Happy Garden Newsletter - October 12, 2006

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Thanks,
Betty from Slate Hill, NY

Answer:

Are they both planted at the same depth? If you think the plant that is not blooming is planted too deeply, try pulling a little soil away from the crown of the roots. Hydrangeas planted too deeply will not perform well.

Plants are temperamental beings. I've found that they can be as different from one another as people. Despite being given the exact same access to food, water and sunshine, even plants of the same species can respond differently to their environment. Since your hydrangeas are planted side by side, does one end up protecting the other from exposure to snow or winter winds? Could the flower buds from your non-blooming hydrangea be suffering from winter damage? Does one hydrangea receive even slightly more light due to its position next to the other? How about one being in a position where it would get too much fertilizer due to run-off from the lawn? You may also want to try changing when you prune the plant that isn't blooming just to make sure that isn't the problem. If all else fails, maybe it will be happier if you relocate it to a different place in the garden.

Ellen

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Question:

1. Cherry trees blossomed well but the fruit as it ripened (blackened) covered up in fungus. Even those without fungus on top had a small white insect inside them. What measures could betaken to cure/prevent such in next season on the same trees?

2. The plum tree has the base almost rotten away. It gave fruit this year but fruits are not ripening.

3. The grape vine has bunches of green grapes with some of them going dark.

Appreciate your time and nay help you could provide,

Thanks,
Nusrat from Toronto, Canada

Answer:

Wow! It sounds like you inherited some great fruit trees. Too bad you had to inherit a host of problems, too. Let's take them one at a time.

1. Cherry Trees: Controlling insect pests and fungus on cherry trees can require specific timing, so you need to be certain what you're dealing with before deciding on what course of action you should take. Because I can't see your tree, I can only try to point you in the right direction. One of the most common insect pests of cherry trees is the cherry fruit fly. The larvae of this pest are white or cream colored and feed within the fruit. Here is a link to more information, including pictures of the adult fly and the larvae and some suggested methods for control. http://www.canr.msu.edu/vanburen/fcfly.htm

Brown Rot is a main fungus disease in cherry trees. Try this link with information, pictures and control recommendations. (http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/extension/tfabp/brstone.shtml)

2. From your description, things don't sound too good for your plum tree. The fact that it's producing fruit is a good sign, but the fruit not ripening could be a sign of trouble. If a large portion of the trunk is rotted, the tree probably won't survive. Here is a list of certified arborists in your area. I would recommend shopping around for someone who can assess whether or not your tree is structurally sound and if so, what can be done to preserve it. (http://www.isaontario.com/pages/find_arb.php)

3. It sounds like your grapes are starting to ripen unevenly. Concord grapes seem most susceptible to this problem. Some grapes in the cluster remain sour, hard and green while others develop the purple color and soften during the ripening process. Although it is not clearly understood why this problem occurs, it seems to be more prevalent during warmer than average summers.

A solid program of pruning, pest management and soil enrichment done over a period of three of four years should help rejuvenate what is salvageable of your orchard.

I hope some of this information is useful. The following are links to more resources you might find useful.

• Utah State Univ. Extension Publications & Knowledge Base
  (use the search tool to locate publications of interest).
• Home Orchard Society
• Good Fruit Grower

Good luck!
Ellen

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Question:

Midge from Palm Harbor, FL

Answer:

The short answer is no. Here is why. First off, it's important to note that the terms "ripe" and "mature" are usually used synonymously, but they actually mean different things. A mature fruit is one that has completed its growth phase. This will also ensure that it completes its ripening phase (reaches optimal quality for consumption), because a fruit cannot ripen until it reaches maturity. Ripening is the term used to describe the changes that occur within the fruit from the time it reaches maturity to the beginning of decay. These changes usually involve starches converting to sugars, a decrease in acids and a softening and change in the fruit's color.

Technically speaking, citrus fruits do not go through a ripening process in the sense that they get "tree ripe." Some fruits (like cherries) physically mature and then continue to ripen on the tree. Other fruits (like pears) are picked when mature, but before they ripen. They then continue to ripen off the tree. Citrus fruits like oranges pass from immaturity, to maturity to over-maturity while still on the tree. Once they are separated from the tree, that's it. They will not increase in sweetness or continue to "ripen." The only way change that may happen after being picked is that they will eventually start to decay.

Whatever stage of maturity the oranges were in when your neighbor cut down the tree is where they will remain until they start to decline. With oranges, color cannot be used as an indicator of ripeness because sometimes the rinds turn orange long before the oranges are ready to eat. Tasting them is the only way to know whether or not they are ready to eating. Try one and find out!

