I have a new weeping cherry and it looks bad. I have water dripping all the time. I discovered red/brown lady like bugs without the black dots that fly and are eating the leaves on new tree. Bug-b-gone didn't seem to make them fly away.
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Stewart from Voorhees, NJ
Answer:
Stewart,
It sounds like you have a severe infestation of aphids. Aphids are tiny soft-bodied insects that come in a variety of colors. Some species have wings, other do not. They are sucking insects that feed on the sap of young leaves. As they feed they excrete a sticky, sugary substance called honeydew. The "water" dripping all of the time on your cherry tree is the honeydew being produced by the feeding aphids. Although aphids will usually not seriously harm healthy established trees, heavy infestations can result in leaves turning yellow and wilting from excessive sap removal. Aphids are also vectors for several harmful plant viruses. Worse than the aphids themselves are the large amounts of honeydew they secrete. Not only does this make a sticky mess on the ground beneath your trees, but honeydew is a magnet for attracting a fungus called sooty mold. The mold accumulates on leaves and branches, causing them to turn black and inhibiting photosynthesis.
The ladybug beetles on your cherry tree are actually your friends in this situation (incidentally, not all ladybug beetles have spots), so don't try to get rid of them. The more ladybug beetles you see the better. They are aphid-eating machines! Adult ladybugs eat aphids whole-as many as 1,000 in one day. Ladybug nymphs also eat aphids when they are in their larvae stage-stabbing them with their mandibles (biting jaws) and sucking out their juices (similar to how aphids suck sap from leaves). Since your tree is young and probably not very tall, try spraying the leaves with a strong jet of water from your garden hose every few days. This will help blast aphids off the leaves. The combination of water and ladybugs should work to solve your problem. If heavy infestations continue to persist, you may want to try applying a summer oil or an insecticidal soap formulated for fruit trees.
When using vinegar as a weed killer, will it kill grass and /or plants such as lambs ear? If so, what do you recommend using to kill the weeds and not the plants or grass? Thanks so much!
Hardiness Zone: 6a
Val from Terre Haute, IN
Answer:
Val,
Vinegar is non-selective, meaning it will kill anything it comes into contact with. This is usually limited to the above ground growth on a plant, which is why repeated applications are often necessary to completely kill weeds. How much damage a "desirable" plant sustains from contact with vinegar depends entirely on the amount of its exposure to it. The reason using vinegar is so popular is because it's inexpensive. It also doesn't have any permanent negative long-term effects on the soil, although it does alter its ability to support growth in the short term. The distilled vinegar commonly found in grocery stores is usually a weak concentration (5 %), so it's considered safe for use around children and pets. Higher concentrations of vinegar (20%) are available at some home or garden centers, but they can cause eye and skin irritation and should be used with extreme caution. I don't know of any "earth-friendly" chemicals that work on weeds without also harming grass and desirable plants. Surrounding weeds with a coffee can (bottom and top removed) or another type of barrier will prevent the vinegar from drifting onto desirable plants while your spraying. You can "paint" vinegar on individual weeds to avoid damaging grass. To prevent weeds from emerging on your lawn while simultaneously fertilizing it, try to time an application of corn gluten meal to coincide with emerging weeds.
Lorraine,
Flowers are produced on new growth, so it's best to prune in the late winter or early spring while the tree is still dormant (February through April). Occasionally, Crepe Myrtle trees can also be encouraged to produce a second flush of flowers by lightly pruning them immediately after the first flowers fade. Keep in mind that heavy pruning isn't necessary to promote vigorous flowering. Light pruning is better. "Crepe Murder" is the amusing expression used to describe the wide spread, late winter mutilation of Crepe Myrtle trees commonly committed by well-intentioned gardeners each spring. Many gardeners and landscapers wait too long to prune. When vigorous growth results in heavy, yet weak (and broken) branches, they start to lop off the tree's limbs in an effort to control growth and fix its appearance. This practice of overzealous pruning almost always results in a proliferation of knobby stumps and crowds of sprouting suckers that over time, work to completely diminish the lovely flowing appearance of the tree. A regular regime of light pruning in various places will prevent this, while invigorating the tree and improving its overall strength. And while pruning isn't required for the health of your tree, a complete lack of pruning usually results in a weak spindly tree with fewer flowers. It's best to pick a variety that will grow to your desired height, and then prune it lightly to maintain its size. If necessary, remove limbs from inside the tree's canopy that cross or hang too low, by removing the entire branch so that it's flush with the tree's trunk. Remember that any stubs you leave while pruning will encourage new shoots.
