In this week's issue we have a great article by Ellen Brown about Troubleshooting Annuals. We also have Ellen's answers to numerous requests as well as six more Growing Guides.
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I bought a hibiscus plant at a flea market; the vendor told me it was a perenniel for our area of the country. She said that the "old wood" should not be cut back at the end of the season, it should be mulched for the winter months; in the spring the mulch should be removed and feeding should begin.
Around the end of June every year, beautiful red blooms appear. I water it with a weak tea solution at times and also put used coffee grounds around the base of the plant. It is flourishing in a whiskey barrel planter in the corner of my backyard deck.
Q: I need to kill many types of weeds growing in my horse pasture. I want to find something that is effective and safe for the horses. We are at an of altitude of 8500'.
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Molly from Boulder, Colorado
A: Molly,
I wouldn't even want to speculate on what type of weed killers (homemade or commercial) would be safe to use around your horses. The labels on some commercial herbicides recommend restricting grazing for two weeks after application, some 7 days and some have no restrictions at all. Even in the case of the so-called homemade "safe" remedies, some ingredients can be toxic to some animals. Fortunately for you, one of the world's premier equine veterinary hospitals (CSU) is located in your state. I would recommend calling them for more information.
Many of us depend heavily on the long lasting blooms of our annuals to carry the weight of the garden's color while our perennials come and go. Although usually much less troublesome than their perennial counterparts, annuals can suffer from a garden variety of maladies. If your annual display of annuals isn't working out like you planned, read on for some clues as to what might have happened.
Q: Does anyone know how to keep chipmunks and other small rodents out of patio pots and planters? I keep coming out to the patio to find my new plants and flowers strewn all over the deck and holes in the pots where some critter has been partying in my pots. I also have a ground hog who has taken up residence under my deck, and now has two babies. They're digging holes everywhere and eating my flowers. Does anyone have a noncommercial solution to this problem? Help!
Lori from Middleville, MI
A: Lori,
Since they can inflict quite a lot of damage and now there are three of them, I would recommend calling your local Department of Natural Resources for advice and information on how to relocate your ground hogs. They may recommend live-trapping the ground hogs and releasing them several miles away. There is also a granular product sold under the name of Shake Away that is supposed to act as a deterrent to ground hogs and other small animals. It contains the scent of predator urine (in this case, fox urine) and is supposed to be organic, safe for pets and odor-free to humans. I've never used it, but it's worth a try. You can purchase it online at www.critter-repellent.com . This same product is said to work for chipmunks, too. Placing dog or cat hair discreetly around your pots may help deter the chipmunks. Live-trapping is another option, but make sure you release them in an area where they won't become someone else's problem. If you have a kitty, teach them to bask in the sun on your patio on a tether. The chipmunks in my neighborhood eat seeds, corn and nuts from a tray beneath my birdfeeders. My birdfeeders are located on the opposite side of my house away from most of my gardens. This fact, along with strategically placing my cats on patrolling tethers, has worked well for me.
Q: I love the look and idea of bulbs but the bulbs I have planted only last a few weeks. I see other gardens as I am driving through town that have bulb plants spring, summer and fall. I simply love it.
What can I do to get these results? Are these specific bulbs I can purchase and plant?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thank you,
Mindy from Redmond, Oregon
A: Mindy,
There are long lasting bulbs (corms, tuberous-roots and rhizomes) for every season. The trick is planting them in succession (staggering plantings), planting them in large numbers (to make up for those that fail), and planting them at the appropriate time so that you have something blooming throughout the spring, summer and fall. Some bulbs are tender to your zone, meaning they have to be dug up, dried and over-wintered in above freezing temperatures. Other bulbs are winter hardy and can be left in the ground in the fall. Here are a few examples of bulbs for every season. Spring blooming bulbs are often planted in the fall, and summer and fall blooming bulbs are planted after danger of frost has passed in the spring. Unless otherwise stated, all are hardy to at least zone 5. Bulbs not hardy to zone 5 will need to be dug up and stored over winter.
Q: I have a hydrangea plant that is in its 3rd year. It gets mostly afternoon sun and morning shade. Why won't it bloom? My mom has one, too. We bought them together. She has blooms, I don't. I am jealous! Any advice?