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Thanks,
Rita from Dallas, TX

Answer:

Crape Myrtle trees can be propagated by both hardwood or softwood cuttings. Hardwood cuttings from dormant plants roots easily in the winter, especially with a bit help from some rooting hormone. They can be taken in December. Softwood cuttings root easily in the summer (May). I would recommend taking several cuttings in the event that some fail. If you end up getting several cuttings to root, you can always give them away to your new neighbors. Take 4-inch long cuttings, each with a bud 1/4 of an inch from the top end. They should be about as thick as a pencil. Dip the bottom of each cutting into a rooting hormone and insert the cuttings into a pot filled with a moist lightweight potting soil or soil-less mix. The cuttings should be kept humid and moist (not wet) until they have developed several sets of leaves. This can be accomplished by placing the top half of a 2-liter bottle over the pots. If things start to get too moist, just remove the covering for a few minutes to allow them some air. Keep the cuttings in a warm, bright location, but out of direct sunlight.

Good luck with your move!
Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 9a

Pam from Anderson, CA

Answer:

First of all, kudos to you for trying to find some natural solutions to your Blackberry problems. One thing you need to understand about Blackberry vines is that they don't respond to control methods in the same way that many other vines do. In other words, they don't respond to "tough love." Mowing them, cutting them or burning them only encourages the growth of suckers. In fact, the more you beat blackberry vines up the stronger they get. The key to your chemical-free success will come in the form of persistence. Outlast the blackberries and victory will be yours!

The best natural means of control is repeat tilling. Start by cutting the vines back down to the ground. Try to locate as many of the root balls as possible and dig them out. Follow this up with 10" of wood chip mulch. The mulch will block out the light and help prevent any seeds from sprouting. Over time, sprouts will invariably emerge through the mulch. When they do, till them under. Without leaves to produce food the roots will eventually starve and die. Tilling will fragment the roots and stems and cause them to re-sprout in other locations, so repeating this process several times may be necessary (this is the persistence part). Depending on how many vines you need to eradicate, you may be able to breathe a sigh of relief after a 2-3 years. A good time to start this project is in April.

Good Luck!
Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 7a

Josie from Tulsa, Oklahoma

Answer:

Most tomatoes take anywhere from 30-60 days to mature from seed, and several environmental factors can affect their ability to set fruit. Heat is one those factors. Once daytime temperatures reach into the 90's and nighttime temperatures hover near the mid 70's, tomato plants have trouble setting fruit because high temperatures render the pollen sterile. There are a couple of strategies to combat this problem. The first is to grow varieties that mature earlier, before the Oklahoma summer heat sets in. Smaller tomato varieties (e.g. cherry) usually need less time to mature, while larger tomato varieties take longer. The smaller varieties are also more likely to set fruit better in hot weather. You could also buy established seedlings or start yours indoors several weeks before transplanting in order to give them a jump on the season. If your plants still haven't set fruit by the time the intense heat sets in, try to keep your plants healthy and consistently watered and once the temperatures drop, they should resume setting fruit. Other factors that prevent tomatoes from setting fruit include low temperatures (below 50ºF), a lack of sunlight (less than 8-10 hours), inconsistent watering, damage from pests (e.g. thrips), or too much nitrogen fertilizer.

Ellen

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My gardening attention span seems to be tied to the growth and die back of the plants in my garden. As they wake up each spring, I find myself full of energy and ambitious to take on various garden chores. As plants die back in the fall, however, my motivation tends to go dormant along with them. Although I can't resist the showy contributions they make to my perennials gardens, there are few chores I dread more than digging up tender bulbs and storing them for winter. If you live in a zone where tender bulbs will not survive winter outdoors, here are some tips for making this task as quick and painless as possible.

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 11

Regards,
Micah

Answer:

You're lucky. You live in the perfect climate to grow ginger outdoors. Start ginger from 1 to 1 1/2 inch long rhizomes (roots) that contain at least one eye. If you're using ginger roots from the grocery store or specialty store, look for firm, smooth roots with plenty of "eyes." Slice the roots into sections a few days before planting so that the cut surfaces have time to cure (dry). This will help reduce the chance of decay setting in once the roots are planted. Ginger does poorly in full sun so choose a site with partial shade. Lay the rhizomes down flat, eyes up, and press them lightly into the soil. Plant them in well-prepared beds or in pots filled with high quality potting mix. A 12-inch pot will hold 3 rhizomes nicely. Cover the roots with an inch of soil. Keep everything soil moist, but not wet. The roots need temperatures of 75ºF to 80ºF to germinate. The length of time to maturity depends on your end use. For fresh use, dig up the tubers in 5 to 6 months. They will be tender, less pungent and lower in fiber content. Ginger that you plan on drying or using for essential oils can be harvested in 8-9 months when the leaves start to yellow and the roots are at their most pungent. If you see new sprouts popping up in front of the main plants, they will have formed their own tubers. Use their leaves and stems anytime or dig up the tubers and replant them.

