Happy Garden - March 27, 2008

We have lots of great tips and advice from Ellen Brown and the ThriftyFun community. The temperatures got below freezing here in the Pacific Northwest, so I still haven't started my spring gardenig. Hopefully the early spring weather is more cooperative in your neck of the woods.

As always, feel free to share you gardening tip and photos on one of the contest pages!

Thanks for reading,

Susan

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Photos:

• Spring Bulbs
• Scenery: Tree At Dusk
• Spring Flowers

Tips and Articles:

• Learning the "Lingo" - Making Sense of Seed Packet Terms
• Planting A Memorial Garden
• Growing Tomatoes, Flowers And Veggies In Potting Soil Bags
• How Do I Care for an Orchid?
• Storing Used Coffee Grounds Until Spring
• Caring for Orchids in the Winter
• White Mold Growing on Plant Soil
• Broccoli, Cauliflower and Cabbage Not Forming Heads
• Entwining Woody Hibiscus Stems
• Orange Trees Not Producing Pollen
• Use Paper Towels To Sow Small Flower Seeds
• All About Composting
• Making Your Own Echinacea Or Herbal Tinctures
• Planting Bulbs In The Spring

New Requests:

• Problem With Norfolk Pine
• What can I do with my forced bulbs?
• Problems With A Sweet Gum Tree
• Gold Nugget Loquat With Yellow Leaves
• Growing Tomatoes In Black Plastic Bags
• Feeding Garden Worms

Crafting for Fun and Money!

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Spring Bulbs

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Scenery: Tree At Dusk

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Spring Flowers

GG Vi

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Learning the "Lingo" - Making Sense of Seed Packet Terms

Starting plants from seed is an economical and rewarding way to garden. However, if you don't understand the meanings behind garden-specific terms like "hardy" and "tender" or "resistant" and "tolerant", you could end up with some disappointing results down the road. There is set of standardized terms on seed packets, but here are some definitions to the terms you are most likely see.

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Planting A Memorial Garden

Losing a loved one is never easy. For those of us left behind, creating a living tribute in the form of a memorial garden offers us a place to grieve, reflect, and pay homage to our loved one's memory. Enlisting the help of friends and family in the creation and maintenance of the memorial garden will offer all involved a chance to heal. Whether you have lost a human or animal companion, here are some thoughts on creating a memorial garden to honor their memory.

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Growing Tomatoes, Flowers And Veggies In Potting Soil Bags

If you live in an apartment with only a small balcony, have super-rocky soil, or are just down-right lazy like me, you can grow tomatoes, flowers and other plants in the same bag the potting soil comes in! All you do is poke drainage holes on one side of the bag, then lay the bag flat with the drainage holes towards the ground. Next, cut a criss-cross shaped hole on the side that faces up with a sharp knife or razor blade. Now simply plant your flower or veggie starts into the cross shaped hole or holes, cover with soil and close the criss-cross hole and mulch over the top of the bag to keep the roots cool. Another bonus to gardening this way is you don't have to water very often as the plastic bag helps keep the water in.

Source: I saw this tip on TV.

By Cyinda from Seattle

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How Do I Care for an Orchid?

Question:

Auntie Sandi from Montreal, Quebec

Answer:

What a wonderful gift! It sounds beautiful, too! The first thing I would recommend is finding out what type of orchid you have. If your orchid did not come with a plant label, use the resources below or ask the person who presented it to you where they bought it. If it was purchased at a nursery, contact the nursery for help in identifying it. Identification is important because different types of orchids sometimes have very different growing requirements. In any case, here are some general rules to follow:

Temperature: This is where the needs of some orchids really differ. As a rule, try to keep daytime temperatures around 70F in the summer and 60F in the winter. Cool nights are important for most orchids, so a drop in nighttime temperatures of approximately 10F is ideal. Always avoid cold drafts and sudden swings in temperature.

Light: Lots of bright (not direct!) sunlight is important. Orchids need 10-15 hours of light each day so plan to support them with some artificial lighting in the winter if necessary.

Humidity: Set you orchid's pot on a pebble tray filled with water and locate it in an area with good ventilation. It is fine to set your orchid outside in the summer on warm days, just make sure you protect it from direct sunlight.

