October 26, 2006

Happy Garden Newsletter - October 26, 2006


Volume 1, Number 40, October 26, 2006
http://www.ThriftyFun.com

Hello,

This week we have articles about Selecting & Carving Pumpkins for Halloween and Starting A Garden Journal, as well as more answers to your questions.

Happy Gardening!

Susan

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Today's Tips and Articles

Keeping Weeds out of Flower Beds

Question:

How can I, a physically disabled women, keep grass and weeds out of my front flower bed (consisting of over 200 gladiola bulbs). The flower bed is surrounding my front deck. Also, I have many other plants and flowers throughout the yard? The grass, weeds and wire grass just about ate them all up this past year.

There is too much demand on our watering supply to water daily, so I had a deep layer of mulch (that the bulbs wear planted/set into which would and did retain the moisture for the flowers).

I hired help to plant the bulbs in mulch that had been sitting for a two to four years BUT the grass, weeds etc. came up making the flower beds looking nasty/dirty and unkept.

I do not recall my grandparents having any trouble with their bulbs being over run by grass and weeds. Perhaps I was too young to notice them out daily weeding to notice why their flower beds always looked fantastic!

Please help with some sort of deterrent for me to use for this problem.

Laying a layer of water soaked newspaper and covering it with more mulch was suggested to stop the weeds/grass from growing. I haven't tried this yet, has anyone of you done this sort of thing or anything else to be a deterrent to weeds & grass growing in the flower beds?

Any help or suggestion will be greatly appreciated and used next spring in 2007 as I am sure that the over 200 gladiola bulbs will nearly double (or I am hoping they will).

Thanks and God bless you & yours.

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Paula

Answer:

Hi Paula,

Smothering weeds by using layers of newspapers, cardboard or a thick layer of mulch is certainly one suggestion I would recommend for keeping your plantings from becoming overrun by weeds. If you use organic mulch, like wood chips, leaves, pine needles or compost, you'll need to apply it at least 3 to 4 inches thick and select a type of material that will neutralize the pH of your soil. I would avoid using straw, because it often contains weed seeds, which will only make your job that much harder.

Another strategy you might consider is to crowd out the weeds by planting a ground cover once your glad bulbs pop through. Not only will a ground cover help crowd out the weeds and prevent them from getting sun, but the right ground cover plants will also provide some interest until your gladiolus get into full swing. You might even consider trying a dwarf grass for this purpose.

There are also several lightweight tools available that are designed specifically to make gardening chores easier for the physically disabled. These include long-handled tools with clip-on, twist-on or snap-on heads that allow gardeners to work from a seated position. Many come with cushioned, adjustable handles that are ergonomically designed for a firm, stress-free grip. A long-handled cutter or shears would allow you to keep the weeds trimmed down around your bulbs for a tidier look.

Another option I would urge you to consider is to contact your county extension agency about the possibility of getting help from your county or state's Master Gardener program. These programs are often looking for volunteer gardening opportunities for their members to participate in. Other groups that may be able to offer you volunteer assistance are 4-H groups, Boy Scout or Girl Scout Troops, school groups or church groups.

Finally, here is a good link to information on gardening for the disabled.

http://livingwell.tripod.com/handigardning.html

Ellen

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Getting Rid of Creeping Charlie

Question:

I don't know how to get rid of creeping charlie without killing what's left of my grass. This stuff is horrible. Please help me save my lawn.

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Trisha from Ontario Canada

Answer:

Trisha,

This is never the popular answer, but my personal recommendation is to try to control Creeping Charlie by pulling it out. You probably won't completely eliminate it this way, but you can certainly keep it under control, and your yard and garden will be healthier for it. Pulling can be done by hand or you can use a spading fork or dethatching rake. The best time to jump start this project is late summer or early fall. Pre-moistening the soil will make it easy to lift the plants out.