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Jim

Answer

When to prune you cherry tree depends on its age. Young sweet cherry trees should be pruned annually in the late winter or early spring while they're being trained. This is done to maintain size, shape, air circulation and light, as well as to maintain balanced growth. Training using a central leader shape (similar to pruning apple trees) is widely accepted as the best method. At planting time, don't worry about shortening the main stem or any of the side branches, just thin out crowded branches.

During the first growing season, pick 3-4 main branches that are 12 to 15 inches apart along the main stem on each side of the tree and prune the rest back. These branches should be about 12 to 18 inches in length.

During the first winter, the side branches should not be shortened by more than one third of their length. If a branch has obviously outgrown the other branches or the main stem, cut it back so it's the same length as the others. Once your cherry tree becomes established, it will require less pruning. When the tree starts to bear fruit, prune it just after harvest. This will allow light into the canopy and encourage the growth of next year's fruit buds. Thin the center of the tree as necessary to promote good air circulation.

Ellen

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Edie from Spokane, WA

Answer

It's true. When sprayed on aphids, a solution consisting of liquid dish soap and water will kill aphids and many other soft-bodied insects such as caterpillars, thrips, mealybugs, spidermites, leafhopper, lace bugs and whiteflys. Most of these soaps are made from the potassium salts of fatty acids. When sprayed on soft-bodied insects, these fatty acids disrupt the structure and permeability of the insects' cells, causing the contents to leak out, which quickly kills them. Most any type of liquid dish soap will work, but DAWN is biodegradable and contains no phosphates, which is better for the environment. Insecticidal soaps only work on contact and not as a preventative measure. In other words, the soap needs to completely cover the body of the pest you're trying to control. Dried soap residue on the plants will not harm the insects. The disadvantage to using insecticidal soaps is that it causes phytotoxicity (damage from chemicals) in some plants. Here are some tips for using insecticidal soaps effectively:

• Apply insecticidal soaps in conditions that favor slow drying, such as early morning or early evening. Avoid applying during the warmest parts of the day and in temperatures over 90ºF.

• Spot test plants 48 hours before full application to test chemical sensitivity. Signs of chemical damage include yellow or brown spotting on the leaves, burned tips or leaf scorch. Plants with waxy leaves are less likely to suffer damage than those with dull or hairy leaves.

• Plants exhibiting chemical damage within a few hours after treatment should be rinsed thoroughly with water.

• Always wait for new growth to harden off before treating.

• Never spray fruit trees while in bloom.

• Do not apply insecticidal soaps to young transplants or to plants under stress from heat or water.

• Trees and herbaceous plants with known sensitivities to insecticidal soaps inclued horse chestnut, mountain ash, Japanese maple, sweet gum, jade plant, lantana, gardenia, bleeding heart, crops of thorns, and certain cultivars of azalea, poinsettia, begonia, impatiens, fuchsia, geranium, ferns, Easter lilies, palms and some succulents.

• Soap mixed with hard water may be less effective and may leave a precipitate behind from the metal ions in the hard water.

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Christine from Sanremo, Italy http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf83922413.tip.html

Answer

These are one of several types of black pansy cultivars. I love them! They really turn heads and make an interesting addition to any flower garden. Just like other pansies, the petals are edible and make a wonderful garnish when cooking (especially desserts and salads) In British folklore black pansies are thought to be magical. It's said that picking them on sunny days will cause stormy weather and picking them while they have dew on their petals will cause the death of a loved one. While I don't subscribe to British folklore, I do think that planting them with orange-colored marigolds, mums or pansies would create great fall planters-especially for Halloween.

Incidentally, for those who are interested, there is often a lot of confusion surrounding the differences between violets and pansies. Both are in the Viola genus (along with violas). Pansies were hybridized in Europe in the 19th century. Like violets, they are low growing, but their flowers are usually much larger with 5 velvety petals that overlap each other perfectly. Unlike violets, pansies come in all colors except green.