I have two Assorted Hybrid Tea Roses that I purchased at Lowes. They have no thorns. They have not produced any roses but the bushes are very large and always putting on new growth. Should I prune them or what ? They do not say they are climbing roses. They are supposed to be a variety of colors.
Thanks for any help.
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Toehead from Loranger, LA
Answer:
Toehead,
There are three main reasons to prune roses: to train/maintain their shape, to keep them healthy and free from disease (by opening them up to greater air circulation) and to encourage larger or greater numbers of blooms. With Hybrid Tea roses, it's generally considered a good idea to remove any thin or non-productive wood less than a pencil's width in diameter in order to encourage blooming on the more robust canes. A hard pruning on Hybrid Teas tends to result in larger (but fewer) blooms. You don't mention how old your rose plants are, but first year plants should not be pruned (or at least pruned only very lightly) so that they can focus on establishing a strong, healthy root system. Before you prune young roses, make sure all of their basic growing requirements are being met. Any of the following conditions can contribute to a lack of blooms:
Lack of sun. For optimum performance, they should be receiving at least 6 hours of direct sun a day.
Lack of water. Give them at least 1/2 inch per week during the growing season-more during temperature extremes.
Lack of maturity. New rose plants may fail to bloom for the first year or two while they focus on getting established.
Incorrect soil pH. Roses like slightly acidic soil (6.0-6.8). When the pH of the soil falls out of this range, the ability of your rose plants to take up nutrients from the soil will be compromised and they may not get enough of the food they need to flower.
Incorrect amounts of fertilizer. Too much nitrogen can encourage the growth of leaves and stems, but inhibit the production of flowers. On the other hand, not enough fertilizer can result in sparse foliage so that your plants don't produce enough energy to produce flowers.
Put whole cloves of garlic around your plants that rabbits and other critters might be munching on. Put several around each plant, just lay on top of the ground. This is helping my friend, greatly. Her plants are are growing immensely, now. She found the best price on garlic to be at a warehouse store, like Sam's Club or Costco, over that of a grocery store.
I have a young crepe myrtle tree. It bloomed beautifully this spring, and I've trimmed the old flowers, and I'm already seeing new flowers. Many leaves of the tree are turning orange and falling off. When I first noticed this, I pruned to as to get rid of the bare spots. New growth has been vigorous. But I'm noticing that it's losing leaves again. We're dry here, but there's a good layer of mulch, and I don't think it's getting too much or too little water. Also, I fertilized it once this spring. Any idea why the tree seems to think it's autumn?
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Kim from Niceville, FL
Answer:
Kim,
It's sometimes hard to explain why trees suddenly start to drop healthy leaves, especially in your case, when you're fairly certain you've been maintaining proper moisture levels. In certain trees (maple, birch, elm, tulip trees) this is actually considered normal behavior. It might be normal for your tree, too, as you said its new growth has been vigorous this year. After a period of hot, dry weather following an optimal spring with wet, lush growing conditions, trees can actually develop an overabundance of leaves. When the tree comes under stress (your recent dry spell), it sheds some of its leaves rather than trying to maintain all of the excess foliage. What it may be doing is trying to maintain a balance between its above ground (foliage)and below ground (roots) growth.
What concerns me about your situation is the fact that your tree is young and that its leaves are turning color before dropping. The change in leaf color so prematurely is usually an indication that the tree is experiencing substantial stress-not necessary dying or even severely damaged, but in need of some special attention. You should check for signs of root or trunk damage and insect problems. A disease that causes premature discoloration and leaf drop is verticillium wilt. This disease causes blockages in the tree's vascular system. In the early stages, a few branches may start to decline and drop leaves. As it progresses, whole branches start to die. The disease can take several years to develop or it can happen all at once. Once underway, this disease is difficult to control in trees. Crepe Myrtle trees are not known to be susceptible to this disease, but it's something to watch out for.
Something is eating my lilacs as well as my flowering crabapple trees leaves. The holes are perfectly round, like a hole punch. This starts well after the flowers are gone. Can bees be the problem?
Hardiness Zone: 4b
Thanks,
Nancy from Darlington, ID
Answer:
Nancy,
If you've noticed bees around your crab apple tree and lilac bush, it's possible that you're seeing damage from leafcutter bees. They are similar in size to honey bees, but are darker in color with light bands on their abdomen. Leafcutter bees cut perfectly round or semicircular holes into the leaves and use the fragments to line the cells in their nests. These bees are actually important pollinators of wild plants and should not be considered pests. They are generally not aggressive unless handled and their sting is much milder and much less painful than that of honey bees or yellow jackets. Unlike their more social cousins the honey bees, leafcutter bees live a solitary life so you won't see big colonies or nests of them. The damage they do to leaves is only aesthetic and will not cause any lasting or permanent damage to your plants. In some cases, these bees have even been semi-domesticated and used for agricultural purposes to help pollinate alfalfa crops. They have many natural predators so you are likely to see their populations and activity vary from year to year.
