ThriftyFun News
Volume Seven, Number 37 October 21, 2005
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Hello,
This week we have some Gardening Q and A with Ellen Brown. There are some answers to recently submitted requests. We also have included an article that Ellen has written about Hardiness Zones. It explains what Hardiness Zones are and why they are useful. We have added a Hardiness Zone field to our Gardening request page which helps Ellen and other community members provide feedback that will be relevant to your zone. To submit a Gardening (or Green Living) request for Ellen and the ThriftyFun Community, visit the link below:
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Next week's issue will be about preparing for winter. If you have any tips to help people prepare their home for winter, please submit them at the link below:
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Also, feel free to submit any last minute Halloween tips you have. For any Halloween (or Fall Decor) photo contest entries that are submitted before October 25th we will donate $3 to the American Red Cross to help with their hurricane relief efforts. You can submit a photo contest entry at the link below:
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Thanks for reading,
Susan
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Tips
Sticky Residue From Ficus Plant
Q: One of my ficus plants is leaving a sticky residue on the floor. Can I do something to eliminate what I am calling 'pitch' on the leaves and surrounding area from this ficus? And is this plant still healthy?
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Mrs Jean from Northern California
A: Jean,
The sticky residue you're seeing on your ficus leaves (and floor) is a common symptom of scale insect infestations. The sticky substance is the honeydew excreted by the insects feeding on the "sap" inside the leaves. These tiny insects (1/4 inch or less long) sometimes camouflage themselves to look like parts of the plant so they can be hard to see. They cause leaves to look shiny (from the honeydew) or sooty, and may cause leaves to turn a splotchy yellow color before they drop. The juvenile insects are the crawly feeder, while the adults insects will cover themselves with protective waxy coatings and appear as brown waxy bumps on the leaves.
Scale insects can spread to other houseplants so it's important to manage the problem. Insecticide soaps or horticultural oils can be effective for smothering the pests. Or try dipping a cotton swab into alcohol and rub the leaf to remove the insects (be careful not to damage the leaves). Whatever method you choose, take care to keep your pets safe from any chemicals and protect your floors and furniture from possible stains.
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Leaves Dying on an Avacado Plant
Q: We have an avocado plant started from seed, which is really shooting up. It has nice large leaves on it but the lower leaves keep turning, curling and dying off. No problem with new ones sprouting but why are the lower leaves turning? It is about 20-24" tall. Do we need to bring it in for the winter? What do I need to do to keep it alive thru the winter?
Hardiness Zone: 7a
Kimberlea from OK
A: Kimberlea,
Avocados lose their leaves for many reasons. Too much water and not enough sunlight can cause leaves to turn yellow and lower leaves to drop. If your plant continues to sprout new growth, I wouldnt worry. Avocados are also self-thinning. They naturally shed a large number of leaves during periods of rapid growth-especially older leaves. In nature, the leaf litter naturally composts beneath the tree, adding organic nutrients to the soil. If your avocado is getting tall and leggy, you can pinch back the stem a bit to encourage it to branch out. The most important element is to provide it with enough light.
As for keeping avocados outdoors during Oklahoma winters, it wont work. Youll need to bring your in. Avocados are sub-tropical plants native to southern Mexico. They need semi-humid climates and temperatures between 60°F-80°F. You can grow yours in a container and move it inside during cold weather. The cooler temperatures will signal a rest period for the plant. During this time place the plant in your coolest room with bright light (not in direct light) and reduce feeding and watering until you can return it to the outdoors.
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Lilies Won't Bloom
Q: I have two peace lilies that were given to me by a relative. One has struggled from the beginning. It wouldn't get any taller, only got new growth and bushed out. I transplanted it about 3 months ago and it started growing well. It is 3 times larger than before. My problem is that it is pale looking. Its leaves aren't as dark as the other one I have and it still hasn't bloomed. I have tried plant food. Neither one of them are in direct sunlight. They both get about 5 hours of sun in the afternoon. What else can I do?
Hardiness Zone: 8b
Krys from Milton, Florida
A: Krys,
The pale color of your peace lily may be a symptom of one the following:
- Exposure to high temperatures (over 95°F) for a prolonged period
- Over watering (soil should be kept evenly moist)
- Soil kept too dry between watering
- A mineral deficiency caused by a build up of fertilizers salts. (Magnesium-Mg, Iron-Fe, Sulfur, or Manganese-Mn) Use a 3:1:2 fertilizer.
