Pepper Steak ("Steak au Poivre")

This preparation is a classic bistro dish and has manyvariations. In the past, the sauce tended to be heavy,containing large amounts of butter and cream. We preferlighter -sauced preparations which complement the fish ormeat being served. Traditionally, after cooking the steak,the pan is deglazed with cognac; I still do this on the rareoccasions we have brandy but usually use red wine instead.If you've read other sauté recipes we've written, you willnotice I place chopped shallots into the pan for a coupleminutes before deglazing because they add depth to sauces.This recipe is quick and simple and relies on the use ofhighest quality ingredients.

There is a movement in New England toward raising grass fedbeef, and it is worth seeking out sources. Naturally raisedbeef is also finding its way into meat markets. Use a tendercut such as strip sirloin which will remain tender and keepits juices during high heat cooking. Splurge on a good redwine such as a Pinot Noir from Oregon, serve the steak withsautéed mushrooms and a mixed salad and treat your guests toan easily prepared classic dish.

For four servings:

• Four 8 - 10 ounce strip sirloin steaks (preferably more than 1inch thick and trimmed of excess fat) or similar tendercuts. Do not use filet mignon which lacks necessarymarbling
• 3 tablespoons, more or less, coarsely cracked black pepperKosher or sea salt
• 2 tablespoons chopped shallot (substitute onion ifnecessary)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
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• 1 cup red wine or &frac; cup cognac
• &frac; cup beef broth or water
• 1 &frac; tablespoons butter (optional)

Have steaks at room temperature. Crack pepper with mortar and pestle or use a heavy pan to crack the pepper on the counter. Crack enough to lightly and evenly coat both sides of the steak. Salt steaks and press the steaks into the pepper so that it will adhere during cooking. Heat a heavy sauté pan large enough to hold the steaks without their touching over high heat. Add oil to pan and sauté steaks for 3 -4 minutes per side, depending on thickness, for medium rare. The meat will continue to cook from retained heat, so remove them before they reach your desired temperature.

An instant reading thermometer is very helpful, but do not worry about making a small slit into the thickest part of the meat to check. Place the steaks on a platter and tent with foil to keep warm while you finish the sauce. Having the meat rest for 5 - 10 minutes will keep the juices from running our when it's sliced.

Pour the fat from the pan and add the shallots, stirring so that they soften but do not brown. Add wine or cognac and the water or broth and reduce over high heat until the alcohol has evaporated and the sauce is slightly thickened. Return any juices from the steak to the pan and add butter if using. The butter enriches the flavor and balances any acidity from the wine. Plate the steaks, dividing the sauce among them and expect request is the future for this great bistro meal.