Ellen

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Question:

bbleackley from Saskatchewan

Answer

You can make your own kit to test your soil's pH, but keep in mind that it will only give you a general indication of acidity or alkalinity. Most plants grow best in soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. it won't be as accurate as getting your soil tested by a certified lab. To make your own pH testing kit, you'll need a couple of glass jars, some vinegar and some baking soda. Start by spooning several tablespoons of soil from your garden into a jar. Take two to three samples of dirt from the topsoil and two to three samples from 3-4 inches deep. Mix all of the dirt together. Now spoon two tablespoons of the mixed soil into each jar and mix in a little bit of water until the soil is just moistened.

In a separate container, mix a tablespoon of baking soda with two tablespoons of water. Pour this into one of the jars containing soil. If the soil starts to bubble or fizz, it may mean your soil is on the acidic side of the pH scale. If it doesn't fizz at all, you may have alkaline soil.

Now add a tablespoon of white vinegar into the second jar containing a mixture of your soil. This time if it fizzes, it may mean your soil is more on the alkaline side of the pH scale.

If your soil is acidic, you will want to increase soil pH. Lime is most commonly used. To lower the pH of alkaline soils, use compost and manure. Remember, changing your soil's pH takes time. The best time to perform a soil test and add amendments to your soil is in the fall.

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Thrifty is my middle name, just ask my kids. I blame it on the fact that my parents were raised during the depression, though there's really no cause for blame. Thrift has served me well over the years.

One area in which I am particularly frugal is my gardening. "Waste not, want not" is definitely my motto here. I am the only person I know who is content to allow wild blackberry bushes to thrive. I do this because I can pick, wash and freeze the berries, which I use to make cobbler during the cold winter months. Other people tend roses. I tend wild blackberries.

My thrifty nature in the garden is really a creative outlet. For instance, I grow lavender because I love both the color and the fragrance. But with me, it doesn't stop there. I dry the flowers, strip the stalks, and tie the fragrant bits up in scraps of fabric to make drawer sachet and little bundles to add a relaxing scent to bath water. I have also steeped the dried flowers in water to make tea, which is refreshing poured over ice and served cold. You can also dry stalks of lavender and use them in dried flower arrangements and on wreaths for yourself or for gift-giving.

Another one of my favorite things to grow is tomatoes, summer just wouldn't be the same without them. The harvest from even a few plants will provide you with enough tomatoes for many sandwiches and salads. Tomatoes can also be baked, broiled, stewed, and used in countless meat and pasta dishes. Somehow, no matter how many I use, there are always more. My grandmother used to peel and can hers to use for making sauce. I like my own method of preserving because it saves a great deal of time. I simply chop the tomatoes, toss them into a blender (seeds, skin, and all), liquefy, and freeze them in plastic containers. Later I defrost as necessary and add tomato paste and seasonings to make sauce.

Would you ever consider adding broccoli or cauliflower to a sauce you're making? No? Well, think again, because it's a great way to make use of the stalks. First you chop the stalks into one inch pieces. Place them into a saucepan and cover them with water or chicken broth. Cook them until they are fork tender. Allow the mixture to cool slightly (do not drain) and ladle it into a blender. Liquefy, pour into plastic containers, and freeze. Defrost as necessary and add to your favorite tomato sauce recipe. You can also add this to some soups. Your family will never know you're sneaking in another serving of vegetables.

A few other plants definitely worth your time and effort are zucchini, pumpkins, and sunflowers. Sunflowers are big, bold, beautiful, and something I really enjoy. I always save some seeds for planting, some for sharing, and some for feeding the birds. The seeds can also be roasted for snacking.

To prepare seeds for roasting, soak them in salt water for half an hour. Dry the seeds on a tray, stirring occasionally so they dry on all sides. When they are dry, spread them out on a baking sheet Bake them at 225 degrees F. for thirty minutes, then at 350 degrees F. for fifteen minutes longer. Cool the seeds and store them in an air-tight container.

Seeds from pumpkins can also be roasted for snacking. Remove seeds from the pumpkin, wash and dry them. Spread them out on a baking sheet and sprinkle them with cooking oil and a little salt. Bake them at 350 degrees F., stirring often, until lightly browned. Cool and serve as a crunchy snack. The pumpkin itself can be cooked and prepared to use in making pies, cakes, muffins, cookies, and even soup. Zucchini is another vegetable perfect for cakes, muffins, cookies, and soup, in addition to any other favorite ways your family may like it served.