Many well-intentioned folks (including some nurseries) may suggest using Borax to get rid of Creeping Charlie. I don't recommend it, and here's why. The University of Minnesota and Iowa State University have both conducted studies on using boron, a chemical contained in household Borax, to control Creeping Charlie. As a micronutrient, boron helps plants transport sugars. Studies have found that giving small amounts of excess boron to Creeping Charlie has a toxic effect on the plants. The problem is that applying it is a total crapshoot. No one recipe will work on every lawn due to the varying levels of boron found in individual sites. Without a soil test, it's extremely easy to apply too much. An over-application will burn your lawn and will injure (and/or kill) surrounding plants. Even if it works, it doesn't guarantee that Creeping Charlie will never show up again. Your best defense against Creeping Charlie and other weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn through good cultural practices.

Ellen

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Pruning a Brunfelsia

Question:

What is the best way and when do you prune a Brunfelsia. Mine is in a large pot, about 7 years old and is in need of pruning.

Hardiness Zone: 9a

Thanks,
Adrianne from Houston, TX

Answer:

Adrianne,

How and when you prune your Brunfelsia depends on when it flowers and what you are trying to achieve with your plant (thinning, rejuvenating, etc.) If your plant is getting tall and lanky, you might want to rejuvenate it by reducing its overall size. This is usually done over a period of three years, cutting no more than 1/3 of the branches back by 1/3 to 1/2 of their current length each year to keep the plant looking as natural as possible and retaining at least 2/3 of it's flowering branches.

If you want to thin your Brunfelsia, you'll need to prune select branches all the way back to the trunk. This will let more light in, and increase air circulation. Remove any dead or diseased branches first and then work your way around the plant so you retain its overall shape.

The best time to prune is immediately after your Brunfelsia flowers.

Ellen

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Orchids Not Blooming

Question:

I have several orchids that bloomed beautifully in my other home but since I move they just send out green and don't bloom. Is there something I can do to jump start the bloom process? I have them under artificial light in the winter, sitting in a tray of pebbles so I can regulate humidity and summer them in a protected spot in the garden for the summer. I also have stems that appear dead and dried but then green shoots will come out. Should I trim off the stems that appear spent?

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Roberta from China, ME

Answer:

Roberta,

If your orchids are sending out plenty of green shoots and seem healthy otherwise, my guess is that they are either not getting enough light, or that they are still adjusting to their new living conditions. Even slight changes in growing conditions can get these sensitive plants temporarily off track. Are they getting the exact same exposure to light and nighttime air temperature as they did in your previous home? You didn't say exactly how long ago you moved, or what type of orchids you're growing, so I'll have to generalize a bit here. Leaf color can be a good indicator of light conditions. Are their leaves the same shade of bright green that they were in your other home, or have they darkened a bit? Although this varies a bit by species, a vibrant, bright green leaf color generally indicates ample light exposure. Leaves turn darker in response to less light. Orchids also need a slight drop in nighttime temperatures in order to stimulate blooming. Check to make sure daytime temperatures are at least 65-70ºF and nighttime temperature drop to about 55-60ºF. I would recommend going easy on the fertilizer until you are sure you are satisfying all of your orchids other growing requirements. It's much easier to kill them with kindness (overfeeding and overwatering) than from neglect. If you are satisfied they are getting enough light and an 8 to 10 degree change in nighttime temperatures, you might try giving them a 1/2 strength liquid fertilizer with every other watering.

Good luck!

Ellen

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Starting A Garden Journal
By Ellen Brown

If you don't already keep one, fall is a great time to consider starting a garden journal. Now that things are winding down for most gardeners, you may be able to find a little more time to organize your thoughts and reflect on the successes and disappointments of the past season. A garden journal doesn't need to be complicated, but you'll find that keeping a few records from year to year can be rewarding as well as saving you a lot of time and frustration.

The Best Kind of Garden Journal (In My Humble Opinion)

There are probably as many types and styles of garden journals to choose from as there are gardeners . I think the most important aspect to remember when selecting or creating your journal is practicality. I'm not suggesting that style isn't important. It's wonderful if you find a journal that's aesthetically pleasing to you, but if it's not functional, it isn't really practical. It's my humble opinion that a simple three-ring binder makes the best garden journal. It's cheap and easy to create, and it allows for flexible record-keeping (you can add lined paper, graph paper, pockets, dividers and photo pages). If you're worried about aesthetics, there are binders available with clear pockets on the front and back covers allowing you to personalize it according to your style. Another plus is durability-you can take it with you outside-a big advantage for those of us who seem to forget our thoughts on the walk from the garden to the back door.

