Happy Garden - March 13, 2008

Vol. 3, Num. 11, March 13, 2008 (Read It Online) We have a great article about Forcing Branches and Ellen Brown answers more of your gardening questions. Are flowers starting to appear in your yard? Feel free to post photos here: http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_photocontest.ldml Thanks for reading, Susan Send to a Friend! Submit Your Gardening Tips Submit Photos of Your Garden Submit a Gardening Request Edit Your Subscriptions: To edit your ThriftyFun subscriptions, click the Update Profile/Email Address link at the bottom of this newsletter. Today's newsletter contains: Photos: Sea of Crocus Starting Seeds In February Tips and Articles: Strawberries Advice Selling Trees I Want to Remove from My Yard Artificial Fertilizers Raspberries Advice Forcing Branches: Bringing a Touch of Spring Indoors Watering Bamboo Sticks New Requests: Keeping Dog Out of Vegetable Garden Will Birds Use Old Nests? Confederate Jasmine Not Flowering When Will My Hydrangeas Bloom? Gardening at a Rental House Rabbits Eating Flowers and Plants Today's Sponsor: Crafting for Fun and Money! If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish. More Information: Click Here: http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_craft.ldml Photos: Sea of Crocus I drove by this house in my neighborhood this week and I just had to stop and take a picture. It looked like a sea of purple crocus. I guess Spring is finally here! Jess in Oregon Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf57774778.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Starting Seeds In February On February 1st, we planted tomatoes, peppers, basil, and peppermint. We are going to experiment with our Wall O Waters this year, so are preparing our plants well ahead of the normal Mother's Day planting date in our area. The sticks you can see are toothpicks with the name of each plant written in fine-tip permanent marker. By Katie A. from Gallup NM Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf76414417.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Tips and Articles: Strawberries Advice Question: I want to do strawberries and planted about 50 tiny starter plants. Within a few weeks I found an ant hill and a few weeks later, most plants were dead. My neighbor told me that I wont be able to grow strawberries because of the ants? Any suggestions? Hardiness Zone: 5a imama2many from UT Answer: imam2many, A large colony of ants can be problematic in a strawberry patch primarily because the ants act as protectors of aphids-tiny sap sucking insects which love to feed on young strawberry leaves. The aphids eat the leaves and excrete a sugary substance called honeydew that the ants love to feed on. The ants appreciate the honeydew so much that they will actually act as shepherds to the aphids, protecting them and herding them from plant to plant in an effort to keep them well fed. It is a win-win for both insects. Short of moving your strawberries to a new location or resorting to pesticide use (which is unhealthy in the case of edibles and not always effective anyway), one strategy might be to try to clear the ants out of the area before replanting this spring. A week or two before you expect to plant, keep the soil moist (not saturated) and turn the soil over once or twice every day with a shovel. This will destroy their current mounds and should be enough to keep them from rebuilding. In theory, they will be fed up from the constant commotion and move to a more stable location. I have also read of gardeners successfully convincing them to relocate after flooding the mounds daily with a watering can, and others having some success by mixing dichotomous earth into and on top of the mounds. Good luck! Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf71596716.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Selling Trees I Want to Remove from My Yard Question: We have 5 big oak tree in our back yard and we want to get rid off them. Wondering if there are any company will buy them? I live in New Jersey. Can someone please give me some information? Thanks a lot! Hardiness Zone: 6b Sarah from Livingston, NJ Answer: Sarah, It sounds like you have found some great resources. The following information does not sound like it applies to your particular situation (although check out the link at the end). Nevertheless, it may be of value to others who are considering selling the trees in their backyards for profit. Recently, a story appeared in the news in Rochester, MN, about a company going door-to door and offering residents money in exchange for their walnut trees. As many of you probably know, Walnut is a type of wood highly prized for its strength, versatility, and beautiful wood grain, and currently, the price of Walnut has gotten quite high. The practice of selling off your backyard trees is legal and in most cases, the companies buying them are perfectly legitimate. The problem is that during tough economic times people sometimes become shortsighted and have a difficult time passing up a seemingly great deal. In most cases, leaving the trees there is of much greater value to homeowners than the money offered by companies to remove them. Not only do the trees provide shade, fresh air, contribute to water quality, and provide shelter and food to neighborhood animals, but mature trees (the ones usually sought after by companies) can add up to 10% to a homeowner's property value. That equates to a dollar amount that is usually a far greater than they receive for selling them. Make sure if you are thinking about selling one or more of trees on you're property (especially if it's an urban property) that you consider all aspects of the deal before committing to the transaction. Also be aware that legitimate companies do not usually go door-to-door making offers, and all should be happy to provide you with a copy of their license and insurance, as well as several references. Here are some other ways to make money from the trees (and plants) on your land without necessarily selling them: http://www.dof.virginia.gov/resources/pub-1993-USDA-FS-AgInfo-666.pdf Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf30186667.