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Smocking Advice

Any smockers available to lend a hand? I am smocking a high back yoke and need to know if I smock across the back or leave a space (center back) to put in the button placket after the smocking is completed? There is no back seam and the smocking is done directly on skirt section (no insert).

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Also, when should I remove the pleater threads on a bishop I have completed the smocking on? Before or after applying the neck binding? What about the same on the sleeves; before or after sewing the underarm and side seams.

As you can see I am new at this smocking stuff. Embroidery by hand and sew everyday but just learning the smocking - loving every minute of it.

Thanks,
Nelwyn from Bunkie, LA

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May 24, 20060 found this helpful

You may have gotten an answer to your questions by not--or have just on and finished the best you could. When smocking the back of a yoked dress I leave 3 pleats in the middle of the back unsmocked. That gives room to cut and insert a placket. Then I put buttons on the yoke.

As for the pleating threads on the bishop. I remove all but top two rows (I always pleat one row near top and do cable on it with 2 threads to hold pleats in place--this ends up under the bias). I remove those last two just before putting the bias strip on.

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