Free Journal Templates

If you like the idea of using pre-printed forms for record keeping, most software for the home office (like MS Office or MS Works) comes with some type of feature that will let you create journal pages or spreadsheets from pre-designed templates. There are also several free sources available on the web. Here are two links to get you started:

More Ideas For Journals

  • Personal Diaries
  • Photo or Shoe Boxes (like a garden "junk" drawer).
  • Garden Blogs (You can start one here at Thriftyfun.com)
  • Computer Software (I like the simple, yet useful features that come with the My Garden Journal Record Keeping Software For Gardeners. http://www.mygardenjournal.com/index.html You can download it and play with it for 30 days. If you decide you like it, you can purchase the license to keep it for $14.95).

The Nuts and Bolts of Record Keeping

The first rule of keeping a garden journal is that there are no rules! It can be as easy or as complicated as you want to make it. Besides, if you're like most gardeners, you would probably rather be spending time out in the garden than taking copious notes in a journal. Even so, recording a few key bits of information can save you a whole lot of time and frustration in the long run and help you maximize the enjoyment you get from all of your hard work each year. Because conditions can vary so much even within each growing region, your own records will always be your best source of information.

Key data to record:

  • Planting & Transplanting Dates (don't forget to record locations!)
  • Harvesting dates
  • Soil Treatments (fertilizer applications/quantities, modifications, fertility & pH)
  • Weather Conditions (abnormal patterns, frost dates, rainfall amounts)
  • Growth Observations (flower and fruiting details)
  • Pest & Disease Problems (dates, damage and management solutions)
  • Month By Month "To-Do" List (pruning, fertilizing, planting, etc.)
  • Plant & Seed Inventory (including planting and growing information)
  • Successes & Failures (what worked and what didn't)
  • Supplier notes (receipts, warranties, etc.)
  • Shopping list (tools, accessories)

Not-So-Key Data (but still fun!):

  • Useful book and web resources
  • Recipes & craft ideas
  • Inspirational thoughts
  • Equipment service records (oil changes, belts, blade sharpening, etc.)
  • Supplier information (helpful contacts, bad experiences, etc.)
  • Costs
  • Gardening events (plant sales, seed swaps, extension classes, tours.)
  • Wish list
  • Stories and jokes
  • Visits to other gardens & visitors to yours (including wildlife)

Photojournalism

Photos are a wonderful way to streamline your record keeping, document your observations and tell your garden's story. Set aside some pages in your journal (or in a photo album or on your computer) to keep pictures of your garden's progress.

Ideas for photos:

  • Before and after pictures (plantings, seasonal changes, landscaping projects)
  • Insects, diseases and weeds you want to identify
  • Blooming flowers and vegetable crops
  • Visitors (family, friends, pets, wildlife)
  • Favorite flowers, birds, butterflies and other garden critters

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Patio Vegetable Garden

Question:

My husband and I recently moved to an apartment. I am seeking ideas for inexpensive vegetable patio gardening. There isn't much direct sunlight on our patio.

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Michelle from Dallas, TX

Answer:

Michelle,

Growing vegetables on your patio certainly doesn't need to be expensive. The lack of sunlight, however, could prove to be a problem. For successful growth, most vegetables will need a minimum of 5 hours of direct sunlight a day. Some will need even more. "Leafy" vegetables (cabbage, lettuce) will tolerate the least amount of light, but vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers and carrots will need more sun. You'll have to experiment to see what grows best. To maximize the light you have, use strategically placed shiny materials and light colored rocks around your containers to reflect light back onto the plants.

The most inexpensive way to start vegetables is from seed. Varieties labeled "patio, bush, or dwarf" are often bred specifically for container gardening. Saving seeds from year to year will cut down on expenses even further, but you'll need to start with heirloom seeds and avoid hybrids if you want offspring true to the parent plants.

