Could you possibly check them with a multi tester? Not sure just an idea. My husband checks for low voltage. (11/20/2007)
Hi, We had the same problem last Christmas. We tried and tried, but could not find the problem. We finally took a short string of lights and put them in the tree in the section where the lights were not working. It looked fine. We were just frustrated to pay all that money and it only worked for 1 year. Loretta (11/21/2007)
I've heard of so many people having this problem that I decided to just buy a plain artificial tree and mess with the string lights still. Yet, every year as I put them up, I wish I had a pre-lit tree, then when I hear of frustrated complaints, I think I made the right choice. Then when I take the lights off, I wish I had a prelit tree, and on it goes... (11/24/2007)
We are having a similar problem. Our tree has worked well for about 5 or 6 years now. But this year some rows are not working. And some only half the row works. I have replaced fuses without any positive results. I would love to know if any has had any luck. My next step is to go to Lowe's or Home Depot for possible solutions. (11/24/2007)
After doing some research on the net, I decided to invest $15 in something called a "Light Keeper Pro." Bought mine at Walgreens because it was close to my house. I'm sure they are called by other names, but are in the dept. with the holiday lights most everywhere. BEST INVESTMENT EVER! Looks like a pistol, but the concept is, you remove a bulb from the "dead" area of the light strand. Slip the socket of the light into the opening on the pistol and click the trigger 5 or 6 times.
Could one of the plugs come unplugged (inside the tree) that attaches to the main cord? (11/26/2007)
A section of my lights went out this year. The tree is 3 years old. I filled in the space with regular Christmas tree lights in the same colors. It looks good, can't tell the difference. When Christmas is over, I'll check the bulbs, just didn't have time to worry with it before Christmas. (11/29/2007)
I solved the problem on my tree. The "safety bulbs" appear to be a "safety" for the manufacturer so the strings will all go out eventually and force you to buy another tree. They are simply bulbs without a shunt. I was able to pull the non replaceable white bulb bases out of the sockets with pliers and dental picks and I replaced the bulbs with ones that had shunts using the same white bases, and everything works fine.
Thanks for the tip, Dish. I found that if you find the "safety bulb" (the only one with a white base) and pull the bulb, then remove the white base carefully with needle nose, you can salvage the base. Put a new bulb in the base and all lights work again. Looks like each string on the tree has this safety bulb. Anyone with any electrical experience know if there is really any safety feature from this bulb? (12/15/2007)
By Formerly Angry Daddy
Could Dish or Guest Post get back to this topic. Dish-I'm a first year buyer and already I have half a string not working in two weeks. Does each string have a white safety? Do you mean replace the bulb with the green one or put a bulb in the white base? Guest Post-I haven't seen the tool you refer to, but are you saying that by "zapping" the socket with the tool and then inserting a new bulb, the partial string will go on. I am frustrated to think that my first artificial tree has "bellied up" in less than three weeks! (12/21/2007)
Maggie, you need to put a new bulb in the white base. I'm pretty sure each of my strings have at least one non-replaceable bulb. Make sure you unplug the string when you work on prying out the base and be careful not to damage it. Just to let you know, I've had 3 sections go out since I first posted on 12/9, and this safety bulb replacement repair worked every time. I bought one of those zappers to repair my outdoor icicle lites and it was very helpful. It hasn't helped with my prelit tree. Merry Christmas. Dish (12/23/2007)
Pulling out the white base "non-replaceable" bulbs in the beginning of each dead row of bulbs (using a small precision screwdriver) worked great in my case. The rows are lit again. I tried to replace the white base bulbs with the normal green ones but I did not get them to light up. Nevertheless, all but these couple of bulbs are now working fine. (01/05/2008)
I haven't tried my tree this year, but the Light Keeper Pro (see guest post from last Dec.) I bought last year worked great. I have a twig tree on my porch year round and go through several strands of lights a year. I used to LKP to rejuvenate burned out sections of lights several times over the summer. You don't have to replace the bulb with a new one after you "zap" it.
I was going to try the suggestions for replacing the safety bulbs, but could not locate one on my tree or any other strand of lights I've purchased.
Good Luck! (11/15/2008)
The Light Keeper Pro was an excellent suggestion. I asked my husband to pick one up on his way home from work a few hours ago and now have over half of our pre-lit tree lit again. Thanks! (11/28/2008)
Took advice and bought the Light Keeper PRO and it really worked. Had to reverse the plug into outlet as instructions said but lights came on after that when I attached gun and pulled trigger a few times. Was so surprised it really worked. Am thrilled. Thanks lots! (11/30/2008)
A BIG THANK YOU to all who posted about the Light Keeper Pro! I had my wife pick one up from Walgreens because I was at my wits end with multiple sections out on my pre-lit tree the I have owned for 6 years now. I followed the directions and PRESTO... ths sections came on! The Light Keeper Pro will be stored in the tree box from now on! (11/30/2008)
I had the same problem on my GE prelit tree. One of the non-replaceable bulbs burned out. I just wiggled the bulb itself back and forth until it came out. I then took another bulb from it's plastic base and just slid it into place. Everything is working again!
CAREFUL OUT THERE - IF you are a "doofus" like ME, and don't wear your glasses when you SHOULD, you will BREAK that FUSE BULB, the one with the white ring at the bottom of it... and render it worthless. The lights on that circuit (about 2 rows on my tree) will never light again. Calling the mfg, only gets you sympathy, since my tree is about 5 years old and no replacement parts are available. It is NOT designed to be removed. Had I had my glasses on when I started all this I would have seen that there is no separation between the bulb and the base, all one piece.
Anyway, I am going to go buy a very short string of regular lights and just wrap them around those two rows, its the top section so it very narrow anyway. I may try Dish's suggestion about removing that bulb from the circuit and sealing it with electrical tape... with my GLASSES on!
Happy Holiday's folks, glad I found this site. There are tons of other projects I need to undertake, some I messed up even with my glasses ON.
PS - my original problem of two whole sections of lights not working was fixed when I replaced the FUSES in those sections.. should have done that FIRST... that adage of 'older but wiser' ain't working on me. (12/13/2008)
Thanks to this forum I saw that my partially lit string was due to a burned out non-replaceable bulb with the white base. I followed the posts on the subject - wiggled the bulb for about 8 minutes till it came out - pried/pulled/ripped the white base out - and replaced it with a regular green base and bulb. Hooray - all lights work. (12/14/2008)
It's been another year, and now about half the "safety" (LOL) bulbs have been carefully replaced with regular bulbs, while reusing the white bulb bases.
However, I wanted to share with you that I had a section that would not light even after the white-based bulb was replaced. This was fixed by zapping the section a couple of times with the "Light Keeper Pro". Great product! I have icicle lights outside that had a dozen unlit sections magically restored using this gadget. If you own mini-lights and don't have one of these zappers, buy one.
Merry Christmas to all you thrifty-minded people like me. (12/15/2008)
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