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Artificial Fertilizers Question: I am looking for some examples of artificial fertilizers. Rimmi from Kolkata, India Answer: Rimmi, Are you looking for brand names? There are hundred-far too many to list. Here is the basic difference between synthetic and organic fertilizers. Keep in mind that both types contain chemicals (whether naturally derived or not) and both can be harmful to the environment (and your plants) if used improperly. The terms organic, inorganic, natural, and synthetic, all have different meanings. Lets try to clear up some of this confusion first. Chemically speaking, inorganic fertilizers come from non-living sources. For example, rock phosphate, a common source of phosphorus, comes from rocks, a non-living material. Rock phosphate may be naturally occurring in nature, but it is still not organic (derived from living things). Organic fertilizers are derived from material produced by things that were once living. Examples are manure, blood or bone meal, and fish emulsion. The term synthetic refers to something produced by a 'synthesis' of elements or materials. In other words, it is usually man made. For example, synthetic fertilizer describes products like a nitrogen fertilizer manufactured by combining natural gas with nitrogen from the air. It all gets a bit confusing because something can be inorganic non-living) and still occur naturally. Naturally occurring means, well, that something occurs naturally. Okay. So, those numbers you see on most fertilizer labels refer to the concentration (percent) of the three major nutrients needed for growth: nitrogen (N), phosphate (P), and potassium (K). All can be derived from organic or inorganic sources (which in the case of inorganic sources, are sometimes synthetically produced). Here are some examples of both: Organic nitrogen: alfalfa, blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal, fish emulsion, and fishmeal. Inorganic nitrogen: ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, urea, and sulfur-coated urea. Organic phosphorus: steamed bone meal, hard rock phosphate, and colloidal phosphate. Inorganic phosphorus: superphosphate, triple superphosphate, and ammonium phosphate. Organic potassium: greensand, sulfate of potash, kelp meal, and wood ash. Inorganic potassium: potassium chloride (muriate of potash), potassium nitrate, and potassium sulfate. In addition to these three major nutrients, most synthetic fertilizers also contain sulfur and small amounts of trace elements like iron, zinc copper, calcium, manganese, and magnesium. In healthy soil, these trace elements occur naturally. In synthetic fertilizers, the elements are available to the plants as soon as you apply the fertilizer. Organic fertilizers release nutrients slowly over time-the same way they would be released to plants in nature. As far as the plants themselves go, they can't tell the difference between organic and synthetic fertilizers. To them, the nutrients are all the same. One of the biggest problems with synthetic fertilizers is that they tend to tip the scales of nature heavily toward certain nutrients once they are applied. That is because most people forgo getting their soil tested to see what nutrients are lacking. Instead, they tend to go for the quick payoff and forge ahead with the fertilizers. Unfortunately, down the road this can spell trouble. Unlike organic fertilizers, synthetic fertilizers do nothing to build the soil and because nutrients are so concentrated during application, they often do harm to soil microorganisms. They are also generally much more labor intensive to produce. I hope this helps! Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf78965131.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Raspberries Advice Question: I desperately want to grow raspberries but last year when I bought several stocks, they QUICKLY died. I think it might be due to lack of water or some heat issues during the summer... but I'm not positive. I have been told that berries in my area us REALLY hard to pull off. Any suggestions? Hardiness Zone: 5a Imama2many from UT Answer: Imama2many, Your hunch about heat and water issues being the cause of your raspberry casualties is probably correct. Raspberries tend to prefer cool, moist conditions. Once established, they should be watered infrequently, but deeply. Growing them in your region can pose some unique challenges due to the abundance of microclimates. There are several commercial growers in the northern part of your state though, so if you are desperate to grow some do not give up. There is always hope when gardening! The climate and soil conditions in Utah are extremely diverse so before you invest in new plants, make sure you have a good idea of the pH, salt content and overall condition of your soil. Raspberries like nutrient-rich well-drained soil, so if a lot of conditioning is needed to bring your soil up to speed, you may want to consider building some raised beds and bringing in new soil. Purchase new plants in the spring and get them into the ground as soon as possible (dont worry about frost, raspberries are cold hardy). Some varieties are more suitable to your climate (for example, black raspberries tend to fair better in heat) so make sure to shop at a reputable local nursery rather than a large discount home center. The following links are specific instructions for growing raspberries in Utah: http://www.larrysagers.com/weeklyarticles/growing_raspberries_in_utah_is_real_challenge_98-04-30.html http://extension.usu.edu/files/factsheets/hg161.pdf Personally, I lost many canes to deer and bunnies this winter. Good luck! Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf79508371.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Forcing Branches: Bringing a Touch of Spring Indoors By Ellen Brown For me, one of the hardest parts about spring (besides keeping the mudroom clean) is the endless waiting for it to get here. The arrival of March (at least here in zone 4) brings the first few promises of spring-the sun is noticeably higher in the sky and the snow at the base of neighborhood trees is starting to recede. Too bad March also brings a huge case of 'garden fever.' The cure? Forcing spring branches may be just what the doctor ordered. Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf15998097.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Watering Bamboo Sticks Question: Do bamboo sticks need to be watered? Zaneta from Montreal, Canada Answer: Zaneta, The "lucky" bamboo plants you find in discount stores and garden centers (and this includes those sold without leaves and labeled sticks) do need to be watered. Bamboo sticks are typically sold in vases containing only enough water to cover the roots (1-3 inches). They can also be grown in soil, but it is generally not recommended because it requires care that is more complex. As for the type of water to use, filtered or natural spring water is best. If your tap water contains high concentrations of salt and you do not have access to bottled water, rainwater is your second best choice. Chemically treated tap water should be allowed to stand overnight before being used to allow the chemicals to evaporate. Yellowing leaves are usually a sign of too much direct sunlight, not enough light, or a sign that the water contains too much salt or fluoride. Do not use distilled water, as it lacks some of the trace elements necessary to maintain optimal plant health. The most important care requirement is keeping the water clean (plan to change it every week) and giving the plant enough light (artificial is fine). If you have a leafless bamboo stick and want to encourage it to grow leaves, place it in a warm room (at least 65-70 F) and under full spectrum lighting. Keep the stems green by adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer to the water on occasion (once a month or so). Good luck! Ellen Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf23800236.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Contest! Tip Contest Submit a Tip or Recipe! Photo Contest Submit a tip with photo! The above contests are weekly. We pick 2 tip winners and 1 photo winner at the end of each week. Each winner will win $25! My Frugal Life Submit a My Frugal Life Essay! New Requests: Keeping Dog Out of Vegetable Garden How do you keep a dog out of a vegetable garden? It's a very small garden, and not worth the cost of fencing it in. If I fenced it, I'd have no room for the plants. Holly from Richardson, TX Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf38376293.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Will Birds Use Old Nests? I have bird nests in some of my trees that were left over from last year. Should I take them down, or will birds use them again even though they didn't make them? Hardiness Zone: 6a Peg from Springboro, OH Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf97112338.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Confederate Jasmine Not Flowering I have a Confederate Jasmine. It has very dark green leaves. It's a healthy plant but not flowering. What I can do to induce some flowers? Hardiness Zone: 11 Luis from Carolina, PR Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf74636042.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print When Will My Hydrangeas Bloom? How long before a hydrangea blooms? I bought Nikko Blue hydrangeas from BJ's Wholesale Club. I am guessing they won't be big enough to bloom this year but I was wondering if it was correct to expect them to have some flowering action next summer? Your advice is appreciated. Hardiness Zone: 7b Dawnne from Indian Land, SC Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf81964142.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Gardening at a Rental House I've recently moved into a new house and last Sunday I started cleaning out my front flower bed. Come to find out its full of gravel! I've been told not to worry, to just put down top soil. I've also been told to sift the gravel out. The soil is also super silty. I've also started morning glory, sunflower, zinnia's, moon flowers, and salvia seeds. They are all planted in regular soil from my garden (minus the gravel) in an egg crate in my kitchen. Can I water them with miracle grow to help them along, or will that burn them? I know morning glory is voracious but I've got trellises and the time to cut them back when needed. Also, any idea for a small colorful (preferably blooming ) tree I can plant in a very large barrel for my front yard? I'm a renter but I'd like to have a pretty little tree. Hardiness Zone: 10a Marisa from Santa Maria, California Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf46969054.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Rabbits Eating Flowers and Plants How can I keep rabbits from eating my plants? They eat everything: vegetables, flowers, shrubs, ornamental grasses. Hardiness Zone: 7b Alicia from Raleigh, NC Post Feedback: http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf585624.tip.html Email to a Friend | Get Responses | Bookmark | Link | Rate It: | Print Looking for a frugal solution to an everyday problem? Submit your request here: Click Here Today's Sponsor: Crafting for Fun and Money! If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish. More Information: Click Here: http://www.thriftyfun.com/post_craft.ldml More Stuff Seed Swap! Swap seeds with other ThriftyFun.com users. Submit a Request... Frugal solutions to everyday problems.