- Too much light. Afternoon sun (even when not direct) may be too bright. Try areas having 75%-80% shade in Florida.
Even with a healthy plant, transplanting can cause a temporary lack of flowers while the plant focuses its energy on growing new roots. Plants younger than a year old also usually lack flowers.
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Hydrangea Never Blooms
Q: I'm not having any luck getting my hydrangea to bloom. It forms the flower heads, but only 1 or 2 of the flowers open. What can I do to make it bloom like it should? I've had it for at least 7 years, and it has never bloomed.
Hardiness Zone: 3b
Eleanor from Duluth, MN
A: Eleanor,
There are a few reasons your hydrangeas may not be blooming. Because you live in Duluth, MN, I'm going to assume you're growing one of the hydrangea types best prepared to survive Minnesota winters. Hydrangeas prefer rich, well-drained, consistently moist soil. The varieties hardy to Minnesota do best in light sun to partial shade. They typically need at least a little morning sun and some afternoon shade. The more cool morning sun they get the better they bloom. If you think these basic needs are being met, your lack of blooms may be due to improper fertilizing or pruning. Excessive nitrogen fertilizers will keep the hydrangeas energy focused on roots and stems, instead of flowers. With the exception of Hydrangea macrophylla, most hydrangeas grown where you live bloom on new wood, and should be pruned in the spring. Pruning in summer, winter or fall removes next year's blooms.
If you're growing the type of hydrangea that blooms on old wood, pruning too hard will also keep plants from blooming. In this case, prune back to just above the second or third node from the base of the plant in the fall after a killing frost. This type of hydrangea is also less winter hardy and may need to be protected from freezing and thawing with mulch. The most common reason this type of hydrangea doesn't flower is due to winter damage, even though foliage appears healthy the following season.
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Hibiscus Not Growing
Q: I have an Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon) tree. We received it in the mail in March. It really took of after being in the ground for about 3 weeks. It bloomed, and started growing new branches. But it is at a stand still now. It hasen't grown since about 2 months ago. Is this it's way of protecting it from the cold?
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Lorraine from Zolfo Springs, FL
A: Lorraine,
Here are a few of possibilities:
1. Have you been fertilizing it regularly? Hibiscuses are heavy feeders and need a little bit of low phosphorus fertilizer every 2-3 weeks until their dormant period. They should also be planted in well-drained soil that is neither too moist nor too dry.
2. Is it dropping a few leaves? If so, this is an indicator that it may be going into a dormancy period. Back off on the fertilizer and water it only enough to keep it from drying out. Resume a normal schedule when you see signs of new growth. Yours may just be taking a break.
3. The Rose of Sharon doesn't grow best in your zone. The Florida heat can actually be quite hard on it. Unlike other hibiscus, Rose of Sharon should not be planted in full sun in Florida. Plant it in partial shade or under taller plants that will filter out some of the sun. If yours is in full sun, consider transplanting it to a different location.
Above all else, the Rose of Sharon has a slow to moderate growth rate. If yours is still green be patient, it will come back.
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Gardenia Won't Bloom
Q: I am trying to get my 2nd gardenia plant to bloom. The first one died. Please help! First, small blossoms form, turn black and drop off. I mist it, and give it lots of light. What am I doing wrong?
Hardiness Zone: 7b
Judy from Portland, OR
A: Judy,
Gardenias can have problems with blossom drop, especially when grown indoors. Besides too little light and humidity (which doesnt sound like the problem with yours) flower buds can drop from over OR under watering, high temperatures or improper pruning (on outdoor plants). Gardenias also need acidic soil and can benefit from a good azalea fertilizer once per month during the summer. Azalea fertilizer contains sulfur, which helps acidify the soil.
For indoor gardenias, place your plant where it will get plenty of light during spring and fall bloom times. Nighttime temperatures should be about 55°F. Make sure the soil stays lightly moist (not wet) and keep the air around the plant humid.
If your gardenia is kept outdoors, prune it only to keep the shape of the plant and do it immediately after the plant finishes blooming.
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Planting Fruit Trees in The Fall
Q: I want to plant lilacs and also some fruit trees. Do you do that in the fall?
Hardiness zone: 6b
Linka from Garrett Indiana
A: Linka,
Fall is the best time to plant lilacs. They have a better chance to establish roots before leafing out in the spring. Do it after the leaves have dropped, but before the ground freezes. You can also plant them in the spring, if you do it before new buds start to open.