Watering: As with most houseplants, orchids need consistently moist (not wet) compost. Filtered water is best (not distilled). Reduce the frequency of watering in the winter when light quality is lower. It is okay to let the top 1-inch of soil dry out between watering, but never let the pot dry out completely.

Feeding: There are several fertilizers formulated for orchids. Read and follow label directions carefully. Drastically reduce or eliminate feeding entirely during the winter.

Repotting: Orchids prefer to be somewhat pot-bound, so repot only every 3-4 years or when you start to notice an overall decline in the plant.

Here are some good resources:

Eastern Canada Orchid Society
Montréal, Québec
http://www.ecosorchids.ca/

Orchid Societies the USA and Canada
http://www.orchid.org.uk/orchidsocietiesusa.htm

Good Luck!

Ellen

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Storing Used Coffee Grounds Until Spring

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 5a

Michelle from Milwaukee, WI

Answer:

I like Beth's idea of using a covered plastic container like a 5-gallon bucket in the garage (or next to the backdoor) to store coffee grounds over winter. Depending on how you use them, you could also portion some of them up using leftover plastic bags, or you might consider composting them along with your kitchen scraps. If you do decide to add other compostable items in with the grounds, keep in mind that coffee grounds are considered a source of nitrogen and fit into the "green" category when referring to the ideal ratio of composting half "green" and half "brown" materials.

Coffee grounds do make an excellent soil conditioner when fully composted and worms love them. They add texture to the soil's structure and a small amount of nitrogen to the soil. If you are saving them to feed to acid-loving plants, keep in mind that spent grounds actually have a more neutral pH than most people realize (most of the acid is stripped from the grounds in the brewing process and ends up in the coffee). Whereas an average cup of coffee may have an acidic pH of around 4.5, used coffee grounds come in only slightly acidic at about 6.2-6.7 (7 being neutral). For best results, dig the grounds at least 6 inches into the soil.

Good luck!

Ellen

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Caring for Orchids in the Winter

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 6b

Rebekah from Shelbyville, KY

Answer:

How long an orchid blooms depends on what type of orchid it is. Some species will bloom for a day, others a few weeks, still others a few months. Some species bloom just once a year and others bloom several times per year. There are even species that will bloom continuously once they reach maturity. The majority of orchids, however, will bloom somewhere between a few weeks and a few months.

Winter care for orchids can be relatively simple, but care does vary a bit depending on the species you're growing. Your best bet is to try to find out exactly what type of orchid you have. Some orchids require a longer period of winter rest before blooming again. Certain species also like cooler nighttime temperatures. The best I can do is give you some general care advice.

Because there is less daylight available in the winter months, growth slows down. Do your best to keep offering bright (not direct) light. Depending on the species, you may need to supplement existing light with a few hours of artificial light. Less light also translates into the need for less food and less water. Most orchid growers back off on fertilizing over the winter.

Keep temperatures between 55F and 70F and protect your orchid from sudden swings in temperature. Keep you orchid away from heat vents and set the pot on a pebble tray filled with water to help maintain some humidity. How often to water depends on the size of your pot and what type of growing medium you are using. The goal is to keep the compost damp, but not soggy. An easy way to determine moisture levels is to insert a pencil about an inch into the soil. If it looks or feels moist, there's no need to water. Here are some great orchid resources:

The American Orchid Society
http://www.aos.org/

The Kentucky Orchid Society
http://www.kyorchidsociety.org/

Good luck!
Ellen

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White Mold Growing on Plant Soil

Question:

Kim from Crawford, CO

Answer:

Is the mold only occurring in the pots with coffee grounds? If so, that is probably your answer. A thick layer of moist coffee grounds can form a moisture mat that acts like an air barrier and keeps soil from "breathing" properly. Moist grounds and lack of air combined with the added moisture from watering quickly creates the perfect environment for fungal growth (mold). Not only can these fungi attack (or even kill) your plants, the excess moisture leaves roots vulnerable to root rot. Coffee grounds or not, anytime mold forms on the soil of your potted houseplants, it is signaling too much moisture and not enough air.

To help prevent mold in the future, scatter the grounds loosely around your plants and try to mix them in with the topsoil. Also, avoid watering right away after applying the coffee grounds. Instead, wait until the surface of the soil becomes dry to the touch.

