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What is the least intensive way to paint over varnish?
By Randi from Williamsburg, KY
My sister bought a really nice house but for some reason the kitchen cupboards are made of plywood. In an attempt to make them look good, they've been varnished too many times-and each coat is THICK. She wants me to help paint them-I think they should be stripped first, she doesn't. Does anyone have any experience with painting over varnish? What kind of paint did you use? If you stripped it, did you put on a sealer and then paint?
Also, there is one cabinet that is laminated-how does one paint over that? Please help!!
Elisabeth from Milwaukee
TSP bought at Lowe's or Home Depot should be used first. Just mix specified amount in water and scrub surface. Do this a few more times to make sure it's gone over well. Make sure you rinse it off well and follow the directions using rubber gloves. When dry, apply Kilz primer which comes in a few choices. You will need to apply extra coats before you can paint. This will cover up the wood nicely. We used this process on old panel walls before painting over it and had no bleed through.
You do not have to strip the cabinets BUT, you do need to sand them well and as Lorelei said, use TSP to clean them. You could also use a liquid sander. Then I would use the best primer there is which is made by Zinser. (not sure if I spelled that right) but any home store has it and will know what you mean. Then paint it after all that is dried.
I painted over a varnished piece of furniture very successfully by leaving it out in the hot sun. I have the advantage (?) of living in a country with very hot summers so that the sun would bleach out the varnish. After a few days, I painted over it with no problems at all. Hope this helps.
I painted over every door in my condo, all were varnished, that's 9 doors on both sides, and 6 that are part of double sliding or bi-fold doors of which I only did the visible side, plus the interior surface of the two doors going outside.
I used a power sander just to scratch the surface, but not to remove all the varnish, then 1 coat of Zinsser's Bullseye 123 Primer, and then 3 coats of semi-gloss paint. I don't know how long ago that was, at least 10 or 12 years ago--and they still look great. There are just a few tiny nicks which I can touch up with leftover paint.
It's the best thing I did to this place, the doors were very dark and made the condo look very dreary. Now they're a creamy white and brighten every room. I left the trim the way it was a medium stain.
What is TSP? I live in Europe and might be able to get it if I know the full chemical name.
I have brown, I think varnished (it has a shiny coat on it, I assume it's varnish), trim in my bathroom. I want to paint it white and was hoping I wouldn't have to do any sanding before hand. Can I add Kilz or some type of primer to the area before I paint and avoid sanding?
Why not ask the pros at your local paint store. They deal with these questions all the time.
Thanks for the most obvious fox. But I would rather take advice from others who have done it first hand than go to my paint store and end up with products that will end up being as much as trim after it's all said and done, and FYI: I don't post on here very much but when I do, this is what you will see. I'm asking for friendly hands on advice. What do you use it for?
I guess I would rather ask pros than get advice from people that probably were using a trial and error method, and got a finish that they liked, but you might not like. From what I have seen on some of the home decorating shows on TV you either have to sand or use a primer.
Just because you ask for advice at a paint store doesn't mean you have to buy the recommended products. Just say you have to consult your significant other and thank them for the advice. Then you can go purchase similar items at a discount store.
All in all you will have to buy some products, if you sand, you will need to buy the paint, if you use a primer, you have to buy the primer and paint. With sanding you have to buy the sanding equipment(paper and some kind of block to put it on, to make the sanding easier). Sanding is harder and more time consuming than using primer.
If you don't want to ask anyone, just go look at a can of Kilz and see what it says about sanding and priming. From what I remember you don't have to do either, but I haven't used it in a few years.
Well, if you want another answer. Paint will not adhere to the shiny substrate. You need to scuff the surface for the paint to bond. You don't need to use sandpaper but you can buy a product from 3M called Scotchbrite. It is a nylon pad impregnated with either a silicone carbide or aluminum oxide mineral. Grey is the silicon and red is the aluminum product.
The difference is the silicone cuts finer. You can fine this product at auto part stores, big box stores and paint stores. I don't use Klix as I have found it difficult to cover with a top coat. I have used it a few times but found after several top coats the white still is visible through the top coat.
A product called "gripper" (similar to kilz) actually allows paint to adhere to slick surfaces, even glass.
