pruning is a good way to help your plants and shrubs stay healthy while preparing them for budding. It's best to prune shrubs that bloom in the summer and fall in the late winter or early spring prior to bud development. Spring or winter bloomers should be cut immediately after flowering has terminated. This means you're never pruning in the summer.

View This Article: Click Here

Organic Lawn Maintenance

Q: Does anyone have organic gardening lawn maintenance listed by month using corn gluten meal, dry molasses, etc.?

Hardiness Zone: 8a
Thanks,

Holly from Richardson, TX

A: Holly,

Sorry, I don't know of any sources for organic lawn maintenance listed by month. According to the Texas Organic Research Center (TORC), there are two optimum times to broadcast corn gluten in North Texas. The first is from February 15 to March 15 if you want to use it as a pre-emergent against weeds like grassburs or crabgrass. The second time from September 15 to October 15 to prevent cooler winter weeds like henbit, dandelions, poa annua, rescue grass, annual blue grass and clover. The corm gluten should be applied at a rate of 15-20 lbs per 1,000 square ft. If you are applying corn gluten as a fertilizer, broadcast it in early March and again in mid September at the same rate.

Dry molasses can be broadcast as a fertilizer during any month of the year. If your lawn is healthy, you only need to apply it once per year. Apply it three times per year until it reaches the point where one application per year is sufficient. Apply it at the same rate as corn gluten (15 to 20 lbs per 1,000 square ft.)

Ellen

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Watering the Garden With Water From Your Washer

Q: Is it possible to water the garden with the water from your washer? Maybe just the rinse water? Mine goes into a holding tub before it goes to the drain, as my plumbing is old and the drains will not take the force of water from the washer. I could use a garden hose to drain the tub into the flower beds. Would this work or would the soap kill the plants? I would not use the water with the bleach! Got any ideas?

Hardiness Zone: 4b

Thanks!
PrairieLady from SD

A: PrairieLady,

Yes, you can use your washer water to water the garden, but keep a few things in mind. If you can rig up a way to use only the water from your rinse, that would be ideal. If you use an eco-friendly detergent, that would also be fine. If these two options are not feasible, avoid detergents (and fabric softeners) with high levels of sodium, bleach or borax. They may harm the soil and your plants. A simple system might consist of an elevated plastic garbage can (about 2' off the ground for gravity) fitted with a hose for the water to flow out of. Fit a screen across the center of the can (inside about midway down) to collect lint (using one on the hose from the washer is sure to clog). Good luck!

Ellen

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Moss on Fruit Trees

Q: I have a pear, apple and plum tree on the property I am renting. They have a lot of moss all over them. is this common (we have wet winters) or should I look into spraying? Any ideas?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Kelly from Willamina, OR

A: Kelly,

Moss and lichens growing on your trees in the Pacific Northwest is not uncommon. They aren't usually harmful to trees, unless of course they become to too heavy-making the braches susceptible to wind damage. Most moss grows on older trees in conditions where the sunlight is diffused. One way to decrease its potential for growth is to allow for more direct sunlight around your fruit trees and pruning to create better air circulation. In regards to removing the moss, don't spray or you may damage the tree. The best way to remove it is also the most labor intensive-by hand. Care needs to be taken not to harm any active growth or new buds, so this is best done in the winter months when the tree is in a dormant state. An alternative to removal by hand is to spray the moss off of the trees with a power washer. This should also be done during the tree's dormant period to prevent damage from the high water pressure. This method isn't suitable to more delicate trees. Hope this helps!

Ellen

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Killing Grass in Rock Ground Cover

Q: Do you know of any homemade weed killing formulas to get rid of small patches of grass growing up through my rock ground cover?

Hardiness Zone: 9a

Sharon K. Palmer From Las Vegas, NV

A: Sharon,

Here is a recipe for homemade weed killer. Spray it directly on small patches of grass growing up through your rock ground cover. You can also use it to kill weeds in gravel walks, between bricks or stones in walkways and paths and on weeds growing between cracks in your driveway or sidewalk. Be careful not to spray it on plants that you want to keep because it doesn't discriminate. Also, don't spray it on bare soil in areas where you intend to plant or garden in the future.