Just about anything that can hold a soil can be fashioned into a container: pails, trashcans, dishpans, plastic detergent or cat litter containers (cut down), wooden or wicker baskets, or even old leather or rubber boots. I like containers made from plastic materials, even though they tend to deteriorate over time with repeated sun exposure. They don't dry out as fast a terra cotta, transfer heat or rust like metal, and you can usually recycle them when you're done using them. If you use plastic containers, try not to spend much on them. Crops with shallow roots, like radishes, beets and onions, will grow just fine in old cake pans. Provide cages or trellises for climbers like beans, peas and cucumbers to save space, or plant them in hanging baskets and let their vines trail downward. If you don't have anything suitable on hand, shop around at flea markets, rummage sales or dollar stores. Make sure your containers have adequate drainage holes on the bottom.

In regards to a growing medium, plan on using a very light soil or a soil-less mix-something that will drain rapidly, yet hold nutrients and keep the plant's roots consistently moist. You'll need to water your vegetables daily and feed them frequently with a 1/2 strength liquid fertilizer like fish emulsion.

Ellen

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Take a Trip to the Pumpkin Patch
By Susan Sanders-Kinzel

Here are some links to a few pumpkin patches. Pumpkin Patches are great not only for pumpkins but other fall crops as well. If you have one near you, please post it in the feedback and we'll add it to the list. We went to one last year for my grandson's birthday and had a blast!

Here's the story and pictures about our trip last year:

Our Trip to the Pumpkin Patch

Arizona

California

Georgia

Illinois

Minnesota

Missouri

Nebraska

New Mexico

Oregon

Texas

Virginia

No doubt there are many, many more. This was all we had time to find. If you know of one in your area, post it below or if you own a pumpkin patch, let us know and we'll add it to the list.

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Transplanting a Butterfly Bush

Question:

I don't know if this has already been answered in the archives, but can you transplant a butterfly bush in the fall, or should I wait till spring.

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Peggy from Chillicothe, OH

Answer:

Peggy,

In your zone, transplanting can be done in either the spring or the fall. If you decide to transplant it in the fall, wait until the foliage dies back. Although the plant is entering a dormant state above ground, the temperature of the soil will stay warm a while longer and the roots will continue to remain active. This allows the roots enough time to become established, which will get them off to a faster start once warm weather rolls around again in the spring.

For gardeners in colder zones, it's probably best (and safest) to wait until the spring for transplanting due to the probability of unpredictable fall weather. Plants should be moved before new growth gets started. Butterfly Bushes are pretty tough, so if you are desperate to transplant one in the fall, go for it.

Ellen

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Selecting & Carving Pumpkins for Halloween
By Ellen Brown

Halloween has become a huge holiday. According to a survey conducted by the National Retail Federation, consumers spent $3.29 billion dollars on Halloween in 2005. Of that $3.29 billion, $840 million was spent on decorations-second only to Christmas in holiday home decor. Talk about frightening! Even with all newfangled lighting effects, fog machines and animatronics designed to create hair-raising effects, a carved pumpkin is still the best and least expensive way to create a haunting Halloween scene.

Here are some tips for selecting and carving the perfect Jack-O-Lantern.

Selecting the Perfect Pumpkins

  • Before you select your pumpkins, decide on your carving design and your Halloween decorating goals. Do you need several pumpkins of a uniform size to line your walkway or a trio of pumpkins to create a display on your porch? Make a list of your needs before you go shopping so you can select pumpkins in the sizes and shapes that best fit with your decorating plan.

  • Shop early for the best selection. Store small pumpkins in the refrigerator and larger pumpkins in a cool, dry locations (e.g. basement or garage) until you're ready to carve them.

  • Look for fresh, firm pumpkins that are free from bruises or soft spots. They should be uniform in color and have at least one "good" side for display.

  • Select pumpkins that have a 2 to 3 inch stem. Pumpkins with small stems (or no stems) are more prone to decay.

  • If your pumpkin has the perfect shape except for a wobbly bottom, don't worry. When carving you can cut off the bottom to even it out and place the pumpkin over the light, rather than setting the light into it from above.

  • The texture of your pumpkin can play into your overall design. Pumpkins with a smooth surface are easier to draw on, while bumpy, wart-covered pumpkins lend to a more ominous feel.

