I have very healthy looking tomato plants with plenty of flowers, but have yet too see any fruit. It is the middle of July and do not understand why my tomatoes are not producing any fruit yet. The plants are all very healthy looking. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks
If you are having a hot summer, just be patient. Most varieties of tomatoes won't set fruit if the nights do not cool off enough. Keep the plants healthy, and once things cool off a bit, you will get fruit.
Hardiness Zone: 7a
Josie from Tulsa, Oklahoma
Most tomatoes take anywhere from 30-60 days to mature from seed, and several environmental factors can affect their ability to set fruit. Heat is one those factors. Once daytime temperatures reach into the 90's and nighttime temperatures hover near the mid 70's, tomato plants have trouble setting fruit because high temperatures render the pollen sterile.
There are a couple of strategies to combat this problem. The first is to grow varieties that mature earlier, before the Oklahoma summer heat sets in. Smaller tomato varieties (e.g. cherry) usually need less time to mature, while larger tomato varieties take longer. The smaller varieties are also more likely to set fruit better in hot weather. You could also buy established seedlings or start yours indoors several weeks before transplanting in order to give them a jump on the season.
If your plants still haven't set fruit by the time the intense heat sets in, try to keep your plants healthy and consistently watered and once the temperatures drop, they should resume setting fruit. Other factors that prevent tomatoes from setting fruit include low temperatures (below 50ºF), a lack of sunlight (less than 8-10 hours), inconsistent watering, damage from pests (e.g. thrips), or too much nitrogen fertilizer.
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By Katie A.
The plant actually grew out some new green growth after I added egg shells to the soil around it. I have had no other pests, because I also remembered to plant Basil about 6 in. from the plant. Companion planting works really well for us, but it still produced poorly because of the stress of the heat. I can water deeply in the early morning, the plant really perks up, but by 3 pm and hot sun, the leaves are wilting. I might consider transplanting it into the shade this week to try to salvage and extend it's growing season by planting it deeper still. Hope I don't kill it, then again it wouldn't be a great loss under the circumstances. One of the best gardens I ever saw was under a huge old tree, protecting it from the hottest hours, but the soil had to have been enriched and required extra water and fertilizer. (08/03/2006)
I have a healthy tomato plant. It put on 4 tomatoes right at first and now it has loads of blooms, but the blooms are just drying up and there are no more tomatoes. Please help.
Hardiness Zone: 6a
By penny2009 from Camdenton, MO
My tomato plants are blooming, but no tomatoes are forming.
Hardiness Zone: 7b
By bluehen from TN
Nancy Mc (07/26/2009)
One is that when the plants bloom, but the tomatoes don't set on, you can take a broom handle down close to the main stem and do what my grandmother always said: "Beat it with the broom". You don't beat it so hard that you'll break the main stem or even any leaves. You just basically give it a few good thumps. I don't know what it is or what it does to the plant, but it works.
The 2nd is to keep them watered, but don't water them so late in the day that the leaves don't have time to dry before the sun goes down, otherwise you eventually get a mold and rot. And lastly, I know that when the weather gets super hot (we were in the 110's a few weeks ago), no matter what I do to them, the plants will not set on fruit. Don't worry though, because once it cools down a bit, I'm going to have more tomatoes than I can even give away.
A little secret for having bumper crops of tomatoes: Plant tomatoes in hilled rows that have been covered with straw and allow to grow on the ground. Plant carrots between the tomato rows and you will have sweeter carrots and tomatoes to sell when the neighbors get tired of them and you've put away so many that you're sick of them. (08/02/2009)
By Juanita S.
Once every 2 or 3 months give them a shot of Epsom salts, 3 TBSP in 1 gallon of warm water, you can add it to Miracle Grow or use plain; it is also great if your leaves are yellowing and you can add the Epsom salt treatment to everything that grows, from grass to trees.
Don't use too much cow manure, a little is good, but too much will make the leaves grow at the expense of flowers and fruit. Goat or rabbit manure is better.
When you plant the tomatoes in the ground remove all the bottom leaves, I only leave maybe 2 sets of leaves on the top and plant the stem up to the leaves. I also dig down below where the roots will rest when planting and add manure and mix well, the plants will hit the manure eventually and give them a boost. Making "manure tea" is also a great way to fertilize them.
For larger tomatoes, remove the suckers as you see them, they are the new sets of leaves that appear in the crotch area between the stem the leaf joints, if the sucker gets very big use scissors to cut them off and you can root them in a glass of water and start your own new tomato plants.
To help fight dirt borne bacteria always stake the plants and don't let them lay on the ground. Last but not least, water the plants very deeply, a little sprinkle will encourage the roots to grow up to get the water and some tomato varieties can send roots over 20 feet down. (08/26/2009)
My tomatoes are blooming, but not setting fruit. Please help.
Hardiness Zone: 10a
My tomato plants are very healthy, but have not produced fruit.
Hardiness Zone: 9a
By Pam from Jacksonville, FL
I have 2 tomato plants growing in my garden, next to each other. One is a Better Boy red tomato plant, and the other is a yellow tomato plant.