Hardiness Zone: 4b
Lisa5 from Billings, MT
A: Lisa,
There are a couple of reasons your hydrangea may be failing to bloom. First off, compare the growing conditions of yours to that of your mothers. Do you offer yours the exact same light, soil, fertilization, winter protection, etc.? Do you seem to get a lot of dead wood each spring? If so, you may be losing the flower buds over winter and need to offer it some protection. You didn't mention what type of hydrangea you have, but if yours is a type that flowers on old wood, by pruning at the wrong times, you risk removing nest year's flower buds. To figure out what type of hydrangea you have and when to prune it, browse the information and pictures at www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com If you have been pruning or removing dead wood, leave your hydrangeas alone for a year and see what happens. Protect them over winter by surrounding the shrub with a cage made out of chicken wire and filling it will leaves. In the spring after danger of frost has passed, remove the cage and give the wood a chance to wake up (some types wake up more slowly). Apply a slow release organic fertilizer once in June or side dress with compost or well-rotted manure. Hydrangea's love water (hence the name hydro) and deep, less frequent watering is best. Finally, remember that like people, every plant is different. Your hydrangea just may take a little longer to establish itself before blooming.
Q: I cut down a Rose of Sharon bush that had become a tree (!), which was growing up against my house. Now I have "suckers" coming up through the ground in an area about 10 feet all around where it was! Help! They are impossible to pull out of the ground (long roots). Is there any way to get rid of them? I am unable to remove the root system from the Rose of Sharon since it is very deep and mainly under my house.
Hardiness Zone: 5b
Thanks!
Kathy from Indianapolis
A: Kathy,
While Rose of Sharon is beautiful to some gardeners, it is the bane of many others. The ROS suckers will eventually disappear, but it's going to require some patience and persistence on your part. It may take several seasons worth of yanking and digging, but eventually you'll win! Try removing them by digging down as far as you can and cutting them out. Another alternative is to keep mowing them down as they spring up. Eventually the roots will tire and stop sending up shoots. If you plan to turn the 10-foot area where the suckers keep popping up into flowerbeds, you might want to try to cut the suckers out, and then cover the area with several sheets of newspaper followed by a thick layer of mulch. This should help prevent new suckers from sprouting. If you want to plant the area, just push aside some mulch and pop the individual plants in.
Q: I have a question about everbearing strawberries. I have tried everything, but they do not produce strawberries all year long. Once they start too throw there chutes they quit producing. I get 1 batch from them and that is it. I have put pine needles around them and water them just about every day. Some of them are in sand with dirt mixed in, but I do have some in just dirt and they do the same. Do I let the chutes go or cut them off. What else can I do?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thank You,
Joyce wis from Janesville, WI
A: Joyce,
Everbearing strawberries usually produce two to three crops each season-one in the spring and another one or two smaller crops toward fall. Since you have already pinpointed that your plants stop producing when they start throwing out runners, I would definitely reel them in by cutting at least some of them off. Also make sure that you renovate your beds in the fall (set the lawn mower to 1 1/2 to 2 inches and mow down the leaves and stems) and add some compost over the entire bed. Try applying a fertilizer specially designed for fruit crops. It could be that your plants just don't have enough steam to produce a second crop. Did you train them the first season-forgoing berries for the first few months in favor of developing strong roots)? If not, maybe they didn't get a strong enough start to produce multiple crops. Depending on the age of your plants, not renovating the beds will result in a loss of productivity also. The University of Wisconsin Extension Office has a great publication entitled "Growing Strawberries in Wisconsin." You can download the pdf version free by searching for it on the web or visit http://www.uwex.edu/ces/pubs/ and search under the Horticulture link.
Q: I planted a garden with tomatoes and the last two nights we have seen little squirrels take off with some of the green tomatoes. I never knew they ate tomatoes let alone green ones. We have a lot of squirrel feeders that they eat from in our yard, so we know that they are not going hungry. Any advice?
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Thank you!