  • 1 tbsp. of ivory dish soap
  • 1 cup of regular table salt
  • 1 gallon of white vinegar

Another variation:

  • 1 tbsp. alcohol (spirits)
  • 1 tbsp. of vinegar
  • 1 tsp. of ivory dish soap
  • 1 qt. of hot water

Mix ingredients well and transfer into a hand-held spray bottle for application.

Ellen

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Growing Sprouts

Q: I do well growing mung beans in a jar and get good bean sprouts, but when I have tried to grow tiny alfalfa and radish seeds in jars and trays I have problems! Either they are hard to rinse, or the radish seeds (in particular) develop a slight but noticeable white mould so they are inedible. Any ideas please?

Browser from UK

A: Dear Browser,

Mung beans are supposed to be harder to grow, so obviously you're doing something right! The key to sprouting alfalfa and radish seeds is frequent rinsing. Try these steps:

1. Cover the bottom of a clean glass jar (mason, peanut butter or mayonnaise jars work well) with seeds (about 2 seeds deep). Don't use too many seeds or you'll have problems.

2. Fill the jar about half full of cool water and let the seeds soak for at least 6 hours (or overnight).

3. After the seeds have soaked, strain off the water using a fine mesh strainer or screen that you can fit over the end of jar so you don't dump out the seeds.

4. Wait another 6 hours or so and fill the jar half full of cool water again. This time pour the water off immediately. You only need to soak the seeds overnight the first time.

5. Continue to rise and drain the sprouts TWICE each day (three times is best). This constant rinsing will prevent the seeds from drying out or from forming mold.

Take out the sprouts when they are ready to eat. For best results, keep new jars sprouting to replace the older ones as you use them.

Ellen

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Contest!

Submit Your Tips and Photos!

Tip Contest!

To enter, visit: http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_contest.ldml

Photo Contest!

To enter, visit: http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_photocontest.ldml

Contests are now weekly. We'll pick 2 tip winners and 1 photo winner at the end of each week.

New Requests

Planting Crocus

I just received a gift of potted Crocus. Of course, I hope to be able to plant these outside, and I am curious as to the best way to do this. The ground is frozen right now obviously. Do I plant them in spring right from the pot or is there some special care I should take?

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Thanks for all help. :)
Leslie from Barrie, Ontario

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Homemade Hummingbird Feeders

I am looking for easy ways to make hummingbird feeders, for myself and for children to make.

Pseres from West Branch, MI

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Moving a Yellow Trumpet Vine

I have a yellow trumpet vine that I would like to move. It is about 10 to 14 years old. Is it possible to move it or should I leave it? It grows really well but I would like to move it away from the house.

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Ruth from Springfield, OR

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Colorful Plants for Containers

I live in North Georgia (zone 7b) and I would like to place 2 large pots (container garden) on either side of our front door with a variety (about 3) of easy to care for, but colorful plants. The front of our house stays in the shade for the better part of the day. Any suggestions on what plants I should use?

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Thanks!
Marnita from Cumming GA

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Planting Daffodils

I just received a gift of potted Daffodils. Of course, I hope to be able to plant these outside, and I am curious as to the best way to do this. The ground is frozen right now obviously. Do I plant them in spring right from the pot or is there some special care I should take?

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Thanks for all help. :)
Leslie from Barrie, Ontario

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Growing Vanilla Beans

I want to grow vanilla beans. How do I start?

Hardiness Zone: 11

Gaines from Juquitiba, SP, Brazil

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Getting Rid of Grass to Start a Garden

I would like to kill the grass in a large area to start a garden. I am looking for a non-toxic recipe. I would like to garden there this year.

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Thank You

Sincerely,
Gwen Wynder from Chesterton, Indiana

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Getting Rid of Oxalis

Our backyard is covered by oxalis, how can I get ride of them? Any homemade weed killer that would work?

Hardiness Zone: 9a

Thank you very much,
Bobby from San Francisco, CA

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Growing Collards

I planted my collards in the Spring of 2005 and cut them back in the Fall of 2005. These plants are still going strong. How many years can collard plants grow? Shall I cut them back to the stem again to keep them growing? Would it do any good?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Thanking you in advance.
Holly from Dallas, TX

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Weeping Cherry Tree Not Flowering

I have weeping cherry tree that is about 6' tall that we transplanted a year ago from one part of the yard to the front yard. It is still alive but has not put out any new buds or flowers since the transplant why? Will the tree return to it's prior condition?