Using coffee grounds on houseplants isn't necessarily a bad idea, although the benefits are vastly overstated. Most of the acidity is removed from the grounds during the brewing process-with used grounds having a near neutral pH of around 6.2 to 6.7 (7 is neutral) depending on the pH of the water used. That said, composted coffee grounds do help condition the soil and add small amounts of nitrogen and trace amounts of potassium and phosphorus. As long as they are used sparingly and with care, they should do your plants no harm.

Ideally, the grounds would be fully composted before being added to the soil. As fresh-used grounds break down, they actually tie up small amounts of nitrogen in the soil. While tied up, that nitrogen is inaccessible to your plants. Once the grounds are fully composted, however, this nitrogen is added back into the soil and once again accessible to your plants. Watch for salt build-up over time and remember that fruit flies also tend to be attracted to moist grounds.

Good luck!

Ellen

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Broccoli, Cauliflower and Cabbage Not Forming Heads

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 10b

Allene from Phoenix, AZ

Answer:

There are a few reasons that heads fail to form on broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower. The usual culprit is stress brought on by extreme temperatures or drought. All three of these crops prefer cool temperatures and need an even supply of moisture to produce the largest heads and develop the best flavor. Extended periods of high temperatures can bring head formation to a screeching halt. The same is true of cold temperatures. If transplanting seedlings that are not acclimatized properly, cold weather can cause young plants to button up and produce small heads. Other possible causes include overcrowding, lack of soil nutrients, damage to roots, or transplanting seedlings too late-after roots have become pot bound in nursery flats.

Solutions include ensuring that you're meeting water and nutrient requirements, keeping diseases and insects under control, timing your plantings appropriately in the spring and fall, and acclimating seedlings to the cold before transplanting.

As long as your plants appear healthy, they will probably form heads eventually (that is, barring any unfortunate weather events). If they start to flower and bolt, it's best to pull them up and try again in the fall when temperatures start getting cooler. Remember to give your cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower an even supply of moisture throughout the season, especially as they start to form heads.

Good luck!

Ellen

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Entwining Woody Hibiscus Stems

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 4a

Bernette from WI

Answer:

Are you referring to training (braiding) the stems of two or more hibiscus plants together in hope of creating a banyan-like effect? These twisted tree forms (also called 'standard' forms) are often seen in home and garden centers-one tall braided woody stem with a dense cluster of leaves and flowers on the top. Sometimes this is done using a single plant and other times it's actually made up of two or more different plants with stems that are fused together. I have never done this myself, but I have read about it and can offer you some basic advice. You will have to sacrifice some time and patience to make this happen, but it will be worth it in the end. This technique works best with the stems of very young plants while the wood is still 'green'.

To create a traditional standard form, producers usually start with a young hibiscus plant and continually prune all of its lateral (side) branches and leaves as it grows. Over time, this promotes a dense growth of foliage at the top of one long bare trunk.

Braiding is just a modification of the traditional standard form. Multiple stems of the same or different plants are carefully braided together and secured in place while they grow (nylon stockings work well for this). Until these stems reach a desired height, the side stems must be continually pinched off. The terminal buds are allowed to remain in order to facilitate vertical growth. Eventually the stems will fuse together and form a twisted, banyan-like appearance. The stems of young hibiscus should be sturdy enough to stand on their own throughout training. If not, you will want to provide them with some dowels for support.

Use two different hibiscus plants planted side by side for a colorful bouquet. If you want to create multiple stems using the same plant, you will first have to get several offspring from a stock plant either through air layering (see link below), or by rooting some green woody cuttings in water.

A link on air layering:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/ornamentals/airlayer/airlayer.html

Good luck!

Ellen

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Orange Trees Not Producing Pollen

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 8a

James from Snellvile, GA

Answer:

I'm not sure I can give you a good answer based on the information you gave me. What variety is your orange tree? There are dozens of varieties of orange trees sold for growing in containers and some have very different way of reproducing. Some varieties require cross-pollination with other citrus trees to produce fruit (e.g. Tangor or Tangelos). Others are self-pollinating. Some, like the Washington navel, do not produce viable pollen at all. Instead, these trees are able to set fruit parthenocarpically, that is, flower and set seedless fruit without being pollinated.