  • To make cleaning less difficult, pick a pumpkin that is big enough to stick your fist into so you can remove the seeds and pulp easily.

Carving Tips & Tricks

  • Young children should be supervised at all times when carving pumpkins. Please keep them away from sharp tools. Most young children are more than happy to help design and clean the pumpkins and leave the carving portion of the project to the adults.

  • Most of the tools you'll need for carving are probably already in your kitchen or garage: spoons and scoops (for cleaning out the seeds and pulp), and assorted long-bladed knives and saws (for carving out various elements of your design). You will also need patterns (print them out or draw your own), tape (to tape patterns to pumpkins), grease pencils (to draw freehand patterns directly onto pumpkins) or nails/poker tools (to transfer stencils onto pumpkin) and newspaper to cover your work surface.

  • An alternative to carving is to paint your pumpkins using an assortment of post paints. Use freehand designs or "carve" out a stencil using black and yellow paint. You children may also enjoy covering their pumpkins with Halloween-themed stickers.

Jack-O-Lantern Lighting

  • Votive-sized candles are suitable for medium to large pumpkins. Tea lights can be used for smaller pumpkins. For a brighter light and longer burning time, keep candles in glass candle holders.

  • Never leave pumpkins containing burning candles unattended.

  • Never use candles to light artificial pumpkins.

  • Hardware stores and craft stores now carry many safe and convenient alternatives to candles. These include battery operated lights and strobe lights, "artificial candles," lights that change colors and high intensity glow sticks.

Keeping Pumpkins Fresh

  • After pumpkins are carved, coat them (inside and out) with a thin layer of petroleum jelly. This helps seal in moisture and help prevent the pumpkin from drying out so fast.

  • As an alternative to petroleum jelly, cover the pumpkin with plastic wrap or place it in a plastic bag and store it in the refrigerator or a cool room until you're ready to display it.

  • A shriveling pumpkin can be temporarily revived by soaking it in a bucket of cold water for a few hours.

  • The heat from lights and candles can dry out the inside of a pumpkin quickly. Make sure the design of your pumpkin allows for plenty of air flow to allow the excess heat to escape.

Pumpkin As Planters

pumpkin centerpiece
  • You don't have to carve a ghoulish face on your pumpkin in order to use it as a Halloween decoration. A hollowed-out pumpkin will easily hold a potted plant or a bouquet of fall flowers. Fill them with mums or orange, yellow and black pansies and use them on the front steps or as a centerpiece during your holiday parties.

Preparing & Freezing Pumpkin Meat

  • To prepare pumpkin meat for use in fall recipes, cut the pumpkin in half and remove the seeds and pulp. Cut the meat into large chunks and place them cut side down on a microwave-safe plate. Microwave on high for 15 minutes and check for doneness. Continue to cook on high at 1 to 2 minute intervals until the meat is tender. When cool enough to handle, remove the peel. Mash the remaining meat into a puree using a food processor, potato masher or food mill. Spoon one cup portions of the puree into rigid containers (leave 1/2 inch of headspace) and freeze at 0º F for up to 1 year.

Roasting Seeds

  • 2 C. pumpkin seeds (approximate)
  • 2 Tbsp oil or melted butter
  • 1 tsp salt (optional)

Preparation: Wash the seeds well and stir with oil in bowl. Spread out in a single layer on a cookie sheet. Sprinkle salt, garlic salt or Italian herbs on top if desired. Bake at 250 degrees F. until slightly brown, turning them over every half hour. When they're done, they'll be crunchy. Variations include soaking the seeds in butter, soy sauce or Worcestershire sauce for 1 hour prior to roasting.