Flower gardens also invite creativity. Assuming your flowers are pesticide-free, hearty marigold blossoms can be frozen inside ice cubes to add color to beverages. Try decorating a birthday cake for someone special with fresh violets, or topping a salad with fresh nasturtiums. Check your library or search the web for information on additional edible flowers.

Keep in mind you don't have to eat flowers to make use of them. Blossoms with thin petals, such as clematis, can be pressed and dried between the pages of a phone book. Frame the pressed flowers and use them to decorate your home or give them as a gift. Strawflowers are a delight to grow. The blossoms can be used right off the plant, and with a little glue, they can spruce up picture frames, mirrors, shelves, and more.

Gardening offers us many opportunities to save money. Start planning next year's garden now. What do you plan to grow, and how do you plan to use what you grow? How frugal can you be?

Marie from West Dundee, IL

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Question:

Answer

Most commercial brands of food coloring use a dye form of FD&C Red No.3. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) discontinued the provision listing of FD&C Red No.3 for use in external drugs and cosmetics because one study of the color additive in male rats showed an association with thyroid tumors. When making this announcement, the FDA also indicated that any human risk posed by FD&C Red No. 3 was extremely small and that the provisional listing had been discontinued due to a specific legal mandate, rather than safety concerns. And although FD&C Red No. 3 remains permanently listed (approved) for use in food and ingested drugs, the FDA has announced its intent to propose rescinding those listings as well. Even if the FDA decides that FD&C Red No.3 remains safe for human ingestion, what's good for humans isn't always good for animals and birds.

The Audubon Society states (rather diplomatically) on their website that, "the current thinking is that food coloring may not be good for them, nor is it necessary to attract hummingbirds." Personally, this makes logical sense to me because in nature, natural flower nectar is clear, not red, and made up only of sugar and water. You can mix your own using 1/4-cup of sugar to every 1 cup of water.

The color of the red flowers (and your feeder) is enough to attract hummingbirds to the nectar. If your feeder isn't red or brightly colored, tie a bit of red ribbon to it to get the bird's attention.

Ellen

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As the air temperature cools, so does the temperature of the water in your pond. When average daily temperatures drop below 60-70º F, significant biological changes start to take place in aquatic plants and fish. Here are some tips for preparing your pond for winter.

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This question regards a houseplant. It is a peace plant that I have had for about seven months. It was repotted after several months. It looked healthy and beautiful for a long time, but somewhere along the line, I started over-watering it. Now, it is on its last legs. I removed all the old, dead growth underneath, replaced the top layer of soil with fresh potting soil in hopes that it would absorb some of the excess moisture, and punched holes in the soil to aerate it.

Is there any hope of reviving it?

Hardiness Zone: 4a

Thank you,
Barbara from St. Cloud, MN

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I have a very large crepe myrtle that doesn't bloom much but it's very tall and not bushy at all. What's the problem. My other crepes didn't bloom much this summer either.

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Shelah from Spring City, TN

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Has anyone in a climate like mine had any luck collecting red worms in the wild? I have read that a manure pile is a good place to look. But it is getting colder. Will they have dived for the center of the earth by now? I would love to have some little worms to nurture over winter, and to feed my kitchen scraps to. We're down to one chicken, and she's so overfed I don't know how she manages.

Hardiness Zone: 4b

Coreen Hart from Rupert, ID

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I have a beautiful flower bed and am having trouble keeping the weeds manageable. this is a direct sunlight area. What products do you suggest we use?

Hardiness Zone: 6b

Mikell from Klamath falls, Oregon

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How do I take a cutting of a rose bush branch for replanting?

Hardiness Zone: 5b

Gale from Missouri

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Is the vinegar, salt and soap weed killer harmful to pets? I would like to try it on my paved area however my puppy is likely to lick the area. Should I apply and then keep her away for a week? Hose it in after a few days?

Stacey from Australia

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How do I make my own compost?

Alamuki from Tacoma, WA

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I really like fresh pineapple, I was visiting an Island called St. Lucie and I ate the best pineapple I have ever had. Does anyone have suggestions on how I can start my own plant? I was wondering if I could use the top of a store bought pineapple and do like a potato to start it, but I do not know if it would work. Thanks for any ideas you may have.

Hardiness Zone: 8b

Rodney from Dallas, TX

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I have several Crape Myrtles in which the under side of the leaves have a light to medium brown suede type scale on them. Almost the entire underside of the leaf is affected. The affected leaves have a tendency to invert showing the underside to the sky. Any idea what this might be?