Hardiness Zone: 7a

Susan From New York

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Peace Lilies Not Flowering

I have bought some Peace Lilies. I had read somewhere they can survive on low light and needed watering once a week but have noticed the leaves are turning yellow and not flowering anymore. Any information would really be appreciated. I am hoping I can save them. Could you also tell me if they are poisonous to children and pets?

Thank you,
Ruth from Ontario, Canada

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Growing Guides

Growing: Love-In-A-Mist
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: This plant has a long taproot that makes transplanting somewhat difficult, so in cooler climates, sow seeds outdoors in the spring as soon as soil is workable. Plants will flower approximately 3 month after seeding. In warmer climates, seeds can be sown in the fall for early spring germination. Plants should be spaced at least 6 inches apart for best show and watered deeply during dry spells. Foliage and seedpods will add interest to the garden even after flowers are spent.
Interesting Facts: Love-in-a-Mist has been cultivated for over 400 years and is a relative to the buttercup. The aromatic seeds are used in the Middle East for culinary and medicinal purposes.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Butterfly Bush
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Start indoors from seeds in mid to late winter, purchase small potted plants (they grow fast), or start from semi-hardwood cuttings in early spring or fall. Plants make flowers on new stems so cut them back hard each spring (to the ground in the North and to a foot above ground in the South).
Interesting Facts: For continuous flowers all summer, trim spent flower clusters off just above a set of leaves and plants will send out two new spikes to replace the one you cut off. As they name suggests, the Butterfly Bush is very attractive to butterflies.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Lobelia
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Due to its seed to bloom time (about 2 months), lobelia is often sold as small seedlings already in bloom. These can be transplanted 4 to 6 inches apart after all danger of frost is past. Seeds can also be started indoors from 10 to 12 weeks before last frost date. Seeds are small and should be broadcast on top of fine grade soil and left uncovered. Removing spent flower spikes will encourage plants to produce new growth.
Interesting Facts: Lobelia was first introduced in the wild form over 200 years ago from the Cape of Good Hope region in South Africa. Also known as Indian tobacco, it has historically been smoked as a treatment for respiratory ailments by Native Americans. In the 19th century, American physicians began to prescribe lobelia to induce vomiting in order to detoxify the body. This is how is it also earned the name "puke weed."

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Lavatera
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: In the spring, sow seeds directly in the ground or place seedlings 3 to 4 inches deep at 3-foot intervals. Lavatera are wildflowers and difficult to transplant so they should be planted where you want them to grow. Plants will live one year, flower profusely, and usually die after the first frost. Reseeding is possible on bare ground.
Interesting Facts: A European native, Lavatera is now found in all regions of North America.

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Azaleas (and Rhododendrons)
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Spring and fall are the best times to purchase and plant azalea and rhododendron clumps. If you buy whole balled or burlap wrapped plants, late summer is the best time for planting. You can grow both of these plants from 4 " cuttings taken in late spring and early summer. Dip cuttings in a rooting hormone, insert them into a moist propagating mix and cover them with plastic, making a mini greenhouse supported with bent wire. Keep cuttings moist and out of direct sun until they root (weeks or months). Remove plastic, harden them off and transplant them. The best sites for azaleas and rhododendrons are sites with loose, hummus-rich soil that is evenly moist and has a pH of 4.5 to 6.5. Pruning should be done immediately after flowering. Do not plant near walnut trees.
Interesting Facts: Rhododendrons have 10 or more stamens, bell-shaped flowers, and leaves that are usually evergreen, while azaleas have 5 stamens, funnel-shaped flowers, and deciduous leaves. Gardeners see these as two different plants, but botanists lump them into one genus (group).

More Growing Information: Click Here

Growing: Astilbe
By Ellen Brown

Growing Hints: Purchase a nursery raised pot containing numerous plants and divide them up when you plant them. For the first summer give them extra attention (i.e. lots of water and compost mulch) and you'll have plenty of new plants to divide again in the spring.
Interesting Facts: Deer generally avoid astilbes. They make great companions when planted with Hostas, Lady's Mantle, Wintercreeper, Echinacea, Siberian Irises, Solomon's Seal, Lungwort and Meadow Rue.

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