We are having a real problem with squirrels and chipmunks digging in our garden. What can I do other than traps? I don't have time to trap and release a few miles away. I don't want to kill them, just discourage them.
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Thanks,
Jeanne from Albany,NY
Answer:
Jeanne,
The most effective way to prevent squirrels and chipmunks from digging in your garden is to cover your soil with metal screening or hardware cloth (using a 1/2 inch grid squares or smaller). Bury the screen just below the soil and use rocks to hold it in place. Of course, covering your soil with screen or mesh is really only practical if your garden is small or you're trying to protect individual pots. Some temporary deterrents you might want to try include predator urine, mothballs and other strong smelling scents-all readily available at garden centers. I don't recommend sprays or other products containing hot peppers. If these get into the animal's eyes, they can seriously injure or even blind themselves in an attempt to alleviate the pain caused by the oil in the peppers. I can think of nothing more horrifying than watching a half blind animal run frantically around the garden writhing in pain. My method of dealing with these garden critters isn't always popular with everyone, but it works for me. I've resorted to feeding them. Squirrels love corn, peanuts, peanut butter, fresh and dried fruit, dry dog food and black oil sunflower seeds. By feeding them during the height of my garden's productivity, I have successfully distracted them from deflowering and de-fruiting my plants. I use a simple wooden box on the ground placed about 50 feet away from my garden. As an added bonus, they seem to have lost all interest in my bird feeders, too.
I'm a new gardener. I planted cucumbers in a large pot on my patio. They appear to be doing well, but the blossoms bloom and fall off. What can I do? I don't see any cucumbers developing.
Hardiness Zone: 6b
Ray S from Jeannette, PA
Answer:
Ray,
If this is the first flush of flowers on your cucumbers, try not to worry. This is common among the Cucurbitaceae family of vine crops (cucumbers, melon, pumpkins and gourds). These plants produce male and female flowers on the same plant, which must be pollinated in order to produce fruit. The first flush of flowers to develop is usually made up almost entirely of male flowers. These will naturally fall off as soon as they shed their pollen. The second flush will contain both male and female flowers. To help you identify the difference, the female flowers will have a slight bulge just below where the petals are attached (this is your future cucumber). Male flowers, on the other hand, simply sit on a stalk attached to the vine.
If, on the other hand, all of your flowers are falling off, you could have a pollination problem. If pollination is poor or non-existent, the flowers simply abort (fall off) without producing any fruits. Pollination is usually carried out by neighborhood bees. Their activity can be reduced due to hot/cold weather extremes, pesticide use or natural fluctuations in their population, all of which can make successful pollination a hit or miss proposition. You might try pollinating your cucumbers by hand. To do this, simply pluck a male flower, and pull back the petals to expose the anthers loaded with pollen (it's very light colored so you may not be able to see it). Place the male blossom in the center of the female blossom so it comes into contact with the stigma (the pollen receptors) and gently twirl it around. You can also transfer pollen between the two using a cotton swab. Don't worry about getting it perfect, the transfer happens more easily than you would expect.
I have a few fig trees and my friends wish to have branches to propagate. I have done this in the past on a hit and miss basis, but I would like to know what is the best way to start fig trees. When is the best time? We tried Winter and they did not grow. Is it best to start in water until rooted or to put in soil?
Hardiness Zone: 8b
Angelina from Glendale, California
Answer:
Angelina,
In your climate, early spring or summer is a good time for propagation. Figs can be propagated from seed or by air layering, but taking stem cuttings and rooting suckers are probably the easiest methods for propagation. For stem cuttings, take the cuttings from a vigorously growing stem that contains some of last year's growth. You want the cuttings to be somewhat woody and not entirely green, as soft wood stems are more likely to rot. The cuttings should be 6-8 inches in length and about a pencil to a pinky finger in diameter. Remove the bottom leaves to expose 1-2 nodes and dip the cut ends into a rooting hormone. Insert the cuttings into a 4-inch plastic pot filled with a light, porous potting medium. (Plan on 1 to 4 cuttings per 4-inch pot.) Moisten the soil and cover the pot with a plastic bag or a 2-liter pop bottle to keep cuttings humid (cut off the bottom and leave the cap on). Place the pot under the protective shade of your mature fig tree. Once vigorous growth appears, remove the cap on the bottle to harden off the cuttings. Once hardened, they are ready to be given away (probably the following spring).