Hardiness Zone: 9a

Sincerely,
Steve from Temecula, CA

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Does anyone have information about Madagascar Grapes? Information about the seeds, growing instructions, can it grow in Texas heat and black soil, etc.?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Lynda from TX

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Can you use shredded paper as media to grow plants?

Hardiness Zone: 5b

Marlena from East Berlin, PA

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I planted potatoes in pots on my balcony. They are now over a metre and a half high but have not bloomed. There are 5 plants, only one has had 3 blooms. I planted them in July. They just won't stop growing. Is there a problem?

sishuba

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How do I stop a pine tree from dripping sap?

Hardiness Zone: 6b

Isap from New York, NY

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How can I save bulbs from Caladiums and Elephant Ears to use next year? My elephand ears are still HUGE! They are larger now than in the pic.

Hardiness Zone: 7a

Elaine from Charlottesville, VA

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Our lawn is full of dandelion, clover and what I believe it is creeping charlie. What can I use that is homeade that will help to get rid of these without killing the grass?

Hardiness Zone: 5b

Midge from Buffalo, NY

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I ran across this beautiful fall foliage in Minnesota the other day. These trees are normally a burgandy to green color, but have turned red in the fall. Can anybody tell me what type of tree this is? They look to be about 4-5 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide, with no trimming needed. The leaves are oval shaped, being about 1 to 1 1/2 long. Some (not all) of the branches almost look like a stalk of Rhubarb, and feel sort of crispy to the touch. There are not any thorns on them, I've been asked that before. Thanks in advance!

By Julie from North Dakota

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How can I keep a Sweet Gum tree from making seed balls? I have five or six around my yard and pick up 10 to 15 wheelbarrow loads each spring.

Tom from Winston Salem N.C.

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Question:

Hardiness Zone: 7a

P.J. from Delaware

Answer:

When to "Deadhead" hydrangeas (remove the spent blooms) depends on who you ask. Some gardeners take off the heads in the late fall, while others feel the timing is unimportant and that removing the spent blooms can be carried out at any time without harming next year's blooms as long as you remove them with short enough stems so that you don't disturb the developing buds.

Personally, I prefer to leave the dried flower heads on my hydrangeas. Here is why. First off, I think the dried flower heads add a bit of interest to my winter garden. Secondly, it's possible that the dried flower heads provide a certain degree of protection to next year's buds. Granted, this protection is limited at best, but it sure can't hurt. I remove my spend blooms in the spring, as soon as new buds appear, by cutting the spent blooms on their stalks back to the uppermost pair of new buds, being careful to avoid damaging any of the new shoots.

Ellen

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I have heard that there is a type of Canadian grass that produces a thick, lush, and hardy lawn. It is supposed to crowd out crabgrass. What is the name of it and where is the best place or website to purchase it at?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Vanet from Saugerties, NY

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Crafting for Fun and Money!

If you are an avid crafter, capable writer and own a digital camera, you are eligible to participate. Submit your craft projects to ThriftyFun and we will pay $15 for any crafts that we publish.

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Garden Rue is primarily grown as a garden ornamental. One advantage to Rue is it's usually successful where other plants fail to grow. At its mature height, the rue is 18 to 36 inches tall with green to blue-green foliage (some varieties with creamy flecks) and small, bright yellow flowers. The rounded leaves have a bitter taste and pungent scent that many people find unpleasant.

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Sage is actually classified as a dwarf, semi-evergreen sub-shrub, but most gardeners think of it as a classic herb that forms tidy mounds of aromatic foliage. Most cultivars grow 18-24 inches high. Classic cultivars have velvety grayish-green foliage and spikes of petty blue to pale purple flowers that appear in the late spring and early summer. Other varieties are available with multi-colored or deep purple leaves and various shades of white or pink flowers.

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These pale green or black, stubby little maggots tunnel through leaves and cannot be seen with the naked eye, but the visible spaghetti-like patterns on the topsides of leaves are easy to identify. Eggs are laid in clusters on the undersides of leaves by tiny black flies. As many as three to four generations of flies can hatch per year. Hatching maggots burrow into the leaves to feed and then drop to the ground and pupate.

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Rosemary is an important culinary herb and should be included in every herb garden. Besides Rosemary's many culinary and medicinal properties and its many household uses, its trusses of blue flowers nestled among pine needle-like leaves are an attractive ornamental shrub for perennial borders and beds. Rosemary grows tall and erect or bushy and compact depending on the variety.

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