Yes, the obvious is sand to give a "tooth" to the wood. There are liquid sanders also.
Ask if the clerk is an experienced painter at your local big box store for advice.
Any finish should be prepared before painting. Find some "liquid sandpaper" at your paint store, and follow the instructions exactly. 'Paso' is the best I've ever used, but it can be hard to find. Only one store in our city carries it. I haven't looked online.
I've seen some older posts already about painting directly over varnished furniture, but it's not exactly the same problem that I have. I was just wondering, I have a small, mahogany corner shelf unit that someone forgot to move when we were oil-painting the door next to it.
It's full of white spatters, but I don't want to toss it if I can paint over it to hide the spatters. It's very hot here where I live, would it be a good idea to stick it outside in the hot sun so as to fade away the varnish before I paint it. Sanding it down is too difficult as it is full of carvings and swirls. Anybody have any suggestions?
By Cettina from Malta, Europe
Cettina, are the spatters large? Are the spatters in the scroll design? You could always use a stripper to get the paint off but if it is in the scrolls that would be difficult. I think your only option would be to sand, at least get the worst of it done that way. Or, another possibility, you might take a putty knife and see if you can get some of the paint off that way.
Hi laniegirl. The spatters are large, with lots of drips over the scrollings. I could sand down the flat parts but there is no way I can get to the carved bits without scraping which would probably ruin the delicate engravings. Its a shame that the little unit was overlooked until it was too late. its not particularly valuable, its just pretty and i would like to save it if I can.
I would sand what you can with a small sander and then use an attachment to try to get what you can of the decorative parts. You could hand sand the rest, but it will get old fast.
Go to the hardware store and get liquid sandpaper, comes in a variety of names. It is a cleaner, slight stripper. I use this in my 100 year old house to clean woodwork without having to refinish anything. Cleans it up nice and shiny.
This is not tsp.
Never heard of such a thing as liquid sandpaper but the concept seems exactly what I need. Thanks for the suggestion. I will go and see if such a thing is available in my country.
I've already made the mistake of painting two coats of enamel over varnished cabinets. The yellow streaks still bleed through. What product can I use to correct this mistake without starting over?
By Jeff B.
Can I use Valspar high hiding primer on slightly sanded, varnished stair spindles before I paint?
Can I use water based varnish on previously petroleum based varnished floors? The drying time is the main factor in this regard.
I have hardwood window frames (mahogany). I want to paint them gloss white to smarten them up. What is the best way of going about this?
By Alan from Liverpool
What is the best way to paint over varnished doors and doorways that are very dark?
By Shir from Sydney, Australia
The very best way is to remove the doors and sand the varnish off. Then use a good primer, and paint the colour you want. The sanding removes the varnish that if left on could cause your paint job to peel and look nasty; the primer creates a paintable barrier-the paint goes on and stays on, but you don't have the paint soaking into the wood and causing you to need more than three coats to get good coverage.
Another, quicker way to paint a varnished surface, is to 'rough' the surface of the varnish with either a commercial product like TSP (labelled as a cleaner), or a homemade rougher like vinegar and water. Apply wearing protective gloves, and use a nylon scrubber pad.
Roughing the surface should break the chemical bond the varnish has with the wood, and makes it easier to paint over without having to worry about the new paint peeling. It doesn't always work, though, so the best thing to do really is to sand the varnish off and start with bare wood.
I've heard that it's possible to paint over varnish without sanding by using Zinsser BIN primer. Has anyone tried this?
By Janis T.
Yes I have done this. But I still think it is better to go over it with some rough sandpaper first. You don't have to sand that much and it makes the primer adhere better in my opinion. If you absolutely don't want to sand, they make a liquid sand that works very well. It is sold anywhere where they sell paint.
I am painting some chairs which are either varnished or stained. The coating is really light and goes back to the wood in most places easily, but some areas are harder to sand back. Do I have to take the entire varnish off or can it just be heavily sanded so it is rough?
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Our home was built in the early 70s. The wood was finished with high gloss varnish and now we want to paint over it. What is the least labor intensive way to prepare the high gloss surface? Thanks.