Another question is how old is your tree? Many orange trees do no start to produce successfully until they reach 5 to 6 years of age. If your tree is producing a lot of flowers, take that as a good sign. Keep in mind though, that only a small percentage of flowers will ever set fruit. Citrus trees need a lot of sun to produce fruit, but suspect that's not your problem. A lack of sun and your tree would never flower in the first place.

Are you giving it adequate fertilizer? I would recommend a high-nitrogen, slow release fertilizer formulated specifically for citrus trees.

If all else fails, next the tree flowers again, give it a good shake. If it is a self-pollinating variety, this should help do the trick.

Good luck!

Ellen

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Use Paper Towels To Sow Small Flower Seeds

To sow all those fly away seeds, simply lay paper towels in your flower beds, wet, and then put seeds directly on the towel. Cover with soil and water as needed. Presto! You will have flowers popping up in no time and the paper will simply rot in the ground!

By Debra from Hampton, TN

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All About Composting

What is Compost?

With the assistance of microbes, bacteria, fungus, insects and worms - the organic matter is consumed, or broken-down, gently mixed, with the assistance of the worms and insects; and ultimately, transformed into an organically rich substance - readily assimilable by plants : the perfect fertiliser. In this natural setting, the actual transformation from raw material to compost, can take quite some time - as the process is reliant on the vagaries of the climate and the availability of material.

Compost in urban environs, uses the same principles, with the added bonus of things being managed; and therefore a quicker process.

The Urban Composter

A well balanced compost heap - does not smell! If you could pile up all the discarded kitchen and garden waste, coming out of an average suburban home in a year, you would not be able to see over it. Does it not make more sense to return all of this back into your garden, rather than adding to the urban over-abundance of garbage tragedy? Some local councils are now supplying garden-waste-bins, collected just the same way as ordinary garbage, but then dumped at enormous compost-farms; and ultimately sold off as bagged compost and potting-mix.

When you add in the environmental costs, of adding new landfill sites, road transport emissions from ferrying all this waste around; and potential incineration, with the fumes that release into the environment - advantages of composting are clear, whether done on an individual basis, or commercially.

So! All your garden-waste, this is: Lawn-clippings, any soft prunings (nothing too woody, nothing diseased); all leaves - from the roof-gutters, raked up leaves, swept up leaves; most weeds; and all spent annuals from last season.

Household waste: from the kitchen; all vegetable scraps; left-over meals (no meat, fish or dairy products, this will only stink and attract unwanted pests and vermin);egg-shells, egg-cartons; coffee-grounds and tea-bags; hair - from the brush, from the dog, from cutting hair; all floor sweepings; ash from the fire-place; whatever is in the vacuum bag; shopping dockets and paper-bags - pretty much, anything organic. Any large cardboard boxes, or large quantities of news-papers, worn out sheets and blankets - do not burn them, use them as mulch.

Where do I put all this "stuff"?

• How To Make A Garden Compost - Part 2

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Making Your Own Echinacea Or Herbal Tinctures

If you are spending a fortune buying echinacea pills or tincture these days to combat the flu and colds, here's a way to make your own herbal tincture at a fraction of the price: Take a small GLASS jar with a tight fitting lid (a small jelly canning jar will work nicely). Then take your dried echinacea (or other medical herb or herbs) and place in the glass jar, (if your grow your own fresh herbs, dry them first!) Then just barely cover the herbs in the glass jar with 100 proof Vodka.

Print the date you started the preparation and the kind of herb used on a label and tape it to the jar. Leave this to sit in a dark cool cupboard for 2 weeks to 1 month and shake the mixture every day. After it's sat for several weeks, strain the herbs out and pour the strained Herbal Tincture into a small glass jars with an attached eyedropper... (If you have extras, store these in a cool, dark place or the fridge. The dose used with echinacea (to combat flu and colds) is about 5 - 10 drops under the tongue several times a day. For other herbs, ask a professional herbalist. The tincture will keep it's strength for one year and up to 2 years. You can usually find the small glass eye-dropper bottles on E-Bay or online.

Herbal Information Center:

• http://www.kcweb.com/herb/coldflu.htm

• http://nccam.nih.gov/health/echinacea/

By Cyinda from Seattle

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Planting Bulbs In The Spring

Question:

Hardiness Zone: 8a

Teresa from Burgaw, NC

Answer:

I have three answers to the first part of your question: yes, no, and it depends.