Jodi from Gary, Texas
A: Jodi,
Squirrels will eat just about anything in the garden. They seem to enjoy mixing it up once in a while and trying new things. Because they have already gotten a taste of your delicious tomatoes, it's unlikely that they are going to be leaving them alone anytime soon. There are a number of commercial sprays and home remedies you can try (hair around pots, cats or dogs in the yard, cayenne pepper spray, etc.), but your best strategy is to get yourself some cheap hardware cloth or chicken wire and create some cages to surround your tomatoes. Stake them to the ground with pieces of bent metal or wooden stakes. Make sure to cover the tops; otherwise the squirrels will use the cages like a ladder to climb up, over and inside. You mentioned you feed squirrels in your yard. Another strategy might be to beef up your feeders with something they find more attractive than the tomatoes, at least while your plants are bearing fruit (e.g. peanuts, peanut butter, corn cobs, etc.).
Q: A deer has sheared of all my hosta leaves, leaving just the stalks. Will the leaves grow back this year?
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Thank you,
Jean from West Dundee, IL
A: Jean,
As long as the deer left some stems, it's still early enough in the season that you'll probably see some leaves emerge in a few weeks. When they come back, they may not be as large as your originals were, but they will re-emerge next year as big as ever. Many hosta leaves suffer damage from things like slugs and hail storms during the summer. There are two schools of thought as to what you should do if your hosta leaves become damaged. Some sources suggest leaving whatever is left of the damaged leaves intact, not matter how unsightly, because they will help keep producing food for the hosta until its new leaves emerge. Other sources suggest cutting damaged leaves back to the stems (the stems will also continue to help produce food) as a way to "shock" the hosta into replacing its leaves more quickly. As long as the majority of the stem remains, both methods will work. How fast or if the leaves return is more dependant on how healthy the plant was to begin with and environmental factors like the availability of nutrients and water. You might also consider giving damaged plants a shot of alfalfa tea. Buy alfalfa pellets used for animal food at a local feed store. Dissolve 500mg to 600mg of pellets in a gallon of water for 48 hours (it will smell) and then pour it around your plants. The alfalfa contains triacontanol, which is a growth stimulant. You can use this tea on all of your plants every few weeks throughout the season. Hosta really seem to love it!
Q: I am having trouble with my rhubarb this year. It started out great and then I noticed I was not able to "pop" out the stalks; instead they would break off 2 or 3 inches from the bulb. Now the stalks are very long and thin with huge leaves and they are breaking off and rotting. I did notice quite a few ants by the bulbs which seems unusual to me as we have had so much rain.
Hardiness Zone: 6b
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
mi3kids from Slate Hill, NY
A: mi3kids,
I'm afraid your wet weather has probably been the cause of troubles for your rhubarb plants. Wet conditions can cause the plants to wilt and the roots to rot. There are three different species of fungi that cause crown rot. The infection usually shows up at the base of the stalks or just below the soil surface. In more severe cases the stalks develop lesions and appear brown and sunken, and the leaves may appear wilted and have water spots. Rotted crown tissue is usually firm and brown, but it can turn mushy if bacterial rot takes hold. In severe cases, plants that experience crown rot will die. If treated early with a fungicide, infected plants can often be saved. Hopefully your unusually wet weather will prove to be an anomaly; otherwise you may want to relocated your plants to higher ground or raise them up on mounds for next year. In your case, it sounds like you rhubarb is just exhibiting the signs of stress from excess moisture. In the meantime, remove any portions that appear rotted and keep your eyes open for signs of root rot.
Q: These are not little fruit type flies they are normal big black ones. Whenever I water my flowerbeds flies come out. I do not remember having this problem in past years. Is there something I can do or is this normal?
Brandi from Salt Lake City, UT
A: Brandi,
There are more than 100,000 types of flies. They may be showing up when you water for a variety of reasons-all considered normal. Certain flies like to breed in moist conditions. If you mulch around your plants, the flies may be attracted to the moisture from watering. Other flies may be preying on the insects that are inadvertently disturbed or washed off your plants while you water them. Watering may also trigger chemical scents on certain plants that some flies find attractive. Still others may simply be showing up for a drink. Whatever the reason they suddenly appear when you water; the flies usually won't be interested in your plants. They prefer "dead" food like manure, rotting plants and decaying organic matter found in nutrient-rich soil. Yearly populations can fluctuate with changing environmental conditions, and most flies complete their life cycle within a few weeks. As the season progresses, their populations will gradually diminish. Wear a hat and a good bug repellant to keep them at bay while you're watering the garden.