By Bert from Frederick, MD
There is a petroleum based product (lots of fumes, you have to work with every window open) called Liquid Sandpaper which is supposed to "cut" the gloss so one can paint over shiny finishes, but I've tried it and didn't find it very good. I only mention it because someone is bound to suggest it. If you do try it, get the small container first and try it on one small area. If you are talking about cabinets you can have the fronts stripped relatively inexpensively at a stripping facility.
It would help to know if the varnish was traditional or polyurethane. I don't know how you remove polyurethane. There must be products out there.
The problem is people used to use oil based paints and I think you can paint over oil based paints with an oil based enamel, but most enamels are latex now, which are much cheaper, but can peel off oil paint surfaces. I am referring to old varnishes as well.
I would consult a paint store. Not the small department in a large store that sells groceries. A paint only store will have your answers and tell you what your range of choices are. (03/22/2010)
Take the time to do the job right the first time. We tried to do it a quick way and are now having to strip everything off to do it right. It's going to take more time, energy, and money than initially doing the project correctly. (03/23/2010)
One time I simply painted over the varnish with a quality semi gloss paint and it looked really cool because it had a crackly appearance after it dried, so maybe you could do a test section and see if you like the look before going all out with varnish removal. (03/23/2010)
Wash it down with TSP (Home Depot) and sand all over so paint will adhere. BTW, there is no "easy" way to repaint cabinets and have the job look good or have the paint stay on. Take your time, do it right and you'll be happy with the results. Take shortcuts and you'll be sorry. Varnish (several coats) after painting. (03/23/2010)
I want to paint my old varnished wood cabinets with white enamel. I don't want to strip and sand. Can it be done?
By Miss Ida Mae from Bridgeport, CT
You can buy TSP at Home Depot or Lowe's to wash wood table top or cabinet surfaces and then rinse off; allow to dry and it's best if you use a primer on the wood before painting. We had to prime wood paneling after using TSP because the wood surface kept bleeding through. It worked and only needed to coat a couple of times with paint. (06/06/2010)
My husband is a retired cabinet maker, and I just did exactly what you're attempting. He had me get a product called TSP. My box is called TSP-PF (phosphate free - no real difference in the outcome). Worked great, inexpensive, easily found at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. (Even Wal-mart has it - look in paint dept.)
You wash down the cabinets with it (mixed in water), rinse, and prime. Then you're good to go! Hubby says the paint will last quite a long time. He has much experience with this product.
By the way, get a small box. It won't take much! (06/08/2010)
I once painted some varnished paneling in a guest bedroom without doing any prepping and it turned out looking really cool with a "crackle" effect so if that sounds interesting to you maybe give it a try, but just do one small portion first to make sure you like it ;-) (06/08/2010)
I want to repaint my kitchen table that has varnish on it. I do not want the hassle of sanding and stripping. Does anyone know how I can do that or what kind of paint I could use? I am hoping something is out there nowadays. Thanks.
Taking the steps out of stripping the finish and sanding are going to result in poor quality. They may not show up immediately, but they will. Paint is a finicky product to use which means the furniture you are working with needs to be treated correctly before painting.
A kitchen table that is used a lot should be properly stripped, sanded, and primed before painting. I've seen it in many home decor blogs where people have tried to cheat the steps only to be very unsatisfied with the end result. Peeling paint, bubbles, etc. So all that hard work to make it look nice results in more work or a ruined piece of furniture. (01/31/2010)
Sherwin Williams has something, I don't know what is called. You can use it to do just what you are trying to do. My girlfriend used it over tile in the kitchen, and it looks great. Good luck. (02/28/2010)
How do I paint over a varnished and marked table?
By Mellie from UK
There's a product called TSP that is found at Lowe's or Home Depot. Add to water, wear gloves, and scrub and rinse; let dry. This helps to dull the finish and you can then use a primer before painting over. May need to repeat TSP usage before priming. (02/12/2010)
There is a product called "Liquid Sand" found in the paint department that dulls the shine on varnished walls or furniture so paint will adhere to the surface. It should work for the table and/or cupboard doors. Sanding them down and wiping well to remove dust would be another alternative method. Good luck. (02/16/2010)
Can I paint over varnished wood?
I am wanting to paint over a banister around the stairs with a cream gloss. It is varnished brown at the moment. Is that possible without sanding?