Free Pumpkin Carving Stencils

A quick search on the web will turn up lots of links for free carving stencils. Here are a few to get you started:

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Transplanting Black-eyed Susans

Question:

When is a good time to transplant Black-eyed Susans?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Peggy from Chillicothe, OH

Answer:

Peggy,

A good rule of thumb to follow for transplanting perennials is if they bloom in the fall, divide and transplant them in the spring. If they bloom in the spring, divide and transplant them in the fall. Black-eyed Susans are one example of a perennial that stands up well to the stress of being relocated. Technically speaking, the best time to transplant them is when they are dormant (early spring or fall). This will cause them the least amount of stress. Planting them in the fall has its advantages, because it gives their roots time to become established before winter sets in, which will get them off to a faster start in the spring. Not-so-technically speaking, you can probably transplant Black-eyed Susans almost anytime as long as you do it during the coolest part of the day and give them plenty to drink. They may not bloom the first year after you transplant them, but they always seem to come around eventually.

Ellen

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New Requests

Growing Catnip Indoors

Would it be possible for me to grow catnip inside in the winter, so I could have a fresh supply for my cats all year round? And if so, what would be the proper procedure. Thank you so much for your advice.

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Linda from Sigourney, Iowa

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Information About Italian Parsley

Is Italian parsley a perennial? What can i do to protect it during the winter?

Hardiness Zone: 9a

d.fostrer from Portland, Oregon

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How many cantaloupes grow from a plant?

How many cantaloupes grow from a plant?

Hardiness Zone: 10a

Moises from Los Angeles, California

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Getting Rid of Sand Burrs

Can I kill sand burrs with gardening lime? If so, how much do I use for what size area? I can't burn them because they grow in my yard next to my house. What is my best solution?

Shanna from Bells, TX

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Caring for Container Strawberries During the Winter

I started strawberries in four layered pots. I don't know what to do with them for the winter? I'm thinking I will put them in my unheated garage, but the temperature will very a great deal; from 50 degrees F on a sunny afternoon to 32 degrees F at night? If I do put them in the garage should I cut the runners off?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Dick from Newport, PA

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Help My Cactus

I have a cactus that is dying. Normally, I dislike cacti, so I would throw it away. The problem is... my mom recently passed away, and it was her cactus, it has a lot of sentimental meaning. How can I save this cactus before it dies? It used to have about 10-15 stems that grew beautiful burgundy flowers. All that is left is 2 stems and no flowers!

Sandi from Canada

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When do I prune rose bushes?

When do I prune rose bushes?

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Ida from Newbern, NC

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Growing Spanish Moss

Can spanish moss be growen using the dry version that you can buy from hardware/craft stores? I was told at a green house that you can buy it dry and wet it and it will start growing. Is this true or am I going to have to order it?

Hardiness Zone: 7a

Samara from VA

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Growing Guides

Garden Insects: Chinch Bugs

This fast moving little bug is 3/16 to 1/8 of an inch long, with a black body and white, red or brown wings. Adults chinch bugs lay eggs in the soil in the spring after overwintering in the grass. The eggs hatch into small, legless nymphs that are pinkish in color and have a white band across their back. Thirty to forty days later nymphs turn into adult chinch bugs and produce another generation.

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Garden Insects: Cockroaches

Adult cockroaches are medium-sized insects, with a broad, flat shape and long antennae. Often confused with beetles, the cockroach's wings are membranous and they lack the thick, hard forewing of beetles. Nymphs (immature cockroaches) look similar to adult cockroaches but lack wings. All cockroaches are nocturnal and prefer warm, damp and dark environments. They will usually quickly run for cover when disturbed. Indoor cockroaches will infest any environment that has food preparation and storage areas or warm, damp areas like drains, basements or garages. Outdoor cockroaches tend to be found in sewers, or areas where livestock is produced, but have been known to move inside when the opportunity presents itself. Cockroaches reproduce very rapidly. One female and her offspring can produce over 800 cockroaches a year. Signs you have roaches include shed skin casts, accumulations of droppings (dark spots or greasy smears), egg cases and dead cockroaches.

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Growing: Scented Geranium

Scented Geraniums are hybrid cousins of the common garden Geranium. Most plants grow to a height of around 1 to 2 feet, but vary greatly in scent, foliage, flower color and even growing habits, depending on their variety. Like their popular cousins, Scented Geraniums grow well in pots and containers and make an attractive, aromatic addition to a sunny kitchen windowsill. Rose, lemon, nutmeg, orange, coconut, lime, apple and peppermint are just some of the more popular scents.

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