Q: My husband would like a recipe for making his own bug killer to use on tomatoes, potatoes and hostas. He would like a spray on pesticide if there is one available. Thank you so much.
Barb Zone: 4a
barbo37 from Fairview, MI
A: Barbo37,
There are many variations of this floating around in print and on the web, but here is another good all around recipe for repelling bugs:
1 cup liquid dish soap (or Murphy's Oil Soap or baby shampoo)
1 cup tobacco tea (3 fingers of chewing tobacco in a nylon stocking and soak it in a gallon of hot water until the mixture is dark in color)
1 cup antiseptic mouthwash
1/4 cup of Tabasco Sauce (or substitute chopped hot peppers)
Mix these ingredients in a 20-gallon hose end sprayer, filling the rest of the sprayer with water, and spray your plants. You can also reduce these measurements down to proportions that suit a hand held spray bottle. Slugs and snails love hosta, but they detest crossing sharp surfaces because it causes them injury. Prevent them from climbing up hosta plants by sprinkling eggshells or diatomaeous earth around the base. Round sandpaper disks also work well for this purpose. Cut a slit in used disks and wrap them around stems.
Q: My basil looks as though it is going to flower. Can this process be halted by cutting off the brackets or is this useless?
Hardiness Zone: 8a
Thanks,
Holly from Richardson, TX
A: Holly,
Basil is somewhat prone to bolting and going to seed, especially in warm weather. The seed heads actually increase the amount of volatile oils in the plant's leaves, so culinary basil needs to be harvested before the flower stalk is produced for the best flavor and the longest shelf-life. Bolting is usually the result of elevated temperatures or due to stress from harvesting large amounts of foliage at one harvest. If more than 1/3 to 2/3 of the leaves are taken at one time (especially during warm temperatures) the plant can be induced into premature bolting. To avoid this, harvest 1/3 to 2/3 of the upper portion of the plant and pinch back the stems to encourage leafy growth. You can also cut the entire stem back to one or two pairs of leaves, although sometimes causes re-growth to bolt early. It's worth noting that there are now basil varieties less resistant to early bolting.
Q: Calla Lilies in my yard are growing 4 feet tall but as soon as they bloom the flowers turn brown. I'd also like to dig them up and move to them another location in my yard. When should I dig them up? How can I prevent them from browning? And how do I get them to grow tall and straight?
Hardiness Zone: 10a
Thank you in advance!
Windella From Pasadena, CA
A: Windella,
There are several things I don't know about your situation, so I'll do my best to speculate. Callas are native to swampy marshlands and need a lot of water, so make sure you are keeping their soil moist at all times. Morning sun and afternoon shade is the ideal, and apply a light organic fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks during the active growing period, or simply side dress them with compost or well-rotted manure in the spring. You don't mention what color callas you are growing, but yellow and pink tend to be fussier than white and can be more difficult to grow. Some calla lilies exhibit a high sensitivity to salt (brown tips). Do you soften your water or use water with a fairly high salt content? If so, try switching to distilled water and see if that makes a difference. Floppy stems are usually the result of intense heat or underdeveloped root systems. In the late summer, callas naturally die back and more into a dormant period. Depending on the growing zone, this can last about 90 days. This rest period is the best time to transplant them.
Q: Yesterday evening I discovered a young rabbit in my back yard. I figured it was responsible for the eaten plants in my gardens. I just discovered five or six tomatoes had been partially eaten, one almost completely finished and some had a single bite. I took photos and there are distinct teeth marks that look like the front teeth of a rabbit. I live in a subdivision that's two years old and this is the first time it's happened. What should I do? I don't want to lose my veggies to a bunny.
Hardiness Zone: 9a
Limner from Katy, TX
A: Dear Limner,
The most effective long-term way to control rabbits is to fence off individual plants or erect a small fence around the entire garden. Chicken wire is inexpensive and can be effective at keeping out other small critters, too. You said the rabbit you discovered is young. Since rabbits are such a prolific species, it's likely that there are other young brothers and sisters nearby.