In your zone, fruit trees can be planted in early spring or fall, although planting in early spring is better. As the trees emerge from their dormancy period, new growth will be equally vigorous above and below ground. If you wait until later in the spring, make sure you look for trees to transplant from containers (like those found at local nurseries) rather than planting the bare-root trees you get via mail order. Bare-root trees will still just be coming out of dormancy and will have less time to "wake-up" and adjust before getting hit with the stresses of summer growth.
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Get Into Your Growing Zone - USDA Plant Hardiness Zones Explained
By Ellen Brown As every gardener knows, different plants are adapted to growing well in specific climates. An orange tree will not tolerate a Minnesota winter (outdoors anyway) any more than Arizona's Saguaro cactus will tolerate the warm humid conditions of Florida. Plant hardiness zones help to define the optimum growing climates for particular groups of plants. By knowing what hardiness zone you live in, you can properly select the plants that are best suited to your growing conditions.
Plant Hardiness Zones Defined
In the Mid-1900s, the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) drew up a map that included 11 different plant hardiness zones for the United States, Mexico and Canada. Zones were defined by average annual minimum temperature. A 10 degree F difference separated each zone. The map was originally created for the agricultural industry as a tool to help farmers select hardy plant varieties, but it also works for our native landscapes and gardens today.
Over the years, there have been several updates to the map. In 1990, each numbered zone was further sub-divided with the letters "a" and "b", representing the low and high end of the temperatures within each 10º F zone ("a" the low end, "b" the high end). In general, higher zone numbers are warmer.
Most major nurseries and seed companies use the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map when labeling their horticultural products for consumers, but make sure the products you purchase or order through the mail are actually suited to your zone. This is especially true when buying plants from chain brand discount stores with garden centers. They sometimes offer the same plants for sale in all their stores nationwide.
What the Zone Map Can Tell You
The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map can tell you the "average" minimum temperatures in your zone. This date has been acquired from years of weather records and is particularly useful for planting trees, shrubs and perennial plants. When a plant has been labeled for zone 5, for example, it means it has adapted well to withstand the minimum average temperature (-20°F) in zone 5. This does not necessarily mean that if you live in warmer zone 9, that you are automatically safe to grow to grow this same plant. There is no doubt that the same plant will survive zone 9's lowest average annual temperature, but mere survival does not guarantee good performance. Instead, the warm temperatures and humidity of zone 9 that prove fatal.
What the Zone Map Can't Tell You
The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is a useful guide, but it is only one small part of the picture. There are several other factors to consider:
Growing Season (Frost Dates): One of the most important factors for determining which plants are most suited to your area is your growing season. A growing season is defined by the total number of frost-free growing days. This is especially important to know when growing vegetables and annuals. If you live in zone 2 for example, seeds that need longer than 90 days to grow (total number of frost free days) will need to be started indoors. Frost dates can also vary significantly depending on the topography of your area. If you live high on a hill, or deep in a valley, your frost dates may be different than your fellow gardeners across town.
Environmental Factors: Wind, soil type, moisture, sunshine, heat, humidity, fertility, drainage and day length all have an effect on growth performance.
Fooling Mother Nature
 It's not nice to fool Mother Nature, but for gardeners in cooler zones, it isn't uncommon to experience a little "zone envy" once in awhile. Plants may or may not survive in zones warmer or cooler than they are rated for, but there are ways to "stretch" your zone by sneaking in a few extra growing days.
Hot caps, row covers and blankets can be used to ward off early or late frosts and squeeze in a few more days on either end of the season.
Cold frames or starting seeds indoors will accelerate germination by several weeks and provide protection against cold temperatures.
Greenhouses are perhaps the best way to create a frost free zone year round.
Get Ready for a New USDA Map
Many factors influencing plant winter hardiness have changed since the last USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map was updated in 1990. Having received a grant from the USDA, the United States National Arboretum is currently in the process of creating a new and improved (and more accurate) version of the Plant Hardiness Zone Map. This new map will expand the zones to 15 and will document the tolerances of plants taking into consideration several 21st century factors. The map will factor in global climate change, new plant stressors (acid rain, outdoor security lighting, chemical pollution) advances in plant management (new fertilizers, planting techniques and pest control), advances in plant breeding and our increased use of artificial environments (malls, urban expressways, elevated decks).
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