To root suckers, wait until they are about 6 inches tall (mid summer is the point when they have usually developed roots), cut them out and insert them into pots containing moistened, well-drained soil. Cover the pots in the same way you would the stem cuttings and place them in the shade. Harden them off once vigorous new growth appears.
The shorter days and cooler nighttime temperatures of September are once again signaling that the end of another summer growing season is drawing to a close. It's not officially fall yet, but the tail end of summer is certainly here. As our vegetable crops start to dwindle and our summer perennials start to fade, are garden to-do list can get long quickly if we don't keep on top of things.
A friend of mine with a truck who makes a fair living recycling curb-side cast offs began finding older heavy plastic (fiberglass?) Car-top Luggage Carriers. These were mostly from Sears, about 5' x 5' and 20" inches deep. He has been selling them to me for cheap, for various uses. I am preparing them for coldframes now, with winter gardening coming up, then spring seedlings.
Many plants, that do not grow too tall have needs for only about 6" of root area so those can remain longer, if needed. The wonderful design of these carriers in recycling them is that most, if not already damaged in some significant way, have metal hinges that will hold in the 3/4 open position. They also have removable hinges/tops should a person have need to remove the top. If done right, moisture is preserved inside, and pests are not so easily able to get into their design. (If somehow, one should become contaminated by anything, it can be easily isolated from all other garden areas and decontaminated accordingly).
I drill small holes in the bottom, covering each hole with 1/3 of a coffee filter. I then line the gently sloping side walls with rubber cemented 1" sheets of recycled styrofoam packing material prior to filling with soil, adding just the right amount of ingredients for each type of plant's soil needs. This gives great versatility and better success. It's always wise to add a layer of gravel beneath the soil for good drainage in any growing medium. INSPECT DAILY, or several times a week, for any sign of damage or need for adjustments in moisture, sun, pests, invasion, etc. Adding a few red wiggler fishing worms is always a good idea as well. (Keep the soil's heavy plastic bags for later *tip*).
As the seedlings begin to sprout their leaflets and the winter winds begin to blow against the back of the hinged top of the carrier, they can be turned against the wind. The top can safely be closed for a day or two, or more, should a light or heavy frost blow in, with good results because the color is always gray on bottom of the carrier and white on top, allowing for lots of temporary light and warmth.
Should a gardener be fortunate to have heating coils designed for coldframes, you can place them along the many ribs of the design in the bottom before adding soil, since the coils do not get red hot, making a larger, higher hole for the cord. Note that holes should be really necessary because it compromises the integrity of the use for luggage and leak free storage. It could, however, be well patched/taped over after gardening use, then reopened for later gardening re-use. Even if coils used over the season discolor or damage the medium grey thick plastic slightly, the carrier bottom does not show when used for luggage.
I am considering adding ordinary but electrically "grounded" light bulbs, perhaps at each corner, since I have no small children, and since I do NOT have heating coils. Small plastic bottles with a small hole in bottom can be placed throughout to water/feed plants, if necessary when not freezing. The carrier has a nice large overlapping fitted "lip" all around the edge of top and bottom that mate together nicely.
Come summer, after using in the garden as a greenhouse, the carrier can be emptied of soil (* Tip: replace soil back into original bags and reuse another season, if uncontaminated, adding a small amount of crushed charcoal if you have it to keep soil smelling better), whole carrier scrubbed and bleached or sanitized, and used for the original purpose of luggage carrier, outside camping equipment storage, etc. (Note: the few bolts need additional washers to prevent any water leakage for any outside storage items of cloth, tents, or perhaps garage sale items you may be accumulating.)
For water plant lovers, I can see how a few water lilies can be rooted and grown if a recirculating pump can be installed much like the heating coils. They prefer a "tank of their own" and lots of sun, I understand. Remember to add mosquito-eating minnows/fish to the water and/or mosquito bait. This carrier would also make an excellent Vermiculture home as well, except the holes might need to be sealed.
These may be the best ideas I've come up with yet for the carriers. I now have five carriers. For my purposes, they are as helpful as a tool shed. I'm going to add a little more sand to one and try to keep my herbs healthy throughout winter. They also make excellent covered sand boxes, shallow wading pools (but have multiple ribs in the bottom that may cause tiny ones to fall) since the lids are totally removable. They can also become compost storage (will stain, if left too long or compost is too wet), garden supply bins, pet homes, pool equipment/cushion storage, and even, if corner damaged, the carrier can store firewood and keep garbage away from most roaming domestic pets/rodents until garbage day pickup.