Rabbits are sometimes difficult to live trap in the summer because of an abundance of available food. Try baiting your traps with fresh vegetables like carrots, lettuce, cabbage, Brussels sprouts or apples. You might consider sprinkling a few drops of vanilla or apple cider around the trap to mask any residual human scent. Live trapping can be an effective short-term solution, but keep in mind that when you empty a habitat of one animal, another from the outer fringes tends to move in to take advantage of the opening near the food source. This is why residential hunting of squirrels in some parts of the country seldom works-at least not for long. Removing the "inner-city" squirrels only creates the competition for the "country" squirrels, which eventually migrate into the city to set up residence near the food supply.
Q: My Grandma is having trouble with Grubs eating her Marigolds does anyone have something that you can use from your kitchen(home remedy) that might help her with this problem? Thanks!
Mandi from Erie
A: Mandi,
There are not really any home remedies for controlling grubs, other than waiting until it rains and stomping around on the lawn wearing aerating sandals (they surface when soil is moist). A grub is the larvae stage of many different types of beetles, so it helps to know what type of grub your dealing with. The most common is probably the grub of the Japanese beetle, which typically feeds on plant roots. Coincidentally, marigolds are said to repel adult Japanese beetles. There are two organic methods commonly used to control them in the larvae (grub) stage. The first is to apply Nematodes in the spring or early summer as a mulch or top dressing. The second is to apply Milky Spore disease (Bacillus popilliae) to grassy areas around the garden. This is often sold under the names Doom or Grub Attack in garden centers. These bacteria are both biological controls that work against grubs in different ways, but the end result is the same.
Q: What do I spray on my roses to keep them safe from diseases?
Hardiness Zone: 7b
Faith from Starkville, MS
A: Faith,
There are several things you can do to prevent rose diseases. First of all, start with disease resistant plants. Give them full sun, well drained, nutrient-rich soil and maintain proper air circulation around the plants with proper pruning. Second, use soaker hoses or water your roses from the bottom to avoid getting the plant wet when you're watering it. Third, if you notice insects or damaged leaves remove them quickly to keep problems from spreading. Roses are highly susceptible to mold and fungal diseases, so keep the beds around plants free from fallen leaves and debris where fungi is likely to reside. Roses also appreciate the tannic acid in tea bags and benefit from the potassium from banana peels. To prepare them for winter, stop fertilizing them mid-summer and stop deadheading three to five weeks before the first expected frost in your area. Keep watering as usually throughout the fall.
Our gardens and patios have truly become an outdoor extension of our indoor space. And just like furnishing our interior spaces, decorating our exterior spaces can be an expensive investment in furniture and accessories. Here are some tips on selecting and maintaining your garden furniture.
Q: I just got a Ylang Ylang tree. It was purchased by a friend who lives in South FL. We live near the beach in Central FL and I am wondering if it is salt-tolerant It is a zone 10 tree. I would have liked to plant it in Citrus County where we have land, but I am concerned it might not survive the cold winters there. It's about 5-10 Degrees colder there in winter. Does anyone know anything about this fragrant tree? I know the flowers are used to make perfumes and such.
Hardiness Zone: 10a
Thanks all,
A. Papaya from Central Florida
A: Papaya,
I'm not at all familiar with this tree, but is sure it a beauty. From what my research turned up, in its native habitat (Polynesia, Micronesia, Melanesia and the Indo-Malayan region) the average temperatures of the coldest months are in the range from 50-64ºF. I also found material estimating the minimum temperature tolerance for the ylang ylang tree is 41ºF. This is contrary to the 30-35ºF minimum temperatures of zone 10a, but there are microclimates and other factors to consider. You may have some wiggle room, but just how much, of course, is the big question. My best advice is to contact reputable nursery or an extension agency close to where you want to plant the tree. They should be able to tell you whether or not there are others growing successfully in the area.
I have a new weeping cherry and it looks bad. I have water dripping all the time. I discovered red/brown lady like bugs without the black dots that fly and are eating the leaves on new tree. Bug-b-gone didn't seem to make them fly away.
I live in New Jersey and have a problem with zucchini plants. The plants are huge and healthy and producing an enormous amount of flowers, but no zucchini. The flowers fall off and no fruit is produced. I don't see any female flowers forming. What can I do to help the plants produce fruit. I have never experienced this problem before with the zucchini plants. Please help.
