|
Stripes and plaids! Theyre always fashionable and can be made
into the most professional appearing garments that can emerge
from the sewing room.
Even the prettiest plaid or stripe material can be ruined by
careless cutting and sewing. It is imperative, therefore, that
you have an understanding of two essential words in the plaid/
stripe jargon: EVEN and UNEVEN.
Fabric can be tested at the time of purchase in order to determine
whether the design is even or uneven, which will be important
information for selecting the fabric or the pattern that will be
used.
Stripes can run lengthwise, crosswise or diagonally. To test
lengthwise stripes make a lengthwise fold, right sides of fabric
together; turn back one corner to form a right angle fold EVEN
stripes will match along the angle in width, color and sequence;
UNEVEN stripes will not match in all three respects.
In nearly the same way, test cross-wise stripes by folding the
fabric CROSSWISE and turn back a right angle corner check
for a match.
Test diagonally striped fabric by placing fabric with (unfolded)
surface right side up; for diagonals running from upper left to
lower right, turn back a lower left hand corner; for diagonals
running the opposite direction, turn back the lower right hand
corner check for match in all respects.
Plaids require more careful scrutiny. Fold a plaid in the same
way as a lengthwise stripe, but examine the outside edges of the
folded corner, as well as the angle. Everything must match, in
all directions.
When purchasing plaid fabric, always buy half a yard extra to
allow for matching. Then plan how the plaid or stripe should run.
Do you want the main lines to run bias, across or up and down.
If the fabric pattern is bold and large, more care is required
than for a smaller stripe or plaid.
All of the rules for cutting stripes and plaids can be summed up
in one dire warning. Dont cut until you are sure everything is
going to turn out all right!
EVEN stripes are easiest to work with and can meet to form
chevron Vs without difficulty. UNEVEN lengthwise stripes
will chevron only if the fabric is reversible. UNEVEN cross-
wise stripes will chevron on shaped, curved or bias seams.
Stripes and plaids cannot match in every area, so give priority
to side, front armhole and waist seams, or to points where an
upper and lower garment meet.
Make all pattern alterations before laying them on the fabric.
Cut out even stripes and plaids on pinned double layers, if
desired, but cut uneven ones singly and use them with the with
nap layout.
The extra precaution taken at the beginning of the project will
be well worth the effort as you show off the completed garment.
About The Author: Sarah J. Doyle is author of over 25 sewing, craft and how-to books, as well as author of online pattern making, sewing and craft classes. Visit http://SewWithSarah.com for information on books, classes, newsletters and the latest hints and tips and http://SarahJDoyle.com for additional free articles.
(c) Copyright 2004, Sarah J. Doyle. All Rights Reserved.
| 