I would NOT store chemical, paint, or flammables in them because they might become combustible unless stored on a much wider concrete pad inside a non-flammable fence and in the shade at all times. Check with the local fire marshall. They would make excellent multiple garden tool and/or hose storage, too. Remove any canvas/straps that may be attached for car-top carrying. Also remove the black rubber pads on the bottom before using in the garden, later regluing them back onto carrier with rubber cement for the original car-top uses. Do not leave open during threat of high wind to prevent obvious risk of damage.
Do not let children climb on top because the corners seem vulnerable to damage and may be thinner at the curves. These are too useful to allow children to damage the tops of them. Encourage 4-6 yr. olds to store their outside toys in them, if you want, but set boundaries and describe warnings and cautions. Although a very small child could theoretically become trapped inside, they do not appear to be airtight like appliances. Do not use a damaged one for children's toy storage, sand box, or wading pool because the edges of any damage/cracks may be sharp. Just use common sense as with anything.
They can be stacked on top of one another for long time outside storage, are not heavy when empty, (may slide off one another if pads have been removed and if they are jolted hard or left open for any reason during high wind). They can be locked at their two outside hinges, can help in moving, and age quite well. Most are uniform in size, with few variations, so, although "different" when used "outside the box", they certainly DESERVE recycling! Any additional use ideas are appreciated. God Bless you in your efforts.
Hedges are an attractive way to define the boundaries of your yard and garden. Unlike privacy fences, hedges can be used to create an almost impenetrable barrier around small or narrow lots. They also provide shelter from the sun and wind, add year round interest to the garden and let you retain a sense of openness with your neighbors.
I have searched the Q&A for answers on lilacs. I have done all that is suggested, no cutting after July, right amount of nurients. All day light and still no blooms. It suckers like crazy, new sprouts all around the parent bush, but no blooms. What to do?
When and how do I harvest horseradish? How do I prepare the root? I have searched for this for two years, and can't seem to find any information. Any input would be appreciated.
I have 4 rose bushes and I'm having trouble with brown leaves. Most of the leaves are green but, then I find on every bush some brown with white power looking stuff. The new growth the leaves are a yellow/green color. I live in AZ. Could it also be the heat? Also, every summer my front yard has 1 brown spot, what is this from?
What is the best and easiest method for getting rid of crabgrass? This year is probably too late to do anything. What should I do for next year? My lawn was over run with crabgrass this year more than any other year.
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Plants are widely available for transplanting or can be started form seed. Seeds are tiny and can be started indoors 10 to 12 weeks before last frost date. Do not cover them, as they need light to germinate. Simply press them lightly into the soil surface and germinate at 65º to 70º F. Because petunias are actually tender perennials, they can be brought indoors in the winter (keep them in bright light at 55º to 65º F) and set outdoors the following spring. If they get leggy from mid summer heat, cut stems back by half to produce bushy new growth.
Tomatoes cultivars are either determinate (grow to a specific height, flower and produce in short time) or indeterminate (grow, flower and fruit over a long period of time). Determinant tomatoes are good for large crops used for canning. Indeterminate varieties are best if you want to pick tomatoes to eat fresh.
Many of today's tomatoes are hybrids and won't breed true if seeds are saved and planted the following season. If growing plants with the intention of saving seed, choose heirloom varieties for offspring that reproduce true to their mother plant. Mixing some lime into the soil adds calcium that will help balance soil minerals, helping prevent some types of fruit deformities as well as blossom end rot.
Start with plants, cuttings or sow seeds directly in the garden (after night temperatures warm to 50ºF in cooler zones). After roots become established, water only moderately every 7 to 10 days to avoid root rot. In zones 8-10, Dusty Miller can be grown as a biennial, and can be grown as an annual in zones 3-7.
Native to southern Europe, Dusty Miller is grown primarily for its attractive silver-gray foliage and most gardeners prefer to cut off the flowers to encourage leaf growth. Its deer resistant silvery foliage is also lovely in the moonlight.
Caraway are grown not so much for their medicinal herbal properties as they are for their culinary uses in flavoring in dishes, candies and liqueurs. It has bright green leaves similar to a carrot top and 18 to 30 inch stems that appear rather weedy looking.
Celosia thrives in heat and humidity. Sow seeds directly outdoors in warmer zones. In cooler zones start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before last frost. Transplant seedlings 6 to 8 inches apart (tall varieties 12 to 15 inches apart) once you're sure the weather is going to stay warm. To dry Celosia, harvest them when they are fully open, removed leaves and hang them upside down to dry.
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