When using vinegar as a weed killer, will it kill grass and /or plants such as lambs ear? If so, what do you recommend using to kill the weeds and not the plants or grass? Thanks so much!
I am growing Santa Fe green chili peppers, they are about 8 inches long, but not sure if ready to pick? How do I know when to pick? Once picked how do I remove skin, for cooking. I know its tough skin, most say grill or broil, is there any other way?
I have two Assorted Hybrid Tea Roses that I purchased at Lowes. They have no thorns. They have not produced any roses but the bushes are very large and always putting on new growth. Should I prune them or what ? They do not say they are climbing roses. They are supposed to be a variety of colors.
Does anyone know a good company or industry that might be a good source for free or cheap recycled plastic 55 gallon barrels that would make good rain barrels?
I have a young crepe myrtle tree. It bloomed beautifully this spring, and I've trimmed the old flowers, and I'm already seeing new flowers. Many leaves of the tree are turning orange and falling off. When I first noticed this, I pruned to as to get rid of the bare spots. New growth has been vigorous. But I'm noticing that it's losing leaves again. We're dry here, but there's a good layer of mulch, and I don't think it's getting too much or too little water. Also, I fertilized it once this spring. Any idea why the tree seems to think it's autumn?
Something is eating my lilacs as well as my flowering crabapple trees leaves. The holes are perfectly round, like a hole punch. This starts well after the flowers are gone. Can bees be the problem?
We are having a real problem with squirrels and chipmunks digging in our garden. What can I do other than traps? I don't have time to trap and release a few miles away. I don't want to kill them, just discourage them.
I'm a new gardener. I planted cucumbers in a large pot on my patio. They appear to be doing well, but the blossoms bloom and fall off. What can I do? I don't see any cucumbers developing.
I started a container mint herb garden and I would like to know if I can transfer it into my regular garden and if so, when? I also need to know when is the best time to harvest it and how. Can you freeze it or do you dry it?
I have a few fig trees and my friends wish to have branches to propagate. I have done this in the past on a hit and miss basis, but I would like to know what is the best way to start fig trees. When is the best time? We tried Winter and they did not grow. Is it best to start in water until rooted or to put in soil?
Garlic is a bulb from the Allium family known for its strong, pungent odor and flavor. The bulb is made up of sections of cloves and is commonly used for culinary purposes or its medicinal properties. Garlic is related to, and closely resembles the onion.
Tips to Success:
Save the biggest, most vigorous bulbs of the season to use for sets next year.
Eggplants are related to tomatoes and potatoes. They are technically not a vegetable, but a fruit-specifically a berry. Eggplants grow on bushes and are from 2 to 12 inches long and dark purple to white in color.
Tips to Success:
The key to growing eggplants successfully is warm soil and warm temperatures.
Onions are the bulbs of plants in the lily family known for their strong, distinctive taste and flavor. The bulbs generally have a papery outer skin surrounding a smooth, fleshy inner core.
Tips to Success:
Cure onions thoroughly at warm temperatures and store in a cool, well-ventilated place to reduce the chance of "neck rot" after harvesting.
Leeks are vegetables in the Allium family related to both garlic and onions. Their appearance is that of a large green onion, although they have a milder, subtler flavor. They are typically grown for use as a side vegetable.
Tips to Success:
Leeks can be difficult to clean if dirt becomes trapped between their leaves during harvesting. To avoid this, pull the soil away from the shaft before digging out the plant. Let a few plants reseed themselves each year for next year's crop.
Traditionally a southern favorite, Okra is a member of the hibiscus family that produces, small, slender, edible green pods, with a mild flavor and ridged texture. When cooked, the pods release a viscous substance that is sometimes used as a thickening agent. Prefers warm climates
A long white root vegetable with feathery leaves, similar to a carrot.
Tips to Success:
To grow the giant size parsnips you see in the supermarket, dig funnel-shaped holes 24 inches deep and 5 to 6 inches wide at the top. Fill up the holes with loamy, sandy soil mixed with peat moss, leaving a small depression for 2 to 3 seeds at the top. Cover seeds with _ to _ inch of soil.
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