Yes: If you are talking about pre-chilled bulbs that you have ordered from a bulb company the answer is yes. Many bulb companies sell pre-chilled bulbs for warmer zones that can be planted directly in the ground in the spring. Spring-flowering bulbs need to go through a chilling period before they will bloom. Most require at least 12 weeks of cold temperatures (just above freezing) to stimulate the biochemical processes necessary to grow and flower. So, if you are talking pre-chilled bulbs, go ahead and plant them in the spring.

No: If you have some left over Tulip bulbs from fall and they appear dried out and shrived your out of luck. Planting them would be an exercise in futility. Unlike seeds, bulbs are living. Although we can't always predict when it will be, they definitely have an expiration date.

It depends: If your bulbs remain plump and firm after winter storage, you have two options-plant them immediately, or store them in the refrigerator until fall. Either way you roll the dice and your results may be less than satisfactory. The way I see it, if you are likely to end up tossing them out anyway, why not give them a shot? They may surprise you and come up in late summer or early fall (although I doubt you'll see anything more than leaves). They may not come up at all. Or, there is always the off chance that they will reset themselves and magically pop up next spring. Gardening is all about miracles! The bulb's success will depend entirely on how much chilling time they can still get this spring as well as how good of shape they are in.

Because it's getting so late to plant them in your zone, if you have some extra space in your refrigerator, you may want to store them for the summer instead of planting them. Put them in a paper bag filled with slightly damp sphagnum moss and check them periodically to make sure they don't start to dry out. Make sure to keep them away from apples, onions, and grapes, too; they emit an ethylene gas that will damage the bulbs. Chill them at least 12 weeks and then either plant them, or try to force them indoors. Don't put them in the freezer-that will kill them for sure!

In response to your question about bulb rot: A wetter than usual spring can favor soil-borne bacteria and fungi infections that lead to bulb rot.

Good luck!

Ellen

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Problem With Norfolk Pine

I'm having a real problem with a Norfolk Pine. It seems to have signs of both too much water and not enough water. It was beautiful when I bought it in November but is starting to look bad. The lower branches are getting shriveled and the needles are hard and falling off. The upper branches look fine, but it also has yellowish/brown areas that fall off easily.

The drainage is good, I mist it several times a week, and give it about a pint of water per week. It seems to dry out in the week period. Also, there isn't any place in the house where it will get much direct light. Thanks for any help!

Gary from Oregon City, OR

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What can I do with my forced bulbs?

I am in zone 7b. I received some forced bulbs for my birthday, and they were lovely; however, I'd like to know what my options are at this point since the hyacinth and the daffodil are through blooming, and soon the cala lilly will also be through.

I believe that I'm supposed to wait until the leaves get brown and dry, then remove the bulb from the soil and store it in a cool dry place until fall and then plant them. Is that my only option? Might I be successful if I transplanted these "plants" right out into my garden at this point so that they get established before it winters here, or am I taking a risk that the disturbance will affect the bulb's receipt of the nutrition from its greenery?

I don't want to take a risk, but for me it's also a risk that I might forget in the fall that I have bulbs I'm supposed to plant - or I might forget where I've hidden them in the garage or something like that :). I'm just putting this out there so that I know what my options are and what others have tried as far as after-care of their forced bulbs. Thanks so much!

Hardiness Zone: 7b

Tina from Ashland, OR

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Problems With A Sweet Gum Tree

We have a very large sweet gum tree. A large area of bark has come off the tree and a lot of the roots are exposed. Is this tree dying from the loss of bark? How can I cover up the roots? The roots have ruined my front yard.

Margie

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Gold Nugget Loquat With Yellow Leaves

I have planted a new Gold Nugget Loquat tree (came in a 15 Gallon pot, about 5.5 ft tall), and after a month, leaves have randomly started turning yellow. I am not sure if this is due to excessive water or something else. Any comments will be appreciated. (See attached picture.)

Hardiness Zone: 10a

Bani from Southern California

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Growing Tomatoes In Black Plastic Bags

Another poster on here mentioned using black plastic bags as containers for growing tomatoes. I was wondering if anyone could elaborate on that method?

Hardiness Zone: 6a

Tami from MO

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Feeding Garden Worms

What can I feed my garden worms with? I need to fatten them up for fishing! Thanks

Eileen from Northern CA

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